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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Capelet
Capelet of black silk satin. The short cape is trimmed along hem with 3-1/2" band of pleated organza and band of jet beads. Standing neckline trimmed in pleated organza. Center front opening with closure of five hook & eyes, with bow of black silk satin moire with trailing ends attached to right side of opening at throat. Shoulder yoke bordered in tightly gathered narrow band of black organza. Bright purple moire silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501286/
Capelet
Two-tiered capelet of midnight blue/black velvet and off-white lace. Capelet extends to about small of back, and has high, standing collar trimmed in dense ruff of tightly gathered of black chiffon. Around throat, along both sides of center front opening, around hem, and on edges and hem of the wide tier (7" at center front, 8" over shoulders) is wide band of off-white floral and scroll lace, placed as an applique along edges. Lined in brown fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Mme. Josse / 3 / Boulevard des Italiens / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499004/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of navy blue calico with rose colored paisley print. Long sleeves with caps at shoulders. Empire waistline; full length. Standing collar trimmed with ivory lace. Center front opening with 6 circular brass, concave buttons with red painted centers decorated with silver circles and a star. Back panel in Watteau style and forms a small train. Upper part of dress lined in blue cotton with small white flowers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501313/
Deer Hoof Shoes
Pair of "Deer Hoof" shoes for bound feet. Tiny heeled shoes of dark navy silk, the uppers with multicolored floral embroidery at top and sides, and cloud-form patterns of couched gold thread around heels. Edged at top with blue silk ribbon. The shaped heels are of white leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461833/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38040/
Fan
Folding fan with tortoise-shell frame. Sticks and loop of tortoise shell; possibly for brise style fan; missing leaf or ribbon. Measurements: 39 cm extended; guard 21 cm long x 3 cm wide digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38047/
Girl's Dress
Girl's dress of calico in print of blue, green and gold flowers on red background. Square neckline trimmed in lace with three rows of narrow, black velvet ribbon. Elbow-length sleeves trimmed in matching lace and velvet ribbon. Full length, with dropped waist. Center front opening with five mother-of-pearl buttons and barred buttonholes; snap at bottom of opening. Bodice lined in muslin; sleeves and skirt unlined. Tag at center back neckline: "105" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503763/
Hat
Day/house hat of creme silk. Wide, wired brimmed hat with gold stitching throughout. Wide, low crown with ruffled brim. Pink flowers under and above brim. Large bow of self at back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277174/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of light pink silk taffeta and feathers. The domed crown is totally covered by sprays of off-white ostrich feathers and pale pink veiling. At one side is a metal buckle with rhinestones. The wide brim is wired at outer edge and covered with the same silk. The whole is swathed in veiling which also hangs down to secure below face of wearer. Crown of hat is lined in off-white silk, the brim is lined with the same pink silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276989/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of black leather. Designed with pointed toes, the black leather uppers of the shoes are cut back at sides of vamp to create a "tongue" which is of pointed outline. Applied to vamp is an openwork stamped ornamental metal buckle simulating cut steel, with black patina. Modified Louis heel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114805/
Shoes
Pair of shoes. Black leather and tan suede uppers, leather at toe box and extending back, suede along heel and quarter. Cut-outs at vamp where suede and leather join. 2 1/4" high Louis XV style heel covered in tan suede. Marked inside left shoe: "240 / 8623 / 2675" Remains of gilt stamped label inside right shoe: "BENCH" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114766/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of brown leather. In the "Oxford" style, somewhat pointed toes, with decorative stitching across vamp and sides of upper near heel. Shoes lace up at center front, with 4 holes per side. Brown laces. Modified Louis heel, rounded at sides and back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114769/
Shoes
Pair of heeled shoes of ivory kid leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, rounded at the tips. Vamp with beading decoration in white/crystal beads in patterns of scrolls, laurel, stars, etc. Modified Louis heel covered in same leather. Retailer's label: "Made / for / Kahn's / in / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114965/
Slippers
Pair of party slippers of pale pink silk satin. Shoes have rounded toes, and wide self strap across instep, which secures with domed coral-colored button on outside edge. Strap, vamp, and upper edges of shoe are edged in slightly darker pink silk ribbon. 1 3/4" high modified Louis or cuban heel. Marked inside shoe: "3-C" (size?) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38985/
Slippers
Pair of lady's slippers of brown kid leather with jet beading. Designed with pointed toes, the uppers are of brown kid leather, heavily decorated with radiating patterns of jet beads, over toe, around sides and throughout openwork that decorates throat and sides of shoes. Originally had sewn-in ties across the instep. Lined in black leather. Soles of black leather. High heels are of modified French style, sometimes called "spool" style, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front. There are no marks or labels in the shoes. The brown ribbons in photographs are not original, are to hold the shoe closed in place of original ribbons, now missing. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39007/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of brown linen. Made of a plain weave with both white and brown threads, the hat has pasteboard staves within the brim, a crenelated buttoning crown and long tail. The crown and tail are separate pieces, sewn together at neck seam, with the tail fastening to the sides of the brim by 3 off-white buttons on each side. The tail is semi-circular in shape, and the narrow chin ties are hemmed by hand. Poke-style bonnets are generally those that have brims stiffened either through quilting or plain starched fabric. Sunbonnets that rely on staves for brim support are not considered poke-style sunbonnets. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30075/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of white cotton broadcloth. The hat has a square-shaped brim with an outer layer of off-white weave material with a plain-weave backing, and crocheted trim. The brim is thin and does not appear to contain much stiffening material or starch. The crenelated crown fastens to brim by a series of 9 buttons on top and 2 buttons on each side. The crown is trimmed with the same crocheted trim as is the brim. The crown and tail are of a made of a single length of fabric. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30065/
Wedding Boots
Pair of lady's wedding boots of ivory silk or satin. Designed with pointed toes, the short boots fasten up the outer sides of each shoe with eleven buttons. The button lining is of ivory leather. The remaining lining is of ivory cloth with the upper portion silk or satin. Natural light brown leather sole; Heels are in the style of a Louis heel, rounded at sides and back, concave and flaring slightly to base. Handwritten notation on inner lining: "59576". Stamped on sole near heel: "6587". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39010/
Wedding Shoes
Wedding shoes of off-white or champagne satin. The shoes have rounded toes, and no ornamentation. The medium-high heel is set under, is rounded at back and sides and curved at front, tapers to center and then swells to base, and is covered with matching satin; it has the same natural brown colored leather on the heel's cap and on the soles of the shoes. Stamped inside both shoes: "2 D13583" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39016/
Wedding Slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of off-white kid leather. The shoes are designed with a slightly pointed toe, rounded at tip, with large off-white satin rosette at vamp. Modified Louis or Cuban heel. Size 3B digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114836/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of white silk damask with embroidery in green, blue, and pink. Around throat and upper edge is band of green embroidered pine cones(?)and scallop band. At toe is embroidered blossom in pale pink and blue, with trailing branches in greens with leaves in greens and buds in pinks and butterflies in greens, pinks, and browns. Along sides are similar embroidered branches, leaves, buds, and blossoms. Throatline of shoe with black banding. At point of throat is applied 3-dimensional flower of silk ribbon. Inner sole of dark tan leather, insides of shoes lined with pink/beige silk(?). Soles of leather, with built-up or stacked 1 1/4" (3cm) modified louis or opera heels. Stamped inside shoes in red are various marks in Chinese(?), and maker's mark, which is mostly illegible. Shoes are of the type called "straight lasts" in western society - no differentiation between left and right shoe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38980/
Shoes
Shoes of ecru silk. Slightly pointed with rounded toe. Strap of self fabric across instep, fastening with button on outside of foot with rounded pearl-like glass button. 1 3/8" high Louis style heel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38984/
Cape
Ripple style waist-length cape of black wool felt with yoke of five rows of black satin ribbon and 6" middle tier of black lace. Ruffled stand-up collar of black silk gauze. Secures at center front neckline with two hook & eyes and ties of black satin ribbon. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501333/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Cotton streamer ties. Channel stitching and eyelet lace ruffle on stiffened visor/brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87049/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton with eyelet brim, ruffles, apron. Rolled cording embellishment. Ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87050/
Bodice
Bodice of black serge with dark green braided cord passementerie and jet bead applique. V-shaped neckline with black lace and ivory net dickey which closes on the right with 4 snaps. Ivory lace trim around collar and black lace around neckline and at cuffs. Long sleeves. Snaps on waistband for skirt (possibly not original to bodice and added at a later date). Center front closure of 4 hook & eyes snap at waistline; 4 non-functioning covered buttons trimmed with black bugle beads. Lined in brown fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499053/
Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30073/
Bonnet
Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87048/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Channel-stitched. Corded brim that also stiffens and shapes bonnet. Long curtain of same. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87054/
Bonnet
Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277051/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots of black leather and wool broadcloth. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips. The lower part, including vamp, are of black leather. The upper part is of black wool broadcloth edged at scalloped top with black leather, and with black leather accent band running from heel partly up the back of the boot. The boots lace up along the front with 20 holes. Lined at top with reddish/orange fabric, the body of the shoe lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Stamped notation inside: "3 1/2 B R251" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39009/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with rounded pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front. The sole is of black leather. Shoes are lined in black leather and off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of black rubber(?) with molded grips. Manufacturer's mark molded into heel: "[Image of a walking man] / Healthway / USA". Stamped into sole: "Combination / Last" Handwritten notation on lining: "4/1/6 18261* / 51|23" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39027/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/silver lamé cloth. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 18 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. They are covered with the lamé fabric on the back and sides. The sole is of tan and brown leather, as is the cap on the heel. Shoes are lined in off-white cloth. Hand-written notation on inside lining, partly illegible: "37 / .... / 911" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39017/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black and tan leather. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather. The upper sections, of tan leather, close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black and tan leather. Stamped on sole: "TEDCO / Trade Mark" Stamped on lining: "435 72307 4" and "Tedco" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39018/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "H.Seligmann / Seguin, Tex." and "356 10146" Stamped on sole is a wreath containing an image of a shoe and label "Duchess". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39019/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The medium height, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, tapering slightly to ground. The sole is of tan leather. The shoes are lined in off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of brown rubber(?) with molded marks. Maker's mark in sole: "Hamilton-Brown / Makers / [illeg] Molded into heel: "Cushion Comfort Heel 2" Stamped in lining: "450 24512H" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39014/
Capelet
Capelet of dark brown to black plush, possibly silk and cotton, resembling seal fur. Rounded roll collar trimmed in brown soutache braid stitched with a line of purple thread and black glass or jet beads. Center front opening with hook & eye at neck. Trimmed in light brown with purple soutache braid and hexagonal prism, black glass beads. Collar and center front opening bound by black braid (appears to have been added after the original garment was made). Fully lined in a printed polished cotton (not original) of black with looping rope design and repeated fan shapes of pale blue, red, and cream. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501335/
Child's Dress
Child's "apron" dress of woven red and blue striped flannel with collar and one box pleat in front. Center front opening with snap at neckline. No belt - possibly missing. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501365/
Day Coat
Daytime coat of black wool for mourning wear. The princess-line shell of the coat falls to mid-calf with a scalloped hem, and has a high standing band collar lined with a gathered black silk ruffle. The ruffle is edged with two narrow bands of ruching and is embellished with cut-work backed in black silk, the cut-work edged with black grosgrain ribbon decorated with black beads and jet. From the center front of the collar, trailing black silk ribbon accents fall to knee-length, and four knee-length ribbons are finished with beaded tassels. The coat has full-length, shaped, slightly flared sleeves that gather into the armseye and are embellished with cut-work motifs and beading as the collar. The cuff edges are faced with box pleated bands of black silk ribbon. Center-front opening of coat with black wool placket facing from neck to waistline, and is secured with seven hook & eyes. Two more hook & eyes catch the front opening at mid-thigh and knee-level. The coat front and back are embellished with black silk backed cut-work and beading as the collar and sleeves. Fully lined in black silk. Black waist tie secured to lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503816/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38035/
Fan
Folding fan. Thin polished wood or bamboo guards lacquered a dark mahogany. The thin sticks are dyed purple. Paper leaf with hand-painted abstract design of flowers and foliage on a reddish ground. Metal bail. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels or marks. Gift of Mrs. Arthur Kramer, Sr., from the original Dallas Musuem of Fashion collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38042/
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30207/
Happi
Happi (Japanese traditional short coat) of indigo dyed heavy cotton or linen. Hip-length or slightly longer, with short sleeves. Center front opening with vertical bands on either side with starch paste resist design of Japanese characters. Back with large starch paste resist symbol at upper back, and linear maze-like design across main part of back, repeated at sides. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503810/
Hat
Hat of off-white silk over straw base. The crown slightly rounded at top, covered in off-white silk, with ruching and folds around side. Affixed to sides of crown at various points are artificial flowers of various colors of velvet. The medium-width brim is circular, of woven straw, originally covered with off-white silk, now mostly perished. The inside of the crown is lined in off-white muslin, partly shattered, and the underside of the brim was originally lined in white silk, now mostly perished. There are no labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39060/
Hat
Hat of silk. The off-white silk crown is domed, with excess fabric forming a ruched band around the lower part of the crown. The front and sides of the crown are embellished with embroidery and needlework of large flowers and foliage in white. Around the base of the crown is a band of white grosgrain ribbon, with rosette and trailing ribbons at side. The medium-width oval brim is of white silk over stiffened mesh framework, with outer band formed by openwork stitching. The brim is set off-center to the crown, extending the farthest from side to side, and with more brim in front than at back. The underside of the brim is faced with black velvet. The hat is lined in white silk, now shattering. There are no labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39059/
Kimono
Kimono of burgundy red silk with printed all-over design of large butterflies in creams, tans, blues, etc. Lined in orange crepe silk. Padded hem. Hand-sewn. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276990/
Kimono
Kimono of purple silk printed with designs of flowers, birds and butterflies in purples, blues, tans, reds, etc. Detailing in gold embroidery. With five white "mon" designs similar to a "yin-yang" shape of matched commas. Partly lined in red silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277142/
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment. The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/
Mourning Fan
Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38050/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black straw. The hat has a broad brim of woven black straw with an upturned outer edge which is trimmed in black velvet. The low, domed crown is also of woven black straw, with a band of black ostrich feathers around the base of the crown. One large ostrich feather plume attached to base of crown and extends out and over the back of the brim. Inside crown is black cloth lining. Sewn inside crown is black cloth label: "Mme Georgette / 11 Rue Scribe / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402502/