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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Shoes
Pair of black peau de soie heeled shoes. Slightly pointed rounded toe, with an oval openwork area at the throat of the vamp which simulates a buckle. These "buckles" are set with simulated black jet and cut steel beads. The 2 3/8" modified French heel is covered in black peau de soie. Marked on leather sole: "VOLK"; Stamped inside right shoe: "VOLK / DALLAS"; Notation inside each shoe: "172 / 5931 / 2355" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86997/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, have decorative band across toe cap with row of tiny holes along line of band. The boots close along center front with laces (laces lacking), 18 holes high. Medium/high stacked heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering slightly to base, and with curved front section. Sole of brown leather. Lined in off-white/tan canvas. Stamped on lining: "37 / 1 / 7395" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38998/
Toque
Toque of black velvet. The circular crown is of black velvet, gathered at top and crafted to create wrinkles. Brim at sides and front folds up to form "visor" at front of crown, on which are artificial berries, flowers, and leaves. Hat is lined with black satin. Maker's mark stamped inside crown, partly faded/worn: Perry Hat Shoppe / Perry, NY." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39106/
Shoe
Single shoe of tan damask weave cloth and black leather. Shoe designed with pointed toe, the toebox and heel of black leather, the rest of the upper in textured tan cloth. Across instep is wide strap with flaring ends to which is applied an ornate cut/stamped steel simulated buckle. Strap secures with buttons. Modified stacked Louis heel. Stamped inside: "The H&S. Pogue Co. / Cincinnati" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86971/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of dark brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. Embellished at toe with cut steel beads forming interlacing bands and lines. Medium height heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to center and then flaring out again at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in black leather and off-white fabric. Retailer's(?) stamp inside, partly illegible: "Famous / Paris, Tex." Hand-written notation on lining: "38-1 80364" Sold by Famous Shoe Store, Paris Texas (est. 1891). Worn by Kennie Holt Rucker in 1917-1918. Donated by Mary Helen Rucker to the Historical Collection (North Texas State University,Denton, Tex.). Transferred to the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39025/
Hat
Hat of plum colored velvet. Designed as a modified cloche, the low domed crown consists of two layers, "puffed" out and shirred to create gathers and folds. Between the layers is a band of ribbon trim with purple/plum dyed ostrich plumes, which form a "fringe" around the hat. The lower "puff" acts as brim. Lined in black fabric. There are no maker's, designer's, or retailer's labels or marks in the piece. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39105/
Shoes
Pair of woman's shoes of black leather and black suede. The black leather toe sections of the shoes are designed with gently rounded points. The back part of the shoes, and the single strap across the instep, are of black suede. Each of the straps secure with two circular iridescent black buttons. Shoes are lined in tan cloth inside toes, black leather insoles, and black fabric inside heels. Soles of black and tan leather. Medium heel of modified French style, with rounded sides and back, and slightly curving inner side. Stamped in gilt on insole: "Bench / Volk's / Made". Hand-written notation inside shoes: "6C / 18638 / 29" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39002/
Walking Shoes
Walking shoes of tan and black leather. The rounded toe and vamp are of black polished leather, the heel and sides of tan kid leather. A single strap across the instep fastens with two circular buttons out outer side of shoe. Decorative black stitching around edges and across strap on tan leather. Insole of light brown leather, and the insides of the sides are lined in tan leather. heavy low stacked heel. Sole of black leather with heavy applied rubber heel. Maker's label stamped in silver on insole: "Foot Schulze & Co / St., Paul" Stamped notation on lining: "455 29100" Molded into bottom of heel: "WAUK LITE" and "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39003/
Afternoon Dress
Afternoon dress of dark green silk satin, crepe and chiffon. The tunic-style dress of dark green silk satin is street-length, with a drop waist. It has a slight standing collar at back which extends out in front to become long ties with a backing of dark maroon. Below the bow formed by the ties is V-shaped neckline. The full-length sleeves are dark green silk satin from shoulders to elbows and are translucent green crepe from elbows to cuffs. The main part of the gauze sections are embroidered with floral motifs in red, pink, and green/gold. The sleeves have two snaps at each cuff, which are trimmed with bands of pink crepe, maroon crepe, and dark green satin. On the front of the skirt are three wide, slightly overlapping tiers of fabric, split at center front, which start below the hips and end slightly above the hem. The dress is unlined, and there are no tags or labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29995/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots of black leather. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes, slightly rounded at tips. The boots lace up along the front with 18 holes. Lined at with black fabric. Modified Louis or boulevard heels, rounded at sides and back, flaring to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Embroidered logo inside: "[Part lion/part fish symbol] / Wichert / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115022/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of black leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toe and plain leather upper. The 2" heel is of modified Louis style, covered with black leather and flaring at base. Retailer label: "Sanger Brothers / Dallas - Waco" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115021/
Wedding Slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of ivory silk satin. Shoes have pointed toes and slight "rolled edge" stitched accent along top of shoe. 2" high modified Louis or cuban heel, flaring to base. Retailer's mark stamped on insole: "Thayer-McNeil Company / Boston" Handwritten inside shoe: "7054 / 4 1/2 aa / 20942" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115017/
Bonnet
Child's bonnet of peach colored, gathered silk crepe with tiny silk ribbons and flowers. Mint green silk velvet ribbon ties. Lined in white cotton gauze. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114969/
Bonnet
Bonnet of multicolored fruit print cotton. Eyelet lace trimmed edges. Stiff brim and ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39209/
Cloche
Cloche hat of olive green silk velvet. The domed crown is constructed in eight sections, and surrounded by a pleated band of the same materials. Around the base of the crown is a band of green and silver metallic woven fabric. At right side of hat are two wide pendant green velvet ribbons, and applied to the side above the ribbons are peach/pink and cream velvet blossoms with green cloth leaves. Flowers attach with straight pins. Hat is lined in black. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39063/
Cloche
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39099/
Cloche
Cloche style hat of beige crocheted straw. The rounded crown with tucks and folds is created of beige straw which has been crocheted. Around base of crown is band of dark brown piping. Shallow brim is turned up around sides and back, with wide edge band of brown satin with parallel rows of stitching. Front of brim has radiating ridges worked into straw. Hat is lined with dark beige satin. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Budwig / Ltd." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39117/
Cloche
Cloche hat of royal blue velvet and silver lace. The cylindrical crown is of royal blue velvet, slightly domed and slightly "crushed". The top panel of the crown is of silver lace over a dark fabric. Around the sides of the crown, nearer the top than the base, is a horizontal band of the same silver lace. The shallow brim is constructed of the royal blue velvet and overlaid with the silver lace, which extends beyond the edge of the velvet. The crown is lined in a cream/iridescent satin; most of the underside of the brim is lined with blue velvet. Maker's label embroidered to center inner lining panel of crown: [pseudo coat of arms] "The Denver Dry Goods Co. / Paris New York / Denver", with small embroidered "FRONT" indicating the front of the hat. Retailer's label sewn to inner side of crown: "Parisian / Abilene, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39107/
Cloche
Cloche hat of black silk velvet. The rigid crown has a flattened top, and sides formed of gathers of the velvet forming horizontal ridges. The brim is a soft, gathered and padded "ruffle" of the same velvet. The hat is lined in a black satin. Sewn inside crown is retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39068/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan linen. The off-the-face cloche has a high, domed crown embellished with white saddle stitching along seams. The brim is of the same material, folded up at front and descending down at sides and is turned down at back. At center back is a separation in the brim, with a small tan linen bow between the sections. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside the base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Reproduction / Rose Descat / 22 Rue Royale / Paris"; Second label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39139/
Cloche and Scarf Set
Cloche hat of embroidered pink linen. The slightly domed crown is made of pink linen with all-over tiny white embroidered polka-dots. The matching brim is turned up at front, sewn to crown, and descends at sides, turning downwards at back. At center back the brim is split, with a bow of the same fabric affixed at the split. The hat is lined with white silk. There are no labels or tags in the hat. The hat is accompanied by a necktie/scarf of the same fabric. Original records indicate the set is probably French in origin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39142/
Dress
Dress of navy wool gabardine in two parts. The main body of the tubular-shaped dress is full-length, sleeveless, with a round neckline. It has decorative bead-work at upper bust, on back at shoulders and down spine, in a line from right hip down to hem, and around hem. The bead-work includes lines of red and clear beads, spirals and "bursts" of clear and red beads, circular ornaments of red beads, and a roundel at front to bottom right at hem of a scene of a wine jug against a blue, clear and green background. The dress has an opening from left shoulder to waist which is secured with a line of hidden snaps, and is decorated with nine cloth and plastic circular non-functioning buttons arranged in groups of three. The dress is unlined. The dress has with it a detachable cropped camisole of white cotton with center front hook-and-eyes closure and white elastic waistband. The sleeves of the camisole are of navy wool gabardine, bell-shaped, and match the dress. They are decorated with the same style bead-work as the dress, including lines of red and clear beads running from shoulders to wrist, clear and red beaded spirals and "bursts", and roundels with designs in blue, red, and green. When worn, the camisole sleeves blend in with the dress and look like one garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30119/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of kid skin leather; off-white; just below wrist length; single snap fastenings at wrist. On back of each glove, running length-wise down hand are three embroidered bands, pink and blue chevrons in diamond formation on dark blue bands. Cuffs from wrist to end are lined with black silk heavily embroidered with floral motifs in blue, pinks, reds, whites, greens, etc. in chain-stitch. Remainder of glove is unlined. Stamped inside glove: "Modèle déposé [Fr-En: Registered Design] / Paris" and "6" and part of other marks. Metal parts of the snaps have what appear to be Chinese/Japanese characters stamped into them. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87119/
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular silver art deco openwork frame set with tiny marcasites and circular cabochon black stones (onyx?). Bag is of black silk velvet. Handle of black silk velvet with two silver rings set with marcasites. Lined with dusty pink ribbed silk, and containing a small rectangular mirror. Marked on frame: "MD" in a square; Diamond shaped mark with an M over a K; and an illegible shield-shaped punch. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30047/
Hat
Hat of red purple/plum silk velvet. The hat has elements of a turban, tam-o-shanter, and beret. It is made with an oversized crown of red purple or plum velvet, gathered, caught, and draped, pulling under and then back out to form a brim that does not extend as far as the billows of fabric from the crown. The fabric is embellished with running lines of matching chenille, and clusters of silver-gray painted wooden beads. The hat is lined in black satin. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Pogue / Cincinnati". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39069/
Hat
Hat of black satin with asymmetrical brim upturned at front with faux fur crown. Brim is satin on top with pleating on underside. Label sewn into lining of crown: "Bijou / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39170/
Hat
Hat of off-white French linen. The soft crown is domed and formed of six segments. Around the base of the crown is a red linen ribbon, threaded through a series of six "belt-loops" spaced around the base of the crown at approximately where the segments join. The slightly stiffened, and quilted in a pattern of concentric circles. The hat is unlined, and has an inner hatband of off-white linen at inside base of crown. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39180/
Hat
Calotte with braided yellow ribbon crown with brown and dark brown knotted yarn brim. Designer's label on inside brim: "J. Suzanne Talbot / Modes / 14 Rue Royale Paris" Maker's label : "34064" Label on inside brim: "made in france" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39135/
Hat
Small child's hat of blue and white checked gingham. Buttoned on, detachable brim with 7 small white buttons. Crown gathered by drawstring. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39132/
Hat
Beret of hand knit white yarn with folded side tab trim of white linen on left and right. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39143/
Hat
Calotte of rust brown knit with rolled straw brim in browns and gold. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentin / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France" Size label on inside hatband: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39134/
Headpiece
Headpiece of moderately muted red orange velour. The covered wire bandeau is designed to be worn over head, encircling ears, and has about thirty velour loops accented with eight randomly tied dangling pendants. Each pendant consists of three silver-colored globular beads and three silver oval beads and one larger white opaque globular glass bead at the end of each pendant. Donor stated that the piece had been worn by the Russian ballet dancer, Anna Pavlova. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39192/
Parure - Hat, Bracelets, Necklace, Belt
Parure made of natural, brown, and black woven/plaited straw, consisting of: A) Hat. Styled as an oversized calotte (also spelled "calot") or small cloche. The domed crown is constructed of radiating segments of woven/plaited straw in bands of brown, natural/tan, and black. At the top of the crown is a circle of black straw. Slightly scalloped lower edge. Designer's(?) label inside: "Marcelle Biot / 30 Rue de Valois / Paris" and 'Made in France" Three matching bracelets: B) Natural/tan straw bracelet, with a single band of brown straw and a single band of black straw. Black metal clasp. C) Brown straw bracelet, with a single band of black straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. D) Black straw bracelet, with single band of brown straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. Each bracelet with label: "Made in France". E) Matching necklace of bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Designed as a modified "bib" necklace, wider at center and narrowing to clasp ends. Black metal clasp. F) Matching belt, with lengthwise bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Black straw "buttons" and loops. "Made in France" label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39138/
Pumps
Pumps of black satin and black kid leather. Vamp with cutwork in leather forming a modified sunray or comet design centered on circular metal button set with rhinestones. The cutwork is embellished with black jet beadwork. Louis XV style heels covered in black satin. Stamped inside one shoe in gold, partly illegible: "Kasson's / Knickerbocker / Cincinnati" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30028/
Pumps
Heeled pumps of black leather. Vamp has shaped leather segment simulating a buckle, embellished with cut steel bead trim. Narrow 2 1/4" high Boulevard-style heel covered in black leather. Marked in each shoe: "6 1/2 AA B 85814 / 2418" Label in right shoe: "Special / Measurements / By W.B. Coon Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114830/
Purse
Handbag of black silk faille with multicolored floral embroidery. Purse has round, gold frame in leaf motif and plunger closure. Gold chain handle. Peach lining with pocket. Retailer's label: " Sanger Bros. Inc. / Paris - France" Label above pocket in side of purse: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277068/
Purse
Coin purse in circular shape of glass beads shades of white and light blue. Rose flower design in center. Semicircular brass frame and ball twist closure. Trimmed with black bead loop and 5mm crystal on bottom. Pink rope handle. Cream colored cloth lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277006/
Purse
Handbag of glass beads of boldly colored shades of green, yellow, red, blue, pink and black in a somewhat stylized floral design. Bronze frame cast with floral forms and openwork, and set with navy blue and green cabochons. Roses on frame have remains of applied coloration. Suspension chain in rope form with spaced clusters of green and blue beads. Bag has looped and twisted fringe at bottom composed of green and black faceted beads. Pink satin lining, mostly deteriorated. Ball and socket filigree closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277055/
Purse
Clutch style purse of size 18 beads in paisley pattern in shades of pink, blue, peach, black and opal white. Wide brass lift lock closure includes 5 shapes of size 16 beads with repeating patterns. Lined in cream colored satin with two pockets. Finger loop of same on back side of purse at top. Maker's label on inside of purse: "Made in France / Exclusively by / Florentine" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276979/
Purse
Cosmetic case of silver in envelope shape with etching. Plunger opening. Gold interior of floral design with mirror and openings to hold makeup. Silver chain handle alternates between chain links and bars. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277158/
Hat
Hat of red velvet and bronze/green gold gauze. Hat is styled as a turban, the crown of red velvet with various folds and puffs. Around the sides of the crown are braided bands of the same velvet and of a bronze/green gold gauze, giving the edge of the hat the appearance of being a turban wound in two different fabrics. Original lining missing(?), revealing the inner lining of loosely woven white fabric stitched to hold the folds and bands of cloth. No designer's, maker's, or retailer's labels in the item. Item may be of either British or American manufacture. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39125/
Hat
Small girl's homemade hat with wire frame. Yellow dotted Swiss cotton crown. White organdy brim and hatband. Edges embroidered with narrow lace ruffle underneath. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39133/
Suit
Woman's suit consisting of three pieces, a coat, blouse, and skirt. Coat and skirt are made of navy blue wool. The coat has a center front opening, and long sleeves which end just above wrist. The skirt is slightly below mid-calf length. The blouse is made of rust-colored chiffon with rounded neck, and is decorated with beading and embroidery. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29994/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige/dull dusty rose pink rayon faille. The domed crown is crated from a folded/draped and seamed piece of fabric with dark brown braid and light tan and metallic cord. At front of hat is very short brim decorated with brown grosgrain ribbon forming overlapping sections as the ends of a bow. Hat is lined in a red/coral fabric. There are no maker or designer labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39111/
Cloche
Cloche of black velour. The domed crown is of "crumpled" black velour encircled at the base by a band of silver ribbon. The narrow brim is curled up at the edge and sides, and is lined with a multicolored brocade with metallic threads as accents. On right side of hat, near base of crown, is a large pompom of black feathers. Set near the pompom is a pin of black composition/plastic and silvered metal in the form of a hook (partly missing?). The crown of the hat is lined with greyish silk embroidered in gold. Maker's and Retailer's label embroidered inside crown: "Paris New York / Jaccard / Hats / Made expressly for / Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Paper label stapled to lining: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas, - Texas / 226-1 / 10-26 / $35.00 / 30.00" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39124/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of embroidered silk organza with pink silk acetate lining and belt; square neckline; sleeveless with rhinestone embellished velvet straps attached by rhinestone snaps in front and back; velvet trim; three tiers with pink floral embroidery; pink velvet belt embellished with rhinestones and a velvet flower digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30052/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of ivory colored leather. On back of each glove is a stitched swirl design of 5 ribs. The gloves widen to end with piped hems, and extend to about mid-forearm. Appears to be a youth size. Stamped inside gloves: A) "ARIS" logo in hemisphere; "U.S. Pat. / Aug. 22'22"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. B) "5 3/4"; "U.S. Pat. / Sept 19'22 / Made in Germany"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87118/
Gloves
Pair of gloves. Ivory kid leather gloves with brown and gray embroidery. Hands have inside seaming; 3 darts on top; darts highlighted by rows of gray chain-stitching with ivory dots woven in; wrists have sewn on cuffs; cuffs feature strip of pale off white leather; embellished with geometric and circle embroidery in brown thread; snap under wrist creates keyhole underneath as well. Stamped inside in purple ink: "Made in Belgium / Real Kid". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38132/
Hat
Hat of burnt orange/rust colored straw. The domed crown is of finely woven burnt orange/rust colored straw with secondary horizontal bands of slightly larger strands woven into the base material. At its base, the crown curves in, under, down and out, creating a "mushroom" effect, with the main part of the crown as the "cap", and a smaller section of "stalk" below. The oval brim is of the same woven straw, and set off-center to the crown, creating a much wider brim at sides and back, and a smaller brim in front. The edge of the brim is edged in coarl colored silk. The hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39104/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige felt. The high, domed crown is of dark beige/brownish felt, pulled and gathered to create texture at top back. The brim, of the same felt, is narrow, curving down at sides and up at back. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon, which passes through slots in the upturned back section of the brim. At the side of the hat, the ribbon is gathered slightly, and has three segments that extend forward around the crown, fanning upwards to partly cover the front of the hat. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze fabric. In crown of hat is ornate embroidered label consisting of an oval surmounted by a device with triple ostrich plumes; small coats of arms at the ends of the oval, and the text " Imported / Amhat / Chiffon Felt", with inscription below: "Reg. U.S. Patent Office". Attached inside base of crown is original paper tag: "Berlin / Amhat / New York" and "Triste / Imported / Chiffon Felt". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39064/