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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Purse
Purse of multicolored Bargello needlepoint. The envelope-style purse is covered in silk embroidery in greens, blues, reds, pinks, black, etc., in the Florentine Bargello, edged in green wool. On one side, under flap, is rectangular section with monogram FH and date 1775 worked in embroidery. Opens to reveal 2 separate compartments, lined in green homespun wool. Silk embroidery is disintegrating to reveal canvas ground. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499054/
Child's Ensemble
Child's dress ensemble of tan cotton with green and red/orange floral print consisting of: A) Skirt. Full length; pleated. One-inch waistband of muslin. Right side slit pocket. Center back opening; closures missing. Bottom of inside hem lined in brown glazed cotton; balance of skirt unlined. B) Bodice. Fitted with wide neckline; dropped shoulders. Neckline is trimmed with double row of fluted fabric of self. Short, puffed sleeves with caps trimmed with fluted fabric of same. V-shaped pleats in front. Center back opening closes with 9 hook & eyes. Lined in muslin. C) Fichu. Triangular panels of decreasing size applied to look like pleats. Four-inch epaulets of same with self-covered buttons at ends. Seven self-covered buttons down center back seam with evidence of three missing buttons. Lined in brown glazed cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501305/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of tan and blue braided straw. The hat has a wired brim and a grayish-white silk lining. It is trimmed in tan silk ribbon, and the bavolet, or back panel which shades the neck, is composed of brown, brick red, tan and blue striped cotton fabric. The ties are of brown silk taffeta and are attached to lower edge of brim with a herringbone stitch. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30282/
Bonnet
Bonnet of blue silk. Brim is hand-quilted in square corners and curving lines that follow the shape of the brim in even lines. The brim is composed of 3 pieces of silk fabric, which are pieced together and then quilted. Cotton used as batting material throughout. The crown is entirely quilted in rows of horizontal stitching and radiating circles. The tail has L-shaped quilting, which echoes the front edge of the tail. The chin ties are striped silk ribbons. Some areas of fabric loss and shattering on bonnet and ties. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29993/
Christening Gown
Christening gown of white cotton muslin. Hand made and embroidered. Gathered waist trimmed in laisse anglais. Rounded neckline with V insert of eyelet lace. Eyelet trim at wrists, neck and hem. Scalloped insert panel down front trimmed in tatted eyelet with floral embroidery and six tiers of tatted eyelet. Center back opening is pleated with three covered buttons and drawstring at waist. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795304/
Hat
Hat of off-white wool yarn and beads. Hat is based on a fanchon style, consisting of a knitted, somewhat diamond-shaped piece to fit across top of head and extending down sides to the ears with wide off-white silk ribbon ties at end of extensions. Unlike a regular fanchon, which is solely of a piece of flat lace, this cap has a deep pile of the same wool yarn over the entire surface of the cap, each piece tipped with a cylindrical frosted white bead. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114811/
Mitts
Pair of black cotton lace mitts. The wrist-length fingerless gloves are of hand-crocheted lace, in a wide mesh. Slight frill at wrist, and separate thumb. A narrow black ribbon is threaded through the cuff, one ribbon lacking. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86986/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of black silk taffeta. The brim of the hat has 6 shirred hoops with deep padding in between, and a ruffled edge of the same fabric. At center back of neck, on the tail of the hat, is a flat bow of black silk taffeta, and the ties are of black silk taffeta ribbon. The crown is lined with brown glazed cotton fabric. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30079/
Crinoline
Off-white crinoline with spring steel hoops. Covered in fabric with white on white woven design of "H" shapes. Metal fastener at front of 1" wide waist band. First four rows of springs only go half-way around skirt and are tied around the body in front. Last five rows form complete circle or hoop. No labels in garment. Attached tag with what appears to be an auction lot number, "253". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87025/
Wedding Slippers
Wedding shoes of off white kid leather. Designed with a square toe and throat, shoes have a large ruffled ribbon bow with tiny metal buckle set at top of toebox. Edge of upper bound with off-white satin ribbon. The low heel is of modified Cuban or Louis style, rounded at sides and back, covered in kid leather. Handwritten note: "My wedding slippers" S.S.D. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114823/
Fan
Folding fan of bone and satin. Guards and sticks of bone, intricately carved with pierced latticework. Plain off-white silk satin leaf. Chased metal bail ring at pivot with mother-of-pearl beads. Off-white silk tassel tied to bail. Inscribed on silk leaf along one guard: "Hood W. [illeg.] / June 5th /73"; other inscriptions on other guard, too fragile to examine. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38052/
Girl's Dress
Girl's dress of blue calico cotton with white print. Stand up collar. Inset waist with long, gathered skirt. Long sleeves gathered at wrist with drawstrings. Center front opening with 8 button closure. Bodice lined with what may be sugar sack fabric; skirt unlined. Skirt is 33" long with 22" waist. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795330/
Jacket
Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin. Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29991/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of black & tan woven cotton check/plaid. Full-length, with high, rounded collar. Set in black taffeta full-length sleeves with wide cuffs of the black/tan check, secured with two mother of pearl buttons each. Natural waist. Hem with wide band of ruffled black taffeta and a plain band of black taffeta running slightly above hem. Patch pocket at right hip composed of plaid panels formed as a "vest", with black taffeta ruffle filling in center, and three non-functioning circular mother of pearl buttons on slight curve following edge of "vest" front non-functioning opening. Center back opening with 9 circular mother of pearl buttons and hook & loop at neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701507/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of ivory kidskin leather. The shoes, designed with slightly rounded toes, button closed along outer side, with 8 domed leather-covered buttons on each shoe. Edge along buttons is scalloped, as is the upper edge of the boot. The The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, and taper slightly to base. Left Shoe markings: "Excelsior" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115018/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of tan flannel with front panel of brown velvet. Long sleeves with 3" cuff of brown velvet. Turndown collar of brown velvet with pointed ends and neckline trimmed in ivory lace; collar partially detaches on right and secures with a hook & eye. Patch pockets at sides of brown velvet. Front panel has 10 tortoise shell buttons to left of panel and right side opening of 11 matching buttons with barred buttonholes. Gored in back with six small pleats at bottom of back. Hem of garment has pleated 4-1/2" border of self trimmed with 1-1/2" band of brown velvet. Lined in tan cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501353/
Fan
Folding fan with mother-of-pearl sticks and guards. Leaf of white needlepoint lace backed3with cream satin. Silver-colored "U" shaped bail ring at bottom. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38032/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of black wool with red paisley trim. Full length dress, with turned down collar of paisley print. Long sleeves with 4" cuffs trimmed in matching paisley print. Center front opening with 15 nonfunctional paisley covered buttons with hook & eyes underneath. Side pockets trimmed in paisley print. Center back panel is gathered at waist to give slight bustle effect and is belted in paisley print with oval buckle in black ribbed fabric. Lined in brown polished cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701506/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of ivory kid leather. Rounded toes, with stitched detailing on tongues and with applied leather bow at instep with many "loops" creating large "poof". Shoes of ivory kid leather. Short, modified Louis heel covered with same leather. Stamped inside left Shoe: "Mayer & Stern/ Phila. / Centennial / 1776-1876" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114765/
Bag
Handbag for afternoon or evening use. Frame of simulated tortoiseshell, carved and with openwork, with ball/snap closure and chain. Body of bag is of beige fabric with multi-colored petit-point embroidery of a bouquet of flowers. Floral motif on bag in grey, greens, blues, pinks and rose. Lined in rose ribbed silk, and contains a change purse and mirror. French or English in origin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30025/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with rounded toes, button closed along outer side, with 14 domed black glass buttons on each shoe. The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, and taper slightly to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "The Krippendorf / Dittmann Co. / Cincinnati" Stamped on sole: "3 36" Stamped inside: "36 3 14522" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86985/
Boy's Suit (Jacket, Pants, and Shirt)
Boy's suit. Coat jacket of red wool. Black revers trimmed in black braid with sailor style collar. Long sleeves trimmed with black braid. Slit pocket at left breast with black braid. Ten black silk jacquard covered buttons. Lined in black silk. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas / Waco" Matching trousers of red wool with black trim on sides seams. Closure of black covered buttons at sides of waistband. Cotton interior waistband with buttonholes for securing shirt to trousers. Stamp on back left waistband (mostly illegible). Accompanying shirt of red silk front panel with ivory damask cotton back panel. Sleeveless. Shirt has ruffles down center front placket with 3 circular white decorative buttons. Pointed collar. Center back opening with 3 circular, white buttons and tailored buttonholes. Shirt has 7 additional buttons around hem which attach to trousers. Front panel lined in matching ivory damask cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503809/
Cape
Burnoose-style cape of lavender wool flannel. Mid-skirt length front and back, rounded at bottom to be shorter on each side. Fitted at shoulders. Attached hood gathered around face by use of ribbon ties woven through satin bound buttonholes around border of hood (ribbon missing). Center front opening and hem are trimmed with wide band of pastel green cording in scroll design. Closure of matching satin ribbon ties at neckline. Lined in pastel green satin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501296/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of taupe cotton/silk trimmed in turquoise silk. Flair silhouette with dropped, pleated waist having hip belt effect, and pleats at hem and down center front. Center back opening with 7 turquoise silk covered buttons and tailored buttonholes. Short sleeves with lace at hem. Squared neckline. Lined in brown mercerized cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701468/
Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Ensemble of green and blue plaid cotton with collar and buttons of navy blue velvet. Ensemble consists of: A) Bodice. Waist is fitted with fastening of nine velvet covered buttons and tailored buttonholes, snap at neckline and two hook&eyes at hem. High stand-up collar of velvet. Long sleeves gathered with feather stitching; 6" fitted cuffs. Lined in brown polished cotton. B) Skirt. Full length; gathered on 1" waistband of black cotton with closure of two hook & eyes. Back panel for bustle has waistband of brown polished cotton and ties. One slit pocket at right side seam. 24" waist. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795307/
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of carved and pierced ivory (bone?)with a foliage designs. The white sheer organdy leaf is hand-painted with central vignette of a garden scene of a couple greeting a woman seated on a bench. The leaf with added hand-panted border of a garland of flowers. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has been in-expertly mended at some point previous to entering collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38048/
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of lightly carved ivory (bone?) with scrolling foliate designs. The leaf is of white lace. Sticks are unadorned on the reverse. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has alternately been identified as Irish lace or machine-made lace, and dated 1830's or 1880-1899. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38046/
Hat
Hat of green felt in the style of a tricorne or cocked hat. Trimmed with green silk roses, brown feathers, a brass buckle on right side and bow on back. Lined in black with central "drawstring". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277091/
Purse
Handbag with cast and chased silver frame decorated with openwork figures of children harvesting grapes. Ball/snap closure. Silver suspension chain of alternating oval links and links formed of three flower-heads. Bag is oval shaped, black wool with petite point embroidery decoration on each side of a bouquet of trumpet shaped flowers. Pink satin lining. Hallmarked "800" on frame. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277033/
Reticule
Reticule. Drawstring handbag/purse of black knit with openwork band along top through which drawstring is threaded. Running around center of bag are three horizontal bands of blue beads bordered by silver/gold lined beads. Lower part of the bag is completely covered by horizontal bands of silver/gold lined beads and blue beads. Bottom of bag with large sphere covered with blue beads from which hangs tassel of silver/gold lined bead loops. Unlined. Has been dated 1880-1890 or ca. 1916. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30063/
Pumps
Pair of plum purple satin pumps. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe, and plain uppers. The low heel is of a modified Louis or Cuban style, set in, and covered with matching fabric. Partly lined in white kidskin leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38992/
Infant's Gown
Infant's gown of white cotton batiste. Round neckline trimmed with ruffle of broderie anglaise. Eleven horizontal bands of broderie anglaise separated with shirring down center front. Hemline trimmed with a 4" band of pin tucks, two band of broderie anglaise separated with shirring and scalloped hem of broderie anglaise. Sleeve hems trimmed with three rows of pin tucks and ruffle of broderie anglaise. Center back closure of 4 pearl buttons on rectangular panel of three vertical bands of broderie anglaise separated by two shirred sections; gathers at base of panel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701503/
Fan
Folding fan with 17 bone sticks; white lace with round and clover leaf shaped silver sequins. Sticks carved with tiny flower and dot designs on 8 sticks and leaf and curly designs on 9 sticks. Back of fan is not decorated. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38096/
Wedding Slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of ivory kid leather. The shoes are designed with rounded toes, and have a large matching bow with layered ends, and a large ruffle of same across vamp. Uppers are edged with satin ribbon. Modified Louis or Cuban heel, flaring at base. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114887/
Infant's Dress
Infant's dress of fine batiste cotton with broderie anglaise. Yoke has attached 4"ruffle of broderie anglaise with insertion lace and pink satin ribbon. Long sleeves have insertion lace cuffs and pink satin ribbon. Full length. No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701412/
Bed Jacket
Bed jacket of black openwork. Hip length-jacket is formed of vertical panels of black braid open work net overlaid/appliqu├ęd with black braid in scrolls and arabesques, the whole is lined/backed with black silk. The panels are constructed to create princess seamed segments for shape/fit. Elbow-length sleeves, V-neckline at front with two hook & eye closures on center front. Neckline and upper part of opening trimmed with off-white eyelet lace ruffle. Two black braided circular button-like applied elements at center front, one at either side of opening. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499027/
Bodice
Dress top/bodice of black silk brocade in "tree branch" geometric design with lavender silk vestee front over-laid with black point d'esprit in pattern of squares. Modified leg of mutton sleeve with black passementerie trim. Stand-up collar of matching lavender silk covered in black lace. Collar and vestee close on left with hook & eyes. Black fabric lining of bodice is boned and closes at center front with hook & eyes in which hooks and eyes alternate sides. 29" waist. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498989/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 13 holes high. At top of toe box is decorative seaming creating a "V" shape. The low, stacked heels styled as a modified Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering at center then flaring very slightly at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in cream cloth and black leather. Partly illegible retailer's(?) mark stamped inside uppers: "Linkhau... / Memphis Tenn" Handwritten notation inside uppers: "236 6788" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39028/
Capelet
Capelet of black silk satin. The short cape is trimmed along hem with 3-1/2" band of pleated organza and band of jet beads. Standing neckline trimmed in pleated organza. Center front opening with closure of five hook & eyes, with bow of black silk satin moire with trailing ends attached to right side of opening at throat. Shoulder yoke bordered in tightly gathered narrow band of black organza. Bright purple moire silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501286/
Capelet
Two-tiered capelet of midnight blue/black velvet and off-white lace. Capelet extends to about small of back, and has high, standing collar trimmed in dense ruff of tightly gathered of black chiffon. Around throat, along both sides of center front opening, around hem, and on edges and hem of the wide tier (7" at center front, 8" over shoulders) is wide band of off-white floral and scroll lace, placed as an applique along edges. Lined in brown fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Mme. Josse / 3 / Boulevard des Italiens / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499004/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of navy blue calico with rose colored paisley print. Long sleeves with caps at shoulders. Empire waistline; full length. Standing collar trimmed with ivory lace. Center front opening with 6 circular brass, concave buttons with red painted centers decorated with silver circles and a star. Back panel in Watteau style and forms a small train. Upper part of dress lined in blue cotton with small white flowers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501313/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38040/
Fan
Folding fan with tortoise-shell frame. Sticks and loop of tortoise shell; possibly for brise style fan; missing leaf or ribbon. Measurements: 39 cm extended; guard 21 cm long x 3 cm wide digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38047/
Girl's Dress
Girl's dress of calico in print of blue, green and gold flowers on red background. Square neckline trimmed in lace with three rows of narrow, black velvet ribbon. Elbow-length sleeves trimmed in matching lace and velvet ribbon. Full length, with dropped waist. Center front opening with five mother-of-pearl buttons and barred buttonholes; snap at bottom of opening. Bodice lined in muslin; sleeves and skirt unlined. Tag at center back neckline: "105" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503763/
Hat
Day/house hat of creme silk. Wide, wired brimmed hat with gold stitching throughout. Wide, low crown with ruffled brim. Pink flowers under and above brim. Large bow of self at back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277174/
Lotus shoes
Pair of lotus shoes for bound feet. Tiny heeled shoes of dark navy silk, the uppers with multicolored floral embroidery at top and sides, and cloud-form patterns of couched gold thread around heels. Edged at top with blue silk ribbon. The shaped heels are of white leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461833/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of light pink silk taffeta and feathers. The domed crown is totally covered by sprays of off-white ostrich feathers and pale pink veiling. At one side is a metal buckle with rhinestones. The wide brim is wired at outer edge and covered with the same silk. The whole is swathed in veiling which also hangs down to secure below face of wearer. Crown of hat is lined in off-white silk, the brim is lined with the same pink silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276989/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of black leather. Designed with pointed toes, the black leather uppers of the shoes are cut back at sides of vamp to create a "tongue" which is of pointed outline. Applied to vamp is an openwork stamped ornamental metal buckle simulating cut steel, with black patina. Modified Louis heel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114805/
Shoes
Pair of shoes. Black leather and tan suede uppers, leather at toe box and extending back, suede along heel and quarter. Cut-outs at vamp where suede and leather join. 2 1/4" high Louis XV style heel covered in tan suede. Marked inside left shoe: "240 / 8623 / 2675" Remains of gilt stamped label inside right shoe: "BENCH" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114766/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of brown leather. In the "Oxford" style, somewhat pointed toes, with decorative stitching across vamp and sides of upper near heel. Shoes lace up at center front, with 4 holes per side. Brown laces. Modified Louis heel, rounded at sides and back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114769/
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