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 Country: United States
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1953
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Skirt suit. A) Jacket of black boucle wool. Long, set-in sleeves with hem edged in black satin. Turn-back collar, black satin revers. Four front patch pockets with flaps trimmed in black satin and one circular black satin-covered button on each pocket. Lined in black silk satin. Combined designer's/retailer's label at inside back collar: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Blouse of black satin. Piped around jewel neckline and sleeveless armholes. 2" waistband ties at left side. Zipper closure from hem partway up left side. Center back opening with 2 hook & loops. Unlined. Six elastic loops around hem to attach to skirt. No labels in blouse. C) Skirt of black boucle wool. Mid-length; 4 gored with two zippers at waist creating a "front flap" which also secures with two tabs at waistband, each tab secured with two hook-and-eyes. Four buttons at waistband which secure to loops on hem of blouse. Lined in black silk. No labels found in skirt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1954
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress of black wool jersey knit. The late-day dress is of mid-length, with bateau (boat) neckline and short sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye at neckline. The fitted torso has a natural waistline with a fitted yoke from natural waist to full hip. Pleated/gathered skirt of black tissue faille begins below yoke and flares to hem. Around the waist is an attached wide faille sash which ties in front forming a bow with trailing ribbons. The bodice of the dress is lined in black and the skirt has a heavy fabric underskirt and two attached layers of net crinoline. Joint designer's and retailer's label sewn inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1954~
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail / late day dress of black silk faille. Shallow scooped neckline, short "kimono" style sleeves with wide turn-backs. Bodice seamed, and with dropped waist. Full, mid-length skirt gathers into waist. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at collar. Inner petticoat under skirt composed of two layers, inner plain black fabric layer and outer stiffened horsehair layer. Designer's label sewn inside skirt, outside of petticoat layer: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1954
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress of black wool jersey knit. The late-day dress is of mid-length, with bateau (boat) neckline and short sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye at neckline. The fitted torso has a natural waistline with a fitted yoke from natural waist to full hip. Pleated/gathered skirt of black tissue faille begins below yoke and flares to hem. Around the waist is an attached wide faille sash which ties in front forming a bow with trailing ribbons. The bodice of the dress is lined in black and the skirt has a heavy fabric underskirt and two attached layers of net crinoline. Joint designer's and retailer's label sewn inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1954
Creator: Orcel, Gilbert
Description: Hat of red straw. The low, flat-top crown slopes to base, swelling out to form a very narrow brim. The body of the hat is of a loose woven red straw overlaid with strips of woven red straw radiating from the top center of the crown. At the front of the hat is a dark red velvet bow. The interior of the hat is unlined, but the strips of straw continue under the brim, forming a self-lining. Around inside of crown at base is an inner hatband of dark red grosgrain ribbon. Attached to the inner hatband is a black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Beneath brim towards back extend small red velvet covered metal(?) loops to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Gilbert Orcel / Paris / Made in France. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Henri Bendel / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Beret

Beret

Date: 1955
Creator: Chez Henriette
Description: Hat of striped felt. The hat is formed as a "pancake beret" on a rigid, slightly curved frame. The crown is of felt with wide width-wise stripes of olive green and black. The edge is embellished with a swagged band of bronze and black beads which runs from just behind the midway point of the side of the hat, around the front, and to just behind the midway point on the other side of the hat. The interior of the hat is lined in black fabric, and there is an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chez Henriette".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955~
Creator: Lilyan Originals
Description: Hat of purple satin. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of purple satin with cluster of purple violets and an orchid of velvet. With a purple net veil. Lined in purple satin with a dark blue/purple grosgrain inner hatband. Accompanied by two short hatpins with matching purple velvet covered heads. Designer's label inside: "Lilyan / Originals"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955~
Creator: Henry's (Dallas, Texas)
Description: Hat of very pale green felt and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with slightly shaped crown embellished with scattered transparent gray beads, pearl beads, and rhinestones. Unlined. Inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955~
Creator: Frances & Walter Nelkin
Description: Hat of sequins and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped crown covered in iridescent sequins of light blues, with a large flower-head on either side embellished with pale blue and white sequins, gray bead, and pearls. The petals of the flowers extend below edge of crown. Overlaid with pale blue light mesh veil. Lined in lace. Designer's label inside: "A / Frances & Walter Nelkin / Hat", with a red sequin sewn in each upper corner of label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955~
Creator: Derrieux, Annabelle
Description: Hat of black felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low domed crown has a velvet-like appearance. At front, the edge turns up and back, and is covered with black seed beads. At right side is a group of 7" long fine black stripped feathers accented with 5 red wires. Unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inside headband: "Designed for you / by / Derrieux". Stamped inside of crown: "[coat of arms] / Ruth / Made in Czechoslovakia"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design