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 Country: United States
 State: California
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1940
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940/1944
Creator: Nugent, Grace
Description: Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940
Creator: Webb, Margie
Description: Hat of navy blue gabardine. Based on a modified top-hat design, the cylindrical soft crown is slightly "crushed". The brim, of the same material, turns up in front and down in back. At back of brim/crown is a navy blue faille bow with trailing ribbons. The crown is lined in white satin, and there is a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Attached inside crown at back is label: "Margie Webb designs / California Accessories".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Jacket

Jacket

Date: [1940..1949]
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Jacket of navy blue wool crepe. Asymmetrically trimmed with pleated band falling from right shoulder, secured with white buckle at waistline. Self belt at waist with matching white buckle. Long sleeved with pleated diagonal at lower right sleeve. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1940/1950
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material. The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe. Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original" The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1940~
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Skirt suit of brownish grey worsted wool in black, white, and warm grey. Jacket of self-worsted wool with notched collar and rounded lapels that extend beyond collar; open front trimmed in half-circle lapels at opening with brass disc button accents; 4 buttons on each side decreasing in diameter to bottom; wide, elbow-length sleeves with 3” cuffs; small shoulder pads within; fully lined in brown chiffon; waist-length. Skirt of matching self-worsted wool is gored with long reverse pleat at center-front surrounded by 2 shorter reverse pleats at each side; slight A-line; hits below knees. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Original customer label(?): "James L. Courtney"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: [1941..1946]
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Black wool two-piece skirt suit. A) Jacket. Just below hip-length, with center front opening with three hook-and-eye closures. Faux tie of same fabric at waist. Slight collar, and v-neckline. Thin orange/red inset line across front and up to shoulders. Long sleeves with inset orange/red panels along length of sleeves, with cording detailing and zipper closures at cuffs. Slit pockets just below waist. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of matching black wool. Street length. Possibly a replacement for the original skirt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: [1943..1945]
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Two-piece daytime skirt suit of Mexican homespun cotton consisting of: A) Jacket. Body of jacket is purple, long sleeves and collarless yoke of green, with a narrow band of rose inserted below yoke in front. Jacket has padded shoulders and is slightly fitted, and closes with hooks and eyes in front. Small string tie at waist. Fully lined in purple silk. Designer label inside: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt. Skirt is purple, below knee-length, of slim design flaring slightly. Was altered to lengthen, and then restored to original length. Side zipper closure, and waistband has snap and two hook-and-eye closures. No Labels. A hat was made to go with the suit by Henry's, Dallas, accession number 1967.002.003
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Beret

Beret

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Beret style hat of ochre colored chenille yarn. Retailer's label on inside crown: " Alexander & Oviatt / Los Angeles"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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