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 Country: United States
 State: New York
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Victor, Sally
Description: Calotte of black straw and black velvet. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a low, domed black velvet crown overlaid with a "pinwheel" made of large woven black straw triangles. At top of crown is a maroon velvet cord knot. Hat is lined in dark blue, with a dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Sally V / Designed by Sally Victor" Retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Fredericks, John
Description: Calotte style hat of brown straw cloth with brown veil. Left brim of hat circles to form a loop that folds under the right side of the hat. Designer's label with two set in rhinestones on inside of crown: "John Fredericks / New York" Vertical portion of designer's label: "Made in America"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Capulet Hat

Capulet Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Frederics, John
Description: Capulet style hat of red silk faille with 3 folds of self on either side. Red, slightly stiffened nose veil. Designers label: "MR. JOHN" Measurements: (Veil not included in measurements) L: 13 cm W: 49 cm H: 11 cm
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Cocktail dress of yellow and orange silk chiffon. Fitted bodice of horizontal, loosely pleated yellow chiffon has two orange, horizontal stripes at waist and above. Double, spaghetti style shoulder straps. Inner support with boning and petersham. Skirt is composed of under layers coral pink and yellow silk and outer layers of orange and yellow chiffon, creating a full appearance. Mid-length; zip-back and hook & eye closure. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1950
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Cocktail dress of dark navy blue silk satin. Strapless with fitted bodice. Open pleats over bust with mock bow and attached 14'' wide stole lined with silk organza which drapes over right shoulder and down back. Straight skirt with small inverted pleats at each hip bone, 23 1/2'' long from waist. Center back 24'' zipper closing with hook and eye at top and waist line. French netting, boned bustier with black grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye closure on inside. Skirt is lined to hip front and back with navy taffeta. Designer's label at center front bottom of bustier: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York, Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Hat

Cocktail Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Stone, Irene
Description: Hat of beaded, printed silk. The cocktail hat is of silk printed in an abstract foliage design in greens, reds, purples, yellows, white, and brown. It is heavily beaded, with small pale green square beads, oblong dark green beads, oblong and circular white beads, and tan flat sequins. All beads appear to be wooden. The crown is formed as an irregular dome, and has no brim. The hat is lined in gold cloth, and has two small plastic combs attached to either side of the inside of the crown to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Day dress in beige pesanté silk. Bias band collar extending into tubular tie with open hemmed ends. Tie graduates for 1/2 inch at center back collar to 4-1/4 inch at ends. Three 1 inch self-covered round buttons at bodice front. Piped button holes and 13 inch hidden zipper below. Bracelet length dolman sleeves. Back yoke. Street length. Two 8-1/2 inch x 8 inch hip patch pockets. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1950~
Creator: Simpson, Adele
Description: Day dress of olive green ground with small floral print in browns and creams. Street-length, with no collar and V-neckline. Slight gathers at sides of neckline. Short dolman sleeves with underarm gussets. Bodice is double-breasted, with self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes. A-line skirt, pleats/gathers at waistline. Lined in gold silk faille. Designer's label at left side seam: "Adele Simpson" Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" With matching contour belt of brown leather covered with same silk print. Rectangular buckle covered with same fabric. No labels/marks on belt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Daytime Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Daytime Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1950~
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of: A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City" B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1950~
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Dress of blue/gray silk satin or peau de soie, in shirtwaist style. Notched collar. Self covered button at center front with bound buttonhole. Waist seam; 3/4 length skirt with pleats on front and back of skirt. Half-length sleeves with self covered button, turn-back cuffs and bound buttonhole. Armhole princess seams front and back. Tucks on front and back bodice. Center back zipper. Lined in blue organdy with 1/2" blue grosgrain ribbon petersham. With belt of self-fabric forming a bow at center front with hook & eye and snap closure. Designer's label at center back seam below zipper: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1950/1955
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Evening gown of tobacco brown floral embroidered tulle embellished with sequins. Tulip or "mermaid" style full-length gown has spaghetti straps trimmed in single row of sequins and structured bodice. Empire waist. Center back zipper. Silk lining/attached slip. Cream grosgrain ribbon petersham at empire waist with two hook & eye closures. Stiffened at hem with matching tulle netting and horizontal bands of horsehair. Single label in gown with retailer and designer: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell", with "Dallas" in lower case.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1950/1954
Creator: Fath, Jacques
Description: Evening gown of black satin. Full length; skirt flares slightly. Fitted bodice with low neckline and 1" shoulder straps. Off-center front closure with six satin covered buttons reinforced with two snaps at the neckline and a hook & eye at the center of the opening; bound buttonholes. . Petersham of black, 1" grosgrain ribbon; unlined. Combined designer/manufacturer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Designed in America by / Jacques Fath / for Joseph Halpert / Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1969
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat made from white straw. The high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown flares out slightly at bottom into an asymmetrical brim. The hat is composed of bands of 10 strands of straw that are twined and platted and woven into shape. Decorating the hat are applied small 4-petaled silk flowers placed all over. At side is a thin bow of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined, but with an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is retailer's label, "Saks Fifth Avenue / Millinery Salon". Sewn to the back of the retailer's label is a Union Label, #DB 995583
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of straw and velvet. The short, cylindrical crown is of woven natural-colored straw, with off-center "peak". The crown is edged along top with a narrow band of orange velvet. The sides of the crown are covered in black velvet, and there is an inner band of black velvet-covered straw that extends below the sides of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. On the band, a small sewn start designates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made", and with a (later?) price tag attached. Accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered with woven straw matching the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Henry Pollak, Inc.
Description: Calotte style hat of black felt with rolled under brim. Cluster of back feathers along brim covered by black veil. Small bow of self. Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Glenover / Henry Pollak, Inc. / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Gladys & Belle
Description: Hat of sherry black straw (artificial?). Crown is flat-topped and cylindrical. The brim is turned up against the sides of the crown, and has a textured black vinyl bow applied at front. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of red straw. Conical crown is of woven red straw, with a flattened top. The wide, floppy brim is of matching straw, constructed as a separate piece, sewn to the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. A black cord is attached to either side at inner hatband to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc." Price tag affixed to inner band: "75 [cents symbol]"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat in the form of a modified turban. The slightly flattened conical crown is flat across the top, with a roll at top and bottom. The lower brim gently undulates, forming lower areas at sides. The whole is covered in gold braid, spirals of black and gold ribbon, various colored rhinestones and blue/green/opalescent beads. The hat is lined in black satin(?), with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Molli
Description: Hat of natural tan straw "lace". The low, domed crown is made of straw/fine wicker that has been worked as lace, in net and with various elements. At front the crown extends out in an undulating brim. Mounted at the base of the crown, on the front brim, is a large pink artificial rose with green leaves. Unlined, the hat has a black cord to help secure it to the wearer's head. Designer's label inside: "Paris / Molli / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Molli
Description: Hat of rust colored straw with curved brim wider in front and rolled in back. Green velvet ribbon trim. Tucked crown & tan silk lined brim. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Paris / Molli / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: McConnell, Jack
Description: Hat of gathered white net with small white flowers. Appearing somewhat as a turban, the hat has a conical crown of stiff netting which is completely surrounded by masses of gathered tulle net forming a dense "cloud", into which are placed tiny artificial white fabric daisies on small stems. Lined in a stiff patterned net edged with gold and cream braid. Sewn to inner braid is designer label: "Styled by / Jack McConnell / New York". With a pearl-headed hatpin.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Hat of shiny beige/light brown straw. Formed somewhat as a turban, the strands (approximately 50) of straw are wrapped and swirled around stiff net base creating a high, somewhat conical crown with an effect like a turban or a high-piled swirl of blond hair. Completely covered with beige veiling. Dark muted orange satin binding (1/2 inch deep) around edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner edge: "Christian Dior / chapeaux / Paris~New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1955
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of tan Balibuntal (Ballibuntl)straw trimmed with ribbon and greenery. The domed crown is of light tan Balibuntal straw, encircled with a wide pink satin ribbon with bow at front. The bow and front of the hat are accented with artificial leaves and stems. The irregular tan Balibuntal straw brim is set off-center to the crown, with undulating edge, with quadruple row of stitching at outer edge. The inside of the crown has an inner hatband of tan/off-white grosgrain ribbon. Designer's/Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Silverman, William
Description: Hat of natural straw. Circular straw crown, slightly domed, with black grosgrain ribbon around base and surrounded by shaped straw brim. Brim is rounded in front for about 2/3 of circumference, and bound up with red stitching at back to form three corners at back. All edges of brim turned-up and edged in black velvet ribbon. From above, brim shape resembles a baseball field. Inside of crown with black grosgrain inner hatband, to which is attached two black elastic cords to secure combs to help hold hat on wearer's head. At front of hat is stitched a small "F" on the inner hatband to show front of hat. Designer's label inside crown at inner band: "Wm Silverman / New York", with smaller logo-form tag sewn in under larger label: "Wm Silverman" with scissors, needle and thread.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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