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 Resource Type: Physical Object
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Purse

Purse

Date: 1775
Creator: unknown
Description: Purse of multicolored Bargello needlepoint. The envelope-style purse is covered in silk embroidery in greens, blues, reds, pinks, black, etc., in the Florentine Bargello, edged in green wool. On one side, under flap, is rectangular section with monogram FH and date 1775 worked in embroidery. Opens to reveal 2 separate compartments, lined in green homespun wool. Silk embroidery is disintegrating to reveal canvas ground.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Bonnet.

Bonnet.

Date: 1810
Creator: unknown
Description: Bonnet of blue silk. Brim is hand-quilted in square corners and curving lines that follow the shape of the brim in even lines. The brim is composed of 3 pieces of silk fabric, which are pieced together and then quilted. Cotton used as batting material throughout. The crown is entirely quilted in rows of horizontal stitching and radiating circles. The tail has L-shaped quilting, which echoes the front edge of the tail. The chin ties are striped silk ribbons. Some areas of fabric loss and shattering on bonnet and ties.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Ensemble

Child's Ensemble

Date: 1830~
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's dress ensemble of tan cotton with green and red/orange floral print consisting of: A) Skirt. Full length; pleated. One-inch waistband of muslin. Right side slit pocket. Center back opening; closures missing. Bottom of inside hem lined in brown glazed cotton; balance of skirt unlined. B) Bodice. Fitted with wide neckline; dropped shoulders. Neckline is trimmed with double row of fluted fabric of self. Short, puffed sleeves with caps trimmed with fluted fabric of same. V-shaped pleats in front. Center back opening closes with 9 hook & eyes. Lined in muslin. C) Fichu. Triangular panels of decreasing size applied to look like pleats. Four-inch epaulets of same with self-covered buttons at ends. Seven self-covered buttons down center back seam with evidence of three missing buttons. Lined in brown glazed cotton.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1830/1839
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of tan and blue braided straw. The hat has a wired brim and a grayish-white silk lining. It is trimmed in tan silk ribbon, and the bavolet, or back panel which shades the neck, is composed of brown, brick red, tan and blue striped cotton fabric. The ties are of brown silk taffeta and are attached to lower edge of brim with a herringbone stitch. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Christening Gown

Christening Gown

Date: 1850~
Creator: unknown
Description: Christening gown of white cotton muslin. Hand made and embroidered. Gathered waist trimmed in laisse anglais. Rounded neckline with V insert of eyelet lace. Eyelet trim at wrists, neck and hem. Scalloped insert panel down front trimmed in tatted eyelet with floral embroidery and six tiers of tatted eyelet. Center back opening is pleated with three covered buttons and drawstring at waist.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1850
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of off-white wool yarn and beads. Hat is based on a fanchon style, consisting of a knitted, somewhat diamond-shaped piece to fit across top of head and extending down sides to the ears with wide off-white silk ribbon ties at end of extensions. Unlike a regular fanchon, which is solely of a piece of flat lace, this cap has a deep pile of the same wool yarn over the entire surface of the cap, each piece tipped with a cylindrical frosted white bead.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mitts

Mitts

Date: [1850..1867]
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of black cotton lace mitts. The wrist-length fingerless gloves are of hand-crocheted lace, in a wide mesh. Slight frill at wrist, and separate thumb. A narrow black ribbon is threaded through the cuff, one ribbon lacking.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1850
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of black silk taffeta. The brim of the hat has 6 shirred hoops with deep padding in between, and a ruffled edge of the same fabric. At center back of neck, on the tail of the hat, is a flat bow of black silk taffeta, and the ties are of black silk taffeta ribbon. The crown is lined with brown glazed cotton fabric. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Crinoline

Crinoline

Date: 1860
Creator: unknown
Description: Off-white crinoline with spring steel hoops. Covered in fabric with white on white woven design of "H" shapes. Metal fastener at front of 1" wide waist band. First four rows of springs only go half-way around skirt and are tied around the body in front. Last five rows form complete circle or hoop. No labels in garment. Attached tag with what appears to be an auction lot number, "253".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Slippers

Wedding Slippers

Date: 1865
Creator: unknown
Description: Wedding shoes of off white kid leather. Designed with a square toe and throat, shoes have a large ruffled ribbon bow with tiny metal buckle set at top of toebox. Edge of upper bound with off-white satin ribbon. The low heel is of modified Cuban or Louis style, rounded at sides and back, covered in kid leather. Handwritten note: "My wedding slippers" S.S.D.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1870/1879
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding fan of bone and satin. Guards and sticks of bone, intricately carved with pierced latticework. Plain off-white silk satin leaf. Chased metal bail ring at pivot with mother-of-pearl beads. Off-white silk tassel tied to bail. Inscribed on silk leaf along one guard: "Hood W. [illeg.] / June 5th /73"; other inscriptions on other guard, too fragile to examine.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Girl's Dress

Girl's Dress

Date: 1870/1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Girl's dress of blue calico cotton with white print. Stand up collar. Inset waist with long, gathered skirt. Long sleeves gathered at wrist with drawstrings. Center front opening with 8 button closure. Bodice lined with what may be sugar sack fabric; skirt unlined. Skirt is 33" long with 22" waist.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Jacket

Jacket

Date: 1870
Creator: Worth, Charles Frederick, 1826–1895
Description: Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin. Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099).
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Dress

Child's Dress

Date: 1873
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's dress of black & tan woven cotton check/plaid. Full-length, with high, rounded collar. Set in black taffeta full-length sleeves with wide cuffs of the black/tan check, secured with two mother of pearl buttons each. Natural waist. Hem with wide band of ruffled black taffeta and a plain band of black taffeta running slightly above hem. Patch pocket at right hip composed of plaid panels formed as a "vest", with black taffeta ruffle filling in center, and three non-functioning circular mother of pearl buttons on slight curve following edge of "vest" front non-functioning opening. Center back opening with 9 circular mother of pearl buttons and hook & loop at neckline.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1874
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of ivory kidskin leather. The shoes, designed with slightly rounded toes, button closed along outer side, with 8 domed leather-covered buttons on each shoe. Edge along buttons is scalloped, as is the upper edge of the boot. The The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, and taper slightly to base. Left Shoe markings: "Excelsior"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Dress

Child's Dress

Date: 1875/1885
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's dress of tan flannel with front panel of brown velvet. Long sleeves with 3" cuff of brown velvet. Turndown collar of brown velvet with pointed ends and neckline trimmed in ivory lace; collar partially detaches on right and secures with a hook & eye. Patch pockets at sides of brown velvet. Front panel has 10 tortoise shell buttons to left of panel and right side opening of 11 matching buttons with barred buttonholes. Gored in back with six small pleats at bottom of back. Hem of garment has pleated 4-1/2" border of self trimmed with 1-1/2" band of brown velvet. Lined in tan cotton.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: [1875..1900]
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding fan with mother-of-pearl sticks and guards. Leaf of white needlepoint lace backed3with cream satin. Silver-colored "U" shaped bail ring at bottom.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Dress

Child's Dress

Date: 1876
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's dress of black wool with red paisley trim. Full length dress, with turned down collar of paisley print. Long sleeves with 4" cuffs trimmed in matching paisley print. Center front opening with 15 nonfunctional paisley covered buttons with hook & eyes underneath. Side pockets trimmed in paisley print. Center back panel is gathered at waist to give slight bustle effect and is belted in paisley print with oval buckle in black ribbed fabric. Lined in brown polished cotton.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: [1876..1890]
Creator: Mayer & Stern
Description: Pair of shoes of ivory kid leather. Rounded toes, with stitched detailing on tongues and with applied leather bow at instep with many "loops" creating large "poof". Shoes of ivory kid leather. Short, modified Louis heel covered with same leather. Stamped inside left Shoe: "Mayer & Stern/ Phila. / Centennial / 1776-1876"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Bag

Bag

Date: 1880/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag for afternoon or evening use. Frame of simulated tortoiseshell, carved and with openwork, with ball/snap closure and chain. Body of bag is of beige fabric with multi-colored petit-point embroidery of a bouquet of flowers. Floral motif on bag in grey, greens, blues, pinks and rose. Lined in rose ribbed silk, and contains a change purse and mirror. French or English in origin.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: [1880..1915]
Creator: Krippendorf, Dittmann & Co.
Description: Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with rounded toes, button closed along outer side, with 14 domed black glass buttons on each shoe. The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, and taper slightly to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "The Krippendorf / Dittmann Co. / Cincinnati" Stamped on sole: "3 36" Stamped inside: "36 3 14522"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boy's Suit (Jacket, Pants, and Shirt)

Boy's Suit (Jacket, Pants, and Shirt)

Date: 1880
Creator: unknown
Description: Boy's suit. Coat jacket of red wool. Black revers trimmed in black braid with sailor style collar. Long sleeves trimmed with black braid. Slit pocket at left breast with black braid. Ten black silk jacquard covered buttons. Lined in black silk. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas / Waco" Matching trousers of red wool with black trim on sides seams. Closure of black covered buttons at sides of waistband. Cotton interior waistband with buttonholes for securing shirt to trousers. Stamp on back left waistband (mostly illegible). Accompanying shirt of red silk front panel with ivory damask cotton back panel. Sleeveless. Shirt has ruffles down center front placket with 3 circular white decorative buttons. Pointed collar. Center back opening with 3 circular, white buttons and tailored buttonholes. Shirt has 7 additional buttons around hem which attach to trousers. Front panel lined in matching ivory damask cotton.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cape

Cape

Date: 1880/1890
Creator: unknown
Description: Burnoose-style cape of lavender wool flannel. Mid-skirt length front and back, rounded at bottom to be shorter on each side. Fitted at shoulders. Attached hood gathered around face by use of ribbon ties woven through satin bound buttonholes around border of hood (ribbon missing). Center front opening and hem are trimmed with wide band of pastel green cording in scroll design. Closure of matching satin ribbon ties at neckline. Lined in pastel green satin.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Dress

Child's Dress

Date: 1880~
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's dress of taupe cotton/silk trimmed in turquoise silk. Flair silhouette with dropped, pleated waist having hip belt effect, and pleats at hem and down center front. Center back opening with 7 turquoise silk covered buttons and tailored buttonholes. Short sleeves with lace at hem. Squared neckline. Lined in brown mercerized cotton.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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