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 Resource Type: Physical Object
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Purse
Purse of multicolored Bargello needlepoint. The envelope-style purse is covered in silk embroidery in greens, blues, reds, pinks, black, etc., in the Florentine Bargello, edged in green wool. On one side, under flap, is rectangular section with monogram FH and date 1775 worked in embroidery. Opens to reveal 2 separate compartments, lined in green homespun wool. Silk embroidery is disintegrating to reveal canvas ground. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499054/
Bonnet.
Bonnet of blue silk. Brim is hand-quilted in square corners and curving lines that follow the shape of the brim in even lines. The brim is composed of 3 pieces of silk fabric, which are pieced together and then quilted. Cotton used as batting material throughout. The crown is entirely quilted in rows of horizontal stitching and radiating circles. The tail has L-shaped quilting, which echoes the front edge of the tail. The chin ties are striped silk ribbons. Some areas of fabric loss and shattering on bonnet and ties. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29993/
Child's Ensemble
Child's dress ensemble of tan cotton with green and red/orange floral print consisting of: A) Skirt. Full length; pleated. One-inch waistband of muslin. Right side slit pocket. Center back opening; closures missing. Bottom of inside hem lined in brown glazed cotton; balance of skirt unlined. B) Bodice. Fitted with wide neckline; dropped shoulders. Neckline is trimmed with double row of fluted fabric of self. Short, puffed sleeves with caps trimmed with fluted fabric of same. V-shaped pleats in front. Center back opening closes with 9 hook & eyes. Lined in muslin. C) Fichu. Triangular panels of decreasing size applied to look like pleats. Four-inch epaulets of same with self-covered buttons at ends. Seven self-covered buttons down center back seam with evidence of three missing buttons. Lined in brown glazed cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501305/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of tan and blue braided straw. The hat has a wired brim and a grayish-white silk lining. It is trimmed in tan silk ribbon, and the bavolet, or back panel which shades the neck, is composed of brown, brick red, tan and blue striped cotton fabric. The ties are of brown silk taffeta and are attached to lower edge of brim with a herringbone stitch. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30282/
Hat
Hat of off-white wool yarn and beads. Hat is based on a fanchon style, consisting of a knitted, somewhat diamond-shaped piece to fit across top of head and extending down sides to the ears with wide off-white silk ribbon ties at end of extensions. Unlike a regular fanchon, which is solely of a piece of flat lace, this cap has a deep pile of the same wool yarn over the entire surface of the cap, each piece tipped with a cylindrical frosted white bead. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114811/
Mitts
Pair of black cotton lace mitts. The wrist-length fingerless gloves are of hand-crocheted lace, in a wide mesh. Slight frill at wrist, and separate thumb. A narrow black ribbon is threaded through the cuff, one ribbon lacking. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86986/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of black silk taffeta. The brim of the hat has 6 shirred hoops with deep padding in between, and a ruffled edge of the same fabric. At center back of neck, on the tail of the hat, is a flat bow of black silk taffeta, and the ties are of black silk taffeta ribbon. The crown is lined with brown glazed cotton fabric. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30079/
Crinoline
Off-white crinoline with spring steel hoops. Covered in fabric with white on white woven design of "H" shapes. Metal fastener at front of 1" wide waist band. First four rows of springs only go half-way around skirt and are tied around the body in front. Last five rows form complete circle or hoop. No labels in garment. Attached tag with what appears to be an auction lot number, "253". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87025/
Wedding Slippers
Wedding shoes of off white kid leather. Designed with a square toe and throat, shoes have a large ruffled ribbon bow with tiny metal buckle set at top of toebox. Edge of upper bound with off-white satin ribbon. The low heel is of modified Cuban or Louis style, rounded at sides and back, covered in kid leather. Handwritten note: "My wedding slippers" S.S.D. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114823/
Fan
Folding fan of bone and satin. Guards and sticks of bone, intricately carved with pierced latticework. Plain off-white silk satin leaf. Chased metal bail ring at pivot with mother-of-pearl beads. Off-white silk tassel tied to bail. Inscribed on silk leaf along one guard: "Hood W. [illeg.] / June 5th /73"; other inscriptions on other guard, too fragile to examine. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38052/
Jacket
Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin. Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29991/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of ivory kidskin leather. The shoes, designed with slightly rounded toes, button closed along outer side, with 8 domed leather-covered buttons on each shoe. Edge along buttons is scalloped, as is the upper edge of the boot. The The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, and taper slightly to base. Left Shoe markings: "Excelsior" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115018/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of tan flannel with front panel of brown velvet. Long sleeves with 3" cuff of brown velvet. Turndown collar of brown velvet with pointed ends and neckline trimmed in ivory lace; collar partially detaches on right and secures with a hook & eye. Patch pockets at sides of brown velvet. Front panel has 10 tortoise shell buttons to left of panel and right side opening of 11 matching buttons with barred buttonholes. Gored in back with six small pleats at bottom of back. Hem of garment has pleated 4-1/2" border of self trimmed with 1-1/2" band of brown velvet. Lined in tan cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501353/
Fan
Folding fan with mother-of-pearl sticks and guards. Leaf of white needlepoint lace backed3with cream satin. Silver-colored "U" shaped bail ring at bottom. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38032/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of ivory kid leather. Rounded toes, with stitched detailing on tongues and with applied leather bow at instep with many "loops" creating large "poof". Shoes of ivory kid leather. Short, modified Louis heel covered with same leather. Stamped inside left Shoe: "Mayer & Stern/ Phila. / Centennial / 1776-1876" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114765/
Bag
Handbag for afternoon or evening use. Frame of simulated tortoiseshell, carved and with openwork, with ball/snap closure and chain. Body of bag is of beige fabric with multi-colored petit-point embroidery of a bouquet of flowers. Floral motif on bag in grey, greens, blues, pinks and rose. Lined in rose ribbed silk, and contains a change purse and mirror. French or English in origin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30025/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with rounded toes, button closed along outer side, with 14 domed black glass buttons on each shoe. The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, and taper slightly to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "The Krippendorf / Dittmann Co. / Cincinnati" Stamped on sole: "3 36" Stamped inside: "36 3 14522" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86985/
Cape
Burnoose-style cape of lavender wool flannel. Mid-skirt length front and back, rounded at bottom to be shorter on each side. Fitted at shoulders. Attached hood gathered around face by use of ribbon ties woven through satin bound buttonholes around border of hood (ribbon missing). Center front opening and hem are trimmed with wide band of pastel green cording in scroll design. Closure of matching satin ribbon ties at neckline. Lined in pastel green satin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501296/
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of carved and pierced ivory (bone?)with a foliage designs. The white sheer organdy leaf is hand-painted with central vignette of a garden scene of a couple greeting a woman seated on a bench. The leaf with added hand-panted border of a garland of flowers. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has been in-expertly mended at some point previous to entering collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38048/
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of lightly carved ivory (bone?) with scrolling foliate designs. The leaf is of white lace. Sticks are unadorned on the reverse. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has alternately been identified as Irish lace or machine-made lace, and dated 1830's or 1880-1899. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38046/
Hat
Hat of green felt in the style of a tricorne or cocked hat. Trimmed with green silk roses, brown feathers, a brass buckle on right side and bow on back. Lined in black with central "drawstring". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277091/
Purse
Handbag with cast and chased silver frame decorated with openwork figures of children harvesting grapes. Ball/snap closure. Silver suspension chain of alternating oval links and links formed of three flower-heads. Bag is oval shaped, black wool with petite point embroidery decoration on each side of a bouquet of trumpet shaped flowers. Pink satin lining. Hallmarked "800" on frame. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277033/
Reticule
Reticule. Drawstring handbag/purse of black knit with openwork band along top through which drawstring is threaded. Running around center of bag are three horizontal bands of blue beads bordered by silver/gold lined beads. Lower part of the bag is completely covered by horizontal bands of silver/gold lined beads and blue beads. Bottom of bag with large sphere covered with blue beads from which hangs tassel of silver/gold lined bead loops. Unlined. Has been dated 1880-1890 or ca. 1916. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30063/
Pumps
Pair of plum purple satin pumps. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe, and plain uppers. The low heel is of a modified Louis or Cuban style, set in, and covered with matching fabric. Partly lined in white kidskin leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38992/
Fan
Folding fan with 17 bone sticks; white lace with round and clover leaf shaped silver sequins. Sticks carved with tiny flower and dot designs on 8 sticks and leaf and curly designs on 9 sticks. Back of fan is not decorated. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38096/
Wedding Slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of ivory kid leather. The shoes are designed with rounded toes, and have a large matching bow with layered ends, and a large ruffle of same across vamp. Uppers are edged with satin ribbon. Modified Louis or Cuban heel, flaring at base. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114887/
Bodice
Dress top/bodice of black silk brocade in "tree branch" geometric design with lavender silk vestee front over-laid with black point d'esprit in pattern of squares. Modified leg of mutton sleeve with black passementerie trim. Stand-up collar of matching lavender silk covered in black lace. Collar and vestee close on left with hook & eyes. Black fabric lining of bodice is boned and closes at center front with hook & eyes in which hooks and eyes alternate sides. 29" waist. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498989/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 13 holes high. At top of toe box is decorative seaming creating a "V" shape. The low, stacked heels styled as a modified Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering at center then flaring very slightly at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in cream cloth and black leather. Partly illegible retailer's(?) mark stamped inside uppers: "Linkhau... / Memphis Tenn" Handwritten notation inside uppers: "236 6788" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39028/
Capelet
Capelet of black silk satin. The short cape is trimmed along hem with 3-1/2" band of pleated organza and band of jet beads. Standing neckline trimmed in pleated organza. Center front opening with closure of five hook & eyes, with bow of black silk satin moire with trailing ends attached to right side of opening at throat. Shoulder yoke bordered in tightly gathered narrow band of black organza. Bright purple moire silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501286/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of navy blue calico with rose colored paisley print. Long sleeves with caps at shoulders. Empire waistline; full length. Standing collar trimmed with ivory lace. Center front opening with 6 circular brass, concave buttons with red painted centers decorated with silver circles and a star. Back panel in Watteau style and forms a small train. Upper part of dress lined in blue cotton with small white flowers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501313/
Deer Hoof Shoes
Pair of "Deer Hoof" shoes for bound feet. Tiny heeled shoes of dark navy silk, the uppers with multicolored floral embroidery at top and sides, and cloud-form patterns of couched gold thread around heels. Edged at top with blue silk ribbon. The shaped heels are of white leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461833/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38040/
Fan
Folding fan with tortoise-shell frame. Sticks and loop of tortoise shell; possibly for brise style fan; missing leaf or ribbon. Measurements: 39 cm extended; guard 21 cm long x 3 cm wide digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38047/
Hat
Day/house hat of creme silk. Wide, wired brimmed hat with gold stitching throughout. Wide, low crown with ruffled brim. Pink flowers under and above brim. Large bow of self at back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277174/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of light pink silk taffeta and feathers. The domed crown is totally covered by sprays of off-white ostrich feathers and pale pink veiling. At one side is a metal buckle with rhinestones. The wide brim is wired at outer edge and covered with the same silk. The whole is swathed in veiling which also hangs down to secure below face of wearer. Crown of hat is lined in off-white silk, the brim is lined with the same pink silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276989/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of black leather. Designed with pointed toes, the black leather uppers of the shoes are cut back at sides of vamp to create a "tongue" which is of pointed outline. Applied to vamp is an openwork stamped ornamental metal buckle simulating cut steel, with black patina. Modified Louis heel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114805/
Shoes
Pair of shoes. Black leather and tan suede uppers, leather at toe box and extending back, suede along heel and quarter. Cut-outs at vamp where suede and leather join. 2 1/4" high Louis XV style heel covered in tan suede. Marked inside left shoe: "240 / 8623 / 2675" Remains of gilt stamped label inside right shoe: "BENCH" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114766/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of brown leather. In the "Oxford" style, somewhat pointed toes, with decorative stitching across vamp and sides of upper near heel. Shoes lace up at center front, with 4 holes per side. Brown laces. Modified Louis heel, rounded at sides and back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114769/
Shoes
Pair of heeled shoes of ivory kid leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, rounded at the tips. Vamp with beading decoration in white/crystal beads in patterns of scrolls, laurel, stars, etc. Modified Louis heel covered in same leather. Retailer's label: "Made / for / Kahn's / in / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114965/
Slippers
Pair of party slippers of pale pink silk satin. Shoes have rounded toes, and wide self strap across instep, which secures with domed coral-colored button on outside edge. Strap, vamp, and upper edges of shoe are edged in slightly darker pink silk ribbon. 1 3/4" high modified Louis or cuban heel. Marked inside shoe: "3-C" (size?) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38985/
Slippers
Pair of lady's slippers of brown kid leather with jet beading. Designed with pointed toes, the uppers are of brown kid leather, heavily decorated with radiating patterns of jet beads, over toe, around sides and throughout openwork that decorates throat and sides of shoes. Originally had sewn-in ties across the instep. Lined in black leather. Soles of black leather. High heels are of modified French style, sometimes called "spool" style, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front. There are no marks or labels in the shoes. The brown ribbons in photographs are not original, are to hold the shoe closed in place of original ribbons, now missing. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39007/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of brown linen. Made of a plain weave with both white and brown threads, the hat has pasteboard staves within the brim, a crenelated buttoning crown and long tail. The crown and tail are separate pieces, sewn together at neck seam, with the tail fastening to the sides of the brim by 3 off-white buttons on each side. The tail is semi-circular in shape, and the narrow chin ties are hemmed by hand. Poke-style bonnets are generally those that have brims stiffened either through quilting or plain starched fabric. Sunbonnets that rely on staves for brim support are not considered poke-style sunbonnets. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30075/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of white cotton broadcloth. The hat has a square-shaped brim with an outer layer of off-white weave material with a plain-weave backing, and crocheted trim. The brim is thin and does not appear to contain much stiffening material or starch. The crenelated crown fastens to brim by a series of 9 buttons on top and 2 buttons on each side. The crown is trimmed with the same crocheted trim as is the brim. The crown and tail are of a made of a single length of fabric. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30065/
Wedding Boots
Pair of lady's wedding boots of ivory silk or satin. Designed with pointed toes, the short boots fasten up the outer sides of each shoe with eleven buttons. The button lining is of ivory leather. The remaining lining is of ivory cloth with the upper portion silk or satin. Natural light brown leather sole; Heels are in the style of a Louis heel, rounded at sides and back, concave and flaring slightly to base. Handwritten notation on inner lining: "59576". Stamped on sole near heel: "6587". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39010/
Wedding Shoes
Wedding shoes of off-white or champagne satin. The shoes have rounded toes, and no ornamentation. The medium-high heel is set under, is rounded at back and sides and curved at front, tapers to center and then swells to base, and is covered with matching satin; it has the same natural brown colored leather on the heel's cap and on the soles of the shoes. Stamped inside both shoes: "2 D13583" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39016/
Wedding Slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of off-white kid leather. The shoes are designed with a slightly pointed toe, rounded at tip, with large off-white satin rosette at vamp. Modified Louis or Cuban heel. Size 3B digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114836/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of white silk damask with embroidery in green, blue, and pink. Around throat and upper edge is band of green embroidered pine cones(?)and scallop band. At toe is embroidered blossom in pale pink and blue, with trailing branches in greens with leaves in greens and buds in pinks and butterflies in greens, pinks, and browns. Along sides are similar embroidered branches, leaves, buds, and blossoms. Throatline of shoe with black banding. At point of throat is applied 3-dimensional flower of silk ribbon. Inner sole of dark tan leather, insides of shoes lined with pink/beige silk(?). Soles of leather, with built-up or stacked 1 1/4" (3cm) modified louis or opera heels. Stamped inside shoes in red are various marks in Chinese(?), and maker's mark, which is mostly illegible. Shoes are of the type called "straight lasts" in western society - no differentiation between left and right shoe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38980/
Shoes
Shoes of ecru silk. Slightly pointed with rounded toe. Strap of self fabric across instep, fastening with button on outside of foot with rounded pearl-like glass button. 1 3/8" high Louis style heel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38984/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Cotton streamer ties. Channel stitching and eyelet lace ruffle on stiffened visor/brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87049/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton with eyelet brim, ruffles, apron. Rolled cording embellishment. Ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87050/
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