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 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Toque

Toque

Date: 1955
Creator: Arlett, Jean
Description: Hat of green straw. The toque style hat is formed of a high, cylindrical crown of woven green straw with raised outer rim at top and central shallow domed area. Around the shallow domed area is an acid-green woven ribbon band, tied with a bow with trailing ends at back of hat. Around the inside base of the crown is a band of the same woven ribbon which projects down slightly below the edge of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of green grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Exclusive / Jean Arlett / Creations".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1959
Creator: Arlington Hats
Description: Pillbox hat of royal blue velvet. The low, cylindrical crown has a flattened top with a self-covered domed button at top center, and one large horizontal "tuck" around the side forming two sections. The whole is overlaid with a navy blue net veil. Lined in black, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Maker's label inside: "Arlington / Hats / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1969
Creator: Armand, Jean Marie
Description: Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool. The short, A-line dress with shallow boat-neckline, short, cap-sleeves. Front and back of dress with diamond-shaped motif created by slot seams with cream background/under layer. Similar seaming across top of sleeves and joining diamond motifs around sides. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at neckline. Lined in off-white silk(?). Designer's label: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" Retailer's label: "Made in France especially for / Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1967
Creator: Armand, Jean Marie
Description: Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble from 1st collection. a) Coat of bright red/orange wool. Long sleeves and collared neckline. Double breasted with large, covered snaps on inside as closure. Two pockets formed from panels on coat. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" b) Dress . Bracelet length sleeves and jewel neckline. Knee length. Center front zipper. Hourglass shaped front panel forms pockets at left and right. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Asbury Millinery Co.
Description: Hat of black straw. The hat is formed as a wide, shallow domed crown, overlaid with "fringe" sewn in a dense spiral from the top center rosette, creating tiers/layers. Brimless, the crown rests on the head, with black straw covered arched bands to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label inside: "Lee Bury / Hats / of Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1952
Creator: Asbury Millinery Co. (Dallas, Texas)
Description: Hat of multi-colored straw. Based on a beret, the hat consists of a crown of finely woven straw in bands of dark blue, red, white, and dark blue. The crown is formed as a flattened sphere, surmounted by a small sphere of dark blue velvet. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Brand label sewn to inner hatband: "Lee Bury / Hats".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945
Creator: Bailey, Jo
Description: Hat of gray felt. The cylindrical gray felt crown is very slightly domed, and is set off-center to the brim. The brim, of matching felt, turns up, forming a deep, steep-sided bowl around the crown. The edge of the brim turns in, and is sewn down forming a seam around the inside edge of the "bowl". At left front of the brim is a bow of matching felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Stamped inside the crown: "Body made in Italy". Maker's hand-sewn(?) label affixed to inner hatband: "Jo Bailey / Hats".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945~
Creator: Bailey, Jo
Description: Hat of black velvet with cording detail. The domed crown is encircled at base with a band of black cord-work, with a bow at back with trailing ribbon. The circular brim turns up at edge, which is embellished with same cording as base of crown. Lined in ribbed orange red fabric, with a black grosgrain inner ribbon hatband, and with an elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's hand-sewn label inside crown: "Jo Bailey / Hats"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Bailey, Jo
Description: Pillbox hat of beige and bronze velvet. The low, circular crown of bronze velvet has inter-twined bands of bronze and beige velvet around it in a draped or swagged style. At front is applied a small bow made of the two velvets. Inner hatband of beige grosgrain ribbon. Affixed to the ribbon, one at each side, is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's hair. The hat is lined in green fabric. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1950/1969
Creator: Bailey, Jo
Description: Pillbox style hat of pink silk gabardine. Four horizontal pleats around front of brim form zigzag folds at sides. Slightly rounded top. Center back has hanging tab ending in tie bow of self. 2-1/4'' deep crown CF; 3 1/2'' deep CB. Lined in white silk with pink grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's label hand embroidered on inside crown: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Bailey, Jo
Description: Pillbox hat of striped fabric. The low-crowned cylindrical hat is covered in a gray fabric having red, green, black, white, and gold stripes reminiscent of a man's tie. Around the crown the fabric is pleated and draped, giving the effect of a low turban. Lined in a pink satin, with dusty rose pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Calotte hat of brown velvet. One hatpin with black, avocado shaped head. Brim and top center seam meet to form V-shaped opening. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Balenciaga Hats . Paris" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Coat, Tunic, and Pants

Ensemble - Coat, Tunic, and Pants

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1960
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Sundress

Child's Sundress

Date: 1956
Creator: Ballew, Joan & Skillman, Hope
Description: Child's sundress of horizontally striped blue, brown, and white cotton delusted satin. Rounded neckline, higher in front than back; sleeveless. Neckline and armholes piped in matching blue fabric. Left side closure with 5 buttons. Full skirt, gathered at waistline with blue piping. Tie belt of same fabric attached at sides and ties in back. Upper bodice lined of cream colored muslin. Maker's label at inside back neck: "Kate / Greenaway / Frock" Paper size tag behind maker's tag. Original Hope Skillman paper tag attached, with hand-written note identifying designer Joan Ballew.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1955
Creator: Bayh, Frederick Gibson
Description: Cocktail dress of large plaid orange, green, purple, and red raw and china silk. The dress is sleeveless, ankle-length, with red/orange raw silk halter-top bodice, "shawl" of same which is attached at mid-back and drapes over shoulders and across front. Lined in pale green. Skirt of dress is of silk, with large, plaid squares of reds, oranges, greens, and purples. Attached cummerbund style belt which buttons in back with 5 self-covered buttons and loops. Center back zipper Lined in light gold organza. Combined designer's/retailer's label at left side seam of lining near hem: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original" Accompanying petticoat formed of three full-length layers of red, purple, and green silk. Each layer with hem band of grosgrain ribbon in a different color, and each with deep net ruffle at hem, also edged with grosgrain ribbon. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes on 1" waistband. Combined designer's/retailer's label at center back waistband: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1983
Creator: Beene, Geoffrey
Description: Coat of black wool felt lined in cream wool. Street-length, with center front opening and no closures. Rounded high neckline, with no collar, but "corners" of opening flap open to form lapels showing the cream lining. 3/4 length dolmen sleeves with tapered extensions forming 7" "cuffs". Two slit pockets at hips in side seams. The coat appears reversible, but the placement of tags and lack of access to pockets from interior indicates otherwise. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Geoffrey Beene" Care label at inside right side seam: "Dry Clean / Only" Size label attached to Care label: "4" With accompanying black leather belt, with 1" wide sections at ends, and wide 3 1/2" wide "waved" shaped section at center back. Rectangular silver-colored buckle. Stamped on reverse: "4" "Geoffre / Beene" "1021"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1979/1980
Creator: Beene, Geoffrey
Description: Dress of olive green knit with long raglan sleeves. V-neckline with right side panel wrapping over to left and ending at left-front side. Skirt has panel wrapping over to right and ending at right-front side and creating a flap. Lower mid-length. Center-back zip closure with single gold plated button closure at back neck band. Padded shoulders. Unlined. Designer's label at back neckline: "Geoffrey Beene" Union label, cleaning instructions and size tag together at center back seam towards hem.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1985~
Creator: Beene, Geoffrey
Description: Dress of black net with white swirls. Short capped, raglan sleeves; bateau neckline. Swirls in shape of flowers at right shoulder. Knee length under layer; top layer 1" above under layer with slit from hem to chest on right side. Braiding around neckline extends across front and back left shoulder to form trailing ends to hemline. Slit pocket at right side seam of inner layer. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Geoffrey Beene / New York" Union label, "Dry Clean Only" and size "6" tags at bottom of interior pocket flap.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989
Creator: Beene, Geoffrey
Description: Dress of synthetic taffeta in black polka dots on white background. Scoop neck; knee length. Sleeveless; back of dress is halter cut. False attached vest with solid black knit insets, stitched in silver metallic thread and trimmed in silver metallic ribbon. Front of dress is black knit, V-shaped with curved flat pleats at each side of the V at waist. Center back hidden zipper. Lined ivory crepe synthetic (polyester?). Designer's label at center back to right of zipper: "Geoffrey Beene / New York" Size "6" tag, cleaning instructions and union label attached to base of zipper.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse and Pants

Ensemble - Blouse and Pants

Date: 1993~
Creator: Beene, Geoffrey
Description: Ensemble. Blouse/Top of black satin, slightly cropped, with short sleeves. Top is covered in sequins in wide horizontal black bands, red bands, and "plaid" band of bugle beads and smaller sequins. Wide red bands at sleeve ends. Pointed black satin collar and placket center front opening with 4 faceted, conical clear jeweled buttons. Lined in black satin. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Geoffrey Beene / New York" Pants of black synthetic fiber. Full-length. High waisted; higher at front than back. Slit pockets at sides, with large pocket flaps, with a matching jewel button at each lower corner. Center back zipper. Lined in black crepe. Designer's label at inside back waistband, near zipper: "Geoffrey Beene / New York" Size label: "4" Care label: "Dry Clean / Only" Union label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1980~
Creator: Beene, Geoffrey
Description: Ensemble consisting of: A) Dress of cotton/polyester blend knit in black, brown and white horizontal stripes. Collarless, rounded neckline; long sleeves. Below-knee length. Last 10" of hemline is silver and black lace with tan chiffon lining. Metallic silver trim at sleeve ends, neck and between fabric changes. Invisible center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined. Designer's label at center back to right of zipper: "Geoffrey Beene / New York" B) Jacket of silver and gold lace with black and silver ribbon trim in abstract floral patterns. Scalloped V-neck at center front opening with two globe/marble-like buttons and tailored buttonholes. Neck line, opening and sleeve hems trimmed in black and silver ribbon. Long sleeves with scalloped edges. Faux pocket flaps of black striped knit matching dress with silver trim. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Geoffrey Beene / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design