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Texas Fashion Collection
- Ensemble - Jacket, Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Hat
Ensemble consisting of:
A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom.
Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check.
Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos"
B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net.
Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos"
C) A-line skirt, street length, in black and white gingham cotton. Narrow waist of black grosgrain. Left side zipper. Lined in cream colored silk.
d) Contour belt covered in black and white gingham check. Square buckle covered in same. Three holes. Back in light tan leather.
Stamped: "Galanos Originals / Beverly Hills"
e) Hat of quilted black and white gingham check. Black satin headband ties in knot on right. Crown in smaller check than brim. Brim piped in black satin and slits at right beneath headband knot. Lined in alternating triangular sections of large and small gingham check.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Galanos / 935 (handwritten)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283773/
- Eveningn Dress
Evening dress of multi-layered yellow silk chiffon. The slim, full-length dress has a shallow, rounded neckline, and 3/4 length sleeves. The dress has a left side zipper and a 10" center back opening with 2 covered hook & eyes.
The dress consists of a complex layered structure. The innermost layer is of yellow silk from bust to hem, the middle layer of yellow chiffon, and the outer layer of yellow chiffon with hand painted stylized floral design of purple and teal roses with green sprays. The floral design is concentrated on center front of dress with one teal rose on upper right and single purple rose at bottom left of back.
Designer's label at left by zipper: "Galanos"
Retailer's label at right armhole: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501302/
Hat of woven orange balibuntl straw. Designed as a "mod" interpretation of a cloche, to be worn high on the head. The high, slightly domed crown flares out slightly at bottom to form the brim. The brim is split, with front section sloping downwards, and the back section upturned. Around the base of the crown is a wide navy blue plastic ribbon. Crown is lined in orange silk(?), and has an orange grosgrain inner hatband.
Designer's label inside: "Galanos". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330527/
- Mini Dress
Mini dress of chartreuse wool knit. Sleeveless with squared armholes; knee length. Princess seams with slit side pockets. Zipper closure at back left seam with hook & eye. Additional closure of 3 hook & eyes on left shoulder. Lined in matching silk crepe.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Galanos"
Retailer's label at left side zipper: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499052/
- Cartwheel Hat
Natural straw cartwheel or picture hat. The wide, slightly floppy, brim slopes up to the low circular domed crown. Around the crown is a black silk scarf attached in three places with black bows, with trailing section off of the back of the brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30000/
Hat of green velvet. The toque style hat is formed as a high, cylindrical crown of olive and light green velvet in a tiny checkerboard pattern. The entire crown, including flattened top, has a small green rhinestone set in each of the light green squares of the checkerboard. At the front of the hat is a bow of olive green velvet. The entire hat is overlaid with an olive green veil/netting. The hat is lined with green satin, and has an inner hatband of dark olive green grosgrain ribbon inside the base of the crown.
Sewn to the inner hatband is manufacturer's label: "Paris / Gardner / New York".
The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39193/
Coat of natural beige mohair wool. Below-knee length, with modified cape collar with rounded ends. Loose, unfitted lines. Single breasted, with three button closure at neckline and bound buttonholes. Sleeves are 3/4 length, large and intricately cut in an adaptation of the leg-o-mutton style with pleating at shoulder, and have pleat-form at wrist to create calla lily effect . Double welt angled side pockets. Lined in black jersey wool.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501318/
- Coat and Pillbox Hat
A) Evening coat of forest green wool. Double breasted, with six large buttons having black faceted edges and green pearled centers, and bound buttonholes. Collarless, with black soutache braid outlining neckline and front opening. Loose fitting with very full, bell-shaped, elbow length sleeves pleated into dropped shoulders, faced with green wool part-way back into sleeve. Double welt, angled, slit pockets at sides. Lined in green silk.
Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
B) Pillbox hat. Of matching forest green wool, the low, cylindrical crown is edged in double row of matching black soutache braid which crosses on right and is trimmed with small sphere covered in matching wool. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and black elasticized band for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in black silk(?).
Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501367/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of white rayon jersey. Cocktail length. Strapless with attached scarf across right shoulder which falls down the back. Dress is constructed of two layers with the outer layer fully ruched. Left side zipper closure with hook & eye. Unlined with four internal white grosgrain petershams at zipper.
Designer's label at center back: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501329/
Hat of off-white fur felt. The crown of the hat is shaped as low, domed tear-drop, the point curving down along the back of the wearer's head. The tightly rolled brim follows the shape of the crown, and creates a "tail" at back of head. The hat has an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband, and a black elastic back-strap to help secure it to wearer's head. Accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching felt.
Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461864/
Hat of brown/burnt ocher fur felt. The hat is designed with a low, domed, saucer-shaped crown set into the wide, downwards-curving bowl-shaped brim of same material. The hat rests on the head with an inner ring which extends down from crown, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. At sides are black grosgrain covered clips to help secure hat to wearer's head, and a black elastic strap to secure hat around back of wearer's head. With two hatpins, the heads covered with matching fur felt.
Designer's label inside: "Eleanora Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461876/
Mushroom hat of red strawcloth and tucks on four corners. Interior headband covered in same to secure hat to head.
Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39146/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of two pieces:
A) Trench coat; little black slip dress laminated within clear plastic trench coat; slip dress has spaghetti straps, and lace trim at upper bodice and hem; trench coat has double breasted front opening; notched collar; buckles at wrists; slanted pocket lapels at hips with no pockets.
Designer's label molded into plastic: "Gaultier / Pairs"
B) Dress of pale pink chiffon with shadowing, and sequin and bead embellishments which create a realistic “nude woman" figure; sleeveless; full-length.
No label in dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330478/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of black straw. The hat has a broad brim of woven black straw with an upturned outer edge which is trimmed in black velvet. The low, domed crown is also of woven black straw, with a band of black ostrich feathers around the base of the crown. One large ostrich feather plume attached to base of crown and extends out and over the back of the brim. Inside crown is black cloth lining.
Sewn inside crown is black cloth label: "Mme Georgette / 11 Rue Scribe / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402502/
- Body Suit With Tunic
Ensemble consisting of two pieces. Base garment is a light green knitted silk jersey bodysuit with over-length sleeves and legs. Zipper closure from throat to lower back at center back, with one hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Over the bodysuit is a tunic/tabard formed of two long rectangular panels of black silk with white printed polka dots all over. There are thin "straps" simulated at shoulders where panels meet, and a slightly rounded neckline. The panels are sewn at left side for 17 cm. below arm and open the rest of the length. On right side are three snaps and one hook-and-eye closure. The left shoulder is sewn shut, while the right side opens with hook-and-eye closure. The panels are lined in shocking pink silk.
Label in bodysuit: At inside left back, just beside zipper: "Rudi Gernreich".
Labels in tunic/tabard: At back inside, just below neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"; At front inside, just below neckline: "Rudi Gernreich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30029/
- Day Dress
Day dress of red and purple printed wool knit. Knee-length or slightly below, the dress has a fairly deep rounded neckline and long set-in sleeves. Skirt is gathered at slightly dropped waist. Dress has a center back zipper, and is unlined.
The dress is made of of areas of print. The bodice and upper part of the skirt has a geometric print of purple diamond/parallelagram shapes on red ground. The sleeves and lower part of the skirt have a print of large purple squares on red ground, forming a checkerboard pattern.
Center back lapped zipper. Unlined.
Designer label: "Rudi Gernreich design for / 10 Harmon Knitwear"
Care label: "Dry Clean / Only / 100% wool" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501304/
- Day Dress
Floor length day dress. Long sleeves with gathered opening at bottom of sleeve. Bodice of brown wool ribbed knit with kimono style sleeves and gusset at underarm. Brown ribbed knit stops on sleeves above elbow. Bottom of sleeve out of wool jersey knit in brown and purple rectangular checked pattern. Rounded neckline. False layered effect at neckline out of same brown and purple rectangular checked print. Skirt gathered at waistline and constructed of wool jersey knit in large brown and purple checked pattern. Center back lapped zipper closure.
Designer label: "Rudi Gernreich design for / Harmon Knitwear"; "14"
Care label: "Dry Clean / Only / 100% wool"
With belt of brown wool ribbed knit. 1 1/4 inch wide. Silver colored metal cap finishes one end, while silver colored metal adjustable buckle is on other end.
Engraved in metal buckle "SOLID BRASS / made in / USA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501292/
- Evening Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Evening ensemble of heavy pink Alaskine silk/wool blend, consisting of a jacket and dress.
The jacket is a cropped, bolero style, with rounded neckline and short sleeves. It has a center front opening with single hook-and-eye at throat. The sleeves, neckline, opening, and hem are edged in band of pink and crystal beads and rhinestones. Scattered over the surface of the jacket are clusters of pearl, crystal, and silvered beads. The matching dress is full-length, with an Empire waist. It is sleeveless, with very slight scoop at front neckline, and a deep rounded scoop to mid-back at back.The straps are heavily beaded with pink and crystal beads and rhinestones. The 4-gore A-line skirt gathers slightly into bodice. The dress has an inner pink nylon(?) sheath lining.
The jacket labels are: Retailer's label: "R.S.V.P. / Neiman-Marcus"
Designer's label, underneath retailer's label: "Gino Charles"
Size label: "8"
The dress labels are: Designer's label: "Gino Charles"
Origin label: "Made in the British / Crown Colony of Hong Kong"
Size label: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402501/
Coat of intricate patchwork of Prince of Wales wool plaid, wool hounds tooth, wool petit point, all-over embroidered with pewter metallic floral vines. Knee length. Simulated double breasted, off-center opening with hidden placket button closure; notched collar. Long sleeves with 6 functioning button closure at wrists. Two flap pockets with welts at each front hip with lapels; pockets not open. Knee-length. Fan pleating at back. Fully lined in gray silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Givenchy / Haute Couture" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402522/
Coat in trench style of burgundy satin with burgundy dyed fox fur trim on shawl collar and cuffs. Full-length; center front opening. Vertical side welt pockets. Lined in black silk. With tie belt of burgundy satin, 1 1/2" wide; top-stitched.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Fourrure / Givenchy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501323/
- Cocktail Hat
Cocktail hat of black velvet. The hat has a high, cylindrical crown with flattened top, and a wide brim which curves downwards. Around the base of the crown is tied a wide piece of black net veiling, with bow at back. The veiling "pools" on the sides and front of the brim, and then extends down to cover wearer's face. The brim is lined with the same velvet, while the crown is lined in black satin, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330445/
- Cocktail Suit - Dress, Underskirt, and Jacket
Three piece cocktail suit of black quilted silk damask consisting of:
Sleeveless tunic overdress, knee-length, constructed as an "apron", with back opening which overlaps and secures with three covered buttons. Dress is sleeveless, with rounded neckline, slightly raised waist, princess seaming, and skirt which is slightly flaring at hips and then becoming tubular.
Underskirt skirt, with wide hem of the same damask which extends 8 inches below hem of dress, creating a layered look.
Matching jacket with Bermuda collar, double breasted with three double rows of braided buttons and
straight bracelet-length fitted sleeves.
Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris"
Handwritten label underneath designer's label: "28554"
Costumer's tag: "Don. Mrs. Audrey Hepburn" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501357/
- Evening Dress, Purse, and Shoes
Gold patterned evening dress with jacket, shoes and clutch.
A) Jacket: tailored, cropped shell in peacock eye, gold metallic brocade with red and mauve highlights. Jewel neckline with full-length set-in sleeves. The neckline and cuffs are embellished with wide bands of gold cord, gold beads and large gold, yellow and red rhinestones. Fully lined in gold silk. Shoulder pads.
B) Dress: Fitted, slightly dropped waist, sleeveless bodice with scooped neckline and low plunging back. Centerback zipper closure with a single hook & eye at the neckline. Slightly dropped waistseam with full, gathered, pouf skirt. The skirt has an asymetrical hem falling from knee-level centerfront to mid-calf centerback. Sideseam hip-level pockets. The bodice piece lined with gold chiffon. Waist stay of gold silk.
Bust pads. The skirt is self lined with a rolled and poufed hem. There is a large tuck in the skirt lining, possibly from an alteration.
Label: "Givenchy / Made in France"
C-D) Shoes: matching gold brocade, high heeled pumps. Tan leather soles. Gold leather lining with stamped label in instep.
Label: "Rene Mancini / Paris / Fait Main"
E) Clutch: matching gold brocade envelope clutch with magnetic clasp closure. Pleated accents on flap. Gold interior clips for chain. Ivory silk faille lining with patch pocket.
Label: Rene Mancini. Paris. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30251/
Hat of black velvet and satin. Black satin oval skullcap with rolled black velvet brim. Fully lined in black satin. Black grosgrain ribbon headband. Narrow elastic chin strap.
Designer's label stitched at center back headband: "Givenchy / Houvelle Boutique" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283724/
Hat of black velvet. Resembles the style of a ladies riding hat. Low, flat crown with narrow rolled brim. Chenille dotted mesh veil. Wide, black satin ribbon hatband. Fully lined in black satin. Black grosgrain ribbon headband.
Designer's label stitched at center back headband: "Givenchy / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283681/
Hat of gray suede. Designed as a modified fedora, the high, domed crown is lightly creased from front to back, and is encircled at its base by a narrow hatband of the same suede, with trailing ribbons. The medium-width brim is of the same suede, and slopes slightly to the outer edge. The brim is lined in the same suede, while the crown is lined in black fabric, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330392/
Hat of navy blue jersey knit. Styled as a bowler, the hat has a domed crown encircled at the base by a narrow hatband of same knit. The narrow, rolled brim is of the same fabric, curving up around the crown. The brim is lined in the same fabric; the crown is lined in a dark blue fabric, and has a dark blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330509/
Hat of cobra skin. The hat is designed with a cylindrical crown, flattened at top, encircled by a narrow hatband of same snake skin. The circular brim slopes downwards. The underside of the brim is lined in cobra, while the crown is lined in brown fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330338/
Hat of blue gabardine. Roughly cylindrical soft crown, able to be creased somewhat, with flat top. Encircled at base by band of same blue gabardine, with flat, wide bow at left side. Brim of same, extending out and downwards at gentle angle. Edge with wide top-stitched band as outer border. Crown is lined with dark blue, and with dark blue gray grosgrain inner hatband.
Designer's label on inner hatband: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330405/
Hat of light navy blue felt. Brimless, the hat has a domed crown, sloping gently at front and more steeply at back, with slight "under-cut" at back and back of sides. The edges of the hat extend under and back towards crown, creating a "under brim", which gives the illusion that the hat is "floating" above the wearer's head. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and a short length of grosgrain ribbon across inside front of crown to help hat keep its shape.
No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330436/
Hat of black velvet. Styled as a modified Breton hat, the tall, cylindrical crown is gently domed, and encircled by the wide brim, which extends out and turns up to vertical. The "underside" of the brim is faced with the same black velvet. The crown is lined in black silk(?) satin, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label on inner hatband: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330363/
Hat of cinnamon brown broadtail fur. The hat is designed as a shallow cone-shaped crown, covered with broadtail fur, the edges of which roll under and up into the inside of the crown. The hat is lined with a bronze/brown slightly iridescent fabric, and has inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label on inner hatband: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330513/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of multicolored printed silk. The low, cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and is encircled by the wide, flat brim. The hat is covered in silk printed with a floral print of purple, pink, white, blue, olive, and green on black ground. The underside of the brim is lined in the same fabric, while the crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330418/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black jersey. The cylindrical crown has a flat, slightly recessed top, and bands of black silk ribbon decoration applied horizontally around sides. Upper and lower bands are of plain layered ribbon forming slightly molded bands, while central band is of twisted/folded/worked ribbon creating a dimensional braided pattern. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband and a single small faux turtle shell comb to help secure it to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305376/
- Skirt Suit
Suit of navy blue wool with window pane plaid in white.
a) Jacket of navy blue wool in window pane plaid in white. Double breasted with circular, blue buttons. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Fully lined in navy silk.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Givenchy / Made in France"
(b) Skirt of same fabric. Thigh down is pleated. Upper skirt is lined in navy silk. Left side zipper.
(c) White blouse of heavy silk. Neck has extra fabric to tie a bow or knot. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283742/
Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots.
Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France".
This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076)
Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30166/
Sleeveless coat of navy on white zebra printed wool. The street-length coat is of slight A-line, widening to hem. It has wide straps, no collar, and center front opening with 5 circular dark blue plastic buttons. At each hip is a patch pocket with simulated flap, the fabric of the pockets chosen to match the placement on the print. The coat is fully lined in navy fabric. Inside neckline at back is designer's label "Givenchy", folded so that "Made In / France" is not visible.
This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a blue wool jersey knit top and slacks. Donor noted that it was "Made for Monte Carlo for day wear". There is also a hat that was worn with the ensemble (1978.013.062) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30151/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of black silk gazar. The halter-style neckline of the dress ends in straps at center back of the fitted, dropped-waist bodice. The skirt is a semi-full, gathered, mid-thigh length. There is a boned inner bodice of black silk tulle with bust pads, grosgrain bust and waist stays fastening with hooks-and-eyes, an elaborate closure involving halter drape and inner and outer zippers down the left sideseam and five snaps that secure the halter panel and disguise the zipper. Fully lined in black chiffon.
Label stitched on right side of inner bodice "Givenchy" and "Made In France". Underneath Givenchy label is sewn-in tape with hand-written note: "80 945" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30253/
Dress of red satin and black velvet. The above-the-knee length dress has a fitted princess-line bodice with dropped waist and V-neckline. The long sleeves have moderate puff at shoulders, and wrist closure with four red satin covered buttons on each wrist. The turned-back cuffs are of black velvet, as is the wired, rolled collar. The full skirt gathers at the waistline. There is a center-back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at neckline, and the collar detaches to accommodate the opening. The dress is fully lined in red chiffon, with bust pads and hip stay band which fastens at center back with hook-and-eye. Designer's label is sewn inside at right side near armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France". Underneath the designer's label is sewn a second label with hand-written notation "80535". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30247/
Evening dress of blue silk gazar. The full-length dress has a fitted bodice simulating a wrap style, with V neckline, and long straight sleeves with 5 fabric buttons at each wrist. The skirt has an asymmetrical peplum with an inverted opening in front that is equal to the floor length A-line skirt, giving the effect of an over-skirt pulled back to reveal an underskirt. At back is a zipper closure from neckline to below hips, with a series of snaps at the top of the peplum. The dress has an accompanying leather belt covered with the same blue silk gazar. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30275/
Dress and belt. The dress has an empire-length bodice of white organdy with short sleeves, deep V-neckline in front and shallow boat neckline in back and is densely beaded with large and small white beads. From the lower edge of the beaded bodice a band of blue silk satin with a printed pattern of different sizes of white polka dots extends down to dropped waist length, covering the midriff. The full skirt, of the same polka dot material, is above-the-knee length, and has box pleats which start from the dropped waist level. The dress has a zipper closure along the left side seam of the midriff section, and the closure continues up along the lower part of the empire bust line seam to the base of the V-neckline with a series of alternating covered snaps and hook-and-eyes. The bodice section is lined with white organdy, the midriff section with blue silk, and the skirt is unlined. Designer's label is sewn inside bodice near right armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France", with a second label sewn underneath with handwritten notation "80932". The dress has an accompanying belt covered with matching blue fabric with printed polka dots and backed with black leather. The buckle is also covered with blue polka dot fabric. The belt has no labels or marks.
Not shown in photo are matching high-heeled pumps by Rene Mancini, Pairs, and matching envelope clutch handbag also by Mancini.
From Givenchy's Spring 1992 Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30252/
- Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246"
This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972.
The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must look like the light shining through the stained glass windows of the Chapel."
The ensemble has a matching pair of shoes by Roger Viver made of fabric in the same print. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30152/
- Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30274/
- Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket of brown and white printed silk plaid or tartan. The waist-length jacket has a turn-down collar and wrist-length sleeves. It is single-breasted with a center front opening with four large circular brown plastic buttons and piped buttonholes. The jacket is fully lined in off-white silk. Designer's label located inside below center back of collar: "Made in / France / Givenchy". The matching dress is mid-length, to just below the knee, with round neck and princess seaming. It is sleeveless, and has box pleats at lower part of skirt. There is a zipper closure at left side. The dress is lined with off-white silk throughout with the exception of the box pleated area. Designer's label at inside side seam near right armhole: "Givenchy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30165/
- Evening Dress
Cream silk jersey evening dress / ballgown with beaded decoration and matching belt.
A) Full-length gown, bodice embellished with hand-embroidered stylized leaves/buds in cream on a ground of silver, green, and mauve beads. Shoulders and thin collar with solid fields of beading. Short, wide sleeves edged with silver and clear beads. Center back opening with hook-and-eyes at top and bottom, no closure along mid-back. Plain cream silk jersey skirt, gathered into waist. Closure at right hip, with band of hook-and-eyes along back waistline, and series of hidden snaps down from waistline. Bodice lined in silk gauze, skirt lined in heavier cream silk. Inner grosgrain ribbon waistband with hook-and-eye closure.
Designer's label at inside waistband: "Givenchy"; under designer's label is hidden design/style # tag with handwritten notation: "54783"
B) Belt of cream silk gauze-backed silk jersey, 2" wide x 30" long, completely covered in beading matching bodice. Hook-and-eye closure at ends. No marks/labels on belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87027/
- Evening Suit
Evening suit of black velvet. The ensemble consists of a jacket of black velvet with machine embroidered vine and floral motifs in black threads and black beads. The coat has a notched collar, long sleeves with wide cuffs and two non-functional buttons on each sleeve, and two non-functional pockets at front. Center-front opening with two circular black satin-covered buttons. The lapels, cuffs, and pocket flaps are all of black satin. The knee-length skirt of of the same fabric, with satin waistband. Short zipper closure at side with two hook-and-eyes in waistband.
Designer's label inside jacket at collar: "Givenchy", with model number written on cloth tape sewn underneath label: "74075" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30268/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of rose, blue and gold brocade. The ensemble consists of a jacket, skirt, and belt, all of the same "peacock eye" design brocade, of blue and gold on a rose pink ground.
The hip-length jacket is a tailored shell with round neck and set-in full-length sleeves. It has a full-length center front opening which secures with a series of five snaps covered in rose-colored chiffon. The neckline, opening, cuffs, and hem are trimmed with a two lines of dark rose silk cord embellished with spiraled lines of red, gold, and blue bugle beads. The lines are 6cm. apart. The jacket is fully lined in rose colored silk, and has built-in shoulder pads.
Sewn inside jacket at back collar is designer's label: "Givenchy", with a second label sewn underneath, which has a handwritten notation: "79461".
The matching fitted skirt is above-the-knee length, with a 3.5 cm. wide waistband into which the skirt gathers. Zipper closure at left side, with two large hook-and-eyes in waistband. The brocade is lined in white chiffon, and there is an inner lining/half-slip of dark rose colored silk. There are no labels in the skirt.
The belt is leather-backed, and faced with the same brocade. The rectangular pink and green rhinestone set buckle is non-functional, with a pair of hooks behind to catch in the metal-rimmed belt holes. There are no labels/marks on the belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283711/
- Sunburst Dress
Black "sunburst" evening dress with bustle. The fitted, full-length sheath is of black silk satin with black velvet "sunburst" motif repeated over the dress. The gown is strapless, with diagonally draped over-panels that meet at center front and form a large bow which tilts up to cover the left shoulder. There is a zipper closure along the left sideseam with hook-and-eye closure at neckline which is concealed by the bust panel, which is snapped to the dress and bow. The back waistline seam has a three-tiered ruffled bustle which has a snap at left side to accommodate the zipper. The skirt flares from knee to hemline. There is a boned black silk inner bodice with bust pads and bust and waist stays. The inner bodice has a zipper closure at left side, just inside the outer zipper.
Designer's label inside garment, stitched over right side bone: "Givenchy / Made In / France".
Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows the gown as displayed with a hat by Balenciaga (Accession #: 1981.022.026). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30250/
Beret style hat of navy and white woven straw. Ribbon flower hangs off side of hat with small flag of orange grosgrain ribbon on top of stem. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon with extension at back of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined.
Designer's label at inside headband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York"
Retailer's label at inside headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87047/
Hat of light mustard colored wool felt. Wide crown and narrow, asymmetrical brim; rolled under with black felt lining under brim. Hatband of black velvet covered in black net trimmed in two rows of large, black sequins with rhinestone centers. Black velvet bow at back and hatpin with oblong shaped, black glass head. Unlined.
Label sewn to inner hatband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114917/