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 Country: France
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Suit

Suit

Date: unknown
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Suit of rose, blue and gold brocade. The ensemble consists of a jacket, skirt, and belt, all of the same "peacock eye" design brocade, of blue and gold on a rose pink ground. The hip-length jacket is a tailored shell with round neck and set-in full-length sleeves. It has a full-length center front opening which secures with a series of five snaps covered in rose-colored chiffon. The neckline, opening, cuffs, and hem are trimmed with two lines of dark rose silk cord embellished with spiraled lines of red, gold, and blue bugle beads. The lines are 6cm. apart. The jacket is fully lined in rose colored silk, and has built-in shoulder pads. Sewn inside jacket at back collar is designer's label: "Givenchy", with a second label sewn underneath, which has a handwritten notation: "79461". The matching fitted skirt is above-the-knee length, with a 3.5 cm. wide waistband into which the skirt gathers. Zipper closure at left side, with two large hook-and-eyes in waistband. The brocade is lined in white chiffon, and there is an inner lining/half-slip of dark rose colored silk. There are no labels in the skirt. The belt is leather-backed, and faced with the same brocade. The rectangular ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunburst Dress

Sunburst Dress

Date: 1990
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Black "sunburst" evening dress with bustle. The fitted, full-length sheath is of black silk satin with black velvet "sunburst" motif repeated over the dress. The gown is strapless, with diagonally draped over-panels that meet at center front and form a large bow which tilts up to cover the left shoulder. There is a zipper closure along the left sideseam with hook-and-eye closure at neckline which is concealed by the bust panel, which is snapped to the dress and bow. The back waistline seam has a three-tiered ruffled bustle which has a snap at left side to accommodate the zipper. The skirt flares from knee to hemline. There is a boned black silk inner bodice with bust pads and bust and waist stays. The inner bodice has a zipper closure at left side, just inside the outer zipper. Designer's label inside garment, stitched over right side bone: "Givenchy / Made In / France". Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows the gown as displayed with a hat by Balenciaga (Accession #: 1981.022.026).
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse and Pants

Ensemble - Blouse and Pants

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Grandval, Martine
Description: Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants. The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes. The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style. Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France". The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1959
Creator: Heim, Roger
Description: Cloche hat of tan milan straw. The high crown is slightly dished, and narrows to brim, with wide band of tan/very pale green grosgrain ribbon at base with large "bow" at side. The straw brim is down-turned. The crown has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Roger Heim / Made in France Paris", and retailer's ribbon sewn just above designer's label: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1965/1969
Creator: Jourdan, Charles, 1883-1976
Description: Pair of black suede boots. Over-calf-height square-toed boots lace up front, with 3 rows of eyelets at bottom and 15 hooks above. Block heel is covered in black suede. Lined in off-white kid leather and with a rubber and leather sole. Impressed in rubber sole: "Made in France". Stamped on lining inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "8 1/2 2A 468069 LE"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Platform Lace-Up Sandals

Platform Lace-Up Sandals

Date: 1970
Creator: Jourdan, Charles, 1883-1976
Description: Pair of platform sandals. Silver leather covered black plastic(?) sole with silver metal lace and cords. 4" spike set-back heel. Marked in relief on sole of each shoe: "Made in France". Anonymous gift to the Texas Fashion Collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Platform Sandals

Platform Sandals

Date: 1970
Creator: Jourdan, Charles, 1883-1976
Description: Pair of platform sandals. Shoes have gold kid leather upper, the vamp knotted. Black patent leather covered soles and heels. 4 1/4" high block-style set-back heel. Written on inside of back strap on each shoe: "5 1/2 B 342440". Stamped on each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1970/1983
Creator: Jourdan, Charles, 1883-1976
Description: Pair of deep wine red leather pumps. Shoes have a V-throat on vamp and are edged with thin bands of taupe leather around vamp and along outside panel ending in a triangular shape. 3 1/2" Continental set-back heel almost a stiletto, but wider and more oval in cross-section. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "Orient". Stamped inside each heel: "39 B / 63586 E". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Legroux Soeurs (Paris, France)
Description: Hat of gray fur felt. The low, rounded crown is made of gray beaver(?) fur felt over a structure of woven straw. Brim is of same felt, and appears narrow in front, but rolls under and extends back under crown. At sides and back, brim curves upwards, and then back downwards to extend under crown. Along sides and back of crown is section of gray grosgrain ribbon which projects through the upturned brim at back and becomes a large bow with trailing ends. There is an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the edges of the brim where they meet the inside base of the crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head, and attached to the front brim underside is a plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Legroux Soeurs / 4 Rue Cambon Paris / Made in France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boater

Boater

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Marché Hats
Description: Boater-style hat of off-white straw. The whole hat is of straw woven into shell-shaped segments, connected to form the body of the hat. The cylindrical crown has a flat top, and is encircled at the base by a black velvet ribbon. At either side of the crown are large black velvet bows. The flat, oval brim follows the outline of the crown, and is partly overlaid by a fine black mesh veil with long, trailing ends that are long enough to tie under the wearer's chin. The underside of the brim is edged in black velvet, and there is a black velvet strap which extends down from either side to help secure hat to wearer's head. The hat is lined with a fine white mesh, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Labels sewn into inner hatband: "Marché Hats / Paris New York"; Also sewn into inner hatband is second label, "Consumers' Protection Label / 784619". Hand-written on velvet chinstrap: "59389"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design