You limited your search to:

 Decade: 1960-1969
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat
Suit hat of white felt. Round crown with 2-3/4" wide brim curved upward on left side and downward on right side. One inch wide black grosgrain ribbon hat band that ties in a bow on right side. Lined in white netting with white grosgrain inner headband. Inside crown stamped: "Feutre / Fléchet" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305389/
Hat
Hat of black silk organza. Shallow crown with 5" wide, down-turned brim. Brim covered with large organza overlapping petals. Lined in net with black grosgrain inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305332/
Hat
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30132/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30164/
Hat
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30161/
Hat
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30163/
Hat
Hat of black silk chiffon. The hat is formed from a cylindrical pillbox style hat surmounted by a conical section that is folded back and flares out to form an extension behind the hat. Where the surmounting piece meets the pillbox is a black bow formed from the same cloth. Inside of crown is lined in stiff black netting, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the base of the crown. A small plastic comb is sewn in front of hat to inner ribbon to secure it to wearer's head. No labels. The donor records that "... Balenciaga showed it with dress and sleeveless coat..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30135/
Hat
Cossack-style hat of brown sable fur. Lined, with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Designer label sewn to headband: "Balenciaga / 10. Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330438/
Hat
Cossack-style hat of brown sable fur. Lined, with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Designer label sewn to headband: "Balenciaga / 10. Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330536/
Hat
Hat of light beige wool felt. For daytime wear, the hat has a high, domed crown, encircled at the base by a band of the same felt, with a bow at front right. The wide, somewhat floppy brim, slopes downwards, with a "dent" at back left edge. Unlined, the hat has an inner light beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and is accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching fabric. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330377/
Hat
Hat of bright yellow angora wool. The large hat has a high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown, and is covered with angora wool. The hat is unlined, and the stiffened woven straw(?) mesh under-structure can be seen inside. The hat has an inner yellow grosgrain ribbon hatband. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330347/
Hat
Hat of finely woven lime green straw. Designed as a modified sailor's hat, the cylindrical crown is slightly domed at top, and encircled at the base by a narrow band of the same finely woven straw, with a bow at back. The thick brim is slightly curled up at sides, and is faced with wide band of self, and then has another band of same straw, forming concentric circles. The crown is unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband and partial band along front of off-white cotton(?) padding. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330524/
Hat
Hat of medium blue wool. Crown formed as a pillbox, cylindrical, with flattened top. At front, extending slightly to sides, is a crescent-shaped bill form brim, also covered with blue wool. Underside of bill/brim lined/faced with same wool. Crown is lined in stiffed off-white fine mesh, and has a dark slate blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330508/
Hatlet
Hatlet/hair ornament of black silk. Designed as a stylized bow shape created from a tube of black silk, the open ends are stuffed to be open, and the whole is folded and sewn down, and mounted on a small plastic comb to secure it to the wearer's head. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330373/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat covered in sapphire blue silk. Large sapphire blue silk rose accent with green leaves at right front. Lined in navy blue silk with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Comb for securing hat to wearer's head at inside front. Designer's label on inside headband at back: "Eisa" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305424/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat. The short, flat-topped cylindrical crown of tan netting is completely covered with rows of artificial magenta pink silk flowers, which have yellow thread and green plush centers. Inside the lower edge of the crown is a dark green grosgrain ribbon band which has two sections of elastic cord sewn along the sides to form loops to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Label sewn into inner ribbon band: "Eisa" Donor stated that this hat was "...to wear with a black day outfit." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30148/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk faille. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and has one large ruby red silk rose at center front of the side. Lined in black satin, with a single comb inside to secure hat to wearer's head. No label in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305384/
Pillbox Hat
Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner band is a plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa". The jeweled ornament is attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. Donor notes of this hat: "...to wear with short black cocktail dresses." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30150/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black silk tulle and satin in the form of a low pillbox of black silk tulle, tapering slightly to the shallow-domed crown. On the right side is a cascade of dyed green ostrich feathers. No designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30179/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece suit of black and ivory plaid wool with black silk blouse. (a) Jacket: Short unfitted jacket of black and ivory windowpane plaid wool; V-neckline with standard notched collar and short lapels.;3/4 length sleeves cut in one with jacket body supplemented by single triangular gusset under arm; lapped centerfront opening with three round, plastic, ivory buttons and bound buttonholes; front has a large pair of faux pocket flaps at lower chest level; fully lined in white silk. (b) Blouse: Semi-fitted short black silk faille blouse with jewel neckline; 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with blouse body and supplemented by single triangular shaped gusset under arm; centerfront opening laps left over right with four round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with one snap at neck; folded hem; facings and hem interfaced with black silk organza. Label stitched at bottom of back neck facing. (c) Skirt: Matching plaid semi-tailored, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; slight gathers at front waist; offset left side front zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure on waistband; folded hem; fully lined in white silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30115/
Toque
Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30134/
Trilby Hat
Trilby hat of black velvet. Designed with a sculpted crown, more vertical at back and sloping at front and sides, with slight dome at top, the hat has a narrow brim at front angled somewhat downwards, while at sides and back the brim curves upwards sharply. Top-stitching accents running up center front of hat, along top, along back facing of brim, and along edge of brim. Underside of brim is faced in same velvet, while the crown is unlined. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330539/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of yellow jacquard rayon with paisley design. Floor length; cap sleeves; collar. Center back zipper. Deep inverted pleat in front starts just below the bust. Princess seams and side slit pockets. Lined in yellow silk. Designer's label at inside back by zipper: "Geoffrey Beene" Accompanied by a detachable bow in matching fabric. Clips onto V-neck just below the collar or possibly at center front pleat below bust or in hair. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501358/
Hostess Ensemble
Hostess ensemble of cotton sateen in lime green floral and paisley print over navy background consisting of: A) Top with bodice in modified halter style and long, flared bottom. Top extends below hips giving the appearance of a gathered skirt with empire waist. Left side zipper closure with hook & eye and 3 hook & eyes on left shoulder. Trimmed in navy braided tape around all outer edges and at seam of bodice. Lined in white organdy with white grosgrain ribbon petersham at gathered waist. Designer's label at center back: "Geoffrey Beene". B) Pants. Full length with flared bottoms. Center front zipper with hook & eye. Hem trimmed in matching navy braid. Designer's label at center back: "Geoffrey Beene" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501374/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat covered in navy feathers with white tips over a crown of navy felt. Inner headband of blue grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label on inside headband: "Frank M. Benson" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286827/
Hat
Sailor hat of natural straw cloth with wide red velvet band and bow under brim formed as part of hatband. Small brim also has narrow band of red velvet around outside edge on top. Size label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277120/
Day Dress
Day dress of bright pink silk brocade in floral design. Bateau neckline. Sleeveless with French darts in bodice. Semi-pleated, below knee skirt. Side slit pockets. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in pink silk with petersham of pink grosgrain with hook & eye. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Bill Blass / for / Maurice Rentner" Union label at center back near bottom of zipper. Retailer's label at center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501337/
Summer Evening Dress
Summer evening dress of pink and white stripped cotton twill. Full length, with low, rounded/scooped neckline and short, slightly puffed sleeves. Empire waistline. Stripes on the bodice go from top right to lower left; stripes on the full skirt go from top left to lower right. Center back zipper with hook & loop at neckline and at waist. Bodice lined in self, skirt lined in white fine fabric. Designer's label at inside back, near zipper: "Bill Blass / For / Maurice Rentner" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501352/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of champagne hand appliqued lace over fine net. A) Fitted bodice with jewel neckline. Long, set-in sleeves with 6 self-covered buttons and loops at hem. Center back opening with 13 snaps. Lined in extra layer of net. B) Dress with strapless bodice of net covered in champagne organza. Street length, with skirt of three tiers of matching lace. Center back closure of hook & eyes. Waist band of 3" pink grosgrain ribbon which forms a bow at the center back and closes with hook & eyes and snaps. Bodice is reinforced with net "boning" and skirt is lined in champagne organza. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501332/
Hat
Hat of black ostrich feathers. The hat, designed with a domed crown, is completely covered with curling black ostrich feathers, giving it the look of a wig. Lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and with two small combs to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286813/
Kipper Tie
Wide kipper tie of large stylized paisley designs in yellows and gold on a blue field. Blue is somewhat faded from the original shade. The tie has a tag on reverse marked "Brent" and with the logo for Montgomery Ward. The creation of the kipper tie, a form of extra-wide necktie known for bright colors and patterns, is credited to British designer Michael Fish. He brought out the earliest ones in the 1960's. This example was a gift to the donor by his maternal grandmother, Mary Kathleen King Miller (1898-1969). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30325/
Hat
Hat of yellow straw. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top and has a "ridge" of straw running from front to back. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of pleated yellow organza. The wide, somewhat floppy brim extends out and curves upwards. Unlined, with an inner yellow grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Shari / Brett / originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276988/
Dress
Dress of diagonally ribbed silk of off-white with deep red/orange, large paisley print. Long sleeves with 2" cuffs secured with two self-covered buttons and loops. Above the knee length. 2.5 inch standing collar. Collar closes in back with self-covered button, loop and 4 snaps. Horizontal seam across bust and deep, inverted box pleats falling from sides under bust line; pleats mirrored in back. Four self-covered buttons below collar secured with loops down center back. Zipper in back center from beneath buttons. Lined in ivory silk crepe. Designer's label at center back: "Donald Brooks" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501382/
Hat
Pillbox style hat of tan fur felt. High crown with 2 small black buttons pinching the fabric throughout. Eight small black buttons form a V with black and red satin tubing as trim on edge. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label on inside headband: "Helen Brounet / California" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286856/
Dress
Dress of bright red wool. Sleeveless; jewel neckline; knee length. Empire waist with inserted panel, quilted and top-stitched. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Kick pleat opening at center front seam. Lined in bright orange silk. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286919/
Dress
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/
Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851" From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30084/
Mini Dress
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined. Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87026/
Hat
Hat of red straw. High, rounded crown somewhat like a cloche, surmounted by a ball of same red straw. Roughly oval brim, turning up towards edge, higher in front than back. Brim and base of crown edged with thin band of red grosgrain(?) ribbon. Unlined. Inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label inside at inner hatband: "Oleg Cassini" Union Label inside. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277097/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of red straw cloth with small narrow brim. Wide, red grosgrain ribbon around crown topped with red vinyl ribbon and bow with top stitching. Inside crown lined in net. Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Ceder Crest / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277167/
Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286794/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black stiffened net and black cloth overlay. The cylindrical crown tapers to the flattened top, and is made of black cloth with applied patches of black grosgrain ribbon. The whole is overlaid with a stiff black cage netting veil, with a black grosgrain ribbon bow at back of crown. The crown is lined on inside with red lace, and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner band are two small plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Designed by Michael Roy New York"; Retailer's label inside crown above designer's: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39248/
Cocktail Suit
Cocktail suit of black silk satin consisting of: A) Waist-length jacket formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. Center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style number tag beneath designer's label: "10967" B) Matching mid-length skirt of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. Three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. Skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283774/
Skirt Suit
Suit of cream/blue/pink wool boucle. A) Waist-length jacket with round neckline and no collar, two-piece set-in long sleeves, four patch pockets on front, and center-front opening with 5 circular sculptural lion-head gold-tone metal buttons. Matching non-functional buttons sewn on each pocket and on cuffs. Neckline, opening, cuffs, and top edges of pockets with rolled(?) edging. Fully lined in pink silk. Inside bottom hemline weighted with gold chain. No labels. B) Skirt of same material. Below-knee-length. Slim, almost straight, flaring slightly to hem. Narrow waistband with two hook-and-eye closures, just above zipper closure. Lined in pink silk. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283772/
Skirt Suit
Two piece day suit. a) Jacket of burnt orange, moss green, and burgundy wool bouclé. Round neckline. Burnt orange braid at collar, center front and hem. Cuffs trimmed in rope braid and reversed side bouclé inserts. Faux french-cuffs of silk ikat taffeta at end of sleeves. 4 buttons covered with red silk and boarded with reverse of bouclé wool. Center front extension of reversed bouclé and buttons holes in seam, not welt. Patch pockets with V-shaped detail using matching trim, lined in ikat silk. Back hem weighed down by gilt, heavy chain. Designers Label inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style Number tag on back of Designer's Label: "09603" Attached hanging tag: "Made in France" Retailer's Label in Front Right Hem: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Skirt of wool bouclé in 3/4 length. Back zipper with hook & eyes. Narrow waistband of red silk. Front panel lined in red silk. Hemmed with 2" wide orange hem lace. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283703/
Hat
Beret style hat of black velvet with red grosgrain trim around half of hat. Black velvet "arrow tip" on crown. Unlined with inner headband of red grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label on inside headband: "Design by / d. charles" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283705/
Dress
Day dress of gray flannel. Knee length, with empire waist, mandarin collar, and short sleeves. Scalloped hem detail of white organdy, with white organdy flowers on hem area, around collar and sleeves. Center back zipper with 2 hook & loops. Lined in gray silk crepe. Designer's label at center back seam of lining: "Christian Dior - New York Inc." Lot/size and Union Label at seam with designer's label. Retailer's label at left side of center back neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498975/
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of glitter-studded black chiffon. A) Outer dress is sheer, knee-length, with rounded neckline, and sleeveless. The body of the dress is decorated with vertical rows of clusters of tiny circular mirrored dots, glued to fabric. Wide band at hem of same clusters of mirrors, formed as a repeating band of large roses. Center back opening with hook and eye at neckline and 7 hidden snaps. B) Belt. Black satin belt with large rectangular rhinestone buckle. C) Inner slip of black organza over fine black silk faille. Center back zipper and flesh-colored spaghetti straps. Designer's label at center back seam near hem: "Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label at same location: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501307/
Cocktail Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Cocktail Ensemble of beige chiffon. A) Cocktail dress. Short, knee-length or slightly longer, sleeveless dress with narrow straps. Rounded neckline with self ruffle edging. Chiffon of bodice is gathered at neckline, vertical at front, but rounding to horizontal at back. Skirt has knife-pleating from natural waistline to hips, the pleats opening from hips and falling softly to hem. Center back zipper closure on main dress, with series of 4 snap closures below waist on pleated outer skirt. The skirt portion is formed as a pleated overskirt of chiffon over an inner silk crepe inner sheath, which has a wide ruffle of crepe at hem. Designer's label: "Christian Dior-New York Inc" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". B) Sheer jacket, short, almost cropped, of doubled chiffon with long sleeves and self-ruffle trim around edges of cuffs, neckline, center front opening and hem. No label. C) Belt for dress, leather covered on front with chiffon matching dress. Single hidden hook closure. Stamped on back: "14", "Christian Dior / New York, Inc" and 382" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501369/
Daytime Ensemble
Daytime ensemble of a navy blue crepe. a) Jacket of navy wool crepe. Double breasted with six circular white plastic buttons, three bound buttonholes and three covered snaps; waist length. Wide, rounded neckline. Yoked shoulders of same. Long, set-in sleeves with matching non-functioning button at hem. Lined in ivory silk. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Sheath style dress of navy wool crepe with cream colored yoke and 1-1/2" band collar. Sleeveless; below knee length. Side slit pockets. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Yoke lined in cream colored silk and body of dress lined in navy organdy. Designer's label at center back seam near hem: "Christian Dior / New York, Inc." Retailer's label to left of designer label: "Neiman-Marcus" Union label opposite designer label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499002/