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 Decade: 1920-1929
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1923
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche hat of burnt sienna-colored straw. The high domed crown of woven straw is decorated with flowers and leaves formed by embroidering and couching, but using fine brown and cream cloth rather than thread. The brown fabric flowers have beaded centers. The very narrow brim of matching straw is turned up at front, and edged with brown fabric and bound with dark golden yellow threads. The hat is lined in fine black cloth, through which can be seen the inner stitching of the "embroidery". There are no designer, maker, or retailer labels in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1922
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche hat of beige/dull dusty rose pink rayon faille. The domed crown is crated from a folded/draped and seamed piece of fabric with dark brown braid and light tan and metallic cord. At front of hat is very short brim decorated with brown grosgrain ribbon forming overlapping sections as the ends of a bow. Hat is lined in a red/coral fabric. There are no maker or designer labels or marks in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1927
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche of beige straw. The domed crown is of Milan straw in a small braid. The wide brim is folded up against the hat, and is formed of similar straw work but in concentric bands of beige and darker brown, forming horizontal stripes across the forehead of the hat. Around the base of the crown, visible from sides and back, is a wide band of cream/beige grosgrain ribbon. A pleated "arrow" of the same ribbon is affixed at right temple, extending up and back along the side of the crown. Inside of crown lined in cream/beige fabric. No designer's, maker's, or retailer's labels in item.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1927
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche hat of beige straw. The cloche is based on a Phrygian cap, although lacking the forward-pointing section at top. It is of crocheted beige straw thread. The crown is rounded, coming to a gentle point at to, and with sides that extend downwards to cover the ears. At the front is a crescent-shaped panel of printed chiffon which extends back and down sides of hat. The panel is printed with an abstract floral/foliate design in greens, reds, blues, and golds on a beige ground. Outlining the printed design is applied beige and gold cording, which are couched and sewn to the panel. The sides of the hat are embellished with vertical tucks, and the back has sections turned up and sewn to the crown. The hat is lined in a peach satin. Sewn inside crown is brand label: "Sheila / The Perfect Hat".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1923
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche hat of beige straw. The high, domed crown is created of fine beige straw which has been crocheted. At the base of the crown is a wide band of beige grosgrain ribbon edged with a very thin ribbon band, with a finely pleated section to one side. The cloche has a small brim, mostly down-turned. Over the entire crown and brim is sewn thin "ribbon" bands in a different type and shade of straw, forming several large leaf forms and filling the rest of the space with scrolling decoration. The interiors of the leaf forms are hand-painted in blue, purple, brown and green. The interior of the crown is lined in a tan/copper fabric, and the underside of the brim is lined in a cream fabric. There are no labels in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche hat of black silk velvet. The rigid crown has a flattened top, and sides formed of gathers of the velvet forming horizontal ridges. The brim is a soft, gathered and padded "ruffle" of the same velvet. The hat is lined in a black satin. Sewn inside crown is retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1923
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche of beige silk. The domed brim is of beige silk top-stitched and quilted to a base of grayish felt. The stitching is in the form of repeated and spiraling lines. At base of crown is wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon with bow at front. The brim is of the same material as crown, is shallow, and turns downward. It frames the face, with triangular extensions at sides. Hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1924
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche hat of straw. The high, domed straw is crown of sienna-red braid, with a band of solid reddish-pink silk around the base. Below the silk band is multi-colored ruched trim extending less than 1/4" from the band. Below the trim is a brim covered by sienna grosgrain ribbon, extending very slightly in front and disappearing in back. The hat is lined in a metallic bronze fabric. No designer's or retailer's labels, but hat does retain original price tag inside crown.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche and Scarf Set

Cloche and Scarf Set

Date: 1920/1929
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche hat of embroidered pink linen. The slightly domed crown is made of pink linen with all-over tiny white embroidered polka-dots. The matching brim is turned up at front, sewn to crown, and descends at sides, turning downwards at back. At center back the brim is split, with a bow of the same fabric affixed at the split. The hat is lined with white silk. There are no labels or tags in the hat. The hat is accompanied by a necktie/scarf of the same fabric. Original records indicate the set is probably French in origin.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1923/1926
Creator: unknown
Description: Coat of floral brocade and blue velvet. The mid-length wrap coat is made of Jacquard woven silk(?)in a pattern of flowers in blues, taupe, and browns on a dark brown ground, with metallic gold stitching throughout. The raglan sleeves and the collar are edged in wide bands of gathered ruched aqua blue/green velvet. Center front opening with no closures. The coat is lined in aqua blue/green velvet. No labels in garment. Owned by Mrs. Carlton L. Yager of California, aunt of the donor, who called it her "Opera Coat".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1926
Creator: unknown
Description: Coat of black wool felt, 3/4 length, with long sleeves. In bands above wrist and two bands above hem are rows of knitted wool material in checkered patterns of cream, orange, grey and black forming an almost plaid pattern. Center front opening with one large circular button and loop closure. Long, shawl collar of black fur trim. Fully lined in light brown/copper damask in square and diamond pattern on upper part of coat and black damask in circles and squares pattern on lower part with connecting band of horsehair braid.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1926
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of rose pink rayon and silk, with ivory silk Peter Pan collar and with cut-out stitched trim. 24 silver ball buttons on left side, and geometric triple-tiered ruffles with drop-waist and self-fabric belt with silver buckle. Long, straight sleeves with ivory satin cuffs with stitched trim; single snap closure.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of navy wool gabardine in two parts. The main body of the tubular-shaped dress is full-length, sleeveless, with a round neckline. It has decorative bead-work at upper bust, on back at shoulders and down spine, in a line from right hip down to hem, and around hem. The bead-work includes lines of red and clear beads, spirals and "bursts" of clear and red beads, circular ornaments of red beads, and a roundel at front to bottom right at hem of a scene of a wine jug against a blue, clear and green background. The dress has an opening from left shoulder to waist which is secured with a line of hidden snaps, and is decorated with nine cloth and plastic circular non-functioning buttons arranged in groups of three. The dress is unlined. The dress has with it a detachable cropped camisole of white cotton with center front hook-and-eyes closure and white elastic waistband. The sleeves of the camisole are of navy wool gabardine, bell-shaped, and match the dress. They are decorated with the same style bead-work as the dress, including lines of red and clear beads running from shoulders to wrist, clear and red beaded spirals and "bursts", and ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1928
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening dress of orange/tangerine silk chiffon with cut velvet fish scale design in silvery white partly outlined with silver bugle beads. Sleeveless, with round scoop neck, and armholes cut to waist. Straight tubular shape with drop waist, with a swag of pleated self-fabric at left hip, trimmed with five rhinestone medallions. 1" fur trim at hem. Dress has been shortened and fur may have been added at that time. Probably originally 1918-20's style.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Coat

Evening Coat

Date: 1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening coat of black and gold brocade in a large scale tropical motif. The wrap-style coat has a shawl collar of red fox fur with kimono style sleeves trimmed in fox. The coat is fully lined in gold silk velvet.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Shoes

Evening Shoes

Date: [1924..1975]
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of cream satin sling-back evening shoes with leather embellishments. The shoes, designed with rounded toes, are in a modified D'Orsay pump style, with sides cut back. Plain cream satin uppers are edged with wide bands/stripes of gold and silver metallic leather. 2" high heel, slightly set-in, tapering slightly to base. Stamped inside: "Saks / Fifth Avenue"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Slippers

Evening Slippers

Date: 1927
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening slippers or pumps of gold kid leather with inset panels of metallic gold brocade. Designed with gently pointed toe, the pumps have a low-cut plain gold kid leather vamp with curved upper edge and thin band of inset brocade which sweeps to side and widens out into large panels. Side panels, ankle strap, and back upper heel all of plain gold kid leather. Ankle straps fasten at side with single amber-colored rhinestone stud buttons. The 2" high modified French heel is covered in plain gold kid leather. Retailer's stamp inside both shoes: "Lord & Taylor / New York" Embossed on sole of each shoe: "5158 / 28 / Made / In / Austria / 6 / AA" Stamped inside shoes: "6AA"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Gloves

Gloves

Date: 1920/1929
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of gloves of kid skin leather; off-white; just below wrist length; single snap fastenings at wrist. On back of each glove, running length-wise down hand are three embroidered bands, pink and blue chevrons in diamond formation on dark blue bands. Cuffs from wrist to end are lined with black silk heavily embroidered with floral motifs in blue, pinks, reds, whites, greens, etc. in chain-stitch. Remainder of glove is unlined. Stamped inside glove: "Modèle déposé [Fr-En: Registered Design] / Paris" and "6" and part of other marks. Metal parts of the snaps have what appear to be Chinese/Japanese characters stamped into them.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Gloves

Gloves

Date: 1922/1923
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of gloves. Ivory kid leather gloves with brown and gray embroidery. Hands have inside seaming; 3 darts on top; darts highlighted by rows of gray chain-stitching with ivory dots woven in; wrists have sewn on cuffs; cuffs feature strip of pale off white leather; embellished with geometric and circle embroidery in brown thread; snap under wrist creates keyhole underneath as well. Stamped inside in purple ink: "Made in Belgium / Real Kid".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Large Handbag. Rectangular gilt frame with ball/snap closure set with cabochon green stones. Body of bag formed of red, silver, grey, and black beads in a mosaic/Turkish carpet pattern. Bottom of bag with beaded fringe matching body of bag. Lined in pale peach satin with one pocket and attached small coin purse. Sewn into lining is woven tag "Made In France"; Marked on frame "Made In France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag. Rectangular silver art deco openwork frame set with tiny marcasites and circular cabochon black stones (onyx?). Bag is of black silk velvet. Handle of black silk velvet with two silver rings set with marcasites. Lined with dusty pink ribbed silk, and containing a small rectangular mirror. Marked on frame: "MD" in a square; Diamond shaped mark with an M over a K; and an illegible shield-shaped punch.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1927
Creator: unknown
Description: Headwrap of blue chiffon with band of tan mink fur centered with white rhinestone clasp as trim.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of red purple/plum silk velvet. The hat has elements of a turban, tam-o-shanter, and beret. It is made with an oversized crown of red purple or plum velvet, gathered, caught, and draped, pulling under and then back out to form a brim that does not extend as far as the billows of fabric from the crown. The fabric is embellished with running lines of matching chenille, and clusters of silver-gray painted wooden beads. The hat is lined in black satin. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Pogue / Cincinnati".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1926
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of brown felt with cloche style crown. Folded brim and front tie of same. Unlined with brown grosgrain ribbon headband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design