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 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1940/1950
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material. The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe. Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original" The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1951
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Ecru worsted wool two-piece suit. A: Jacket with center front opening with four beige plastic buttons with bound button holes, first two spread apart by 2" next two spread apart by 10". Collared. Motif of concentric arced inserts, 1.175" wide each, starting from shoulder point, arcing down past second button. This upside down arc repeats on the back with a rainbow meeting the shoulder's center. On front, two more arc inserts motif repeat, with the rainbow arc stretching over the smaller reversed arc between the sections of buttons. One-piece set in sleeves with double elbow darts. Lined in beige silk faille. Retailer's label at center back collar: "Neiman-Marcus" Designer's Label at front right jacket lining: "Adrian / Original" B: Unlined A-line skirt of same fabric with lapped zipper covered by triangle pointed waistband tip on the left side. Waistband 1 3/8" wide. Four darts total, two in front, two in back. Pinked edge to seam allowances. Hem tape attached to 3" wide hem edge with machine stitch, tape hand based to inside of skirt with blind hem (slip stitch) stitch.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1946
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Brown gabardine suit. a) Suit jacket of brown gaberdine. Long sleeves. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons and bound buttonholes. Two faux flap pockets at yoke with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. Two lower hacking pockets with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. V-shaped yoke on back. Lined in rust colored silk. No designer's label. Retailer's label on inside center back neckline: "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia" b)Skirt of brown gaberdine. A-lined shape with left side zipper. Kick pleat at center front seam. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: [1941..1946]
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Black wool two-piece skirt suit. A) Jacket. Just below hip-length, with center front opening with three hook-and-eye closures. Faux tie of same fabric at waist. Slight collar, and v-neckline. Thin orange/red inset line across front and up to shoulders. Long sleeves with inset orange/red panels along length of sleeves, with cording detailing and zipper closures at cuffs. Slit pockets just below waist. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of matching black wool. Street length. Possibly a replacement for the original skirt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: [1947..1948]
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe. a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille. Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material" (b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Skirt suit of black English gabardine. a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk. Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus" b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt

Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert, 1903-1959
Description: Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. The accompanying straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". This garment reflects Adrian's celebration of the lifting of wartime restrictions on types and quantities of materials and trimmings that could be used in making clothes.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit

Suit

Date: 1946
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert, 1903-1959
Description: Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1960
Creator: Ahrens, Therese
Description: Hatlet of artificial flowers and net. The hatlet is composed of a radiating group of artificial rosebuds of pink and white with green stems and leaves. The sprays are attached to a black net circular veil. Designer's label: "By / Therese Ahrens" Retailer's label: "I. Magnin & Co."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 2007
Creator: Akris
Description: Evening dress of ivory silk crepe with over-layer of ivory organza; layered, tiered rectangles of ivory organza down front; strapless bodice silhouette with attached fine cord straps at top of a rectangle of light brown tulle with layered ivory organza rectangles over it; rectangle goes above the bodice top at the center-front; side-zip closure; full-length. Designer's label: "Akris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design