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 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Ensemble of navy ribbed silk. A) Blouse in New Look style with V-shaped neckline and 1" collar. Elbow length sleeves with 1" folded cuffs. Center front opening with hook & eye closure. Patch pockets at side hips. Unlined; petersham of black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye. Designer's label at left side seam: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior-New York Inc." B) Skirt of matching silk. Street length, A lined with pleats at 1" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Camisole

Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Camisole

Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Ensemble of navy-blue and slightly lighter silk organza composed of vertical hand-faggoted bands of alternating shades of blue giving light and dark effect. A) Blouse. Waist length with extending peplum to tuck under skirt. V-neckline, with collar of flat reveres with faggoted border. Short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons, a snap at the natural waistline, and 1 hook and loop and 5 hooks and eyes on peplum. The stripes and peplum are lined in pale gray organza, leaving the faggotted seams unlined. Underarm gussetts, with built-in pads. No labels. B) Skirt. Street length, full skirt matching bodice, with alternating vertical stripes, narrow navy blue waistband with center front opening with 5 self-covered buttons, and one hook and eye and two hook and loops on waistband, and a large snap which matches to bodice. Lined as blouse, with cream organza lining the stripes, but the faggotted bands left open, and with an inner skirt attached at waist of same cream silk organza, and with inner petticoat with flounce of cream tulle which has separate closure with 9 hook-and-eyes. No labels. Handwritten note on waistband "RH650 2P(?)" C) Inner shell camisole/lining for blouse of cream silk. ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: (At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Evening dress of black and white satin. Long torso fitted top. Sleeveless, with wide boat neck of black satin. Zipper down the back. Full harem skirt of black, white, and grey striped and dotted silk with one large black satin bow at hip line and another bow of same at the hem of the short, "balloon" style skirt. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris" and "Made in France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Evening dress of black silk taffeta. Street length; short sleeves. Scooped neckline with attached, pleated capelet/stole which secures to dress with snaps and white, 4-1/2" wide grosgrain ribbon bow at left. Bow buttons onto capelet/stole with small button covered in matching black taffeta. Straight skirt from natural waistline. Center back zipper with hook & loop. Lined in black organdy(?) with black grosgrain petersham. Designer's label on center back seam: "Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label on center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying belt, covered in matching black taffeta. Square buckle; 32" x 1-1/4".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Hat of shiny beige/light brown straw. Formed somewhat as a turban, the strands (approximately 50) of straw are wrapped and swirled around stiff net base creating a high, somewhat conical crown with an effect like a turban or a high-piled swirl of blond hair. Completely covered with beige veiling. Dark muted orange satin binding (1/2 inch deep) around edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner edge: "Christian Dior / chapeaux / Paris~New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1951
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Hat of silk faille. The body of the hat is made of woven straw, covered with beige/off-white silk faille. The shallow, domed crown is made in two parts - the upper shallow dome, and a collar into which the upper crown is inset. The upper edge of the collar is pipped in black. The shallow sloping brim is similarly constructed, with an inner band and then outer section with a black pipped edge between the sections. The crown is unlined, revealing the woven straw. The brim segments are lined in the same faille of the outside of the hat. Around the inside of the crown is an inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon, two which is attached a black elasticized cord to secure the hat to wearer's head. A small red/brown stitch on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Pillbox hat of cream satin. The slightly domed crown of the hat is of cream satin, inset within a thick ring of the same fabric which forms the sides of the crown. Applied to the sides of the crown are black velvet ribbon semi-bows which form "T" shapes, set alternately upright and inverted. The hat is lined in golden tan fabric, and has a white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband around the inside base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior New York Inc.". Retailer's label sewn to inside lining of crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order". Accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Day suit of royal blue linen consisting of: A) Blazer. Single breasted with 4 circular, blue plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Release tucks at bust line. Notched collar; hip length. Long, set-in sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Flap pockets at sides. Lined in matching blue silk jacquard with "Christian Dior" woven design. Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dior-New York / Original / *Trade Mark" Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt in straight style. Left side zipper with 3 hook & eyes. Center back 12" pleat. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Toque of brown and green straw. The toque has a high, cylindrical crown with flattened top. The crown is made of bands of very fine green and more coarse brown/tan woven straw. The flattened top is of green, and along the sides are three narrow green bands, three narrow tan/brown bands, and the lowest, wide band of tan/brown. To one side of the toque is affixed a spray of artificial lily of the valley, tied with a red grosgrain ribbon bow. The hat is lined in blue/gray fabric, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon round the inside base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner headband: "Made in / England / Christian Dior / Chapeaux". Retailer's label sewn to inner headband: "Lazarus / French Room / Columbus, Ohio".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Dolly Madison
Description: Pillbox hat of red felt. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and encircled by matching material gathered and scrunched to create horizontal wrinkles around the crown. Set off to front right side is rosette/spiral of red feather. Lined in a silvery/gold and black fabric, and with a red grosgrain inner hatband. Maker's label inside: "Dolly Madison"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Dooley, Sue
Description: Jockey cap of navy felt. Hemispherical crown formed of 6 triangular segments. At top of crown is a small green enameled "apple" shaped charm, one green enameled spherical bead, and one orange enameled bead. At front of cap is crescent-shaped bill with inner wired edge. Cap is unlined. No labels in cap.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1955~
Creator: Dooley, Sue
Description: Hatlet of pale yellow/gold slub silk. Designed as a small turban, the domed crown is formed as a swirl of silk pleats with shallow, 1/2" upturned edge at base simulating a brim, with a narrow 1/4 inch wide "hat band" of same fabric. A small bow of the same fabric is at back of cap on lower edge. Lined in a matching fabric, with gold rickrack band along inside bottom edge. Two elastic cords at inner edge indicate hat had combs for attaching to wearer's head, now missing. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: [1950..1959]
Creator: Dooley, Sue
Description: Pillbox hat of woven green ribbon-like paper. The pillbox hat has a low, slightly "dimpled" crown, and is formed of woven green paper ribbon in various widths. Lower edge is turned up and folded over. At back is a flat bow of same material. Hat is unlined, with pale green grosgrain ribbon along inside lower edge as inner hatband. Attached to either side at inner hatband is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: [1950..1959]
Creator: Dooley, Sue
Description: Pillbox hat of brown woven ribbon-like paper with a lustrous finish. The shallow cylindrical crown is slightly concave at top, and has a slightly undulating lower edge. Hat is lined with a printed fabric with Asian-style scene of bamboo and birds, edged with tan/beige grosgrain ribbon, and a band of gold rickrack. Attached at each side at inner edge is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: [1950..1959]
Creator: Dooley, Sue
Description: Pillbox hat of brown fur. The pillbox crown is formed of a cylinder of brown fur. Lined with metallic weave fabric with stripes of red, green, gold metallic, edged with brown grosgrain ribbon and with a band of gold rickrack. At each side, attached to inner band, is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside back edge: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955?
Creator: Dooley, Sue
Description: Pillbox hat of golden yellow/brown fur felt. The cylindrical crown is slightly domed at top, and the sides slant slightly outwards to base. At left side, near front, is a "brush" of golden yellow/brown "feather-hay", held in place by a line of rhinestones which curves at each end. Hat is lined in tan fabric with printed designs in one quadrant. Inner hatband of brown/yellow/tan grosgrain ribbon. Evidence of holes to attach combs at each side to secure hat to wearer's head, now missing. Designer's label inside at back edge: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Eller, Hazel
Description: Hat of navy felt. Somewhat like a cloche in style, the had has a low, rounded crown, with narrow turned-up brim at front. At right side are two fans or "conch shaped" decorations of navy grosgrain ribbon. The hat is overlaid at front with a navy veil. Inner navy grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by a plain black-headed hatpin. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Eller, Hazel
Description: Hat of royal blue velveteen felt. Somewhat in the cloche style, the hat consists of a cylindrical crown tapering slightly to the flat top. The sides of the hat are covered in a wide band of same fabric which wraps around hat and secures in a giant square buckle covered in same fabric. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made" Stamped inside crown: "Borsalino / Antica Casa"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1953
Creator: Eller, Hazel
Description: Hat of white straw and navy blue/black embroidery appliques. The domed crown is of finely woven white straw. The narrow brim turns up at the edges, somewhat irregularly, and is edged in dark navy blue/black embroidery appliques that cover upper and lower parts of the brim. The inside of the crown has a dark navy blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made". Accompanied by two short hat-pins, one with a head covered in matching straw, the other with a simulated pearl head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Eller, Hazel
Description: Hat of green straw. The crown is shaped as a cone with a flattened top. The body of the crown is of dark muted green finely woven straw, with the top being an openwork arrangement of strips of the woven straw interwoven to form a latticework or "basket-weave". Around the base of the crown is a wide band of reddish/orange beige grosgrain ribbon overlaid with a narrow band of the same woven straw, with trailing ends at back. Also wrapped around the crown is a fine dark green veiling. The flexible brim is turned down sharply at front, and turned up at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of the same reddish/orange beige grosgrain ribbon around the inner base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Eller, Hazel
Description: Picture hat of natural straw lace. The low, domed crown is covered with black velvet, and encircled at the base with wide ribbon of the same velvet, with bow and trailing ends at back. The wide brim is of straw lace with a medium-fine mesh and wider bands creating concentric chevrons around the brim. The brim is lined in black fabric, with inner black grosgrain hatband, to the front of which is attached a single small clear plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. The brim has a single thin band of black velvet underneath, near the rim. Designer's label on inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Emme Inc. (New York, New York)
Description: Hat of light-colored straw. Domed crown is surmounted by small sphere of woven straw, and is canted back slightly. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of two layers of white grosgrain ribbon which have extending ends at side. The "snap brim" is slanted downwards at front, but turned up at sides and back. The hat is lined in a fine golden/yellow mesh, and has an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband at base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Emme Inc / New York" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Amen Wardy / El Paso - Texas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design