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 Country: France
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat

Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Suit hat of black velour. Rounded 4" deep crown. 2" wide front upward turned brim. 1/2" wider at sides, turning downward at center back. Has large black ostrich feather tassel at center back. Lined in netting with gray grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Comb at center front for securing hat to wearer's head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Cocktail hat of violet silk satin. The hat is formed of a low, cylindrical, flat-topped pillbox-style crown covered in drapes of violet/purple silk satin fabric. At center front/top of the crown are two large sculptural stiffened loops of the fabric. Crown is lined in cream fabric. Along inside lower edge of crown is a cream grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. Donor stated: "...worn on back of head with upstanding loops in front, made for a grey lace three-quarter cocktail dress..."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955/1965
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Hat of red/orange straw. Constructed of bands of braided straw sewn in a spiral, the crown is a shallow cylinder with inset flattened top, and flares out at base to form the steeply sloped brim. At left side of crown is large applied flat bow of same straw. Unlined, the hat has an inner band of self, partly overlaid with cream velvet as a hatband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955/1965
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Hat created with a green and white silk scarf printed with a plaid pattern. The framework is a domed crown, higher at front than back, over which the silk scarf is fastened, pulled to back forming knotted ornament with trailing end. Lined in white mesh tulle, through which the under-structure can be seen. Inner pale green and white grosgrain ribbon hatband, with translucent brown plastic comb at inside front to secure to wearer's head. No designer's label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mushroom Hat

Mushroom Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Mushroom hat of red/orange baku straw. Uniquely cut crown is square with points at front and back. Four side panels are formed off of sides of square crown. Lined in white gauze material with red/orange grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mushroom Hat

Mushroom Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Cocktail mushroom hat of black silk gazar. Over-sized, with flat top and slightly downward turned 6" brim. Pillbox inner crown with black grosgrain inner headband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1955/1965
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Picture hat of light beige finely woven straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a rolled tube of the same straw, into which at front is twined the stem of a beige silk satin rose. The wide, slightly floppy brim is strengthened at brim by rolling up and over. The hat is unlined, with inner beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and two small elastic cords at sides to help secure combs/pins to help hold hat to wearer's head. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955/1965
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Pillbox style hat of mustard yellow dyed Persian lamb (aka astrakhan). The short, cylindrical crown has a flat, inset top of brown velvet, and slightly bowed sides of yellow curly Persian lamb. The hat is lined in a bronze silk(?), and has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband and a brown elastic cord to help secure it to wearer's head. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1954~
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Suit of brown and black wool tweed consisting of jacket, skirt, and vest. a) Jacket: princess line jacket of black and brown wool tweed with ivory slubs running through fabric; V-neckline with narrow notched collar and lapels; full-length sleeves are cut with the jacket body and have two triangular shaped gussets under the arm; sleeves are rolled up to form 1-1/2 cuffs; button front closure; buttons of black crocheted cord surrounding a round faceted black gem. b) Skirt of self fabric with self buttons down center-front; mid-length. c) Vest of self fabric with fabric covered buttons down center-front; fitted; approximately 1" wide shoulder straps.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1954~
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Light and charcoal gray two-piece daytime skirt suit with leather belt. Fitted jacket of light gray heavy weight wool, having a V-neckline with moderate shawl collar. 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with jacket body and supplemented by one triangular shaped gusset under the arm. Lapped centerfront opening with two large, round, gray plastic buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook&eye at waist seam. One pair of faux pocket flaps at bust level. Leather belt. Plain slim skirt of dark charcoal gray wool, just below knee-length.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1957
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Charcoal gray wool two-piece suit. (a) Jacket: Fitted jacket of gray diamond twill wool; V-neckline with notched collar and peaked lapels; full-length, two piece, set in sleeves; lapped center front opening with two round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with snaps between buttons; fronts have shoulder and waist darts; two pairs of faux pocket flaps with buttons on fronts at bust and hip; back has low-slung, self fabric belt buttoned on above two faux vents at hem; fully lined in gray silk. (b) Skirt: Matching princess line, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; straight hip yoke all around; inverted box pleat falls from yoke at center back; offset left side back zipper closure supplemented by one hook&eye closure on waistband; hem is faced with gray silk; fully lined in gray silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1955
Creator: Balmain, Pierre
Description: Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of gray felt. The domed crown is constructed with the the outline of a rounded square, with attached stiffened double-brim, which turns up on all sides, forming a point at front and at sides, but rounded in back. At the back of the hat the brim extends downwards, forming a point. The hat is unlined, and edged with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. A small stitched star on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Visible behind the ribbon in one section is the woven straw backing used to stiffen the brim. Designer's label inside crown, sewn to ribbon band: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made" Stamped inside crown on felt: Circular mark containing a logo of three rabbits and partly missing word "... URLAP", and below logo ".... en France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Chapeaux
Description: Hat of beige velour. Styled as a modified calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a low domed crown and narrow rolled brim with extends slightly more in front to form a "visor" shape. Set at front of hat is an ornament of crossed large white and beige feathers, and smaller gray and white ones. Underside of visor lined with an off-white jersey-like material, and the hat has an inner hatband of dark gray beige grosgrain ribbon overlaid with silver rickrack and pink lace. Maker's label: "Chapeaux / Paris...Chicago" Stamped inside crown: "Midi / Imported velour body / Made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1955
Creator: Christian Dior New York Inc.
Description: Dress (evening?) of gray and gold brocade in floral pattern with small roses. Below knee length, with short sleeves, and with collarless rounded neckline, split at center front. Center front opening, which has: 3 self-covered circular buttons and bound button holes on bodice; one hook-and-loop tab in pleating; three hook and loop fasteners at dropped waist narrow waistband/belt; 6 functioning self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes on skirt; and with two faux bound button holes at bottom near hem. Full skirt is pleated into waistband. Large bow-form of self at center back of waistband. Lined in sheer cream silk. Designer's label at waist, right back: "Christian Dior - New York Inc."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Coralie
Description: Hat of black panne velvet. Designed somewhat as a toque, the hat has a high, cylindrical crown which is encircled at base by a wide black velvet ribbon with bow at back and spray of black feathers extending from bow. The brim extends down at a sharp angle. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sew to inner hatband: "Styled by / Coralie" and "Finlan". Stamped inside crown: "Flechete / Body made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat of red satin and sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of dark red satin almost completely covered in sequined floral appliques. Irregular lower edge, following the outline of the appliques. Lined in black paper (?) and satin, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the band indicates the front of the hat, and a small applied white ribbon bow is set at back. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending across the inside of the hat, the "Paris", most of "New" and all of "York" are cut off.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat of dark green felt and multicolored yarns. Formed in the style of a small bonnet, the cylindrical crown is pointed back, and cut flat across top. The front of the crown is overlaid by a band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground of various colors of yarn, and scattered shaped beads. This band is bordered by a thick purple yarn. At the front of the hat and extending along the sides are the brim, folded back to form a second wide band of heavily embroidered/crocheted flowers and ground. The hat is unlined, and from the inside can be seen the inner part of the embroidery/crochet. Maker's label sewn inside hat, at back of crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hatlet of burgundy fabric covered with artificial flowers. The hatlet is formed as an oval of stiffened burgundy fabric intended to be worn across the top of the head. The hatlet is almost entirely covered with artificial flowers of velvets, silk, and other fabrics. The flowers are primarily in pinks/purples/reds, with green stems and leaves. The hat is lined in black satin and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is very large, extending across the full width of the inside of the hatlet, the word "Paris" partly obscured by the grosgrain ribbon.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Turban

Turban

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Turban of pleated brown wool jersey. The high-crowned turban is composed of pleated concentric bands of fabric. The hat is lined in mesh covered with cream/pale yellow silk, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A stitched mark on headband shows front of hat, and small applied ribbon bow shows back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, almost reaching from headband to headband across inside of crown.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Calotte style hat made of brown net covered with green silk leaves and violet rose buds. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design