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 Decade: 1970-1979
 Year: 1975
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Purse
Purse of brown and tan woven burlap-type fabric and brown leather. Rectangular, with rounded bottom and edges. Sides of fabric, end panels of leather, with leather handles and trim with brass hardware. Closure is a 1" inch leather strap with "door knocker" type fixture with a turn key closure. One zippered pocket interior center creates three distinct compartments. Designer's stamp on interior zippered pocket: "Etienne Aigner / Hand Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330482/
Earrings - Banjara Festival Attire
Earrings. Pair of earrings for pierced ears. Each earring is composed of an inner and outer circular hoop. A single flat silver pendant is suspended within the inner hoop, while a fringe of 7 pendants of a bugle bead and a silver sphere hang from the inner hoop. From the outer hoop hang a long triangular pendant fringe of 13 graduated strands with bugle beads, terminating in flat silver teardrop forms. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461874/
Day Dress
Day dress of black, blue, gray and yellow nylon jersey knit. Elbow length, set-in sleeves are black with banded cuffs in gold, yellow, blue and black pattern. Rounded, banded neckline. Knee length. Natural waistline is slightly gathered at sides and back. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined. Signed "Paganne" in pattern of dress. Designer's label at neckline to left of zipper: "Paganne Ltd. / by Gene Berk -8-" Care label at neckline to right of zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503787/
Boots - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Boots. Red cotton(?) uppers embroidered with circular/sun designs and scrolls in green, yellow, red, blue, pink, white. Scattered silver "sequins" which are small strips of silver folded through fabric. Red leather soles. Edged in black. Lined in dark red leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461880/
Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Necklace of openwork beading. Wide straps with diamond shapes of yellow/orange with inner sections of blues and yellows against grounds of green, red, blue, and orange. Large central section formed as a white beaded diamond shape containing concentric diamonds of green and red. Blue beaded fringe at bottom ending in red and white "flowerheads" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461844/
Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Bead Necklace. "Bib" style, with wide main portion of latticed clear beads overlaid with a field of shell/mother of pearl buttons. Vertical strands of beads along top, attaching to choker band with button clasp. The bib has a lower band of white, black, etc. openwork beading, then strands of beaded fringe in clear, green, yellow, blue, black, red, etc. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461881/
Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Bead Necklace. "choker" style bead necklace composed of sections of orange and black horizontal strands interspersed with diamond-shaped motifs of white, orange, green, yellow, and reddish brown. Below the main section is a "fringe, consisting of white beads forming a narrow net, then bands of red and orange, then fringe of blue, yellow, black, white, red, green, and ending in shells, glass beads, etc. Large circular button clasp. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461789/
Jacket
Box style jacket of brown suede. Wide pointed collar and lapels. Long sleeves. Asymmetrical closing at center front with large appliqued circle patch pocket at right front and 2 large metallic silver buttons with bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two large snaps on waistband. Four 12" ties at waist band with1-1/2" diameter suede circles at ends. Lined in brown synthetic fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York / Made in France" Retailer's label at right front opening: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room" Label at left shoulder: "Made in France (rest illegible)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503791/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of ivory leather and black patent leather. Made in the "spectator" style, the rounded toe-box, the 4" high blocky heel, and the lower part of the heel upper are of black patent leather, while the rest of the upper is of ivory leather. The black patent leather panels are decorated with white stitching along the edges. Lined in brown leather. Designer label: "Xavier Danaud / Paris" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B 2019" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87064/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black jersey. The cylindrical crown has a flat, slightly recessed top, and bands of black silk ribbon decoration applied horizontally around sides. Upper and lower bands are of plain layered ribbon forming slightly molded bands, while central band is of twisted/folded/worked ribbon creating a dimensional braided pattern. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband and a single small faux turtle shell comb to help secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305376/
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble in black silk crepe with diagonal "scratch print" in green, consisting of: Tunic style top. Below-hip length, with asymmetrical neckline. Long flaring dolman bottom sleeves. Cut on bias. Unlined. Belted with tie sash of same fabric, with pointed ends and lingerie hem. Skirt. Midi length, with elastic waist and zipper closing on diagonal at left side toward back. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501368/
Earrings - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Earrings. Pair of heavy pendant earrings of silver-colored metal and glass. Bail loops suspend a roughly semi-circular silver plate with collet-set glass sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. From lower edge of plate are suspended small clusters of flat silver shapes and small spheres. Earrings do not match exactly. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461840/
Pumps
Pumps of pink, yellow, orange, and white plaid synthetic fabric. The shoes have rounded toes and a 2" high square chunky heel. On top of each shoe, across instep/vamp, are two self fabric covered martial cords twisted together with gold ends. Designer label: "Lily Shoes / Walk with Comfort" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115028/
Ensemble - Nubian Traditional Ensemble
Nubian Ensemble. A) Jirjara robe (Nubian-style young woman's galabeyah) of sheer black machine-made lace with scattered "tendrils" of various sized dots all-over which extend from hem upwards. Full-length, with rounded neckline and slight "V" at front. Full-length sleeves flaring to wrist. B) Under-dress of white cotton embroidered with ancient Egyptian-inspired motifs, including lotus blossoms. Full-length, with rounded neckline with small "V" at front. Neckline edged with green embroidery. Short sleeves edged with similar green embroidery, as are the short slits from the hem upwards. "Bib" at front of upper part of dress with green, yellow, blue, red, and pink embroidery of stylized lotus, scrolls, border lines, etc. Front of skirt with large embroidered motif of lotus(?) growing from bowl, with other blossoms around, in same colors. Back is plain. Unlined. C) Head scarf of very fine black fabric. Triangular in shape, with edging of simulated gold-colored coins. With suite of costume jewelery of gold-colored metal hung with faux coins, consisting of: 1) Necklace. Simple gold chain suspending triangular "net" of gold quaterfoil-shaped links hung with tiers of faux coins. Simple hook fastener. "Cascade" style. 2) Headpiece (?). Formed of two linked triangles of net with 6-lobed openwork links, hung with tiers of faux coins. At center point is large heart-shaped pendant hung with fringe of coins on short beaded strands. 3) Earrings. Pair. Simple hook suspends horizontal bar from which hangs a triangular "cascade" of tiers of faux gold coins hung on a net of quatrefoil-shaped links. 4) Bracelet. Cuff-style openwork wire bracelet with fringe of tiny spherical bells. 5) Bracelet. Cuff-style bracelet of openwork metal hung with a triangular "cascade" of tiers of faux gold coins hung on a net of quatrefoil-shaped links. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277151/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of pale gray/green satin. Plain uppers with applied oval panel of multicolored floral brocade simulating embroidery at vamp, within a metal twist/rope frame, as a decorative buckle. Low modified Louis heel covered in same fabric. Brand stamp: "Pietro / Last" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "7B 4872 / 699320A" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114964/
Hat
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool" Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286826/
Earrings - Rabari Festival Attire
Silver earrings. Hook fasteners attached to triangular plaques set with red or red and green glass circles. Below plaques are suspended hemispherical filigree pieces with fringe of wrapped wire and silver spheres. One earring with 5 red stones, one empty collet, the other earring with 4 red and 2 green stones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461804/
Earrings - Rabari Festival Attire
Silver earrings. Wire hook fasteners attached to oval collet containing a large oval dark blue glass(?) cabochon stone. Below stone is suspended a filigree hemisphere with dense fringe of silver shaped plaques and spheres. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461862/
Necklace - Rabari Festival Attire
Necklace. "Bib" style necklace with 4-strand black yarn necklace with silver slide at back. Front bib of silver beads mounted in vertical bands into a "fan" form, from which hang a fringe of 11 polished cowrie(?) shells, with a further fringe of pendant chains and spheres hanging from each shell. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461823/
Dress
Evening dress of pale yellow silk chiffon with bead detailing. V-neckline in front creating the halter, with pieces draped from halter down and out to sides. The entire bodice is finely pleated and gathered, and has beaded panels which creates an empire waist. The beaded panels vary from narrow at center front to wide at sides, and meet at center back. The beading is white and silver beaded horizontal stripes on a mauve background. The skirt is formed by the chiffon being gathered into the beaded panels in many layers and falling to the floor. Dress has a matching lining and has a zipper down center back with hook-and-eye closures at top of zipper and at halter. Label in gown: "Victoria Royal Ltd. / Made In / British Crown Colony / of / Hong Kong". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30333/
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India A) Choli (top) - Sleeved, backless top. Deep V-neckline. Short sleeves. Patchwork, using various types, colors, and patterns of fabric. Panels at sides, bottom, and upper breasts/lower front shoulders of rows of various sized mirrors framed in different color stitching. Ties in back. Lined in various fabrics. B) Ghaghra (skirt) - Ankle-length skirt made of horizontal bands of various fabrics. From top: Green waistband; Yellow band with red stitched "X" forms; Wide band of three rows of small circular mirrors framed in various colors of cloth, the bands divided by a blue and an orange stripe of cloth with stitched "X" forms; Thin green band with red stitches; Very thin white strip; Pink stripe with center band of yellow/green running across it; Narrow band of various-colored fabric in slightly wavy profile; Black band with center band of various color stitching; White crenelated band; purple band; Wide green section with center wide red stripe with yellow borders; Wide hem with various embroidered bands and stitching. Lined in red fabric with light yellow printed paisley design. Slit at side, tie at waistband. C) Necklace. Yarn/cord necklace. Ball/loop closure at back. Back part of necklace covered with tightly wound spiral of tiny red/purple beads. Necklace has 7 pendants of graduated sizes composed of silver-colored coins with attached loops and with attached hanging loops from which are suspended small silver spheres. Between each coin pendant is a tubular silver spacer bead. Coins are from India, of several denominations, one dated 1984, one dated 1985, others with dates obscured. No maker's marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 21 3/4" long D) Necklace. Long, narrow corded/twined black necklace with central openwork beaded "zig-zag" line of tiny beads in groups of red, yellow, green, red, blue, green, and orange, with white beads at the "points" of the zig zags. Attached to lower edge of necklace is a "fringe" of various coins mounted with silver rectangular bars. Coins are from Afghanistan (20th century), Pakistan (dated 1981 and 1982), and Iran (reign of Shah Muhammad Reza Pahlavi, from 1970's). No maker's marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 21 3/4" long Not shown in photographs are: E) Upper-arm band of maroon cotton/linen. Rectangular, with pink, green, and gold embroidery and 4 large circular mirror appliques with orange, green, and yellow borders along length, and two small circular mirrors with orange borders at one end. 7 large cast silver-colored metal pendant beads along lower edge. Cloth tie at each corner. 3 1/4" wide x 12 3/4" long. No labels or tags. F) Upper-arm band of maroon cotton/linen. Rectangular, with pink, green, and gold embroidery and 4 large circular mirror appliques with orange, green, and yellow borders along length, and two small circular mirrors with orange borders at one end. 7 large cast silver-colored metal openwork triangular pendants along lower edge. Cloth tie at each corner. 3 1/4" wide x 12 3/4" long. No labels or tags. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277035/
Ensemble - Blouse and Slacks
Outfit. A) Blouse of multicolored polyester in a geometric design. "Midriff scarf blouse" style, with wide elastic neckline, cropped waist, and wide band of elastic smocking to create waistband below bust. Lower edge with ruffle effect. Sleeves are triangular in shape, forming oversized wings that flow as wearer moves. No labels. B) Slacks of off-white cotton or cotton/polyester blend. Full-length, with wide, slightly flaring legs and pronounced cuffs. Wide waistband, with cf zipper and two snaps at waistband. Wide belt-loops. Unlined. No labels. Handwritten inside: "M B Walker F" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501379/
Ensemble - Egyptian Traditional Ensemble
Egyptian Ensemble. A) Galabeya. Full-length galabeya of black cotton, with rounded neckline cut at base to for a shallow "V". Caftan style, with long sleeves and slit from hem upwards on right side. Front of galabeya with embroidered and applique decoration. Around neck and front of bodice is floral decoration and scrolls in gold, greens, red, and blue, and central shield-shaped gold satin applique piece with embroidered scroll work in gold and blue. Lower part of galabeya with matching, but inverted similar gold satin appliques with embroidered scrolls, and embroidered floral forms. Long sleeves with thin rectangular embroidered gold bands along wrist. Unlined. B) Head Scarf. Rectangle of fine red fabric, lower edge scalloped. Upper edge with sewn border incorporating spaced gold cylindrical beads. Ends of scarf and scalloped area of lower edge with thin crocheted/sewn band with spaced gold tear-drop beads and simulated gold coins. Applied to center of scarf are two bands of red crocheted/knitted net with gold spherical beads and pendant simulated gold coins. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277038/
Festival Attire - Akha Hill Tribe
Festival ensemble, Akha Hill Tribe, Thailand. a) Jacket/bodice. Jacket or bodice of black cotton, waist-length, with no collar, shaped neckline, and front opening with no closures. On right side of bodice at upper breast/collarbone is applied panel/section which forms edge of opening. Panel has "zig-zag" effect of three points created by patchwork of various printed fabrics and applied thin bands. Long sleeves with blue fabric sewn at ends to create cuffs. At back, "hanging" from collar is patchwork panel of patterned cloths shaped as a trapezoid with curved long side. Primarily lined in blue cloth with white geometric/linear designs, part of embroidery panel at front lined with a printed brown fabric with small black/yellow geometric design. (zig-zag panel at front) b) Pants. Pants of black cotton embellished with multicolored embroidery. Full-length depending on height of wearer. Wide plain waistband in front, elasticized section at back, and with attached string belt at side which has pom-pom terminals. At front, from waistband, are two "flaps" over upper legs, one forming a pocket with wide decorative band at top consisting of red strips of fabric on dark blue fabric band. The second flap has wide horizontal band of embroidered fabric, with bands of diamonds, squares, "x" shapes, etc. in yellow, blue, white, black, etc. on primarily orange ground. Cuffs of pants, at outer side of each leg, has rectangular applied panels of cross-stitch embroidered fabric in reddish, white, and mustard, with applied machine-woven decorative ribbon with pink squares and blue shapes. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. c) Hat. Black with beading and silver and shells, with red decorations and pendant parts d) Belt. Black cotton(?) belt formed as a rectangle, upper and side edges straight, lower edge gently scalloped to form points at center front and at sides. Belt is edged with border of small blue/green, brownish/tan seeds, with two horizontal bands of same seeds running across belt. Between bands of seeds are bands of silver-colored cabochon discs. Just above each point is a star-burst made of oval white beads/seeds, colored beads, and a cowrie(?) shell. From each point hangs 3 beaded pendants with a bell at end of each. Belt secures with black ties. No labels or tags. ca. 35 1/2" long w/out ties; 5" wide w/out fringe/pendants. e & f) Over-sleeves. Detachable sleeves formed as two 15 1/2" long fabric cylinders, slightly wider at top than cuff, which slide over sleeves of jacket. The cylinders are made of horizontal bands of different woven patterned fabrics of primarily pinks with green, white, and orange decorations, sewn together, with alternating bands of red cloth with applied rick-rack in blue, white, green, yellow, pink, etc., each with silver threading. Sleeves are lined with a printed white fabric with blue linear stripe/band designs. No labels or tags in garment. g) Bag of black cotton, embellished with embroidery, bead-work, silver discs, and a single coin. Long black cotton strap. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277094/
Hanbok
Korean Hanbok. A) Jeogori (Jacket) of white and red damask patterned with floral motifs. Short, cropped white damask top with deep V neckline lined in red damask. Long sleeves, widening towards fore-arm and then curved to wrist. Under-arm area and cuff of the red damask. Center front opening secured with one hidden snap and two long ties of red damask. Lined in thin white fabric. No labels in garment. B) Chima (Skirt) of red damask matching the Jeogori. Full-length, wrap-style garment. Thin white straps to go over shoulders support wide upper band into which the body of the skirt is gathered. Ties at back with ties of red damask. Lined in dark red fabric. No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277082/
Necklace - Turkmenistan Festival Outfit
Necklace. Green cloth necklace, edged with black cloth tape and embellished with spaced stamped silver roundels. Button/buttonhole clasp. The necklace supports a massive silver pendant formed as a large triangle set with oval red glass cabochons, between two silver "club" shapes. Below the triangle and clubs is a horizontal silver square tube set with oval red cabochons, below which are four large inverted stylized "fleur-dis-lys" forms, set with oval cabochons. From all lower parts hang long chains and large bells. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461847/
Necklace - Turkmenistan Festival Outfit
Necklace. Bead necklace of red and blue glass(?) beads strung on white cord. From necklace, via 3 large loops, is suspended a large horizontal silver-colored tube, with bands of flattened/soldered wire decoration. From lower edge of tube hang pendants of flat silver shapes, some small rectangular, some larger "bird shaped", each set with a red or green stone. From these pendants hand further chains and oval plaques. Tube opens at one end, is empty. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461802/
Shoes - Egyptian Traditional Ensemble
Shoes. Slip-on, low-heeled, open back slippers of red leather. Toe-box decorated with Egyptian motifs, including lotus flowers and a "Nefertiti" head. Lined in read leather. Black rubber soles. Note: mis-matched pair. Both are left shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461851/