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 Country: France
 Decade: 1960-1969
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Dress
Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool. The short, A-line dress with shallow boat-neckline, short, cap-sleeves. Front and back of dress with diamond-shaped motif created by slot seams with cream background/under layer. Similar seaming across top of sleeves and joining diamond motifs around sides. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at neckline. Lined in off-white silk(?). Designer's label: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" Retailer's label: "Made in France especially for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286912/
Ensemble
Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble from 1st collection. a) Coat of bright red/orange wool. Long sleeves and collared neckline. Double breasted with large, covered snaps on inside as closure. Two pockets formed from panels on coat. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" b) Dress . Bracelet length sleeves and jewel neckline. Knee length. Center front zipper. Hourglass shaped front panel forms pockets at left and right. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286926/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black and white wool satin gaberdine with matching jacket. a) Evening dress. Front and back centered panels of white fabric with sides of black fabric. Sleeveless, squared neckline, full length. Center back zipper closure. Very tailored, completely lined in white silk. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" b) Jacket. Center front opening with four covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves with turned-back cuffs in white fabric with one pointed end. Peter Pan collar in white fabric. Front and back centered panels of white fabric with sides and sleeves of black fabric. Completely lined in white silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283691/
Dinner Dress
Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30056/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk satin with a puff of ostrich feathers at right side. Organza bow atop feathers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30178/
Ball Gown
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30194/
Breton Hat
Breton hat of dark, almost navy blue felt. The high, cylindrical crown is slightly domed at top, and is encircled by the wide brim, which is upturned almost to vertical, forming a "wall" around the crown. The hat is unlined, with a dark blue inner grosgrain ribbon hatband, and with a small attached comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330484/
Calotte
Calotte of beaded black satin. Evening hat in the form of a calotte (also spelled "calot"). The low, domed crown is made of segments of black satin over a core of woven straw. The surface is embellished with black plastic sequins and beads of various sizes. At top of crown is small squashed spheroid finial covered with a pattern of cylindrical and circular faceted black plastic beads. Inside lower edge of crown is black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn behind band are three elastic loops to help secure hat to head of wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30149/
Coat
Coat of deep pink and white plaid wool. Double breasted with six circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes. Bracelet length sleeves; street length. Two front vertical single welt pockets. Half belt across back of same material with two circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes at ends. Lined in deep pink silk. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283737/
Derby Hat
Derby style hat of navy blue velour. High, domed 4" deep crown with narrow upward curved brim. Unlined with blue grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305372/
Dinner Gown
a) Dinner gown with black crepe skier and white faille bodice; bodice is hand embroidered in irridescent rhinestones, sequins, silver thread, and crystal drops. b) 2" sash of bright pink satin at natural waist. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30174/
Dress
Dress of champagne colored chantilly lace; short sleeves; drop waist with gathered, full, knee-length skirt; babydoll style. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30113/
Ensemble
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30050/
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
a) Cocktail dress of dark green jacquard silk with black field in a pebble motif. Fitted bodice is sleeveless with slight scoop neckline. Gathered, A-line skirt with inseam pockets. Knee-length. Skirt lined in black silk and bodice partially lined at neck with black organza. Left shoulder separates with 5 snaps. Centered, left side zipper with strapped hook & eye. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA" b) Coat of self fabric has sewn down, drawstring neckline. Three-quarter length raglan sleeves. Open front; knee-length. Fully lined in black taffeta with interlining of stiff netting for fullness. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30110/
Ensemble - Coat, Tunic, and Pants
Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30141/
Evening Cape
Evening cape of pale pink silk gazar; oversized, rectangular shaped with shoulder corners turned-in forming diagonal armholes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30202/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black silk crepe with jewel neckline, and three-quarter length sleeves; completely hand embroidered in turquoise, white and gold paillettes; knee-length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30109/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of black velvet with hand embroidered pearls, rhinestones, and beads along side seams and hem; sleeveless; full-length; scoop neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30143/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of red velvet. Floor length with wide, rounded neckline with deep scoop in back and 3/4 raglan sleeves. 1/2" and 1/4" round pearl beads sewn 2" apart over entire dress. Full-length, natural waist A-line skirt with slight train. Zipper closure at center back. Unlined with bodice and sleeved interfaced in maroon silk chiffon. Designer's label at inside right side seam under arm: "EISA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30193/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of black rayon velvet; bustle trimmed with ermine tails; column shaped; built-in undergarment with boning; bustle lined in buckram. In box with dress: box with spare tails from Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30144/
Hat
Hat of taupe leather. The soft-sided crown is somewhat domed. The brim is turned up, forming a "cuff" around the crown. At front is a large bow of the same leather. The hat is lined in white, and has an inner hatband of taupe grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Origin label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286779/
Hat
Cocktail hat of bias cut white draped wool. Front resembles a turban and is formed by four horizontal turned under pleats with 1-1/2" band. Sides and back resemble a beret, with the back folded up and trimmed with a tie bow of self at the center. Partly lined with reinforcing at front to support pleating. Ivory grosgrain ribbon inner headband and comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305404/
Hat
Hat of fine red baku straw. Hat resembles a bowler or derby style. Shallow 2" crown, with slightly rounded top. Has 1 1/2" wide slightly squared flat brim. 3/8" wide hat band of self ties in a small bow. Unlined with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305418/
Hat
Hat of black silk organza. Overall effect is turban-like. Hat is formed with bias organza draped over calotte cap. Fabric drapes across back and is turned under at center back. 1-1/4" wide satin bow 2" above lower edge at center front. Lined with netting and has black grosgrain ribbon inner headband with comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305416/
Hat
Cocktail hat of black silk organza. Loosely draped bias from center front over rounded pillbox crown. Ends cross over and attach in back. Large black silk rose at center front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305342/
Hat
Suit hat of white felt. Round crown with 2-3/4" wide brim curved upward on left side and downward on right side. One inch wide black grosgrain ribbon hat band that ties in a bow on right side. Lined in white netting with white grosgrain inner headband. Inside crown stamped: "Feutre / Fléchet" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305389/
Hat
Hat of black silk organza. Shallow crown with 5" wide, down-turned brim. Brim covered with large organza overlapping petals. Lined in net with black grosgrain inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305332/
Hat
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30132/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30164/
Hat
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30161/
Hat
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30163/
Hat
Hat of black silk chiffon. The hat is formed from a cylindrical pillbox style hat surmounted by a conical section that is folded back and flares out to form an extension behind the hat. Where the surmounting piece meets the pillbox is a black bow formed from the same cloth. Inside of crown is lined in stiff black netting, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the base of the crown. A small plastic comb is sewn in front of hat to inner ribbon to secure it to wearer's head. No labels. The donor records that "... Balenciaga showed it with dress and sleeveless coat..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30135/
Hat
Cossack-style hat of brown sable fur. Lined, with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Designer label sewn to headband: "Balenciaga / 10. Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330438/
Hat
Cossack-style hat of brown sable fur. Lined, with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Designer label sewn to headband: "Balenciaga / 10. Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330536/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk faille. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and has one large ruby red silk rose at center front of the side. Lined in black satin, with a single comb inside to secure hat to wearer's head. No label in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305384/
Pillbox Hat
Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner band is a plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa". The jeweled ornament is attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. Donor notes of this hat: "...to wear with short black cocktail dresses." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30150/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black silk tulle and satin in the form of a low pillbox of black silk tulle, tapering slightly to the shallow-domed crown. On the right side is a cascade of dyed green ostrich feathers. No designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30179/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece suit of black and ivory plaid wool with black silk blouse. (a) Jacket: Short unfitted jacket of black and ivory windowpane plaid wool; V-neckline with standard notched collar and short lapels.;3/4 length sleeves cut in one with jacket body supplemented by single triangular gusset under arm; lapped centerfront opening with three round, plastic, ivory buttons and bound buttonholes; front has a large pair of faux pocket flaps at lower chest level; fully lined in white silk. (b) Blouse: Semi-fitted short black silk faille blouse with jewel neckline; 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with blouse body and supplemented by single triangular shaped gusset under arm; centerfront opening laps left over right with four round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with one snap at neck; folded hem; facings and hem interfaced with black silk organza. Label stitched at bottom of back neck facing. (c) Skirt: Matching plaid semi-tailored, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; slight gathers at front waist; offset left side front zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure on waistband; folded hem; fully lined in white silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30115/
Toque
Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30134/
Dress
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/
Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851" From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30084/
Mini Dress
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined. Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87026/
Cocktail Suit
Cocktail suit of black silk satin consisting of: A) Waist-length jacket formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. Center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style number tag beneath designer's label: "10967" B) Matching mid-length skirt of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. Three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. Skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283774/
Skirt Suit
Suit of cream/blue/pink wool boucle. A) Waist-length jacket with round neckline and no collar, two-piece set-in long sleeves, four patch pockets on front, and center-front opening with 5 circular sculptural lion-head gold-tone metal buttons. Matching non-functional buttons sewn on each pocket and on cuffs. Neckline, opening, cuffs, and top edges of pockets with rolled(?) edging. Fully lined in pink silk. Inside bottom hemline weighted with gold chain. No labels. B) Skirt of same material. Below-knee-length. Slim, almost straight, flaring slightly to hem. Narrow waistband with two hook-and-eye closures, just above zipper closure. Lined in pink silk. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283772/
Skirt Suit
Two piece day suit. a) Jacket of burnt orange, moss green, and burgundy wool bouclé. Round neckline. Burnt orange braid at collar, center front and hem. Cuffs trimmed in rope braid and reversed side bouclé inserts. Faux french-cuffs of silk ikat taffeta at end of sleeves. 4 buttons covered with red silk and boarded with reverse of bouclé wool. Center front extension of reversed bouclé and buttons holes in seam, not welt. Patch pockets with V-shaped detail using matching trim, lined in ikat silk. Back hem weighed down by gilt, heavy chain. Designers Label inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style Number tag on back of Designer's Label: "09603" Attached hanging tag: "Made in France" Retailer's Label in Front Right Hem: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Skirt of wool bouclé in 3/4 length. Back zipper with hook & eyes. Narrow waistband of red silk. Front panel lined in red silk. Hemmed with 2" wide orange hem lace. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283703/
Dress
Dress of turquoise colored sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice. Lines of horizontal top stitching over body of dress. Two front patch pockets. Center front decorative short, white, plastic zipper. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Knee length, but hem has been removed. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france" Style number stamped on designer's label:"0078019" Care instruction/fabric content tag attached to bottom of designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283747/
Pantsuit
Pantsuit of orange and ivory polyester double knit. a) Blouse has Peter Pan collar and full yoke of ivory polyester. Orange knit fitted bodice has cap sleeves. Flares slightly below waist. Self fabric belt buckles around hips. Zipper CB. Designer label removed. b) Orange hip-hugger pants are straight legged, stopping above ankles. Overlapping hook and eye closure. Zipper CF. Entire suit is lined in white polysatin. Designer's label at inside center back: "Courreges / Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France 0" Retailer's label: "Made in France / Exclusively for / Bonwit Teller" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286883/
Skirt
White leather mini-skirt with 4 applied black leather bands running horizontally around skirt. White leather suspenders attached at back, cross at back, and run over shoulders to fasten at circular white leather-covered buttons on waistband in front. Fully lined in white nylon. Shirt does not fit tight at waist. Pictured with black knit turtle-neck top, long-sleeves. Designer's label: "Courreges / Exclusively Designed in / Leather and Fabric for / Samuel Robert" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286823/
Evening Pumps
Pair of reddish-pink or coral silk satin evening pumps. Square toe shoes which have a large open area on the vamp which is backed by clear plastic and edged by braid. The plastic is overlaid with a metal net or chain mail with rhinestones at the intersections. 2 1/4" square heel covered with same material. Lined in off-white/gray leather. Stamped inside each shoe: "Made in Italy / Espressly / For / Lou Lattimore" (Espressly rather than Expressly); and "Creation Mancini / Paris / Waltea made in Italy" Stamped on sole of each shoe: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277042/
Hat
Hat of gray suede. Designed as a modified fedora, the high, domed crown is lightly creased from front to back, and is encircled at its base by a narrow hatband of the same suede, with trailing ribbons. The medium-width brim is of the same suede, and slopes slightly to the outer edge. The brim is lined in the same suede, while the crown is lined in black fabric, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330392/
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