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 Country: United States
 Decade: 1920-1929
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Gloves
Pair of gloves of ivory colored leather. On back of each glove is a stitched swirl design of 5 ribs. The gloves widen to end with piped hems, and extend to about mid-forearm. Appears to be a youth size. Stamped inside gloves: A) "ARIS" logo in hemisphere; "U.S. Pat. / Aug. 22'22"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. B) "5 3/4"; "U.S. Pat. / Sept 19'22 / Made in Germany"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87118/
Cloche
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39099/
Hat
Hat of gray velvet. The domed crown is made from six segments of gray velvet, sewn in bands extending from front to back. The brim, of matching felt, is set off-center to the crown, giving more brim in front than back. The front of the brim turns up somewhat, and has an embellishment of long dark brown feathers extending along the brim from a dark brown velvet bow set on the underside of the brim. The hat is lined in a bronze brown crepe, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge of the crown. A small contrasting stitch on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's/Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39179/
Cloche
Cloche style hat of beige crocheted straw. The rounded crown with tucks and folds is created of beige straw which has been crocheted. Around base of crown is band of dark brown piping. Shallow brim is turned up around sides and back, with wide edge band of brown satin with parallel rows of stitching. Front of brim has radiating ridges worked into straw. Hat is lined with dark beige satin. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Budwig / Ltd." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39117/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The hat, for day wear, has a domed black felt crown. On either side of the crown is a large black velvet bow with trailing ribbons. The black felt brim is set off-center, providing for more brim at front of hat and less at back. The front of the brim curves up, and is faced in black velvet. The front half of the hat has a black veil with scattered "dots" in the netting. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. A small stitched star on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39175/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. The hemispherical crown has a three-quarter brim of the same felt, curving back to the crown, and forming a roll at edge. The hat is designed to sit back on the head, allowing the front brim to extend vertically. Along the line where crown and brim join is affixed a veil of gray netting, with small "fuzzy" pieces attached at some intersections. Attached to the front of the brim, on the outside of the veil, is an artificial bird made of real brown and green feathers, with a ring of simulated pearls around its neck. The eyes of the bird are simulated pearls. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon along base of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made". Supplier's mark stamped inside crown, consisting of a shield containing a coat of arms and the word "Ruth", with "Made in Czechoslovakia" below the shield. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39176/
Child's Slip
Infant's slip of cream wool. Sleeveless with snap opening at shoulders. Trimmed with ivory blanket stitch embroidery around neckline, arm openings and around scalloped hemline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87059/
Infant's Slip
Slip for an infant of white cotton. Sleeveless. White work embroidery at neck and hem. Narrow lace edging at neck and armholes with wider lace edging at hemline. Two button closure at center back neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87056/
Infant's Jacket
Infant's jacket of cream colored wool twill. One piece construction. Edges trimmed with ivory blanket stitch embroidery. Open on sides. Closed with ivory ribbons at neck and under arms. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87058/
Cloche
Cloche of pale green straw and orange velvet. Domed crown of the cloche-style hat is overlaid with orange/red velvet leaf shapes. Around the sides of the crown are applied overlapping circular panels of pale green braided straw. On the left side of hat a single straw panel is placed low so that half of it hangs below the crown. Inside of hat is lined with peach silk. Designer's label inside crown: "Dauphine / Paris / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39122/
Crocheted Cap
Crocheted cap of brown cotton yarn styled as a pillbox. The hemispherical crown is flat at top and slopes to base. The hat has no brim and is unlined. Stuck through the sides of the crown are two brass hatpins formed as over-sized hairpins. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114817/
Cloche
Cloche of black velour. The domed crown is of "crumpled" black velour encircled at the base by a band of silver ribbon. The narrow brim is curled up at the edge and sides, and is lined with a multicolored brocade with metallic threads as accents. On right side of hat, near base of crown, is a large pompom of black feathers. Set near the pompom is a pin of black composition/plastic and silvered metal in the form of a hook (partly missing?). The crown of the hat is lined with greyish silk embroidered in gold. Maker's and Retailer's label embroidered inside crown: "Paris New York / Jaccard / Hats / Made expressly for / Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Paper label stapled to lining: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas, - Texas / 226-1 / 10-26 / $35.00 / 30.00" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39124/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of gold metallic brocade in a floral motif with multicolored rectangles. Cocoon-style, with white fox collar, the full-length barrel sleeves with matching fur trimmed cuffs. The coat has a single button closure, and pink silk satin lining. Label: "Hattie Moss, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29999/
Headband
Headband of black felt. The hat is designed to fit across the top of the head, coming to a rounded point on left side, and with an enlarged circular end on the left which sits higher on the head. The headband is "peaked" along the length, adding height to wearer. Designer's label sewn inside: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277141/
Cloche
Cloche hat covered in appliqued velvet leaves. The cloche hat has a domed crown completely covered with vari-colored velvet leaves/blossoms in shades of pink, red, green, gold, fuchsia, brown, purple, etc. At base of crown is tied a fuchsia velvet ribbon with bow with ribbons trailing at right. Slight brim below ribbon, which extends downwards. The hat is lined in pink/fuchsia lace, and has an inner purple/mauve grosgrain ribbon hatband inside base of crown. Sewn into inner ribbon hatband is retailer's label: "Stern and Mann / Millinery. Received with a period white-painted wooden hat-stand. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39202/
Cloche
Cloche hat of royal blue velvet and silver lace. The cylindrical crown is of royal blue velvet, slightly domed and slightly "crushed". The top panel of the crown is of silver lace over a dark fabric. Around the sides of the crown, nearer the top than the base, is a horizontal band of the same silver lace. The shallow brim is constructed of the royal blue velvet and overlaid with the silver lace, which extends beyond the edge of the velvet. The crown is lined in a cream/iridescent satin; most of the underside of the brim is lined with blue velvet. Maker's label embroidered to center inner lining panel of crown: [pseudo coat of arms] "The Denver Dry Goods Co. / Paris New York / Denver", with small embroidered "FRONT" indicating the front of the hat. Retailer's label sewn to inner side of crown: "Parisian / Abilene, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39107/
Pumps
Heeled pumps of black leather. Vamp has shaped leather segment simulating a buckle, embellished with cut steel bead trim. Narrow 2 1/4" high Boulevard-style heel covered in black leather. Marked in each shoe: "6 1/2 AA B 85814 / 2418" Label in right shoe: "Special / Measurements / By W.B. Coon Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114830/
Hat
Hat of ecru lace and black horsehair. The high, slightly domed crown is formed of ecru lace, with a black satin ribbon bow to side, and a black satin band around the base of the crown, partly obscured by the lace. The wide, undulating black horsehair brim is oval, wider to sides than front to back. Inside of crown originally lined with fine, transparent black tulle, remains of which form an inner hatband at inside base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / della Donna / New York". Intended for afternoon wear. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39150/
Bonnet
Bonnet. High domed cylindrical crown is made of artificial material simulating straw or horsehair in a lose weave forming concentric rings. The crown has applied standing bands of the woven material and has applique of flowers and leaves in various colors of velvet. Tied around base of crown is a pink silk band. The wide oval brim is of the same material as the crown, set so that it is wider side-to-side and narrower from front-to-back. The outer edge of the underside of the brim has a lining of pleated blue silk(?) ribbon. The crown of the hat is lined in pink fabric. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39182/
Bonnet
Bonnet of multicolored fruit print cotton. Eyelet lace trimmed edges. Stiff brim and ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39209/
Bonnet
Infant's bonnet of ivory silk with ruched brim. Pink rosebuds embellish brim. Smocking on back of crown. Lined in pin-tucked gauze. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87051/
Bonnet
Child's bonnet of peach colored, gathered silk crepe with tiny silk ribbons and flowers. Mint green silk velvet ribbon ties. Lined in white cotton gauze. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114969/
Cloche
Cloche hat of burnt sienna-colored straw. The high domed crown of woven straw is decorated with flowers and leaves formed by embroidering and couching, but using fine brown and cream cloth rather than thread. The brown fabric flowers have beaded centers. The very narrow brim of matching straw is turned up at front, and edged with brown fabric and bound with dark golden yellow threads. The hat is lined in fine black cloth, through which can be seen the inner stitching of the "embroidery". There are no designer, maker, or retailer labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39115/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige/dull dusty rose pink rayon faille. The domed crown is crated from a folded/draped and seamed piece of fabric with dark brown braid and light tan and metallic cord. At front of hat is very short brim decorated with brown grosgrain ribbon forming overlapping sections as the ends of a bow. Hat is lined in a red/coral fabric. There are no maker or designer labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39111/
Cloche
Cloche of beige straw. The domed crown is of Milan straw in a small braid. The wide brim is folded up against the hat, and is formed of similar straw work but in concentric bands of beige and darker brown, forming horizontal stripes across the forehead of the hat. Around the base of the crown, visible from sides and back, is a wide band of cream/beige grosgrain ribbon. A pleated "arrow" of the same ribbon is affixed at right temple, extending up and back along the side of the crown. Inside of crown lined in cream/beige fabric. No designer's, maker's, or retailer's labels in item. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39114/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige straw. The cloche is based on a Phrygian cap, although lacking the forward-pointing section at top. It is of crocheted beige straw thread. The crown is rounded, coming to a gentle point at to, and with sides that extend downwards to cover the ears. At the front is a crescent-shaped panel of printed chiffon which extends back and down sides of hat. The panel is printed with an abstract floral/foliate design in greens, reds, blues, and golds on a beige ground. Outlining the printed design is applied beige and gold cording, which are couched and sewn to the panel. The sides of the hat are embellished with vertical tucks, and the back has sections turned up and sewn to the crown. The hat is lined in a peach satin. Sewn inside crown is brand label: "Sheila / The Perfect Hat". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39119/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige straw. The high, domed crown is created of fine beige straw which has been crocheted. At the base of the crown is a wide band of beige grosgrain ribbon edged with a very thin ribbon band, with a finely pleated section to one side. The cloche has a small brim, mostly down-turned. Over the entire crown and brim is sewn thin "ribbon" bands in a different type and shade of straw, forming several large leaf forms and filling the rest of the space with scrolling decoration. The interiors of the leaf forms are hand-painted in blue, purple, brown and green. The interior of the crown is lined in a tan/copper fabric, and the underside of the brim is lined in a cream fabric. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39116/
Cloche
Cloche hat of straw. The high, domed straw is crown of sienna-red braid, with a band of solid reddish-pink silk around the base. Below the silk band is multi-colored ruched trim extending less than 1/4" from the band. Below the trim is a brim covered by sienna grosgrain ribbon, extending very slightly in front and disappearing in back. The hat is lined in a metallic bronze fabric. No designer's or retailer's labels, but hat does retain original price tag inside crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39113/
Cloche
Cloche of beige silk. The domed brim is of beige silk top-stitched and quilted to a base of grayish felt. The stitching is in the form of repeated and spiraling lines. At base of crown is wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon with bow at front. The brim is of the same material as crown, is shallow, and turns downward. It frames the face, with triangular extensions at sides. Hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39121/
Cloche
Cloche of rose straw. The high, rounded crown is of finely braided rose/pink colored straw. At one side is an applique in green, beige, peach, and brown of a stylized floral design in silk taffeta with colored straw detailing and outlines. Around the base of the crown is a segment of rose satin quilted with lines of copper and tan straw, turned up at front to form a brim and turned downwards at back. The hat is lined in an iridescent red satin. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39120/
Cloche
Cloche hat of lace and velvet. The deep, domed crown is of peach satin (?) overlaid with a silver metallic lace. At the front of the crown are applied leaf shapes of dark pink velvet that form a fan-motif. The lowest leaves on each side extend to become a shallow brim for the hat, also formed of the dark pink velvet. The leaves and the brim are quilted with metallic silver stitching. The hat is lined in pink satin(?). Label sewn inside crown: "Pittsburgh / Character Hats / New York / Trade Mark Reg. / U.S. Pat. Office" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39174/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan straw. The high, domed crown is of woven tan straw in a spiraling pattern. On either side of the crown is an applique in blue, pink/gray, and black felt of an arc or half-circle. On one side, the arc points up, on the other side it points down. Around the base of the crown is a narrow band of black felt. The brim is also of woven straw, upturned at sides and edged with black felt. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze/gold fabric, now very shattered. Inside the crown is stitched an ornate label, with a view of two women playing tennis and the inscription: "Berkeley / Made in / California". A small arrow and the word "Front" indicates the front of the hat. Attached to an inner seam of the lining is size label "22". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39067/
Cloche
Cloche hat of black silk velvet. The rigid crown has a flattened top, and sides formed of gathers of the velvet forming horizontal ridges. The brim is a soft, gathered and padded "ruffle" of the same velvet. The hat is lined in a black satin. Sewn inside crown is retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39068/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige felt. The high, domed crown is of dark beige/brownish felt, pulled and gathered to create texture at top back. The brim, of the same felt, is narrow, curving down at sides and up at back. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon, which passes through slots in the upturned back section of the brim. At the side of the hat, the ribbon is gathered slightly, and has three segments that extend forward around the crown, fanning upwards to partly cover the front of the hat. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze fabric. In crown of hat is ornate embroidered label consisting of an oval surmounted by a device with triple ostrich plumes; small coats of arms at the ends of the oval, and the text " Imported / Amhat / Chiffon Felt", with inscription below: "Reg. U.S. Patent Office". Attached inside base of crown is original paper tag: "Berlin / Amhat / New York" and "Triste / Imported / Chiffon Felt". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39064/
Cloche
Cloche-type hat of blue-green velvet. An early example of the cloche hat, it has a narrow up-turned brim. All around the crown is floral decoration carried out in beading, applique, and embroidery. Also with thin lines of gold thread sewn throughout. The edges of the brim are similarly decorated. Remains of silk lining. Original cataloging indicates the had had a Sanger Bros., Dallas, price tag inside marked $35, on sale for $30. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30068/
Dress
Dress of navy wool gabardine in two parts. The main body of the tubular-shaped dress is full-length, sleeveless, with a round neckline. It has decorative bead-work at upper bust, on back at shoulders and down spine, in a line from right hip down to hem, and around hem. The bead-work includes lines of red and clear beads, spirals and "bursts" of clear and red beads, circular ornaments of red beads, and a roundel at front to bottom right at hem of a scene of a wine jug against a blue, clear and green background. The dress has an opening from left shoulder to waist which is secured with a line of hidden snaps, and is decorated with nine cloth and plastic circular non-functioning buttons arranged in groups of three. The dress is unlined. The dress has with it a detachable cropped camisole of white cotton with center front hook-and-eyes closure and white elastic waistband. The sleeves of the camisole are of navy wool gabardine, bell-shaped, and match the dress. They are decorated with the same style bead-work as the dress, including lines of red and clear beads running from shoulders to wrist, clear and red beaded spirals and "bursts", and roundels with designs in blue, red, and green. When worn, the camisole sleeves blend in with the dress and look like one garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30119/
Evening Shoes
Pair of cream satin sling-back evening shoes with leather embellishments. The shoes, designed with rounded toes, are in a modified D'Orsay pump style, with sides cut back. Plain cream satin uppers are edged with wide bands/stripes of gold and silver metallic leather. 2" high heel, slightly set-in, tapering slightly to base. Stamped inside: "Saks / Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114894/
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular silver art deco openwork frame set with tiny marcasites and circular cabochon black stones (onyx?). Bag is of black silk velvet. Handle of black silk velvet with two silver rings set with marcasites. Lined with dusty pink ribbed silk, and containing a small rectangular mirror. Marked on frame: "MD" in a square; Diamond shaped mark with an M over a K; and an illegible shield-shaped punch. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30047/
Hat
Hat of lavender horsehair overlaid with lace and velvet. The daytime hat has a high, domed crown of braided/woven horsehair. Around the sides of the crown is a band of pale lavender velvet overlaid with a band of dark blue velvet, which itself is partly overlaid by pale blue lace. Around the back of the crown is a band of pale blue velvet, a section of which is also at the base of the crown at the front of the hat. The brim is of the same horsehair, and stitched up in back to create the effect of having the brim extend around sides and front, but not the back. The brim is overlaid with lace as the crown. At left side of hat, along base of crown, is a small embellishment consisting of two tubular beads and three circular beads set with rhinestones. The hat is lined in blue satin. Retailer's(?) paper label attached inside crown at back: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas - Texas", with original price of $20.00. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39151/
Hat
Hat of red velvet and bronze/green gold gauze. Hat is styled as a turban, the crown of red velvet with various folds and puffs. Around the sides of the crown are braided bands of the same velvet and of a bronze/green gold gauze, giving the edge of the hat the appearance of being a turban wound in two different fabrics. Original lining missing(?), revealing the inner lining of loosely woven white fabric stitched to hold the folds and bands of cloth. No designer's, maker's, or retailer's labels in the item. Item may be of either British or American manufacture. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39125/
Hat
Hat of sienna/reddish silk taffeta. Styled somewhat as a cloche, the cylindrical crown is "collapsed", creating the effect that it has been partly flattened, with horizontal creasing. Top of crown is flat. Around the sides is horizontal bands of stitching in gold metallic thread. Appliqued to the front and sides of the hat are velvet blossoms and leaves in greens, rust reds/oranges, etc. At base of crown is a band of rubbed rust red/orange. The narrow brim is lined in same rust red/orange velvet, and is turned up at back allowing it to be seen. The crown is lined in a golden orange satin fabric. No labels in item. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39123/
Hat
Hat of burnt orange/rust colored straw. The domed crown is of finely woven burnt orange/rust colored straw with secondary horizontal bands of slightly larger strands woven into the base material. At its base, the crown curves in, under, down and out, creating a "mushroom" effect, with the main part of the crown as the "cap", and a smaller section of "stalk" below. The oval brim is of the same woven straw, and set off-center to the crown, creating a much wider brim at sides and back, and a smaller brim in front. The edge of the brim is edged in coarl colored silk. The hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39104/
Hat
Hat of blue straw. The hat is of finely woven blue straw, having a crown styled somewhat as a cloche, high, rounded, and somewhat irregular, curving inward at base. The crown has several applied blue straw 3-lobed bows scattered over the surface. The brim is of dark blue crepe over a fine white straw mesh base (visible only from inside crown), the crepe also covering the lower part of the crown. The brim is set off-center to crown, with wider section to front and narrower sections at back and sides. Applied to the crepe are several of the 3-lobed straw bows and two bordering bands near edge of brim, consisting of thin woven bands of blue straw. The underside of the brim is covered with the blue crepe, while the inside of the crown is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39103/
Hat
Hat of red purple/plum silk velvet. The hat has elements of a turban, tam-o-shanter, and beret. It is made with an oversized crown of red purple or plum velvet, gathered, caught, and draped, pulling under and then back out to form a brim that does not extend as far as the billows of fabric from the crown. The fabric is embellished with running lines of matching chenille, and clusters of silver-gray painted wooden beads. The hat is lined in black satin. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Pogue / Cincinnati". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39069/
Hat
Hat of brown straw. Based on a boater, the hat has a crown of woven brown straw, somewhat domed, and somewhat "mushroom shaped", extending out over the sides of the crown. Around the base of the crown is a band of brown and tan silk ribbon, which has been unraveled. To one side of the crown is affixed a large pink/patterned silk crepe flower. The wide brim curls slightly at edge, and is trimmed at edge with the same unraveled ribbon. The crown is partly lined in black fabric with drawstring closure at top to adjust fit. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39238/
Hat
Black nylon hat. Domed, cylindrical crown has an irregularly-shaped brim, very narrow at left side, extending out and down in back, very wide and turning up in a triangular section at right side, and extending outwards at front. The turned-up section is embellished with simulated jet beading in a stylized floral pattern. The hat is lined in black nylon. Stamped inside crown: "Patricia / Model Hats / New York and Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39072/
Hat
Headwrap of blue chiffon with band of tan mink fur centered with white rhinestone clasp as trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114893/
Hat
Cloche hat of blue-green velvet. An early example of the cloche hat, it has a narrow up-turned brim. All around the crown is floral decoration carried out in beading, applique, and embroidery. Also with thin lines of gold thread sewn throughout. The edges of the brim are similarly decorated. Remains of silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39148/
Infant's Jacket
Infant's jacket or capelet of cream wool. Open on the sides with pink ribbon ties at neck and underarms. Trimmed around the edges with blanket stitch embroidery. Front flaps decorated with french knots and daisy stitch flowers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87057/
Pumps
Pumps of black satin and black kid leather. Vamp with cutwork in leather forming a modified sunray or comet design centered on circular metal button set with rhinestones. The cutwork is embellished with black jet beadwork. Louis XV style heels covered in black satin. Stamped inside one shoe in gold, partly illegible: "Kasson's / Knickerbocker / Cincinnati" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30028/
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