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 Decade: 1940-1949
 Year: 1940
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283672/
Jacket
Jacket of navy blue wool crepe. Asymmetrically trimmed with pleated band falling from right shoulder, secured with white buckle at waistline. Self belt at waist with matching white buckle. Long sleeved with pleated diagonal at lower right sleeve. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283688/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material. The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe. Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original" The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283771/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of brownish grey worsted wool in black, white, and warm grey. Jacket of self-worsted wool with notched collar and rounded lapels that extend beyond collar; open front trimmed in half-circle lapels at opening with brass disc button accents; 4 buttons on each side decreasing in diameter to bottom; wide, elbow-length sleeves with 3” cuffs; small shoulder pads within; fully lined in brown chiffon; waist-length. Skirt of matching self-worsted wool is gored with long reverse pleat at center-front surrounded by 2 shorter reverse pleats at each side; slight A-line; hits below knees. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Original customer label(?): "James L. Courtney" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283697/
Calotte Hat
Oval, calotte style hat of faded rose tucked satin with fabric flowers and petals in matching color. Flower at front of hat trimmed with small satin bow at center. Retailer's label on inside back headband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114993/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. The flat crown is surmounted by an arrangement of artificial lily-of-the-valley, with green cloth leaves and cloth and wire flowers/stems. From the back of the hat descends a black velvet snood to catch up the wearer's hair. Designer's label sewn into back of snood: "Yvonne Boutin / 510 Madison Ave, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39230/
Hat
Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk. Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277011/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of reddish brown straw. Low, cylindrical, slightly tilted crown is flattened at top and encircled at base by wide gray grosgrain ribbon which divides into three tiers of streamers cascading at back. Wide floppy brim. Reddish brown inner grosgrain ribbon hatband and black elastic cord to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / INC." Retailer's label at inner hatband: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277133/
Blouse
Blouse of navy blue wool. Wide, boat neckline with inner wide white pique lining which folds over dark plum(?) facing of wool collar, to become shawl collar. Double breasted, with three pair of circular black buttons and single hook-and-eye at waist. Sleeveless, with slight "cap" effect caused by wide shoulders darting, and deep diagonal line of sides. Raised waist and flaring peplum. Unlined. Inner structure augmented with satin ribbons sewn to help hold structure of bodice. Designer's label at inside lower left seam: "Renée Collard / Paris" Retailer's label overlapping lower edge of designer's label: "Janga / 98 Faubg St Honoré Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795237/
Hat
Hat of light brown felt and black voile. The domed crown is of light brown felt, curving slightly and extending outwards at front. Mounted at front is a large leaf-shape of fine black voile with black thread veining and wired edge. The leaf from is sculptural, with the wired edge curved and bent. At side of leaf is a spray of yellow feathers and black ribbon. Hat is unlined, with inner light brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label (stating reproduction: "Reproduction Autorisee de / Janette Colombier / 4 Avenue Matignon / Paris" Maker's label: "Fifth Avenue / G Howard Hodge / New York" Maker's label for felt body: "Gaby / Made / In / Czechoslovakia" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87091/
Hat
Hat in modified renaissance style of black crochet net. Flat, circular crown of net gathered under crown from temples draping to shoulder length. Inside hatband of black grosgrain. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Lilly Dache Paris 78 East 58th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114946/
Hat
Turban of black and red print fabric with large draped pouf at top in bow shape. Headband of same drapes around back of top pouf, hangs over forehead and knots in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain headband. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." Size label: "22 1/4" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114987/
Hat
Hat of black broadtail fur with high, rounded crown and narrow, curved brim. Wide, black grosgrain ribbon as hatband forms bow at side. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché / Paris New York" Crown stamped: "Featherlite / Brand" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114985/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Cloche style crown of black felt, domed, has high front structure of 7 multi-colored artificial roses of reds, greens, blues, and peach velvet. No brim. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39074/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39144/
Turban
Turban style hat of black and pink striped satin with stuffed stand up pleated pouf in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché Paris / 78 East 58th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114786/
Pillbox Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87088/
Pumps
Pumps of dark brown suede and brown alligator. Designed with a rounded toe, the uppers are of dark brown suede with toe-cap and heels of brown alligator. The modified Cuban heel is covered with brown alligator. Designer's stamp in left shoe: "Delman / Made entirely by hand" Retailer's stamp in right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Handwritten note in each shoe: "2P67046 54 / 8a" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701384/
Sling-Back Evening Pumps
Pair of heeled sling-back evening pumps of silvered and painted leather. Designed with somewhat sharply rounded open toes, the shoes have an all-over design of yellow hand-painted "scales" on the silvered leather that look as if large silver scrolls are applied over a ground of yellow/golden scales. The vamp has a central hole surrounded by a ring of 8 applied silvered leather discs with a cluster of hand-painted yellow dots at center of each. The edge of vamp is cut in a gentle "pointed arch" shape. Ankle strap of plain silvered leather, secured with oval gilt metal buckle set with tiny rhinestones. The 2 1/4" boulevard heel is covered with the same hand-painted silvered leather as the rest of the shoe. Designer's stamp in right shoe: "Delman / New York Chicago London Paris" Retailer's stamp in left shoe: "Bergdorf / Goodman" Handwritten in each shoe: "B80784 / S9474Sx / 5 vN / 821" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701417/
Hat
Hat of ultramarine blue felt. Based on a top hat, the cylindrical high crown has an undulating upper edge. Small brim curls up at front and sides, but curls down at back, ending in a point. Around base of crown is wide blue grosgrain ribbon which trails off back of hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. A thin black elastic strap goes around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn into inner band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114797/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. Formed as Juliet cap, the hatlet has a crown of black velvet formed as a stiff low dome with shaped edge creating triangular points at front, back, and each side. At each side of the crown is an applied matching velvet bow with trailing ends. The hat is overlaid with black netting, with small black plastic circles worked into the veil's mesh. The hat is lined in blue cloth, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39183/
Hat
Hat of fine mauve straw and artificial flowers. Designed as a "boater", the low cylindrical crown is of woven fine mauve straw with a slightly sunken, inset flat top. Around the base of the crown is a wreath of artificial flowers, including red roses, and small blossoms in pale green and mauve, which is tied at back with a thin green velvet ribbon bow with trailing ends. From below the wreath extends a net mesh veil, which covers the narrow, flat brim, and hangs down. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Nat Frank / New York" Size label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87066/
Hat
Beret style hat of navy and white woven straw. Ribbon flower hangs off side of hat with small flag of orange grosgrain ribbon on top of stem. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon with extension at back of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York" Retailer's label at inside headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87047/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue and white. The crown of the hat is formed of two hollow teardrop shapes, set with points overlapping, of a coarse navy blue fabric edged in dark blue plastic or vinyl piping. Extending from the point of each teardrop is a partly unrolled cone of the same material with an inner white/cream lining. Extending from the open end of each cone are single segments of the piping. The hatlet is overlaid with blue netting/veiling with a wide mesh and with scattered pairs of blue and white beads affixed to intersections of the mesh. The underside of the hatlet is lined in blue grosgrain ribbon, and has two small elastic cords holding two small plastic combs to secure the hatlet to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" and an applied label with handwritten "318" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38129/
Hat
Hat of tan felt. Style resembles a garrison cap. Inner headband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Maker's label on inside headband: "Jacqueline / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114801/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled as a tricorne, the crown is of black felt, flattened at top. The wide brim is set off-center to the crown, with more of the brim at sides and front than back. The brim is curled up and in at sides and back, forming a triangular shape, with point at the front. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon along inside bottom edge of crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Jacqueline / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39081/
Hat
Hat of brown felt. Styled similarly to an Alpine hat, the crown is of dark brown felt, with a triangular cross-section and flattened and "sunken" top. Around the base of the crown is a band of light brown grosgrain ribbon with one trailing end extending along brim to edge. The medium brim curves downwards at front, and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of light brown grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Jacqueline / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39090/
Hat
Hat of black felt with high crown. Black jersey used as hatband in front; passes through slits at base of crown and loops under chin. Asymmetrical brim is wider and dips slightly in front and narrows and flips up in back. Unlined with cream colored silk inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's stamp on inside headband: "Knox / Fifth Ave. New York" Retailer's stamp on inside headband: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas, Texas" Size/style number label under inside headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39080/
Hat
Hat of deep green felt in modified alpine style. High crown with 2 bows of self as trim. Folded brim around front and sides of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with green grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lorie" Retailer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." Size tag: "registered model / 22 1/2" Paper price tag: "53-4 / 20.00" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39091/
Hat
Hat of cream and gray striped fabric. Low, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At back of crown is band of vertically pleated band of same fabric, which extends to edge of brim. Narrow asymmetrical brim, wider in front. At back of brim is cream bow of thick velvet "string" with trailing ends. Underside of brim lined in cream velvet which extends up to edge the brim. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Lydia / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87046/
Hat
Hat of black chenille yarn. High crown; wide brim curls up. Unlined. Maker's label: "Original Design / by / Madcaps / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39088/
Boater
Boater-style hat of off-white straw. The whole hat is of straw woven into shell-shaped segments, connected to form the body of the hat. The cylindrical crown has a flat top, and is encircled at the base by a black velvet ribbon. At either side of the crown are large black velvet bows. The flat, oval brim follows the outline of the crown, and is partly overlaid by a fine black mesh veil with long, trailing ends that are long enough to tie under the wearer's chin. The underside of the brim is edged in black velvet, and there is a black velvet strap which extends down from either side to help secure hat to wearer's head. The hat is lined with a fine white mesh, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Labels sewn into inner hatband: "Marché Hats / Paris New York"; Also sewn into inner hatband is second label, "Consumers' Protection Label / 784619". Hand-written on velvet chinstrap: "59389" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39076/
Hat
Afternoon hat of crushed and draped velvet. Brim of dark purple, crown of wine. Purple brim extends to point at side. Self cording trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in wine colored silk. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Marguerite & Leonie / 4 . Rue des Carucines" Label attached below designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114881/
Hat
Hat of brown felt in modified beret-style. Crown is draped with a band of pearls as trim on right side. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label: "Haute Mode / Michèle / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277119/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat in taupe felt. Slightly flared brim. Trimmed at front with red feather bird. Green and black coque feathers drape from front over back of hat. Beige colored veil on front. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Milgrim" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114995/
Hat
Hat in modified sailor style of navy blue straw. Medium height crown is domed at top and has straight front edge and rounded back edge. Around the crown is a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon with flat bow at back. Brim is circular, set off-center so more brim is at front of hat than back. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain band around inside of crown. Affixed at inside back of hat is small puff of black netting. Affixed to inner band is elastic loop to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside lower edge of crown: "Germaine Montabert" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114822/
Hat
Hat of natural straw. Low domed crown and very wide brim. Tight weave with decorative open weave about 1.5 inches from brim. Around crown is a heavy gold braided ribbon set with spaced rhinestones and large rhinestone where ribbon diverts from crown. Ends of ribbon extend in back to hang off of brim. Off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside crown. Label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Edna Mye / Dallas". Marked inside crown of hat: "by Hawes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402507/
Day Dress
Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined. Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402484/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black straw, net, and velvet. The hatlet is based on a metal underframe shaped as an open circle, wrapped, on which are set six black straw pompom forms set in a circle about 6" in diameter. At center of circle is a bow of narrow black velvet ribbon with 4 extending trailing ribbons. The whole is set on a circular veil of black mesh net. Designer's label: "Norman-Pualvin / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87070/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of light purple felt in teardrop shape. Decorated in bunches of purple and magenta felt grapes with leaves of green felt. Rose colored tie bow at back. Hat covered in purple net with chenille balls. Black grosgrain headband. Manufacture's label on inside headband: "Northridge Inc. / 1 W. 57th St. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114994/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39152/
Beret
Beret made of light blue knitted chenille yarn. Designer's label: "Frank Olive" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114784/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat made of light blue knitted chenille yarn. Bow of same on side. Designer's label on inside at back: "Frank Olive" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114783/
Pumps
Single pump of brown and white suede. Designed as a sling-back spectator pump, the shoe has a 1/4" high brown leather platform and a rounded open toe. The toe box is of brown suede, and is decorated with scrolling lines of perforations, and has a border of perforations. The rest of the upper is of white suede, with an upper border of perforations, is cut-away a the heel, and has a single strap that goes around back of heel and secures with a and a small buckle. The 3 3/4" high heel is covered in brown leather, and tapers to base. Designer's label: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" 2nd Designer's label: "Palter De Liso / Capri / Last" Handwritten notation: "6 1/2B / S469b5 / 7410-2 BH" ONE ONLY - for left foot. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114989/
Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of black patent leather sling back pumps. Designed with slightly pointed rounded peep toes, the vamps are composed of two triangular panels of leather which join at points on instep, the join a diamond-shape of leather with circular center hole. The peep toe and the throat edged in black grosgrain ribbon. The sides near the toe-box are cut low, and flair back into the sling-back strap, which has a small black rectangular buckle. Modified French heel is covered with same black patent leather, and tapers almost to a thick "spike" heel shape. Designer's stamps inside shoes: Left shoe: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" Both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Dresden Last" Retailer's label sewn into right shoe: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" Handwritten maker's notation inside each shoe: "6 1/2 B / S 42947 / 1521-9BH ." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503730/
Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of sling-back pumps of brown suede. Designed with somewhat "sided" toe - tapering along sides to a flattened curve at tip - the toes have a small triangular opening creating a peep toe. The toe-box has a 3/8" high platform, and is decorated with copper-colored stitching forming a grid set on the diagonal, the squares formed each containing a copper stud of either X or Circular shape. Throat of vamp cut to a gentle point. Plain sides sweep up to sling-back strap, which has small brown shaped buckle. The almost 3" high French heel is covered in the same brown suede. Designer's stamps inside shoes: Left shoe: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" Both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Capri Last" Retailer's label sewn into right shoe: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" Handwritten maker's notation inside each shoe: "6 1/2 B / S6403 / 2410-2BW" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503782/
Hat
Hat in turban style of black jersey. Soft folds tie at back. Headband of self. Designer's label on inside headband: "Paulette" Tag at base of designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114986/
Hat
Toque of multicolor striped velvet in shades of dark blue, red, green and yellow. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Estelle Peters / 50 E. 56th St. N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114812/
Hat
Hat of tan fur felt. Large, turned down brim in mushroom shape; asymmetrical with narrower brim in back. Calotte crown with narrow hatband and bow of self on back. Unlined with black grosgrain headband. Manufacturer's label on inside headband: "Exclusive / Ranleigh / Model" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114977/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of rose/pale pink/pale mauve crepe-back satin charmeuse. Inspired by Chinese Cheongsam-style garments, the dress is full-length, slim fitted, with slight standing collar fastened with hidden hook & loop. Sleeveless, the dress has front opening from throat to slightly below right shoulder, secured with three large rhinestone set circular brass(?) buttons. Very slightly raised waist with triangular "flap", open and hanging down from center front to right hip. From just below hip to center front at hem is secondary opening, with 7 buttons matching bodice. Hem slightly scalloped at front overlap corners, and at right side. Left side underarm zipper. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside bodice: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Maurice Rentner" With tie belt of same fabric, 3/4" wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701433/
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