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 Decade: 1960-1969
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat
Bandeau hatlet of violet ombre straw cloth. Sides formed by 4 folds of same. All edges trimmed in violet colored glass beads. Two brown plastic combs attached to inside grosgrain hatband to secure hat to head. Blue net veil. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38102/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of white simulated alligator in free form with 3 bows of same. Hat and bows trimmed with white glass beads. Two brown combs attached to inside grosgrain hatband for securing hat to head. Navy veil interspersed with groups of 3 white glass beads matching those on hat. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Handwritten label attached to hatband: "82" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38100/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat in cut out triangular shape of white leather with white glass beaded edges on leather strips. Bow of same on center front top. Bow at center back of white glass beads. Navy veil. Two small combs, one attached on each side. Designer's label on inside band: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38077/
Cloche
Cloche-style hat made of a teal or blue/green fur felt. Trimmed at top of crown with teal grosgrain ribbon ornament, and with a matching ribbon running around the hat at the base of the crown. Label inside marked "Marche Exclusive" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30003/
Derby
Derby of hot pink leaves. Hat in the style of a derby, completely covered in various shades of hot pink leaf-shapes cut out of velvet, satin, and other fabrics. Cylindrical crown, up-turned brim. The hat is lined in hot pink fabric and has a pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into the inner hatband is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30291/
Hat
"Lampshade" style hat of black straw or raffia. The basically conical hat is woven of a black straw material, with flattened top. On the front of the hat, off-set to the left, is affixed a wide black velvet ribbon from the top edge of the crown down to almost the brim. Sewn to the ribbon at top is a circular stamped metal brooch set with 17 large circular rhinestones in three concentric circles. The hat is lined in black net, with inner black grosgrain hatband. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is manufacturer's label: "Edette / Exclusive / New York - Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30155/
Pillbox Hat
Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner band is a plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa". The jeweled ornament is attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. Donor notes of this hat: "...to wear with short black cocktail dresses." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30150/
Dress
Dress of navy blue wool knit. The mid-length dress has a contrasting red wool knit mandarin collar and long sleeves with red wool knit cuffs. There are two large patch pockets at front, and a center front closure with twelve circular mother-of-pearl buttons mounted with gold-colored metal rims and shanks. The buttonholes are bound with the contrasting red wool knit. The dress has an attached wide red wool knit belt/sash which ties at waist in front. The dress is fully lined in dark navy blue silk. Designer's label inside lining of skirt at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30240/
Patchwork Dress
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multi-colored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline. Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo". Worn by singer Lena Horne (1917-2010). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30289/
Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851" From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30084/
Raincoat
( At left) Raincoat of black vinyl. The modified A-line coat is of short length, extending to just at or below the knee, and has long sleeves. Center-front opening is secured with 3 silver/chrome clip closures, one at the rounded neckline and two at waist. There is one patch pocket at the right hip. The coat is fully lined in synthetic with vertical stripes of pink, green, blue, violet, and red on a black ground. Manufacturer's label inside at center back just below neckline: "La Flaque / de Paris". At right inside side-seam is a Union Label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30086/
Hat
Hat of green and white felted fur. The hat has a domed, circular crown and an asymmetrical up-turning brim. The crown and inner part of the brim are dyed in a green and white "op-art" pattern of geometric shapes which can be viewed as small green shapes on larger white shapes on a green ground. The outer part of the brim is dyed solid green. At one side is an arrow-shaped ornament of green grosgrain ribbon, the tail of which extends out over the brim and curls upwards. Inside the crown is a hatband of green grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to the hatband ribbon is a large designer's tag: "Schiaparelli / Paris". Stamped inside the crown "Body / Made In Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30300/
Dress
Dress. Floor-length dress of ivory knit, overlaid with a gold netting. Sleeveless and with a boat-neckline, the sheath-style dress has ornate heavy gold cording around neckline, armholes, along side-seams, and hem. The skirt has small side slits, and a center lapped zipper closure located along center-back of garment with hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Lined with a light polyester. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30309/
Dress
Maxi paper bridesmaid dress of Reemay spun polyester "paper". The long dress is printed with a pattern of impressionistic flowers in greens, pink, blues and purples on a yellow ground. It has a high, rounded neckline with no collar, and opens with a zipper at center back from collar to just above waist. The long, fitted sleeves have a thin band at cuff which extends to be tied into a bow. Empire waistline, from which extend box pleats. The dress appears to have a full, floor-length skirt, but the skirt is actually divided, forming pant legs. No designer labels in garment, but original tag is preserved with it: Obverse: "'Wear-a-while'* / Fashions / with / Reemay [trademark symbol] / Du Pont's Fabulous / New 100% Spun Bonded Polyester / DuPont Reemay brings an entirely new quality to 'conven- / ience fashions'. It has an unusual surface appearance, it / is strong and it is colorfast. Garments of Reemay may be / washed a few times and need no ironing if you use / normal wash-and-wear procedures / DHJ Industries Inc. / [trademark symbol] Registered Du Pont Trademark / * Trademark of / DHJ Industries, Inc." Reverse: "Du Pont / Reemay [trademark symbol] / 100% Spunbonded polyester / flame-retandant finish / comfortable -- because it 'breathes' / retains its body and shape -- long wearing / dries quickly -- stays smooth - needs no ironing / it's strong - won't fray, unravel, split, tear / swirl pattern construction gives it a unique / appearance / to shorten: just cut with scissors ... garment won't unravel! / Reemay [trademark symbol] / is processed, furnished and dis- / tributed by DHJ Industries Inc. / 16 E. 34th St., N.Y., N.Y." The Texas Fashion Collection holds two identical examples of this dress, from the same donor. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30330/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black silk tulle and satin in the form of a low pillbox of black silk tulle, tapering slightly to the shallow-domed crown. On the right side is a cascade of dyed green ostrich feathers. No designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30179/
Jumpsuit
Jumpsuit of pink, yellow, green and blue horizontal striped paper. The full-length rayon fiber remay paper pantsuit has olive green, pink, blue and tan stripes. Bodice is sleeveless, empire style, with with high rounded neckline and narrow spread collar, with stripes going horizontally. There is a center back zipper closure from the neck to hip-level. Pants are full-length, wide legged palazzo pants with vertical stripes. The pant legs are slit from the hem to mid-calf, and are unhemmed. The piece is lined in a white rayon fiber paper cloth. Retailer's label at inside left beneath the collar: "Change-In-Time / Boutique / Dallas, Texas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30035/
Hatlet
Hatlet of brown velvet. The open-crown hat is formed of a hollow square with down-turned sides and corners, covered in brown velvet and edged in tiny pearls. "Flying" around the hat are 8 golden stamped metal hummingbirds. One wing of each bird is hinged, allowting movement of the birds as the wearer moves their head. Over all is a brown net veil "capturing" the hummingbirds, with scattered gathers of 4 pearls. The underside is edged in brown grosgrain ribbon, and has two small plastic combs attached to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Sewn onto the inner ribbon is maker's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Also sewn onto inner ribbon is hand-written label "917". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30204/
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble consisting of a coat and dress. The mid-length coat is of knit with a printed pattern of blue geometric shapes on a bright red ground, and has long sleeves and moderate collar with rounded points. Center-front opening with 4 square dark blue plastic buttons. Across back of coat is an attached belt of the same fabric, with buttons at each side, but does not extend around to the front. Fully lined in dark blue fabric. The mid-length dress is of the same fabric, and has short sleeves, a rounded neckline, and flares slightly to hem. The dress has a center-back zipper closure and is lined in the same fabric as the coat. Coat has a single retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" inside back at collar. Dress has slightly smaller version of same label, sewn inside at left of zipper near neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30209/
Pumps
Pair of black satin pumps. Shoes inspired by 1920's design, with a squared-off toe. Vamps have sections of black ribbed elastic on sides, and a central section at top with a row of four black plastic circular non-functional buttons along each edge. 2 1/2" modified boulevard heel covered in black satin. Written inside each shoe: "5 1/2 aa / D4827". Stamped on lining of each shoe: "Herbert Levine". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30230/
Jacket
Waist-length black simulated alligator jacket. The cropped shell is constructed of panels of leather blind-stamped to simulate alligator. Panels are edged with silver-colored circular metal grommeted eyelets, and are joined with knitted black cording. The high, rounded spread collar is of ribbed black knit. Zipper closure from throat to hem at center front. The jacket is unlined, and has two interior, black canvas, envelope pockets with snap closures. Label is located inside at center back, below the collar. "Paco Rabanne / Paris Made in France". Jacket was donated as part of an ensemble which also included black wool and cashmere knit sweater by Dior, and black hip-hugger trousers by Remy. The Valerian Stux-Rybar collection of materials was donated by Jean-Francois Daigre to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in memory of Daigre's companion V.Stux-Rybar. Part of collection was subsequently transferred from the Metropolitan Museum of Art to the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30238/
Beachwear Ensemble - Bikini and Coverup
Beach ensemble consisting of bikini and coverup. The bikini top and bottom are of jersey printed with a modern art design of greens, pink and red stripes. Top has ties that go up and behind neck, and bands that reach around to back and secure with metal clasp. At front, between the cups along top edge is a non-functional tie made of piping made from the jersey material. Bikini bottom is low-cut. The coverup is of light chiffon, possibly silk, with swirling stripes in the same pattern as bikini. It is sleeveless, has a boat neckline, and rounded hemline. The pieces of the ensemble have various tags: In bikini top: "12" In bikini bottom: "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia"; Made in Italy / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus"; "Made in Italy"; "12"; Helanca / Filanca / Marche Int. Dep." Stamped near hem of coverup: "Enzo Mari Per / Fio / Rio"; Sewn in tags: "Fio / Rio"; "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia". Pattern designed by Enzo Mari (b. Novara, Italy, 1932). From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30036/
Ensemble - Dress and Bolero Jacket
Ensemble. The dress is of ivory wool, full-length, and sleeveless with a scoop-neck. Slightly A-line, with a slit at left side from hem up 18". Neckline is lower in back than front, and there is a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label in dress at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York". The accompanying bolero jacket is of red-orange with long sleeves. The cuffs, mandarin collar, hem, and center-front opening are edged with a wide band of off-white fur (fox or mink?). The jacket is decorated with closely-sewn rhinestones. The jacket is fully lined in cream fabric, and has a single hook-and-eye closure near throat. The jacket has no labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30222/
Boots
Pair of black suede boots. Over-calf-height square-toed boots lace up front, with 3 rows of eyelets at bottom and 15 hooks above. Block heel is covered in black suede. Lined in off-white kid leather and with a rubber and leather sole. Impressed in rubber sole: "Made in France". Stamped on lining inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "8 1/2 2A 468069 LE" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30221/
Miniskirt
White leather mini-skirt with 4 applied black leather bands running horizontally around skirt. White leather suspenders attached at back, cross at back, and run over shoulders to fasten at circular white leather-covered buttons on waistband in front. Fully lined in white nylon. Label inside back of skirt at waistband: "Courreges / Exclusively Designed in / Leather and Fabric for / Samuel Robert". Photograph shows the skirt as displayed in the exhibition "The Art of Fashion: The Radical Sixties", held December 1, 1990-February 24, 1991, at the Kimbell Art Museum, Fort Worth, Texas. The long-sleeved black turtleneck knit top is modern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30085/
Dinner Gown
Dinner gown of red velvet. The full-length dress is of deep red velvet, embroidered in black to form an all-over pattern of "fish scales". Neckline is rounded, higher in front than back, and has full-length sleeves with a modified leg-of-mutton effect at the shoulders and zipper closures at wrists. The bodice is seamed, and has a natural waistline. The neckline, waistline, and upper part of sleeves/shoulders are edged in black cording/braid. Skirt is slightly gathered into the waistline braid. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye closure at neck. Small panel lining front of bodice at bust, the rest of the gown unlined. No label sewn in garment, but retains original paper tag: obverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original"; reverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original / Fibre Content / 100% Wool / Style 121 / Size [blank] / Mat. [blank] / Account No. [blank]". This gown is one of the "Dance Hall Girl" dresses from Ms. Maxwell's Southwest American Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30090/
Ensemble - Blouse and Pants
Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants. The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes. The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style. Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France". The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, based on the particular way that the shibori tye-dying technique has been used on the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30096/
Hat
Hat of wine-red velvet. When seen from above, the low crown is shaped as a quatrefoil, with four projecting, down-turned lobes. The sides of crown and the lobes have black braid appliques of scrolling forms. Inside of the crown is lined in black fabric and has a coral/faded pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. On either side are stiff black-covered wire loops to help secure hat to wearer's head. Sewn to inner ribbon band is label: Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30125/
Picture Hat
Picture hat. The hat is of natural woven Milan straw, forming a wide shaped brim that curves downwards to the edges. Brim is rounded in front, flaring out slightly to back and forming two projecting lobes at back. Around brim is a band of woven straw for strength. Very low cylindrical crown, slightly domed. Around crown is twisted gold velvet band forming bow with trailing ribbons at back. Inside base of crown is off-white grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn into inner ribbon band is label: "John Frederics Inc. / New York", "Made In America". Label has three rhinestones sewn to it, and has two small green ribbon bows at opposing corners. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30124/
Suit
Two-piece suit of dark orange knit. The ensemble includes a jacket, double-breasted, with princess seaming and a large cape collar. The full-length straight sleeves each have three circular black buttons and bound button-holes. The opening at front has two vertical rows of 4 black circular buttons, and a hidden snap closure at upper right. Attached to the jacket are four black patent leather belt carriers to support the accompanying thin black patent leather belt. Fully lined in black fabric. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Norell". The matching skirt is short, with a 2" wide waistband into which the skirt gathers. Two slit pockets at side seams, one of which conceals zipper closure and line of snaps and hooks-and-eyes. Skirt is fully lined in orange fabric. No designer's label in skirt, but a single care label ("Do Not Use / Steam Iron") sewn below waistband at inside front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30129/
Evening Pumps
Pair of reddish-pink or coral silk satin evening pumps. Square toe shoes which have a large open area on the vamp which is backed by clear plastic and edged by braid. The plastic is overlaid with a metal net or chain mail with rhinestones at the intersections. 2 1/4" square heel covered with same material. Lined in off-white/gray leather. Stamped inside each shoe: "Made in Italy / Espressly / For / Lou Lattimore" (Espressly rather than Expressly); and "Creation Mancini / Paris / Waltea made in Italy" Stamped on sole of each shoe: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30216/
Kipper Tie
Wide kipper tie of large stylized paisley designs in yellows and gold on a blue field. Blue is somewhat faded from the original shade. The tie has a tag on reverse marked "Brent" and with the logo for Montgomery Ward. The creation of the kipper tie, a form of extra-wide necktie known for bright colors and patterns, is credited to British designer Michael Fish. He brought out the earliest ones in the 1960's. This example was a gift to the donor by his maternal grandmother, Mary Kathleen King Miller (1898-1969). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30325/
Boots
Pair of brown suede boots. Almost knee-high, the boots are constructed as slip-on rounded-toe shoes or moccasins with added segments on the quarter to create the length of the boots. At the top, the suede of the boots is folded over outwards forming a pocket for a drawstring around top and a band of suede fringe around the outside of the boot. Indistinct trademark/logo stamped on sole. Illegible stamped mark inside boots. Referred to as "Squaw Boots", these were worn by the donor who acquired them in 1968 from the Fishing Bridge Store, in Yellowstone National Park. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30322/
Jeans
Pair of commercially produced Wrangler denim jeans that were found in the southern Rocky mountains across from Red River, New Mexico in the late 1960's. The pants had been bleached in irregular patterns by the sun, and had various worn and torn places. After discovery, the Wranglers were embellished with red velour fabric pieces to cover some of the worst structural damage, and with a commercially available embroidered butterfly patch added below waistband at center back. Labels: Evidence of rectangular tag having been sewn on right-side back pocket. Both back pockets have "W" stitching; Fly button engraved "Wrangler"; Tag sewn inside fly: "Wrangler / 30 x 34 / Sanforized / Made in U.S.A."; Zipper pull stamped "Gripper Zipper" and "Pat Pending"; Marked on left front pocket, inside pants: "GDW" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30327/
Jeans
Pair of jeans. Commercially manufactured Levi Strauss & Co. denim blue jeans which have been bleached to white, then disassembled and reassembled with embellishments of multi-color crewel embroidered fabric and glass beads. Jeans have two front pockets and two back pockets, front zipper fly and button at waistband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30328/
Shirt
Homemade, long-sleeved shirt of gold brocade, with straight button front, in the popular Elvis Presley or Renaissance style of the late 1960's. Multiple ballooned areas on the sleeves. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30324/
Vest
Vest of blue, red and white suede. The blue body of the vest has star-shaped cut-outs, revealing the white lining. From the body of the vest hangs floor-length red fringe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30329/
Belt And Buckle
Belt of finished black leather having a large openwork chrome buckle designed as letters spelling out "PEACE", within a rectangular frame. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30326/
Mini Dress
Sheath-style mini dress of pink linen with all-over eyelash fringe. The linen-weave garment is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. It is printed with an elongated honey-comb pattern in shades of pink and white with woven-in fringe throughout. At each shoulder is three circular pink cloth covered buttons. The honeycomb pattern starts out light pink, and darkens towards the hem of the dress. Lower hem is dagged, following the line of the pattern. Lined at hem and upper part in pink. Label in center back inside: "Remas / of Scottsdale" 96 cm. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30138/
Toque
Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30134/
Raincoat
Raincoat of navy and white horizontal striped patent vinyl. The A-line coat is of short length, extending to just above the knee, and has long sleeves. Center-front opening has wide overlap, and is secured with 4 snaps. There are two side-seam pockets, and a red vinyl belt with square buckle. The coat is fully lined in dark maroon/purple/red taffeta. Coat has single label: "La Flaque / de Paris". Belt has repeated stamped on reverse: "Excel / Backing Guaranteed Wash or clean / as garment" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30139/
Hat
Hat of black silk chiffon. The hat is formed from a cylindrical pillbox style hat surmounted by a conical section that is folded back and flares out to form an extension behind the hat. Where the surmounting piece meets the pillbox is a black bow formed from the same cloth. Inside of crown is lined in stiff black netting, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the base of the crown. A small plastic comb is sewn in front of hat to inner ribbon to secure it to wearer's head. No labels. The donor records that "... Balenciaga showed it with dress and sleeveless coat..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30135/
Hat
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30132/
Toque
Toque covered with a mosaic of feathers. The high, cylindrical, domed crown of the hat is completely covered with a mosaic of various types and colors of feathers including yellow with black edge, iridescent green, blue, orange, burnt sienna, browns, and iridescent grays. Fully lined in dark brown felt. Inside hat, at base of crown, is a hot-pink hatband of grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30197/
Ensemble - Coat and Skirt
Ensemble. Coat and matching skirt (not shown) of woven upholstery-weight fabric with stylized floral and geometric designs in burgundy and blue/black on a creme ground. Coat is mid-length, flaring slightly to hem, with long sleeves and a center-front opening. The opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a curly "lamb's wool" died burgundy to match the pattern. Fully lined in burgundy silk(?) With separate sash/belt. Labels in coat: Designer's label "Anne Klein" with lion logo; Dallas, Texas retailer's label "Marie Leavell". Not shown is skirt in matching fabric, mid-length, with no trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30196/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat. The short, flat-topped cylindrical crown of tan netting is completely covered with rows of artificial magenta pink silk flowers, which have yellow thread and green plush centers. Inside the lower edge of the crown is a dark green grosgrain ribbon band which has two sections of elastic cord sewn along the sides to form loops to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Label sewn into inner ribbon band: "Eisa" Donor stated that this hat was "...to wear with a black day outfit." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30148/
Calotte
Calotte of beaded black satin. Evening hat in the form of a calotte (also spelled "calot"). The low, domed crown is made of segments of black satin over a core of woven straw. The surface is embellished with black plastic sequins and beads of various sizes. At top of crown is small squashed spheroid finial covered with a pattern of cylindrical and circular faceted black plastic beads. Inside lower edge of crown is black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn behind band are three elastic loops to help secure hat to head of wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30149/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of white silk crepe. Full-length sleeveless dress with round neck and narrow straps and Empire waist. The bodice is heavily beaded with mirror beads and silver rhinestones. The skirt has vertical columns of beads and has heavy beading on hem. Zipper closure along center back. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30180/
Body Suit With Tunic
Ensemble consisting of two pieces. Base garment is a light green knitted silk jersey bodysuit with over-length sleeves and legs. Zipper closure from throat to lower back at center back, with one hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Over the bodysuit is a tunic/tabard formed of two long rectangular panels of black silk with white printed polka dots all over. There are thin "straps" simulated at shoulders where panels meet, and a slightly rounded neckline. The panels are sewn at left side for 17 cm. below arm and open the rest of the length. On right side are three snaps and one hook-and-eye closure. The left shoulder is sewn shut, while the right side opens with hook-and-eye closure. The panels are lined in shocking pink silk. Label in bodysuit: At inside left back, just beside zipper: "Rudi Gernreich". Labels in tunic/tabard: At back inside, just below neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"; At front inside, just below neckline: "Rudi Gernreich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30029/
Hat
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30161/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30164/