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Texas Fashion Collection
- Coat Dress
Coat dress of black silk taffeta jacquard-woven with supplemental pile design in the weft.
Black buttons down front. Flaring skirt.
A) Coat dress of black silk taffeta with off-white fuzzy woven-in polka dots. Calf-length(? - depends on petticoats), with a small modified "Peter Pan" turn-down collar, which has attached front bias bands to tie into bow at front of collar. 3/4-length set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 16 black circular plastic buttons, hidden snaps at waist and throat, and hook-and-eye at waist. Full, flaring skirt with 13 gores. Unlined.
Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
B) Belt of matching fabric, backed with black leather. Narrow, with rectangular buckle covered in same fabric.
Stamped on reverse: "30+" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402564/
- Day Dress
Day dress of white wool knit. Sleeveless with wide jewel neckline. Calf length; skirt slightly gathered at natural waistline. Left side zipper with hook & eye and four hook & eyes on left shoulder. Two vertical welt pockets at sides. Lined in white silk with weighted pocket linings.
Designer's label at inside left seam of lining: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Esther Wolf / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402493/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail / late day dress of black silk faille. Shallow scooped neckline, short "kimono" style sleeves with wide turn-backs. Bodice seamed, and with dropped waist. Full, mid-length skirt gathers into waist. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at collar. Inner petticoat under skirt composed of two layers, inner plain black fabric layer and outer stiffened horsehair layer.
Designer's label sewn inside skirt, outside of petticoat layer: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402511/
- Ensemble - Dress and Stole
a) Dress of white linen. Bias cut bodice with one shoulder strap on left with 1/2" tie of self. Right side zipper. Slightly gathered skirt; below knee length. Lined in cream silk crepe.
Combined designer's/retailer's label: "Norman Norell for Neiman-Marcus"
b) Stole wrap of red silk linen with white linen on reverse. Rectangular, 33 cm x 146 cm. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402480/
- Day Dress
Day dress of white fleece. Princess style; knee length. Sleeveless with jewel neckline. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Side slit pockets with two gold tone brooches decorated with two circles of white pearls and a center flower of clear rhinestones. Upper bodice of dress lined in white fabric.
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402550/
- Ensemble - Dress and Bolero
A) Bolero jacket is of red-orange with long sleeves. The cuffs, mandarin collar, hem, and center-front opening are edged with a wide band of off-white fur (fox or mink?). The jacket is decorated with closely-sewn rhinestones. The jacket is fully lined in cream fabric, and has a single hook-and-eye closure near throat.
The jacket has no labels.
B) Dress is of ivory wool, full-length, and sleeveless with a scoop-neck. Slightly A-line, with a slit at left side from hem up 18". Neckline is lower in back than front, and there is a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric.
Designer's label in dress at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York".
C) Wide belt of ivory wool, with lengthwise parallel stitching and large fabric-covered rectangular buckle.
No labels on belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402485/
- Evening Dress
Pale blue evening dress with bugle beads at cuffs and hem. Full-length, long sleeves. Wide band of silvered bugle beads running horizontally at hem, smaller bands at cuffs. Attached tie/collar. Center back zipper.
Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402494/
- Day Dress
Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined.
Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York"
b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402484/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of royal blue velvet. The low, cylindrical crown has a flattened top with a self-covered domed button at top center, and one large horizontal "tuck" around the side forming two sections. The whole is overlaid with a navy blue net veil. Lined in black, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Maker's label inside: "Arlington / Hats / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402496/
Hatlet of pillbox style, with open crown, covered with brown, tan, yellow, and iridescent feathers over a beige velvet base. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402556/
- Day Dress
a) Day dress of gray silk douppoini. Straight silhouette that falls loose in back. Elbow length set-in sleeves. Jewel neckline with placket that runs around neckline and down center front opening with 4 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented with a snap at the neckline. Street length. Back lined in gray silk.
b) Slide belt of white crushed leather with oval buckle covered in self. Belt fits into slits at side seams of dress so that back hangs loose and is belted across front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402577/
A) Sundress of brown linen in sheath style. Strapped shoulders. Street length. Center back closure with 8 circular brown plastic buttons and bound buttonholes.Two large patch pockets at sides below waist. Bodice lined in ivory silk.
Designer's label at inside left seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York"
B) Half belt of same fabric. Rounded, open ends of belt buttons onto front left and right sides of dress with two matching brown circular plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402489/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of black wool crepe. Shift style. Sleeveless with rounded neckline having a deep scoop in back. Knee length. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label at left seam near hemline: "Norman Norell / New York"
Union label to left of designer's label.
b) Attached belt of matching black wool crepe. Four inches wide with two circular self covered button and bound buttonholes off center to left. Sits low on hips. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402486/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of silk in light purple floral print against a forest green background.
Printed chiffon evening gown in olive greens, brown and lavender. Deep decollete front and back. Fabric looped up on left side for irregular silhouette. Right shoulder covered with gathered chiffon which hangs down to form a long train. Right side zipper. Neckline trim of dark green velvet with bronze braid and sequins. Lined in pink organza and trimmed at hem with matching metallic bronze braid and sequins.
Fabric given to Miss Etches by Arthur S. Liberty of Liberty's London.
Original design for concert appearances of donor. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402548/
- Ensemble - Dress, and Belt
B) Shift style dress of black wool. Short set-in sleeves. Stand up collar. Below knee length. Side welt pockets and four belt loops of self. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk.
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Sakowitz / Houston"
C) Belt of black leather. 3/4" wide with rectangular buckle covered in self. Stamped on back "12 127" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402553/
- Men's Trench Coat
Men's trench coat of brown glazed/polished cotton with stand-up collar which fastens with two buttons. Concealed button-down front, vertical welt pockets. Saddle sleeves with two buttons and tab at cuff. Belt of self with narrow, rectangular buckle covered in leather. Back has seam down center, ending in slit with two buttons.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Giorgio Armani / Made in Italy"
Worn by Valerian Stux-Rybar; donated by Jean-Francois Daigre digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402573/
Dress of navy blue wool crepe. Knee- or slightly below length. Rounded neckline, sleeveless, with wide straps. Two slit pockets at front, with large rectangular edges of same fabric. Center back closure of 5 large navy blue circular plastic buttons and 3 hidden snaps. Lined in navy blue silk.
Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402558/
- Sweater Suit
Sweater suit of black and white lambswool knit.
a) Sweater jacket of black and white lambswool. Black bodice with long sleeves and trim in black and white argyle pattern. Collarless with five large black leather square buttons down center front. Two front patch pockets. White lining with shoulder pads.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Yves Saint Laurent / rive gauche / Made in France / Paris"
Size "34" label and cleaning instructions labels at inside left seam.
b) Skirt of black lambswool knit with 7 inch band of black and white argyle border at hemline. Waist gathers into 3-1/2 inch waistband with left side zipper. Calf length. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back: "Yves Saint Laurent / rive gauche / Made in France / Paris"
Size "38" label and cleaning instructions labels at inside right seam. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402469/
- Evening Gown
Gown of silver metallic fabric with pointed waistline and large gray metallic floral accent at left shoulder; wide full-length skirt of silver metallic over black/gray petticoat of stiffened net, with a layer of white tulle over the petticoat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402477/
Gown of purple-gray pleated chiffon embellished with beads, sequins, and gems surrounding flat silver metal rectangles; bodice is strapless with constructed bust and princess seams; full-length skirt is heavily embellished with purple-gray feathers; lined in plum silk satin. b) Vest of flat silver metal rectangles surrounded by beads, sequins, and gems trimmed and embellished with purple-gray feathers; lined in plum silk satin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402534/
- Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt
Ensemble of pink, black, purple and green silk.
a) Jacket of multicolored silk jacquard in floral motif. Long straight sleeves; collarless; shoulder pads. Black hand beading and sequins embellishment. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Midon"
b) Skirt of black silk jacquard in abstract pattern. 1.5 inch waistband backed in black grosgrain with center back zipper reinforced with two hook & bars and large snap. Knee length, kick pleat in back. Lined in black silk organza.
Designer's label at center back waistband: "Midon"
c) Blouse of multicolored silk in same floral motif as jacket. Long sleeved. Yoked shoulder forms cowl neck. Center back opening with small black round button and string loop. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402537/
Coat of intricate patchwork of Prince of Wales wool plaid, wool hounds tooth, wool petit point, all-over embroidered with pewter metallic floral vines. Knee length. Simulated double breasted, off-center opening with hidden placket button closure; notched collar. Long sleeves with 6 functioning button closure at wrists. Two flap pockets with welts at each front hip with lapels; pockets not open. Knee-length. Fan pleating at back. Fully lined in gray silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Givenchy / Haute Couture" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402522/
Jumpsuit of champagne satin with strapless bodice and wide leg pants pleated at waistline; bodice is fitted with constructed bust and princess seams; bodice is heavily embellished at the bust with faceted crystal disc beads that fade out just below the waist; center-back zip closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402525/
- Evening Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Evening ensemble of heavy pink Alaskine silk/wool blend, consisting of a jacket and dress.
The jacket is a cropped, bolero style, with rounded neckline and short sleeves. It has a center front opening with single hook-and-eye at throat. The sleeves, neckline, opening, and hem are edged in band of pink and crystal beads and rhinestones. Scattered over the surface of the jacket are clusters of pearl, crystal, and silvered beads. The matching dress is full-length, with an Empire waist. It is sleeveless, with very slight scoop at front neckline, and a deep rounded scoop to mid-back at back.The straps are heavily beaded with pink and crystal beads and rhinestones. The 4-gore A-line skirt gathers slightly into bodice. The dress has an inner pink nylon(?) sheath lining.
The jacket labels are: Retailer's label: "R.S.V.P. / Neiman-Marcus"
Designer's label, underneath retailer's label: "Gino Charles"
Size label: "8"
The dress labels are: Designer's label: "Gino Charles"
Origin label: "Made in the British / Crown Colony of Hong Kong"
Size label: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402501/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of pink satin. Low circular crown covered in a deep pink satin. Flat top is slightly sunken, creating a rolled upper edge effect. Lined with a white machine lace, with wide inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402547/
- Evening Jacket
Jacket of black satin covered with velvet floral and embroidery appliques. Hip-length jacket flares from waist to hem. Standing portrait collar with sweetheart neckline. Long fitted sleeves with flared black satin cuffs. Center front opening with 5 non-functioning large circular black satin covered buttons and various hidden hooks and snaps. Complex inner structure. Jacket has inner boned bustier-like structure that zippers up front and has inner petersham belt below bust. Jacket "shell" is attached to this structure. All parts lined.
Designer's label at left inside seam: "Pierre Balmain"
Handwritten style(?) tag underneath: "172379"
Jacket is part of an ensemble, and has a matching short black wool skirt with black satin band at waist. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402541/
Turban of gathered white net with small white flowers. Conical crown of stiff netting completely surrounded by gathered tulle net forming a dense "cloud", into which are placed tiny artificial white fabric daisies on small stems. Lined in a stiff patterned net edged with gold and cream braid.
Sewn to inner braid is designer label: "Styled by / Jack McConnell / New York".
With a pearl-headed hatpin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402500/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of black straw. The hat has a broad brim of woven black straw with an upturned outer edge which is trimmed in black velvet. The low, domed crown is also of woven black straw, with a band of black ostrich feathers around the base of the crown. One large ostrich feather plume attached to base of crown and extends out and over the back of the brim. Inside crown is black cloth lining.
Sewn inside crown is black cloth label: "Mme Georgette / 11 Rue Scribe / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402502/
Hat of wine-red velvet. When seen from above, the low crown is shaped as a quatrefoil, with four projecting, down-turned lobes. The sides of crown and the lobes have black braid appliques of scrolling forms. Inside of the crown is lined in black fabric and has a coral/faded pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. On either side are stiff black-covered wire loops to help secure hat to wearer's head.
Sewn to inner ribbon band is label: Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402474/
- Bergère Hat
Black silk organza bergère-style hat. The hat has a floppy double-layer brim, the under brim of slightly stiffer black silk organza, overlaid with upper brim of same material. The low, circular crown is encircled at the base by a folded black ribbon, which ties at back and has trailing ends. Inside base of crown is band of black grosgrain ribbon.
Sewn into ribbon is designer label: "Galanos". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402479/
Hat of beige cotton(?). The crown is designed as a five-sided pyramid constructed of five triangular segments that have concentric chevrons of top-stitching. The cylindrical lower edge has horizontal top-stitching, and a lower band of beige and gold brocade ribbon. Hat is unlined, with inner beige cotton(?) hatband. Designer's label: "Taj of India tm"; Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402488/
Hat of dark pink/mauve velvet. The low, domed crown is covered with large overlapping "petal" shapes of velvet arranged like scales, and has a large velvet rose/flower form at front of the same velvet petals. Lined in black fabric, and with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Sanger Bros / Dallas Texas"; and origin/size label: "New York / Creation / 22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402466/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox of navy blue velvet. The low, cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and surrounded by gathers of same cloth "banded" by vertical loops of dark blue satin braiding creating two horizontal bands. Hat is lined in dark blue netting, and was designed with two small combs to help secure it to wearer's head, one now missing. Retailer's label inside: "Harold's / Minneapolis". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402529/
Calotte of off-white satin. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a domed crown covered with horizontally pleated off-white satin, and comes to points at temples. On right point is a large flower-like puff of same material. Hat is unlined, allowing stiffened white net under-structure to be seen. Hat has inner off-white grosgrain hatband and a small comb to help secure it to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402530/
Hat of natural straw. Low domed crown and very wide brim. Tight weave with decorative open weave about 1.5 inches from brim. Around crown is a heavy gold braided ribbon set with spaced rhinestones and large rhinestone where ribbon diverts from crown. Ends of ribbon extend in back to hang off of brim. Off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside crown.
Label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Edna Mye / Dallas". Marked inside crown of hat: "by Hawes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402507/
Calotte hat of brown felt. The calotte (also spelled "calot") is designed as a low domed crown of brown felt with a grid of brown (faux?) pearls spaced approximately one inch apart. One side of the hat is rounded, and the other side dips lower and ends with an arrow projecting away from the head at a ninety degree angle. Arrow covered with brown bugle beads on the front and unadorned on the back. Unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer label sewn inside back: "Frank Palma" with image of needle, thread, and spool under the text digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402482/
Toque of black fur. Base of crown decorated with black felt that creates loops half the height of the crown. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon headband.
Label on inside of band: "VOLK"
Stamped on inside top: "Empress / Body made in Western Germany" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402539/
Hat of gray and natural straw. The low, domed crown is of a dark blue-gray woven straw, encircled at the base by a band of red velvet ribbon that forms a bow at front and has trailing ends at back. The wide brim of the same dark blue-gray straw is oval, set so sides are wider than front/back edges. Over the brim is a smaller oval panel of natural woven straw, giving the effect of a second, smaller brim. The hat is unlined, with dark blue-gray grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inner hatband: "Marion Vallé / New York". Retailer's label on inner hatband: "Gus Mayer / Co. Ltd." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402571/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of finely woven white straw. The cylindrical crown is flat at top and slopes slightly at sides. Around sides of crown is wide band of off-white organdy, which is tied as a large bow at front. The hat is unlined, with inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402506/
Dark orange velvet hat. The shaped crown is roughly square with low peak at top center, constructed of four triangular panels, creating slight "corners" at sides. No brim. Lined in black satin. Accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching velvet. Designer's label inside: "Original / Roberta Bernays" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402481/
Hat of gray woven straw. Hat styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with wide woven bands of dark and light gray straw forming an illusion of massed dark gray flowers with scattered light gray blossoms. Constructed as an open center ring, the crown is domed, with a wavy lower edge along front and beginning of sides. Front of hat is overlaid with grey net veil with three small gray ribbon bows along upper edge. Accompanied by a single grey-headed hatpin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402567/
Red velvet calotte. Hat styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), or modified Juliet cap, with low domed crown, straight across back edge, rounded at sides, and with scalloped edge at front. Along lower edge at sides and front is double strand of black silk(?) braided rope, with matching tassels hanging between lobes of scallops. Lined in a woven gold lamé-type material. Designer's label sewn inside: "Edna Mye / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402499/
- Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of natural Milan straw. The low, cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and is encircled by a wide band of deep golden orange velvet with large bow at back. The wide, flat brim has stiffening at outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner straw-yellow grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402523/
Toque of magenta pink velour. Designed as an over-sized pillbox, the hat has a cylindrical crown, flattened at top, embellished at top with magenta beading in a stylized flower-head design, and with scalloped band of beading around the sides of the crown. Below the crown is a thin "inner band" of same velour, slightly inset from crown. The hat is lined in red fabric, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband laid over an off-white grosgrain band. Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402505/
Pair of pumps of black leather. The shoes are designed with a pointed toe and plain upper. The high stiletto heel tapers gently to base.
Retailer's label stamped on sole: "Neiman-Marcus"
Stamped inside: "8 1/2 B 3507 / 250" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402540/
Pair of pumps of purple satin. The shoes are designed with sharply pointed toes, and a gently squared vamp, across which is a large bow of the same satin. The sides are cut slightly lower, and the stiletto heels are covered in same fabric, flaring slightly to base.
Maker's label stamped inside: "Herbert Levine"
Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "6 AAA 18828 9913-8LZ" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402533/
- Evening Gown
Gown of black jersey crepe with halter top embellished with gems, pearls, and patent leather pin wheels; halter top is trimmed in silver flat chain; jersey is gathered at center-front neckline and center-back; full-length with hip-length, center-front slit; center-back zip closure.
Designer's label: "Carolina Herrera / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330336/
Coat of royal blue and dark magenta striped silk with matching belt.
A) Coat of royal blue and dark magenta striped silk. Double breasted with 10 1-inch gold with inlaid mother-of-pearl buttons and 5 bound buttonholes. Bermuda collar. 3/4 length sleeves with 3" band cuffs. Two large patch pockets at sides. Lined in navy silk. Four large, covered snaps supplement closure. Coat has been altered by stitching front closed at lower portion of opening to form a "dress".
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
B) Covered belt in matching royal blue and dark magenta striped silk. Three inches wide with self covered, rectangular cinch buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330388/
- Skirt Suit
Black, rust and brown herringbone wool suit.
a) Coat of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons with cut tops. Long, set-in sleeves. Brown fur collar. Yoked shoulders and box pleats at left and right sides and two pleats down the back. Lined in taupe silk satin.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Traina-Norell / New York"
b) Skirt of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Below knee length; A-line. Left side zipper with 2 hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in rust colored silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330375/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of two pieces:
A) Dress of gray striped cashmere with scoop neckline and long sleeves with rolled hem and edges; wide, horizontal stripes of alternating gray and light gray; tunic-length.
B) Coat of discs of laminated news clippings sewn on white jersey knit with wide silver fox trim at neckline, opening, and cuffs; lined in champagne satin; mid-length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330379/