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 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1949
Creator: Irene
Description: Suit of beige linen with bands of beige silk embroidered fan-shapes. Suit consists of: A) Jacket. Waist-length or slightly longer, single-breasted, with 5 self-covered and embroidered conical buttons and bound button holes. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs secured at openings. Bust darts for fitting. Collar and lapels with bands of same embroidery as rest of suit. Single pocket above left breast, with bound buttonhole style opening, and smaller bound buttonhole style opening horizontally above main opening. Lined in beige silk. Torso of jacket with three horizontal bands of beige embroidered bands of fan shapes, sleeves with two bands, and then with cuffs covered with the embroidery. Combined designer's/retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Irene / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" B) Skirt. Street-length, straight skirt with slight darts around waist for fitting. 1 1/8" wide waistband, with inner beige grosgrain petersham. Waistband and petersham with hook-and-eye closures over left side zipper. Skirt has 4 wide bands of embroidery, each band consisting of rows of beige fan-shapes. Unlined. No labels in skirt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1946
Creator: I. Miller
Description: Shoes of black suede. Heeled shoes designed as a variation between pumps and sandals, with rounded toe and low vamp/sides/heel with crossing straps at vamp. From heel a band extends upwards, splits, and becomes strap to wrap around ankle, which fastens with small buckle. 3 1/8" high modified continental heel covered with same suede. Retailer's stamp in left shoe: "Neiman-Marcus Co / Dallas" Designer's stamp in right shoe: "L. Miller / Beautiful Shoes" Handwritten notation inside shoes: "7AA-4S2 14- 778 983419"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
D'Orsay Pumps

D'Orsay Pumps

Date: 1940
Creator: unknown
Description: D'Orsay pumps of silver leather. Designed with rounded toe and cut-away sides, the pumps have vamp formed of two wide curving bands joined at top of vamp and open at sides and toe. The silver leather of the vamp and the closed heel and ankle strap are embellished with top-stitching; the straps secured with a square rhinestone-set buckle. The modified French heel is covered with silvered leather, without top-stitching. No markings in right shoe. Left shoe with sewn-in label: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd." Both shoes with handwritten notation: "8a / S 12293 / 8315Bb"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1940~
Creator: unknown
Description: Shoes of purple satin with silver kid leather trim. The shoes combine the closed heel and cut-away sides of a d'Orsay pump with the open strap-work vamp of a sandal. They have an ankle strap which secures with a small rectangular buckle, and which connected to the vamp via a strap which runs along the top of the foot. The high, modified French heel is covered with purple satin. Retailer's label stamped in both shoes: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1940
Creator: Delman
Description: Pumps of dark brown suede and brown alligator. Designed with a rounded toe, the uppers are of dark brown suede with toe-cap and heels of brown alligator. The modified Cuban heel is covered with brown alligator. Designer's stamp in left shoe: "Delman / Made entirely by hand" Retailer's stamp in right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Handwritten note in each shoe: "2P67046 54 / 8a"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sling-Back Evening Pumps

Sling-Back Evening Pumps

Date: 1940
Creator: Delman
Description: Pair of heeled sling-back evening pumps of silvered and painted leather. Designed with somewhat sharply rounded open toes, the shoes have an all-over design of yellow hand-painted "scales" on the silvered leather that look as if large silver scrolls are applied over a ground of yellow/golden scales. The vamp has a central hole surrounded by a ring of 8 applied silvered leather discs with a cluster of hand-painted yellow dots at center of each. The edge of vamp is cut in a gentle "pointed arch" shape. Ankle strap of plain silvered leather, secured with oval gilt metal buckle set with tiny rhinestones. The 2 1/4" boulevard heel is covered with the same hand-painted silvered leather as the rest of the shoe. Designer's stamp in right shoe: "Delman / New York Chicago London Paris" Retailer's stamp in left shoe: "Bergdorf / Goodman" Handwritten in each shoe: "B80784 / S9474Sx / 5 vN / 821"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1940
Creator: Rentner, Maurice
Description: Evening dress of rose/pale pink/pale mauve crepe-back satin charmeuse. Inspired by Chinese Cheongsam-style garments, the dress is full-length, slim fitted, with slight standing collar fastened with hidden hook & loop. Sleeveless, the dress has front opening from throat to slightly below right shoulder, secured with three large rhinestone set circular brass(?) buttons. Very slightly raised waist with triangular "flap", open and hanging down from center front to right hip. From just below hip to center front at hem is secondary opening, with 7 buttons matching bodice. Hem slightly scalloped at front overlap corners, and at right side. Left side underarm zipper. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside bodice: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Maurice Rentner" With tie belt of same fabric, 3/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1940
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of shoes of navy blue suede with an oval toe. The vamp has a single wide strap buttoned at the side. Lined in cream leather which shows as thin edging on exterior of shoe. The medium height modified continental heel is covered in the same suede.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1944
Creator: Adrian
Description: Coat of purple wool. Below-knee-length, collarless, and with long sleeves. Center front opening with three large, self covered buttons. Two patch pockets trimmed with one matching button each and framed in 3/4 inch inserts. Lined in purple silk crepe. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Adrian / Original" With matching covered belt with functioning belt buckle. Leather reverse with three punched holes. Stamped "1756 - 14"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: Autumn 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Day dress of brown silk damask in fine diamond pattern. The dress is in wrap-around style, with asymmetric neckline with wide, shawl collar on the left. Street length. Opening buttons on bodice at left with 4 circular, brown buttons and bound buttonholes, hook & eye at natural waist and two snaps where skirt attaches to peplum. Peplum is asymmetric and longer on left. Long dolman sleeves with underarm gussets and folded back cuffs. With matching belt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
D'Orsay Pumps

D'Orsay Pumps

Date: 1949
Creator: Pandora Footwear
Description: D'Orsay pumps of black suede. The shoes have cut-away sides, and rounded toes. The toe-box is formed by openwork black suede arching/interlaced arching shapes. The heel is formed by three crossing, wrap-around black suede ankle straps with small silver buckles. High, French heel covered in black suede. Marked on heel strap of both shoes: "26609-7 / 6N", "10305x"; Stamped on lining at heel: "324 / Last"; Stamped on lining "Pandora / Footwear".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Beach Clogs

Beach Clogs

Date: 1940
Creator: unknown
Description: Beach clogs. The sandals are designed with rounded toe, and have a blond wood sole through which are threaded straps/ties of tan and brown woven in a vine/leaf pattern. Moderate heel.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mules

Mules

Date: 1940
Creator: unknown
Description: Mules of brown/oxblood suede. The shoes are designed with rounded, open toes. The toe-box/instep is formed of brown/oxblood suede with two diamond-shaped cut-outs across instep, with gold kidskin bands across narrow points between openings. The high French heels are covered with same suede. Retailer's stamp inside right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Beach Shoes

Beach Shoes

Date: 1946
Creator: unknown
Description: Beach shoes of tan rope and red, white, and blue knitted cotton(?). Designed as thick-soled espadrilles with coiled rope soles and rounded toes, the toe-box and heel section are of knitted cotton(?) in red, white, and blue patterns of squares and zig-zags on bands of color. From instep to sides of heel are tied red silk(?) cords.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sling-Back Pumps

Sling-Back Pumps

Date: 1940~
Creator: Palter DeLiso
Description: Pair of black patent leather sling back pumps. Designed with slightly pointed rounded peep toes, the vamps are composed of two triangular panels of leather which join at points on instep, the join a diamond-shape of leather with circular center hole. The peep toe and the throat edged in black grosgrain ribbon. The sides near the toe-box are cut low, and flair back into the sling-back strap, which has a small black rectangular buckle. Modified French heel is covered with same black patent leather, and tapers almost to a thick "spike" heel shape. Designer's stamps inside shoes: Left shoe: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" Both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Dresden Last" Retailer's label sewn into right shoe: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" Handwritten maker's notation inside each shoe: "6 1/2 B / S 42947 / 1521-9BH ."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1948/1952
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening dress of champagne peau de soie. Princess style. Sweetheart neckline in front, with small horizontal pleats at front left and right princess seaming at upper part of bust; back neckline is low and rounded. 1-1/2 inch wide shoulder straps that split in front to form an inverted Y, with horizontal band of same fabric at dividing point. Natural waist. Skirt is below knee length, at at hips has three almost horizontal bias folds which extend to from hip center back and join to form bow; lower sash ends of the bow attach to skirt to form "bustle drape", giving added fullness. Attached net petticoat gathered to taffeta yoke; back zipper. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sling-Back Pumps

Sling-Back Pumps

Date: 1940~
Creator: Palter DeLiso
Description: Pair of sling-back pumps of brown suede. Designed with somewhat "sided" toe - tapering along sides to a flattened curve at tip - the toes have a small triangular opening creating a peep toe. The toe-box has a 3/8" high platform, and is decorated with copper-colored stitching forming a grid set on the diagonal, the squares formed each containing a copper stud of either X or Circular shape. Throat of vamp cut to a gentle point. Plain sides sweep up to sling-back strap, which has small brown shaped buckle. The almost 3" high French heel is covered in the same brown suede. Designer's stamps inside shoes: Left shoe: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" Both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Capri Last" Retailer's label sewn into right shoe: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" Handwritten maker's notation inside each shoe: "6 1/2 B / S6403 / 2410-2BW"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
D'Orsay Pumps

D'Orsay Pumps

Date: 1941~
Creator: Frank Brothers Footwear, Inc.
Description: Evening pumps of black suede and rhinestones. Designed as D'Orsay pumps with rounded toes and cut-away sides. The toebox is of openwork with peep-toe, set with tiny multicolored rhinestones bordering the cut-outs. The sides of the heels similarly decorated. The ankle straps with small gilt metal rectangular buckles set with matching stones. Thick, modified Parisian heel covered with black suede. Stamped in right shoe: "Frank Brothers / Footwear inc. / New York" Stamped in left shoe: "Sophistecrat"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1946
Creator: Gainsborough Ltd.
Description: Shoes of brown snakeskin and green reptile. Designed with a very slightly pointed toe, the peep-toe toe-box is made of two pieces, the inner piece of brown snakeskin, the outer piece of green reptile, both edged with plaited border of two leathers, the snakeskin overlapping the reptile, forming a point. The toe with thick platform, the sides of which with three horizontal bands of leathers, green lower reptile, center band of plaited leathers, the upper of brown reptile. Open sides, the sling back formed with openwork interlaced leathers, secured with small gilt metal rectangular buckle. The set-in French high heel is covered in brown snakeskin, with vertical plaited band of colored reptile leather running vertically along back edge. Stamped in both shoes: "ce qui se porte" / Gainsbourough / 1128 Lincoln Road / Miami Beach, FLA.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Shoes

Evening Shoes

Date: 1941~
Creator: Haggerty, Nancy
Description: Pair of evening shoes of cream satin and gold leather trim. Designed as modified heeled sandals, the shoes have a rounded, open toe, and toe-box formed of four rounded "petals" of satin that rise up from the sides and join at top of toe-box. The "petals" are edged in gold leather, and have cut-outs between. Open sides, and straps around ankles and instep secured by small rectangular gold-colored buckles set with small rhinestones. Wide strap at back of heel. Satin covered heel is a modified boulevard heel, with rounded sides, slight waist, and curved front. Designer's stamp, left and right shoe: "Nancy Haggerty / Shoes Inc / New York" Handwritten in both shoes: "820X - Gold / 4 1/2 C / X6297"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Cocktail Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Date: 1949
Creator: Leibert, Dorine
Description: Cocktail ensemble of mauve damask satin with woven pattern of small flowers consisting of: A) Bodice/top. Sleeveless, with 1" shoulder straps and 3" fold around neckline. Left side zipper opening from bottom to almost neckline. Unlined. B) Skirt, of matching fabric with scattered groups of "smoked"? sequins. Floor length, A-line, with wide, 3" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Purse

Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Purse

Date: 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Cocktail or dinner dress ensemble of pale blue/green satin brocade with design of acanthus and thistle/leaf in dark green and golden yellow, consisting of: A) Blouse. Short sleeves with 2" rolled cuffs and shawl collar. Center front opening has 4 self-covered buttons above waist, and 6 hook-and-loops below waist on peplum for securing into skirt. Fitted seaming and pleats centered on waist. Unlined. Label inside top at left side seam: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped on label: "05456" B) Skirt of matching brocade. The mid-length skirt is double box pleated from narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. C) Petticoat of ivory moiré satin. Mid-length, with narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at waistband. E) Belt of green silk-covered ivory leather with rectangular silk-covered buckle. (not in photographs) D) Purse of green silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Suit of taupe wool consisting of: A) Jacket. Single breasted with closure of two large, plastic, textured taupe colored buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar and long, set-in sleeves. Two pleated plackets at sides of waistline with bound openings create loops for belt. Lined in matching silk jacquard of "Christian Dior" pattern. Designer's label at inside left opening: "Christian Dior-New York, Inc." Evidence of removed label at center back neckline. B) Skirt. Slightly A-lined with left side zipper and hook & eye. 1" waistband. Lined in rust colored silk crepe. C) Self-covered belt with rectangular buckle. 1-1/2" wide. Stamped on reverse: "16 Christian Dior / New York, Inc"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1948
Creator: Dessès, Jean
Description: Suit (jacket and skirt) of dark brown wool consisting of: Jacket. Single breasted with notched lapel. The center front opening is slightly angled from top left to lower right and has three circular, dark brown, plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves have three nonfunctional, smaller, matching buttons with tailored buttonholes at hem. Torso tapers to fitted, natural waist and flares to hips. Vertical, double welt, very shallow side pockets. Lapel, center front opening and hem of sleeves trimmed in thin, black piping. Princess seaming. Lightly padded shoulders. Lined in black silk jacquard with repeated "Jean Dessés" pattern. Skirt. Street length; slightly A-lined. Designed to appear as a wrapped skirt with diagonal opening from left hip to right side hem with five nonfunctional buttons matching jacket, and tailored buttonholes. At center front, from knee height to left side hem, is simulated opening backed by same fabric. Opening has black piping matching jacket. Left side zipper with two hook & eyes on narrow waistband. Lined in black silk, with exception of front panel.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design