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 Decade: 1940-1949
 Year: 1945
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
[Fashion Design]

[Fashion Design]

Date: 1945/1960
Creator: Wolff, Lilli
Description: Original fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Possibly for a costume, of a female figure with gold-accented dress and flowing pink belt/sash represented on sketch by an applied cut-out piece of paper. Drawing is overlaid with black mesh, and mounted on larger board. Believed to have been done between 1945 and 1960.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Petticoat

Petticoat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Petticoat of maroon taffeta with two tiers of 1-3/4" black horsehair braid. One inch waistband. Center back opening closed with hook & eyes. Two curved panels at hips are gathered at the hem. Unlined, with 3-1/2" band of black stiffened net at interior hem line. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of dark pink/mauve velvet. The low, domed crown is covered with large overlapping "petal" shapes of velvet arranged like scales, and has a large velvet rose/flower form at front of the same velvet petals. Lined in black fabric, and with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Sanger Bros / Dallas Texas"; and origin/size label: "New York / Creation / 22"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945
Creator: Bernays, Roberta
Description: Dark orange velvet hat. The shaped crown is roughly square with low peak at top center, constructed of four triangular panels, creating slight "corners" at sides. No brim. Lined in black satin. Accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching velvet. Designer's label inside: "Original / Roberta Bernays"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of navy blue silk faille. Small brimless hat, formed with a very low domed crown. Lined in off-white organza(?), with deep edge of the faille extending up into the underside of the crown. With two small plastic combs to help secure it to wearer's head. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1945
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Skirt-suit of navy blue wool. A) Jcket. Cropped, fitted jacket with v-neckline and center-front opening with 5 self-covered circular buttons with bound buttonholes and two hidden snaps. Long sleeves, each with two self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, and two hidden snaps. Lined in navy blue silk, and with internal shoulder pads. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Skirt. Street-length flared skirt of 10 gores, with narrow waistband, left side zipper with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. Lined in navy blue silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Sonnenfeld's
Description: Picture hat of off-white felt. The low, domed crown is open at top along a split from front to back, and is encircled and almost covered by wide bands of red, white, and blue horizontally striped grosgrain ribbon, with crossing and trailing ends at back. The wide brim curves downwards. Hat is unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Sonnenfeld's / St. Louis"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Skirt suit of navy blue wool twill consisting of: A) Hip-length jacket with full length tailored sleeves. Collarless neckline which raises 3/4". Single breasted with 3 tortoise buttons and slim bound button holes. Bib-shaped yoke insert with two almost vertical faux pocket flaps. Mid-arm design seams comes to inner top of lower hacking pocket flaps. Hacking pockets have vertical and slim bound buttons holes with one tortoise button for right flap and one turquoise button for left flap. Back inverted triangular yoke starts from shoulders with point ended at center back waist. Tailored sleeve split into upper and under sleeve, with two darts at elbow on under sleeve. Fully lined in (now) indigo crepe silk. B) Skirt, pencil with seams at center front and back and both sides. 1 1/2" waist band with triangular tip comes to a lapped zipper on left side and 4 sets of hooks and one snap for closure. Two 2" darts on front and two 4" darts on back. 2" simple vent at CF hem, hem has been let down from original length by ~2", using 2" cotton bias tape. Skirt is unlined with pinked cut edges to finish seam inside. Labels: Designer's label: "Adrian ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1945
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Gray worsted wool two-piece suit. A) Jacket. Hip-length, with long sleeves. Center front opening with 4 large circular buttons (one missing). Front with piece-in bands of same cloth forming cross-overs at upper bust and arcs below the two pockets. Lined in peach fabric. Designer's label at left side: "Adrian / Original"; At center back inside neckline is retailer's label "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia" B) Skirt. Street-length, ca. mid-calf. Zipper closure at left hip, with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. Retailer's label as in jacket, near hem on side seam.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Suit of tan heather wool. Suit consists of two pieces: A) Jacket, pointed collar, notched lapels, single breasted, long sleeves, cut formed of diagonal piecing, lined in tan silk crepe. B: Skirt, four gored, kick pleat at CF hem.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress consisting of jacket and skirt. A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte style hat of black velvet with black net veil in front. Lined in green fabric. Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Debutante"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Garrison Cap

Garrison Cap

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Varon, Evelyn
Description: Hat of black and brown suede. Brim-less. Style resembles a garrison cap. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Evelyn Varon / Model" Union label at left of designer's label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Mr. John
Description: Hat of white/black striped silk. Pieced, skullcap crown with narrow, folded brim. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label: "Mr. John Inc."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945/1948
Creator: Fredericks, John
Description: Hat of red straw with high crown. Cream and pink roses decorate turned down brim and top of crown. Unlined with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label sewn inside headband: "John Frederics / Made to Order"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Beret style cap of off-white silk noil. Crown is of pieced construction with topstitching on all seams. Headband of same with rows of horizontal topstitching. Inner headband of light green colored grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside headband at back: "Henrys / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945/1948
Creator: Frederics, John
Description: Hat of colored knitted yarn. Tall, conical crown with flattened top. Crown has horizontal bands of knitting in browns, blues, and beige, alternating with bands of "puffed" yarn areas of blue, pink, beige, and brown. No brim. Unlined, but with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "John Frederics Inc / New York" and "Made in America".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Picture hat of light tan straw. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top, with a sunken center. Crown is encircled by a wide band of olive green velvet ribbon, lighter on one side, that is formed into a multi-lobed bow at back with trailing ribbons. Wide flat brim turns down near edge. Unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Henry a la Pensée, Inc.
Description: Tuque style, hand knitted cap of purple-brown yarn. Skullcap crown with side flaps to cover ears. Unlined. Manufacturer's label: "Henry / a la / Pensée / Inc."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Marguerite Yvonne
Description: Picture hat of black silk. The hat is designed with a cylindrical crown, somewhat flattened at top, which is encircled at the base by a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon with bow and streamers at back. The top of the crown is enhanced with radiating lines of top stitching. The wide black silk brim curves down, and is made as two concentric sections, each with decorative top stitching creating layered rays. "Marguerite / Yvonne / 509 Madison Ave / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Frederics, John
Description: Picture hat of light tan straw. The hat has a high, conical crown that is flattened at top. The wide straw brim curves up slightly from base of crown, then curves gently downwards to edge. At back of crown is large navy blue grosgrain ribbon bow, and around the top of the hat is a "cloud" of navy blue veiling. Hat is unlined, with inner light tan grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and a black elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside: "John Frederics Inc / New York"; "Made in America"; and size label "22".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: [1945..1949]
Creator: Rose, Marie Jacqueline
Description: Calotte style hat of maroon straw trimmed with grosgrain ribbon.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Jacqueline
Description: Hat of pale tan straw. The hat is formed as a domed crown, trimmed at lower edge with pale tan grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Inner label: "Jacqueline / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: [1945..1949]
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte of black straw cloth. White fabric rosebuds and daisies with green leaves form headband as trim over small brim in front. Edge of hat trimmed in black velvet. Black veil gathers to velvet ribbons on ends to form tie for securing hat to head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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