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 Decade: 1940-1949
 Year: 1940
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Cap
Cap of dark gray wool. The cap is styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. Running width-wise across crown is a band of the same fabric with parallel lines of top-stitching in white thread. Lined in a dark gray fabric. No labels in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286928/
Headpiece
Headpiece of black satin. Headpiece formed as an openwork braided cylinder made of three thick black satin segments. Black grosgrain ribbon inner band, to which is sewn a brown plastic comb to help fasten hat to wearer's head. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286945/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material. The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe. Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original" The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283771/
Jacket
Jacket of navy blue wool crepe. Asymmetrically trimmed with pleated band falling from right shoulder, secured with white buckle at waistline. Self belt at waist with matching white buckle. Long sleeved with pleated diagonal at lower right sleeve. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283688/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283672/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of brownish grey worsted wool in black, white, and warm grey. Jacket of self-worsted wool with notched collar and rounded lapels that extend beyond collar; open front trimmed in half-circle lapels at opening with brass disc button accents; 4 buttons on each side decreasing in diameter to bottom; wide, elbow-length sleeves with 3” cuffs; small shoulder pads within; fully lined in brown chiffon; waist-length. Skirt of matching self-worsted wool is gored with long reverse pleat at center-front surrounded by 2 shorter reverse pleats at each side; slight A-line; hits below knees. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Original customer label(?): "James L. Courtney" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283697/
Hat
Hat of fine black balibuntal straw lined with black velvet. Medium high crown with black velvet band typing in large soft bow. Brim uneven, very narrow in back, widening at sides and fullest at left front. Headband of black velvet with large bow of same side back. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277077/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of reddish brown straw. Low, cylindrical, slightly tilted crown is flattened at top and encircled at base by wide gray grosgrain ribbon which divides into three tiers of streamers cascading at back. Wide floppy brim. Reddish brown inner grosgrain ribbon hatband and black elastic cord to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / INC." Retailer's label at inner hatband: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277133/
Hat
Safari-like hat of olive green with four-sectioned crown. Green grosgrain ribbon and bow as trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with grosgrain headband. Stamp on inside headband: "Made in France Especially for / Best & Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276991/
Hat
Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk. Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277011/
Hat
Hat of brown felt in modified beret-style. Crown is draped with a band of pearls as trim on right side. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label: "Haute Mode / Michèle / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277119/
Hat
Hat of ultramarine blue felt. Based on a top hat, the cylindrical high crown has an undulating upper edge. Small brim curls up at front and sides, but curls down at back, ending in a point. Around base of crown is wide blue grosgrain ribbon which trails off back of hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. A thin black elastic strap goes around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn into inner band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114797/
Hat
Hat of brown felt with beaver trim. Front resembles toque style and is covered in fur. Crown is a scull cap of brown felt with extension in back and fan-shaped, piped stitching. Free form bow of felt covered wire at front. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114729/
Hat
Hat of dark brown suede with brown mink trim on heart shaped, upturned brim. Two pins with square shaped suede covered ends. Comb on inside, front hatband for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114847/
Beach Clogs
Pair of wooden, raffia, and leather beach clogs. The slip-on shoes are designed with wooden platform soles with rounded toes, and a wide woven raffia strap across vamp which is dyed in stripes, red, off-white, black, orange, white, brown, and green. The raffia strap is attached at either side by narrow band of leather nailed into sides of sole. The 3" high heel is of a modified Louis style, and is painted with flower-heads in blues and reds, with similar floral forms on the sides of the platform near the toes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114732/
Hat
Hat in modified sailor style of navy blue straw. Medium height crown is domed at top and has straight front edge and rounded back edge. Around the crown is a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon with flat bow at back. Brim is circular, set off-center so more brim is at front of hat than back. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain band around inside of crown. Affixed at inside back of hat is small puff of black netting. Affixed to inner band is elastic loop to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside lower edge of crown: "Germaine Montabert" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114822/
Hat
Cocktail hat of pink horsehair. The hat is formed of a flat circular tan straw crown completely covered with woven pink horsehair faille formed as layers of ruffles. The whole is mounted at an angle to a circular ring covered in pink satin. No labels on hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114821/
Hat
Hat in modified renaissance style of black crochet net. Flat, circular crown of net gathered under crown from temples draping to shoulder length. Inside hatband of black grosgrain. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Lilly Dache Paris 78 East 58th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114946/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of gold lamé fabric. Hat could also be called a modified turban. Upturned brim with large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones as trim. Same trim of large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones on right side of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" Designer's label on inside headband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114971/
Halo Hat
Pamela or halo style hat of natural colored straw cloth. Crown ringed with brown silk organza roses. Edge of brim covered with natural colored grosgrain. One hatpin with black, teardrop shaped head. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114900/
Hat
Hat of green pleated, nubbed cloth. All-over pleats connect on crown under large, round covered button in same. Wide hatband of self makes double bow on back. Hatpin with pearl head. Inside headband of green grosgrain ribbon. Lined in cream colored silk. Could be called a flower-pot or mushroom style hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114735/
Hat
Hat of tan fur felt. Large, turned down brim in mushroom shape; asymmetrical with narrower brim in back. Calotte crown with narrow hatband and bow of self on back. Unlined with black grosgrain headband. Manufacturer's label on inside headband: "Exclusive / Ranleigh / Model" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114977/
Hat
Hat of black broadtail fur with high, rounded crown and narrow, curved brim. Wide, black grosgrain ribbon as hatband forms bow at side. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché / Paris New York" Crown stamped: "Featherlite / Brand" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114985/
Hat
Hat in turban style of black jersey. Soft folds tie at back. Headband of self. Designer's label on inside headband: "Paulette" Tag at base of designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114986/
Hat
Turban of black and red print fabric with large draped pouf at top in bow shape. Headband of same drapes around back of top pouf, hangs over forehead and knots in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain headband. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." Size label: "22 1/4" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114987/
Calotte Hat
Oval, calotte style hat of faded rose tucked satin with fabric flowers and petals in matching color. Flower at front of hat trimmed with small satin bow at center. Retailer's label on inside back headband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114993/
Hat
Peaked Dutch-type bonnet of rough black straw with two bands of embroidered organdy and lace across forehead. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Designer's label: "été 1940 / Schiaperelli / 21, Place Vendôme Paris" Label under designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114860/
Hat
Afternoon hat of crushed and draped velvet. Brim of dark purple, crown of wine. Purple brim extends to point at side. Self cording trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in wine colored silk. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Marguerite & Leonie / 4 . Rue des Carucines" Label attached below designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114881/
Hat
Toque of multicolor striped velvet in shades of dark blue, red, green and yellow. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Estelle Peters / 50 E. 56th St. N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114812/
Hat
Hat of black and white shiny braided straw. Petite boater-like with low, slightly rounded crown. Thin red felt/velveteen (?) ribbon around hatband ties on side to hold up plume-like decoration made of black and white straw material. Plume is styled in the shape of a flower with two red beads in center. Netting material hangs from left and right sides with red velveteen fabric covering ends. Left and right cloth hooks on inside of headband. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Fedway". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115002/
Hat
Hat of tan felt. Style resembles a garrison cap. Inner headband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Maker's label on inside headband: "Jacqueline / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114801/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of light purple felt in teardrop shape. Decorated in bunches of purple and magenta felt grapes with leaves of green felt. Rose colored tie bow at back. Hat covered in purple net with chenille balls. Black grosgrain headband. Manufacture's label on inside headband: "Northridge Inc. / 1 W. 57th St. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114994/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat in taupe felt. Slightly flared brim. Trimmed at front with red feather bird. Green and black coque feathers drape from front over back of hat. Beige colored veil on front. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Milgrim" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114995/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black felt. Upturned brim of black Persian lamb wool higher in front and tapering to back. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Label on inside headband: "Blanche Richmond / Salon des Chapeaux / 711 Church St. / Evanston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114996/
Hat
Hat in modified breton style of bright red straw cloth with folded brim at front and sides. Two trims of black coque feathers on each side at back. Unlined with black grosgrain hatband. Designer's label at inside hatband: "Richard / Original" Size tag attached to designer's label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114947/
Hat
Hat of royal blue very fine straw and plastic weave. Domed crown. Overlapping bands of self create a turban effect. Lined in blue fabric with blue grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114785/
Beret
Beret made of light blue knitted chenille yarn. Designer's label: "Frank Olive" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114784/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat made of light blue knitted chenille yarn. Bow of same on side. Designer's label on inside at back: "Frank Olive" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114783/
Turban
Turban style hat of black and pink striped satin with stuffed stand up pleated pouf in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché Paris / 78 East 58th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114786/
Hat
Hat of brown straw with high crown surrounded with beige feathers and a pink satin bow on side. Narrow brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label: "an original / Vogue Hat / by Garfunkel" Handwritten style number(?) on inner headband: "59.397" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114790/
Hat
Hat of midnight blue silk jersey, with flat turban effect in front and draping at sides and back. Brimless with draped loop at the back. Loop is multicolored with bands of light blue, fuchsia and chartreuse sewn together giving striped effect. Elastic strap to secure hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86990/
Hat
Hat of black silk taffeta. Wide, quilted brim. Crown formed of loops of tubing in same material attached to brim, knotted at top with ends trailing off back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87061/
Hat
Hat of cream and gray striped fabric. Low, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At back of crown is band of vertically pleated band of same fabric, which extends to edge of brim. Narrow asymmetrical brim, wider in front. At back of brim is cream bow of thick velvet "string" with trailing ends. Underside of brim lined in cream velvet which extends up to edge the brim. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Lydia / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87046/
Hat
Beret style hat of navy and white woven straw. Ribbon flower hangs off side of hat with small flag of orange grosgrain ribbon on top of stem. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon with extension at back of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York" Retailer's label at inside headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87047/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled somewhat as a fez, the hat has a slightly conical crown with flattened top. At back are two segments of black silk braid/knotwork. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Original / Helen Smith / Marshall Field Annex - Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87075/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39152/
Toque
Toque hat of gray felt. The high, cylindrical crown of gray felt flares very slightly to the flat top, which is cut on a slant, and is higher at front than back. The top panel is inset, forming a "ridge" of the top edge. The lower edge is also on a slant, with inner band of same felt extending slightly below the crown. The inner band is cut to form a pointed arch at front. No brim. The hat is unlined, but has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co. / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39212/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. Formed as Juliet cap, the hatlet has a crown of black velvet formed as a stiff low dome with shaped edge creating triangular points at front, back, and each side. At each side of the crown is an applied matching velvet bow with trailing ends. The hat is overlaid with black netting, with small black plastic circles worked into the veil's mesh. The hat is lined in blue cloth, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39183/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled as a tricorne, the crown is of black felt, flattened at top. The wide brim is set off-center to the crown, with more of the brim at sides and front than back. The brim is curled up and in at sides and back, forming a triangular shape, with point at the front. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon along inside bottom edge of crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Jacqueline / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39081/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39144/
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