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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Shoes
Pair of white satin ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white satin upper has tabs which extend across the instep to form closure. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas & Waco." Maker's code stamped inside: "35 - 2 36463" Stamped on sole: "35 - / 2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38988/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black silk. The shoes, designed as modified D'Orsay pumps with pointed toes, are of black silk with cut-away areas at sides. Toe-box with opening at vamp and "T"-strap extending from vamp to connect with strap across instep that extends from heel area. Instep strap secures on outer side of shoe with circular button. Tear-drop shaped cut-outs on either side near heel. Lined in black silk. Medium high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with very slightly curved front section. Heels covered with matching black silk on sides and back. Sole of tan leather. There are no marks or labels on the shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38989/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of light blue leather and yellow suede. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of pale blue polished leather. The upper sections, of yellow suede, close along sides with small mother of pearl(?) buttons, 12 buttons high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Thin silver-colored metal edge/band just above cap of heel. Sole of tan leather. Handwritten inside: "242 / G3064" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38983/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, have decorative band across toe cap with row of tiny holes along line of band. The boots close along center front with laces (laces lacking), 18 holes high. Medium/high stacked heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering slightly to base, and with curved front section. Sole of brown leather. Lined in off-white/tan canvas. Stamped on lining: "37 / 1 / 7395" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38998/
Shoes
Pair of woman's white canvas shoes. Designed with slightly pointed toes and a rounded edge at the vamp, the shoes have a single strap across the instep secured with a circular glass button with steel(?) shank. Thick canvas-covered heel shaped as a modified Cuban heel, rounded at sides and back, curved at front, and tapering slightly to base. Sole of leather, originally white/pale, worn to brown. No designer's or retailer's labels. Stamped inside of each: "455 .199 59 [star] / D8083 82566" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86984/
Daytime Dress
Daytime dress of printed cotton lawn. Street-length of white cotton lawn is printed with stripes of grays and coral is sleeveless, with wide straps and V-neckline in front and back. The bodice is cut so that stripes are diagonal, meeting at center front and back and emphasizing the V-neckline. The narrow waist is slightly dropped, and is defined by a wide set-in decorative belt of the same fabric, with stripes running horizontally, with fabric-wrapped rectangular buckle and ends. The full skirt has stripes running vertically, and is gathered at the waist/bottom of the belt. There is one underskirt of cream faille, and a second of stiff cream netting. The center-back zipper closure extends from single hook-and-eye at neckline to base of belt. Bodice is partly lined with cream faille and has internal boning. There is a white grosgrain ribbon inner waistband with hook-and-eye closures. Designer's label is sewn inside dress, to bodice lining at left side: "Adele Simpson". This dress was a gift of the designer Adele Simpson and her husband Wesley Simpson to the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86983/
Shoes
Pair of black peau de soie heeled shoes. Slightly pointed rounded toe, with an oval openwork area at the throat of the vamp which simulates a buckle. These "buckles" are set with simulated black jet and cut steel beads. The 2 3/8" modified French heel is covered in black peau de soie. Marked on leather sole: "VOLK"; Stamped inside right shoe: "VOLK / DALLAS"; Notation inside each shoe: "172 / 5931 / 2355" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86997/
Pumps
Pair of woman's white kid pumps. Designed as modified Oxford style shoes with slightly pointed toes, the white kid uppers are decorated with rows of circular holes along toe-cap, sides of vamp, sides of shoe, and heel. The shoes lace up at center front along instep, 3 holes high. The medium-high heels are curved around sides and back, covered with same leather. Front of heel cut straight across, covered with light tan leather. Stamped inside shoe: "Brooklyn Hand Turns / 'Aristocrat' / 51 - Last". Embroidered label inside shoe: "Paul's / Aristocrats / Hand Made / Turn-Sole". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86998/
Evening Dress
Cream silk jersey evening dress / ballgown with beaded decoration and matching belt. A) Full-length gown, bodice embellished with hand-embroidered stylized leaves/buds in cream on a ground of silver, green, and mauve beads. Shoulders and thin collar with solid fields of beading. Short, wide sleeves edged with silver and clear beads. Center back opening with hook-and-eyes at top and bottom, no closure along mid-back. Plain cream silk jersey skirt, gathered into waist. Closure at right hip, with band of hook-and-eyes along back waistline, and series of hidden snaps down from waistline. Bodice lined in silk gauze, skirt lined in heavier cream silk. Inner grosgrain ribbon waistband with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside waistband: "Givenchy"; under designer's label is hidden design/style # tag with handwritten notation: "54783" B) Belt of cream silk gauze-backed silk jersey, 2" wide x 30" long, completely covered in beading matching bodice. Hook-and-eye closure at ends. No marks/labels on belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87027/
Petti-Hoop
Petti-hoop of steel hoops within a white cotton petticoat. A modified form of cage crinoline consisting of three graduated steel hoops that open with snaps that fit within horizontal pockets of the full-length petticoat. Petticoat has gathered waist and eyelet lace at hem. Maker's label sewn in: "Petti-hoop / Created by / Ru-Nell / Pat Pend #494517" Size label, "10". The Ru-Nell Manufacturing Co. was founded by Fred Poole in 1935 in Yorkville, Georgia, USA. The company was named after his wife Ruby, and his oldest daughter Nell. Originally producing chenille bedspreads, they began to manufacturing "Petti-hoops" after their daughter Dorothy was unable to find a petticoat/hoop set to wear for a Southern Bell Ball in the 1950's. Ruby Poole designed the first one, and it became so popular that they went into production. Later they were produced as wedding gown underpinnings. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87029/
Mini Dress
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined. Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87026/
Sandals
Pair of woman's sandals of pink and silver metallic leather, white leather, and black patent leather. Insole/sole of silver leather with pink leather inner section. Across instep is narrow band of pink, white, and black leather segments set with a single square black faceted gem mounted in silver colored metal. A second matching strap extends from insole, curves across instep, threads through a similar band, then continues around back of heel and back down to reattach to insole on same side it began. This band also set with two square faceted black gems. 3" high spike heel is thick, covered with black patent leather on sides and back and brown leather as sole on front. Designer/Maker's label stamped on insole at heel: "RODO / Since / 1956" within wreath. Impressed in sole: "RODO / [outline of hide] Vero / Cuoio / Made in Italy / 36" With applied sticker on sole showing pictograms indicating what materials make up the parts of the shoe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87112/
Pumps
Pair of woman's pumps of iridescent gold leather. Designed with rounded, open toes, inner sides cut-away. The leather has lightly scored parallel lines over the surface, creating a striped effect. Elongated wedge-style heel 4" high. Designer's label stamped in silver on insole: "Fanziska Hübener" Stamped into sole: "Hübener, Fanziska"; a circle with inscription "Vero Cuoio / Hand Made Brazil"; sizes: "BR / 38"; "EUR / 40" and "USA / 9" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87111/
Pumps
Pair of velour, canvas, and leather pumps. Designed with pointed toes, the pumps have uppers of bright green, red, and navy velour, and black canvas in lengthwise stripes. Along bottom edge of upper is a pebbled leather band which is textured to resemble alligator and which is accented with brown stitching. Stiletto heel 3" in height covered with same textured leather. Suspended from top edge of heel is a gold charmed shaped as an "R". Maker's mark stamped in gold inside shoe: "[R logo] Roberta di Camerina" Stamped on sole: "Vero / Cuoio" and "37". Applied sticker on sole with pictograms indicating which parts are leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87117/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of ivory colored leather. On back of each glove is a stitched swirl design of 5 ribs. The gloves widen to end with piped hems, and extend to about mid-forearm. Appears to be a youth size. Stamped inside gloves: A) "ARIS" logo in hemisphere; "U.S. Pat. / Aug. 22'22"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. B) "5 3/4"; "U.S. Pat. / Sept 19'22 / Made in Germany"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87118/
Sandals
Pair of sandals made of deep pink leather. Two thick straps extend from sides and meet to form vamp/throat with surmounting bow. A thinner, single strap extends up and across near base of toes. Spike heel is 3" high, and covered with same pink leather. Inset black label on sole with maker's mark embroidered in silver: "Mario Valentino / Made in Italy" Molded into sole: "Mario / Valentino" Stamped into sole: Outline of a hide containing words: "Vero Cuoio / Cuir / Veritable / Leather / Leder Echt"; "Made in Italy"; "39" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87114/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of kid skin leather; off-white; just below wrist length; single snap fastenings at wrist. On back of each glove, running length-wise down hand are three embroidered bands, pink and blue chevrons in diamond formation on dark blue bands. Cuffs from wrist to end are lined with black silk heavily embroidered with floral motifs in blue, pinks, reds, whites, greens, etc. in chain-stitch. Remainder of glove is unlined. Stamped inside glove: "Modèle déposé [Fr-En: Registered Design] / Paris" and "6" and part of other marks. Metal parts of the snaps have what appear to be Chinese/Japanese characters stamped into them. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87119/
Sandals
Pair of sandals made of metallic cobalt blue leather. Two thick straps extend from sides and meet to form vamp/throat with surmounting bow. A single strap extends up from sole at heel and is topped by strap to encircle ankle. Strap secures with single silver tear-shaped buckle. Spike heel is 4" high, and covered with same blue leather. Inset black label on sole with maker's mark embroidered in silver: "Mario Valentino / Made in Italy" Molded into sole: "Mario / Valentino" Stamped into sole: Outline of a hide containing words: "Vero Cuoio / Cuir / Veritable / Leather / Leder Echt"; "Made in Italy"; "39" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87116/
Sandals
Pair of women's sandals of silver metallic leather. Designed as "gladiator style" sandals, with six narrow silver leather criss-crossed or interwoven straps at front over vamp, and six more similar straps extending around ankle and originating from vertical band at heel. 5" zipper along heel band. Designer's label on both sides of sole: "Barbara Bui" Impressed on underside of sole: "Made in Spain" and "40". Attached sticker under sole showing pictograms indicating which parts of shoe are leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87113/
Dress
Dress of white raw silk and linen blend. The dress is mid-length, with rounded neck and short sleeves. Set in from neckline is a narrow band of red silk with white line print forming a collar with bow at front. The trim is repeated at sleeve hems, and at lower edge of 2 faux pocket flaps at front. The dress is seamed and with short bust darts. Center back zipper closure with hook and loop at neckline. Fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label at inside left neckline: "Vera Maxwell / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87006/
Shoes
Pair of women's shoes of black patent leather. Designed with square toes, the vamp has an applied large square of black patent leather crossed vertically by a narrow band of red leather set off-center to right side of wearer. "Kitten" heel 1 1/2" high formed as a silver rectangle with horizontal black band and vertical red band. Designer's label inset int sole: "Davis by Ruthie Davis" Designer's monogram impressed in sole, two facing "D"s Impressed in sole: Outline of hide inscribed "Vero Cuoio"; "Designed in / New York / Made in Italy / 6" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87105/
Sandals
Pair of woman's sandals of black suede. Designed with pointed toe, the slip-on sandals have two wavy-edged black suede bands crossing at instep, and a second pair of similar straps extending from heel and mid-foot to cross at slightly below ankle. At each crossing is mounted a faceted clear crystal set in a silver filigree rosette of four petals. 3 1/2" spike heel is covered in black satin. Tan leather sole. Maker's logo/label stamped in gold on cream leather inset in insole: "[logo of T bracketed by facing L's within oval] / Couture / Les Tropeziennes" Stamped in gold on sole: "Made in Italy / Vero Cuoio"; logo repeated; "Les Tropeziennes" and "35". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87107/
Shoes
Pair of woman's shoes of gold leather and colored snakeskin. Designed as platform heels with slightly pointed open toes, they have a wide band of gold leather extending across the vamp. Extending along the side of the shoe from the vamp, behind heel, and to other vamp is band of snakeskin dyed vari-colored, from dark burgundy to gold. Another band of gold leather attaches to snakeskin at ankle on each side and wraps around wearer's leg. Back of band is elasticized. 4 1/2" stiletto heel covered in gold leather. Designer's label stamped in black on insole: "[monogram] / Gil Carvalho / London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87108/
Pumps
Pair of woman's pumps of bright tan / golden / honey colored leather. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have horizontal black stitching following the shape of the shoes over all of the surfaces, creating a striped effect. 4 1/2" spike heel covered with the same leather. Designer's label of tooled copper leather inset in insole: "Rupert Sanderson / London" Impressed in sole: "38"; "Rupert Sanderson"; "Vero Cuoio" and "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87104/
Sandals
Pair of woman's high-heeled sandals of multi-colored metallic leathers. Designed with rounded, open toes, the shoes have a vamp of an open-work figure 8 created by dark and light blue and violet braided leather bands. Bands of same leather extend from sides of vamp along sides of sandal to heel. Openwork heel formed of same braided leathers in inverted teardrop or petal shapes radiating from heel, and with upper band arching over the heel. Insole of metallic blue leather with inlaid teardrop shape of violet leather. 4" high heel rounded at sides and back tapers to ground and is covered with iridescent blue/great material. Designer's label stamped in silver on insole: "Fanziska Hübener" Stamped into sole: "Hübener, Fanziska"; a circle with inscription "Vero Cuoio / Hand Made Brazil"; sizes: "BR / 35"; "EUR / 37" and "USA / 6" Size sticker on sole: "36" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87106/
Hat
Hat of black felt. "Pancake" style hat with low, domed crown of black felt slightly "puffed out" at top. Around base of crown is tied ribbon made of white Birdseye pique, with self bow at each side. Hat has wide circular black felt brim, set slightly off-center to back around crown. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Black felt back strap lined with black grosgrain ribbon secure hat to wearer's head. Labels: Retailer's label on inside band: "Carson Pirie Scott & Co. / Chicago" Additional label sewn partly behind retailer's label: "57 31" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114885/
Hat
Hat of ultramarine blue felt. Based on a top hat, the cylindrical high crown has an undulating upper edge. Small brim curls up at front and sides, but curls down at back, ending in a point. Around base of crown is wide blue grosgrain ribbon which trails off back of hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. A thin black elastic strap goes around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn into inner band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114797/
Hat
Hat of green felt. Based in part on a "Eugenie-style" hat, the domed crown is of Kelly green felt surrounded by an asymmetrical cut brim which is rolled up at one side. Rolled brim is hand-sewn to crown, and narrows to point in back. Affixed at cut/roll is spray of vari-colored pheasant feathers. Hat is unlined, with Kelly green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to the inner hatband are two small simulated tortoise shell combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn inside at hatband: "Estelle Peters / 50 E. 56th St. N.Y.". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114819/