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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Pumps
Pair of lady's dancing pumps of red kid leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of soft red fine kid leather leather with a square-ended flap at vamp/instep, and applied red satin bow at vamp. The inner sole of the shoe is a dark red quilted satin. The low heels are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and straight across at front. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather at heel and tan on rest of shoe. Stamped in sole on one shoe: "2", on other: "4". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39013/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat made of brown net covered with green silk leaves and violet rose buds. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39050/
Hat
Hat of black velvet and satin. The crown is formed of stiffened circlet of black mesh overlaid with black velvet. The top of the crown is in two parts. The front is covered with black satin, pleated along edge to create fullness. The back of the top is of black velvet, full, and crushed, forming a surface somewhat like a beret. There is no brim, but at front the crown flares out slightly giving the suggestion of a brim. The hat is lined in black satin which is in poor condition, allowing the inner structure to be viewed. There are no labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39058/
Hat
Hat of red straw. Conical crown is of woven red straw, with a flattened top. The wide, floppy brim is of matching straw, constructed as a separate piece, sewn to the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. A black cord is attached to either side at inner hatband to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc." Price tag affixed to inner band: "75 [cents symbol]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39054/
Hat
Hat of silk. The off-white silk crown is domed, with excess fabric forming a ruched band around the lower part of the crown. The front and sides of the crown are embellished with embroidery and needlework of large flowers and foliage in white. Around the base of the crown is a band of white grosgrain ribbon, with rosette and trailing ribbons at side. The medium-width oval brim is of white silk over stiffened mesh framework, with outer band formed by openwork stitching. The brim is set off-center to the crown, extending the farthest from side to side, and with more brim in front than at back. The underside of the brim is faced with black velvet. The hat is lined in white silk, now shattering. There are no labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39059/
Headpiece
Headpiece of chicken wire, sequins, and beads. The bandeau or tiara form has a base of curved metal fitting across the wearer's head, on top of which is a segment of chicken wire which is embellished with sequins, glittery material, beads, and one small rhinestone brooch at center. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39056/
Calotte
Hat of black velvet and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of black velvet, with an irregular lower edge. Set around the calotte are 5 large tear-drop shaped rhinestones, 4 at front and 1 at back. Each stone is bordered by concentric bands of pearls, small rhinestones and gray tubular beads. The beading bands continue around the hat, linking the larger stones, and becomes the lower border of the hat. The hat is lined with black satin, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Ere Nouvelle / New York / Reg. U.S. Pat. Off." Sewn to maker's label is size label: "22 / MSC" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39053/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The hat, for day wear, has a domed black felt crown. On either side of the crown is a large black velvet bow with trailing ribbons. The black felt brim is set off-center, providing for more brim at front of hat and less at back. The front of the brim curves up, and is faced in black velvet. The front half of the hat has a black veil with scattered "dots" in the netting. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. A small stitched star on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39175/
Hat
Hat of natural-colored straw. The domed crown is of patterned woven straw, forming a lace effect. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of light brown grosgrain ribbon, with a bow and trailing ends. The wide brim, of matching straw, curves upwards. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of light brown grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of the crown. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39172/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of brown straw cloth with brown veil. Left brim of hat circles to form a loop that folds under the right side of the hat. Designer's label with two set in rhinestones on inside of crown: "John Fredericks / New York" Vertical portion of designer's label: "Made in America" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39171/
Cocktail Hat
Hat of beaded, printed silk. The cocktail hat is of silk printed in an abstract foliage design in greens, reds, purples, yellows, white, and brown. It is heavily beaded, with small pale green square beads, oblong dark green beads, oblong and circular white beads, and tan flat sequins. All beads appear to be wooden. The crown is formed as an irregular dome, and has no brim. The hat is lined in gold cloth, and has two small plastic combs attached to either side of the inside of the crown to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39177/
Hat
Hat of black satin with asymmetrical brim upturned at front with faux fur crown. Brim is satin on top with pleating on underside. Label sewn into lining of crown: "Bijou / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39170/
Hatlet
Hatlet of burgundy fabric covered with artificial flowers. The hatlet is formed as an oval of stiffened burgundy fabric intended to be worn across the top of the head. The hatlet is almost entirely covered with artificial flowers of velvets, silk, and other fabrics. The flowers are primarily in pinks/purples/reds, with green stems and leaves. The hat is lined in black satin and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is very large, extending across the full width of the inside of the hatlet, the word "Paris" partly obscured by the grosgrain ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39178/
Cloche
Cloche hat of lace and velvet. The deep, domed crown is of peach satin (?) overlaid with a silver metallic lace. At the front of the crown are applied leaf shapes of dark pink velvet that form a fan-motif. The lowest leaves on each side extend to become a shallow brim for the hat, also formed of the dark pink velvet. The leaves and the brim are quilted with metallic silver stitching. The hat is lined in pink satin(?). Label sewn inside crown: "Pittsburgh / Character Hats / New York / Trade Mark Reg. / U.S. Pat. Office" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39174/
Hat
Hat of gray velvet. The domed crown is made from six segments of gray velvet, sewn in bands extending from front to back. The brim, of matching felt, is set off-center to the crown, giving more brim in front than back. The front of the brim turns up somewhat, and has an embellishment of long dark brown feathers extending along the brim from a dark brown velvet bow set on the underside of the brim. The hat is lined in a bronze brown crepe, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge of the crown. A small contrasting stitch on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's/Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39179/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. The hemispherical crown has a three-quarter brim of the same felt, curving back to the crown, and forming a roll at edge. The hat is designed to sit back on the head, allowing the front brim to extend vertically. Along the line where crown and brim join is affixed a veil of gray netting, with small "fuzzy" pieces attached at some intersections. Attached to the front of the brim, on the outside of the veil, is an artificial bird made of real brown and green feathers, with a ring of simulated pearls around its neck. The eyes of the bird are simulated pearls. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon along base of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made". Supplier's mark stamped inside crown, consisting of a shield containing a coat of arms and the word "Ruth", with "Made in Czechoslovakia" below the shield. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39176/
Hat
Hat of rust colored felt with folded back brim. Crown encircled in wide brown grosgrain ribbon tied slightly off center in front. Large brown feathers attached at knot on ribbon drape over the crown of the hat and have smaller brown and orange tone feathers and netting at base. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39173/
Hat
Juliette cap of red satin with edge of red straw. Brim covered in red velvet. Long red netting has velvet covered ends with pearl set in center. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39185/
Bonnet
Bonnet. High domed cylindrical crown is made of artificial material simulating straw or horsehair in a lose weave forming concentric rings. The crown has applied standing bands of the woven material and has applique of flowers and leaves in various colors of velvet. Tied around base of crown is a pink silk band. The wide oval brim is of the same material as the crown, set so that it is wider side-to-side and narrower from front-to-back. The outer edge of the underside of the brim has a lining of pleated blue silk(?) ribbon. The crown of the hat is lined in pink fabric. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39182/
Hat
Small turban style hat made of wide navy blue straw covered with navy veil. Designer's label on inside brim: "Irene of New York" Retailer's label on inside brim: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39181/
Hat
Hat of black and white neora synthetic straw. Styled as a modified breton hat, the high domed crown is of woven black synthetic straw with white woven synthetic straw accents. The wide, matching brim is set off-center to the crown, wider at front than back, and is rolled up, forming a deep trough around the crown. At the front of the hat, affixed to the visible upturned underside of the brim is a large black plastic button with a black silk tassel extending from the center. The hat is lined in black mesh, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband around the inside base of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Beresford". United Hatters Cap and Millinery Workers International Union sewn to inner hatband, with number "798738". Accompanied by a single short hatpin with simulated black pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39187/
Hat
Hat of off-white French linen. The soft crown is domed and formed of six segments. Around the base of the crown is a red linen ribbon, threaded through a series of six "belt-loops" spaced around the base of the crown at approximately where the segments join. The slightly stiffened, and quilted in a pattern of concentric circles. The hat is unlined, and has an inner hatband of off-white linen at inside base of crown. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39180/
Cloche Hat
Modified cloche hat of dark blue velour. The oval body of the cloche is designed to be worn cross-wise on head, with one side dipping lower than the other. The sides are decorated with star motifs in dark blue sequins, beads and velvet circlets. Unlined, with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon and edged with a dark purple(?) band. Designer's and Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" Stamp on inside crown illegible. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39215/
Toque
Toque hat of gray felt. The high, cylindrical crown of gray felt flares very slightly to the flat top, which is cut on a slant, and is higher at front than back. The top panel is inset, forming a "ridge" of the top edge. The lower edge is also on a slant, with inner band of same felt extending slightly below the crown. The inner band is cut to form a pointed arch at front. No brim. The hat is unlined, but has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co. / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39212/
Calotte Hat
Calotte hat of brown felt with rounded crown and a 1" turned up brim. Feathers of medium brown and gold are attached under brim at center front and lay over brim at right and left sides capped with squares of same brown felt. Inside crown stamped: "Carol / Body Made in Italy" Label sewn to inside crown: "Replica de Parisienne" Label sewn to inside grosgrain hatband: "Adjustable / Head Size" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39211/
Hat
Hat of bright, light orange felt hat. The domed crown is wrapped with a pleated pale orange silk chiffon band, over which is a second layer of a very light gray/smoke colored net. The orange felt brim curves downwards. The underside of the brim is lined with the orange felt, while the crown is lined with white silk with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39217/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The cylindrical hat has a flattened crown with four clusters of 5 beaded spheres each along the top edge. The bottom edge of the crown is gently scalloped, and edged with small tubular beads. The crown is lined with black satin, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge. Attached to the inner hatband on one side is single plastic comb (mate missing) to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"; hand-written tag sewn in: "582" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39210/
Turban
Modified turban of black flannel/jersey. The oval form constructed to be worn cross-wise on head, with circular fan of black feathers at right side, and radiating section of shirring at left. Unlined, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Shirred area backed with stiffened net/fabric panel. Designer's / Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc. / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39218/
Turban
Turban in multicolored silk organza. The body of the turban is made of pleated silk organza in stripes of pink, blues, purple, and coral. Lined in a dark beige net, with matching grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. At either side are attached small plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Irene of New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39214/
Calotte
Calotte of pink velvet and feathers. The hatlet is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") created of a curved oval/slightly teardrop-shape of layered/draped and folded pink velvet, set across head so that point is at center of right side and curve is at center of left side. The crown is overlaid with a cascade of pink feathers which runs from just above center of left side, across hat, and falling down on right side, with feather ends curling in and under. The hat is lined with pink mesh, and has an inner hatband running around the inside edge of the crown. Affixed to inner hatband at left side is small plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon". Accompanied by short hatpin with simulated pearl mounted on head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39219/
Calotte
Hat of red satin and sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of dark red satin almost completely covered in sequined floral appliques. Irregular lower edge, following the outline of the appliques. Lined in black paper (?) and satin, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the band indicates the front of the hat, and a small applied white ribbon bow is set at back. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending across the inside of the hat, the "Paris", most of "New" and all of "York" are cut off. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39216/
Juliet Cap
Juliet-style hat of light blue felt with four teardrop-shaped appliques of iridescent sequins and faux pearls outlined in clear beads across front. Wire frame covered in light blue velour. Unlined. Retailer's Label: Volk digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39213/
Hat
Hat of white straw. The low, domed crown is of finely woven white straw, encircled around the base with a wide band of red velvet ribbon, trimmed with gold braid along top edge. At the back, left side, the ribbon has an extended trailing end. At the front, the gold braid runs down the velvet ribbon in two strands, and crosses the brim to attach to a red velvet heart shape which is embellished with borders of pearls and braid, and a central heart shape made of gold bullion braid. The brim of the hat is of matching straw, curling slightly up at edge. Along the front half of the hat is a fine brown veiling. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Pfeifers / of Arkansas". A second label is sewn to the side of the retailer's label, with the initials "ADJ" within a rectangle, and the initials "[illeg]SC" below. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39168/
Calotte Hat
Calotte hat embellished with black jet beads and sequins. Two double-looped jet bows in back. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Edna Earle / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39164/
Hat
Hat of multi-colored straw. Based on a beret, the hat consists of a crown of finely woven straw in bands of dark blue, red, white, and dark blue. The crown is formed as a flattened sphere, surmounted by a small sphere of dark blue velvet. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Brand label sewn to inner hatband: "Lee Bury / Hats". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39169/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. Styled similarly to a fedora, the hat has a high cylindrical crown with the top of the crown sunken in slightly. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at side. The medium-width brim slants down slightly at front, and turns up slightly at back. Hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Norma's / Creations / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39166/
Hat
Hat of black velvet with soft brim and two ostrich pom-poms attached to left side. Hard velour stand decorated with jet surrounds a shirred crown. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Irwin's / Decor / Cincinnati / St. Louis" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39163/
Skimmer
Skimmer hat of straw and silk. The skimmer, or boater style hat has a low woven straw crown with flat top. Around the crown is a matching woven straw ribbon edged in brown silk, with a bow at back. The wide, flat brim is of woven straw, covered with brown silk matching the trimming of the band on the crown. The silk covering is quilted in a pattern of concentric bands with running wavy lines. The crown and underside of the brim are unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband at base of crown. Extending from the inner hatband are two panels of brown silk, forming a chin-strap with black cord knot fastener. A small "F" is stitched to inner hatband to indicate the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / Maynor Hats / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39165/
Hat
Hat of pink straw. The open crown is of woven pink straw, as is the wide oval brim. At the front of the hat is a cluster of artificial flowers in pink velvet and green fabric. The hat is unlined, with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown - one band pink, the other of cream. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" Accompanied by a single short hatpin with a tan straw woven head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39162/
Hat
Cloche style hat of navy blue felt with cream veil in back. Two white pompoms with gold base. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39161/
Hat
Hat of navy blue straw. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top. Around the sides of the crown are wide band of grosgrain ribbon, almost as wide as the side of the crown. The ribbon is embellished with maroon red satin "dots", affixed to the ribbon. At the side, towards the back, the ribbon has two short trailing ends extending outwards. The brim is very narrow, of the same straw as the crown. The hat is lined with dark blue mesh, and has an inner hatband of dark blue grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: " Mr. D' " The hat is accompanied by one short hatpin with a faux tear-drop shaped pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39167/
Hat
Hat of rust colored straw with curved brim wider in front and rolled in back. Green velvet ribbon trim. Tucked crown & tan silk lined brim. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Paris / Molli / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39160/
Calotte
Hat of purple felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat consists of a domed crown of purple felt, which extends down on the right side. Tied horizontally around the front of the crown is a wide band of purple taffeta, which passes through slits on the sides of the crown, and emerges towards the back of the right side, tied to become a large "pouf". The hat is lined in purple satin. Maker's label sewn into lining of hat: "Edna Mye / Dallas". The hat is accompanied by two short hatpins, the heads covered with purple felt that matches the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39184/
Calotte
Calotte of brown straw. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a teardrop shaped crown of dark brown straw, with the "point" of the teardrop extending down the right side of the wearer's head. The edge of the crown is trimmed with two bands of grosgrain ribbon, cream and brown, which have been tightly pleated and arranged to simulate a herringbone pattern. At the right side the ribbons form two simulated plumes. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. A small cream stitch on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin, the head of which is covered with dark brown grosgrain ribbon matching that of the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39189/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of dark brown straw cloth with small visor brim. Brown grosgrain ribbon surrounds brim. Large button of metallic thread attached to crown with 3 matching buttons hanging from grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label attached to inside brim: "Exclusive Millinery / Pfeifers / Little Rock" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39186/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. Formed as Juliet cap, the hatlet has a crown of black velvet formed as a stiff low dome with shaped edge creating triangular points at front, back, and each side. At each side of the crown is an applied matching velvet bow with trailing ends. The hat is overlaid with black netting, with small black plastic circles worked into the veil's mesh. The hat is lined in blue cloth, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39183/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black leather and gray suede. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather on toe box, and gray suede on heel, back, and strap across instep, which closes with button on outside of foot. Medium high heels are covered in matching suede and are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Retailer's stamp on sole: "MacDougall & Southwick Co. / Seattle, Wash." Hand-written notation on lining: "40 00 20704" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39022/
Shoes
Pair of ladies' off-white or cream heavy satin wedding shoes. Designed with rounded toes, the slip-in shoes had an embellishment across vamp of an applied white satin bow or pouch. One survives in part. Lined in white fabric. Sole of natural brown leather, heel covered in white satin. Medium-height heel with rounded sides and back, curving inwards and then straight down to base, similar to a modern continental heel. Stamped inside shoe in gilt: "Boston Shoe Store / New Orleans, LA" Stamped inside shoe in green: "350 19664" Worn by Elsie Gauthreaux at her wedding to Robert Iler, 1913. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39021/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with rounded pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front. The sole is of black leather. Shoes are lined in black leather and off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of black rubber(?) with molded grips. Manufacturer's mark molded into heel: "[Image of a walking man] / Healthway / USA". Stamped into sole: "Combination / Last" Handwritten notation on lining: "4/1/6 18261* / 51|23" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39027/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black leather. The shoes, designed as oxford style shoes with pointed toes, are of black leather which close along center front with laces, 6 holes high. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather. There are no marks or labels on the shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39020/