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 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Cloche
Cloche hat of medium brown coiled and plaited fibers. The high crown is crafted of spiraling band of plaited and coiled brown yarn(?)and incorporates looped sections, with iridescent flat ribbon wrapped around elements of the band. There is a horizontal "tuck" at back of hat, and a slight "visor" effect at front. The hat is unlined. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". While in the style of a 1920's/1930's cloche, the materials, label, and construction date this piece to the 1960's. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39235/
Calotte
Hat of gray felt, burgundy velour, and black sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), formed of a base of stiffened gray felt, overlaid with a layer of burgundy velour. The domed crown extends further down on right side than left, curling out at rim. The crown is covered in black sequins, with an edge of the velour showing slightly at front and back, more at right side. The hat is unlined, with inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. A small stitch in the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene / New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39052/
Hat
Hat of green velvet. The low, domed crown of dark green velvet is surrounded by a band of the same fabric, with a wide "belt loop" at back. The brim is off-center, some what wider at front, also of dark green velvet, very full and somewhat gathered into the band around the crown. The crown is lined in black mesh, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon. A small taupe stitched start on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39042/
Hat
Hat of white mink. Styled as a low turban, the hat is of white, bleached mink. When seen from above, the hat appears as a tight spiral of white fur. The hat is lined in white satin, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to lower edge of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39223/
Turban
Modified turban of black flannel/jersey. The oval form constructed to be worn cross-wise on head, with circular fan of black feathers at right side, and radiating section of shirring at left. Unlined, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Shirred area backed with stiffened net/fabric panel. Designer's / Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc. / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39218/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black velour with extended right side. Extended side has 3 cutouts covered with net. Stamp on inside crown: "Dubarry / illegible" Designer's label: " Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39222/
Calotte Hat
Calotte hat of brown velvet. One hatpin with black, avocado shaped head. Brim and top center seam meet to form V-shaped opening. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Balenciaga Hats . Paris" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39200/
Shoes
Pair of ladies' off-white or cream heavy satin wedding shoes. Designed with rounded toes, the slip-in shoes had an embellishment across vamp of an applied white satin bow or pouch. One survives in part. Lined in white fabric. Sole of natural brown leather, heel covered in white satin. Medium-height heel with rounded sides and back, curving inwards and then straight down to base, similar to a modern continental heel. Stamped inside shoe in gilt: "Boston Shoe Store / New Orleans, LA" Stamped inside shoe in green: "350 19664" Worn by Elsie Gauthreaux at her wedding to Robert Iler, 1913. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39021/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39152/
Hat
Hat of velvet and golden weave cloth. The domed crown is covered in a woven golden cloth shot through with metallic threads. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband of a similar fabric in the form of a dense ribbon, forming a large bow at front. Set in behind the bow is a semi-circular fan spray of fine white feathers. The wide, circular, slightly floppy brim is of black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue/black satin material. Maker's label stamped in gold on inner lining of crown: "Mme. J. Dagnet / French Millinery / 206 St. Paul St. / Dallas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39153/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black leather. The shoes, designed as oxford style shoes with pointed toes, are of black leather which close along center front with laces, 6 holes high. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather. There are no marks or labels on the shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39020/
Hat
Hat of lavender horsehair overlaid with lace and velvet. The daytime hat has a high, domed crown of braided/woven horsehair. Around the sides of the crown is a band of pale lavender velvet overlaid with a band of dark blue velvet, which itself is partly overlaid by pale blue lace. Around the back of the crown is a band of pale blue velvet, a section of which is also at the base of the crown at the front of the hat. The brim is of the same horsehair, and stitched up in back to create the effect of having the brim extend around sides and front, but not the back. The brim is overlaid with lace as the crown. At left side of hat, along base of crown, is a small embellishment consisting of two tubular beads and three circular beads set with rhinestones. The hat is lined in blue satin. Retailer's(?) paper label attached inside crown at back: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas - Texas", with original price of $20.00. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39151/
Hat
Cloche hat of blue-green velvet. An early example of the cloche hat, it has a narrow up-turned brim. All around the crown is floral decoration carried out in beading, applique, and embroidery. Also with thin lines of gold thread sewn throughout. The edges of the brim are similarly decorated. Remains of silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39148/
Hat
Hat of ecru lace and black horsehair. The high, slightly domed crown is formed of ecru lace, with a black satin ribbon bow to side, and a black satin band around the base of the crown, partly obscured by the lace. The wide, undulating black horsehair brim is oval, wider to sides than front to back. Inside of crown originally lined with fine, transparent black tulle, remains of which form an inner hatband at inside base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / della Donna / New York". Intended for afternoon wear. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39150/
Hat
Hat of gray fur felt. The derby style hat is made of a single piece of stiffened gray fur felt. The low, domed crown is encircled near the base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at back. The 2" wide brim curves upwards at edges. Hat is unlined, and has a band of black grosgrain ribbon inside at base of crown. Attached to the inner ribbon is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39147/
Wedding Shoes
Wedding shoes of off-white or champagne satin. The shoes have rounded toes, and no ornamentation. The medium-high heel is set under, is rounded at back and sides and curved at front, tapers to center and then swells to base, and is covered with matching satin; it has the same natural brown colored leather on the heel's cap and on the soles of the shoes. Stamped inside both shoes: "2 D13583" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39016/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The medium height, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, tapering slightly to ground. The sole is of tan leather. The shoes are lined in off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of brown rubber(?) with molded marks. Maker's mark in sole: "Hamilton-Brown / Makers / [illeg] Molded into heel: "Cushion Comfort Heel 2" Stamped in lining: "450 24512H" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39014/
Hat
Calotte-style hat of light brown velvet. Beige and red feathers as trim on front brim and bow of self on back. Lined in golden yellow satin with grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Small stitched mark on band showing front of hat. Designer's Label: "Hattie Carnegie" Retailer's Label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39130/
Hat
Hat of red straw. The low, flat-top crown slopes to base, swelling out to form a very narrow brim. The body of the hat is of a loose woven red straw overlaid with strips of woven red straw radiating from the top center of the crown. At the front of the hat is a dark red velvet bow. The interior of the hat is unlined, but the strips of straw continue under the brim, forming a self-lining. Around inside of crown at base is an inner hatband of dark red grosgrain ribbon. Attached to the inner hatband is a black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Beneath brim towards back extend small red velvet covered metal(?) loops to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Gilbert Orcel / Paris / Made in France. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Henri Bendel / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39137/
Dance Pumps
Pair of lady's dance pumps in white satin. The shoes are of white satin with large bow at vamp and a second bow on the strap which buttons across instep of each shoe. Low/flat heels. White leather insole, and sides lined with white fabric. Retailer's stamp on sole: "S.G. Maddox / Weatherford, Texas." Stamped inside: "4 D 520" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39012/
Cloche
Cloche of beige silk. The domed brim is of beige silk top-stitched and quilted to a base of grayish felt. The stitching is in the form of repeated and spiraling lines. At base of crown is wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon with bow at front. The brim is of the same material as crown, is shallow, and turns downward. It frames the face, with triangular extensions at sides. Hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39121/
Cloche
Cloche hat of straw. The high, domed straw is crown of sienna-red braid, with a band of solid reddish-pink silk around the base. Below the silk band is multi-colored ruched trim extending less than 1/4" from the band. Below the trim is a brim covered by sienna grosgrain ribbon, extending very slightly in front and disappearing in back. The hat is lined in a metallic bronze fabric. No designer's or retailer's labels, but hat does retain original price tag inside crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39113/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/very pale blue leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. The sole is of tan leather. Shoes are lined in matching leather and off-white cloth. Retailer's stamp on lining: "Byrn's Boot Sh [partly illeg] / Kansas City" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39015/
Hat
Hat of beige fur felt. The high, domed crown is of beige fur felt, wrapped by a wide silk satin ribbon woven in a plaid of olive green, orange, yellow, red, and tan. The ribbon extends for a significant distance off of the back of the hat to become streamers, and is held at the back of the crown by a circular conch of white shell. The brim is of the same fur felt, set off-center, with wider sections at front/right and shallower sections at back/left. All edges turn up, with a higher area at front/right. The hat is unlined, retaining much of the pelt on the underside of the brim and inside the base of the crown. Manufacturer's(?) marks inside crown, partly illegible. Intended for daytime wear, the hat is styled after the "Aussie" type hats worn by Australian troops during World War II. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39131/
Pumps
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38990/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of white leather. Shoes have a pointed toe, and cut-back area on either side of vamp to create a shallow "tongue". At top of vamp is large decorative rectangular pewter buckle with openwork along sides. One buckle lacking. White leather covered 2 3/8" high modified Louis or cuban heel. Partly illegible numbers written inside shoe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38994/
Wedding Slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of off-white/cream kid leather. Shoes have rounded toes, and three straps crossing vamp, each secured with small domed white glass buttons. Straps, vamp, and upper edges of shoes all edged with off-white silk stitching. Across vamp is small silk faille bow ornamented with white glass beads. Low 1 1/2" heel is a modified cuban or Louis heel, covered with white leather. "Volk's, Dallas, Texas" is stamped on inside. Partly illegible numbers stamped on inside. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38986/
Boots
Pair of black suede boots. Ankle-height boots of black suede, with pointed toes and decorative stitch accent at opening. Black suede tassel on heel from opening. 2 1/4" high "stacked" spike heel of black leather(?). Upper is lined in black leather, inner sole lined with red leather. Sole of dark brown leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Anne Klein / New York". Stamped on sole: "Anne / Klein / Made in Italy / 7 1/2 / M" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39040/
Toque
Toque hat covered in appliqued velvet leaves. The cloche-style hat has a domed crown completely covered with vari-colored velvet leaves/blossoms in shades of pink, red, green, gold, fuchsia, brown, purple, etc. At base of crown is tied a fuchsia velvet ribbon with bow with ribbons trailing at right. Slight brim below ribbon, which extends downwards. The hat is lined in pink/fuchsia lace, and has an inner purple/mauve grosgrain ribbon hatband inside base of crown. Sewn into inner ribbon hatband is retailer's label: "Stern and Mann / Millinery. Received with a period white-painted wooden hat-stand. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39202/
Beret
Beret of dark brown velvet. The soft, full crown is constructed of several pieces, all gathered into brown satin hatband. Hat is lined in cream silk(?) and has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Volk / Dallas". Label of United Hatters, Cap, and Millinery Workers International Union sewn into lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39234/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of tan fur. Low circular crown covered in light tan fur, likely mink. Lined in pink fabric with band of blue fabric inside lower edge, overlaid with gold rickrack band. On each side along inside lower edge is a small brown plastic comb secured by black elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87082/
Pillbox Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87088/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of brown and beige printed snakeskin. The shoes have 2" high brown, square chunky heel and oval toe. Designer label: "Stuart Weitzman / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87084/
Oxfords
Lace-up oxford style shoes of brown and beige leather, with a 1" flat heel and oval toe. Brown shoe laces. Designer label: "too / JOAN / & / DAVID / handmade in italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87086/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of draped chiffon burnout velvet. Cylindrical large pillbox hat with shaped lower rim. The crown is draped/pleated horizontally in a chiffon burnout velvet with printed abstract designs burnt orange, yellow, and blue. Lined in a brocaded blue and sparkly fabric. At lower inside edge is band of gold rickrack. Designer's label inside rim at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87083/
Shoes
Pair of black patent leather "pilgrim style shoes". Designed with a pointed toe that is squared off at tip, the shoes have a black patent leather upper, the instep panel extending up to form a large tongue. Set across instep is a large silver "C" shape simulating a buckle. The chunky heel tapers to base. Inside stamp illegible. Handwritten inside: "6 AA 745" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87013/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of ivory colored leather. On back of each glove is a stitched swirl design of 5 ribs. The gloves widen to end with piped hems, and extend to about mid-forearm. Appears to be a youth size. Stamped inside gloves: A) "ARIS" logo in hemisphere; "U.S. Pat. / Aug. 22'22"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. B) "5 3/4"; "U.S. Pat. / Sept 19'22 / Made in Germany"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87118/
Bonnet
Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87048/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Cotton streamer ties. Channel stitching and eyelet lace ruffle on stiffened visor/brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87049/
Hat
Hat of cream and gray striped fabric. Low, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At back of crown is band of vertically pleated band of same fabric, which extends to edge of brim. Narrow asymmetrical brim, wider in front. At back of brim is cream bow of thick velvet "string" with trailing ends. Underside of brim lined in cream velvet which extends up to edge the brim. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Lydia / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87046/
Slippers
Pair of slippers of red silk and gold metallic brocade. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, and a panel of gold leather that extends from below the throat, up and over the instep, and almost to the instep, sewn down, and echoing the point of the toes. Crossed with a gold cord bow with large rhinestones set at each end. Almost flats, the shoes have low, carved heels with a profile similar to a compacted Louis heel. Brand stamp: "Gustinettes / Trade Mark" Stamped inside: "6 1/2M 52770" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87032/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of deep red patent leather. Designed with squared toes, the vamp is enhanced with large applied black silk rosette. Heel of same red patent leather, tapering to base. Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Fenton Last" Handwritten inside: "7B / 53992 / B1371H" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87031/
Pumps
Pairs of pumps of green reptile patchwork. The shoes are designed with a pointed toe, and uppers made of triangular sections of dyed reptile pieced together. The sections are dyed in various shades of greens and browns. The throat has an extending triangular section which is oriented to point towards the wearer's leg. The low, chunky heels are covered with the same skin, and taper to base. Designer's label inside: "SusanBennisWarrenEdwards" Stamped inside: "4514 Zig-Zag 7" Stamped on sole: "Designed by / Susan / Bennis / Warren / Edwards / Hand Made / In Itayl / 7" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87037/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of black reptile. Designed as sling-back pumps with rounded, open toes, the instep is made of wide crossed bands of black leather, enhanced with top-stitching. The sides are cut-away at ankle, and a single black strap extending around back of heel, secured with small oval gold buckle. The high heels are a modified stiletto, somewhat thick, but of same shape. Combined designer's and retailer's stamp inside: "Bruno Magli / For / Bloomingdale's / Made in Italy" Stamped inside: "R984 6 1/2" Stamped on sole: "M / Vero / Cuoio / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87038/
Gloves
Evening gloves of midnight blue satin. Dark blue jersey knit at palms and fingers. 6cm slit on back of glove (ending at wrist). Two piece arms of gloves cross to form bow-like feature on back. Elbow length. Designer Label: Lucienne Harang / M / New York digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87034/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled somewhat as a fez, the hat has a slightly conical crown with flattened top. At back are two segments of black silk braid/knotwork. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Original / Helen Smith / Marshall Field Annex - Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87075/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of woven green ribbon-like paper. The pillbox hat has a low, slightly "dimpled" crown, and is formed of woven green paper ribbon in various widths. Lower edge is turned up and folded over. At back is a flat bow of same material. Hat is unlined, with pale green grosgrain ribbon along inside lower edge as inner hatband. Attached to either side at inner hatband is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87072/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of brown woven ribbon-like paper with a lustrous finish. The shallow cylindrical crown is slightly concave at top, and has a slightly undulating lower edge. Hat is lined with a printed fabric with Asian-style scene of bamboo and birds, edged with tan/beige grosgrain ribbon, and a band of gold rickrack. Attached at each side at inner edge is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87071/
Hat
Hat of beige felt. Styled somewhat as a fedora, the cylindrical crown has a sunken, flat crown. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of golden satin ribbon, and narrow cords of gold, bronze, and silver. All tie at back, the cords becoming tassels. The wide brim curves up at front and left, down to right and back. The hat is unlined, with a wide inner hatband of pale peach. Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Original / Helen Smith / Marshall Field Annex - Chicago" Manufacturer's stamp for felt body: "Merrimac / Merrivale / Fur Felt" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87077/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black straw, net, and velvet. The hatlet is based on a metal underframe shaped as an open circle, wrapped, on which are set six black straw pompom forms set in a circle about 6" in diameter. At center of circle is a bow of narrow black velvet ribbon with 4 extending trailing ribbons. The whole is set on a circular veil of black mesh net. Designer's label: "Norman-Pualvin / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87070/