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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan milan straw. The high crown is slightly dished, and narrows to brim, with wide band of tan/very pale green grosgrain ribbon at base with large "bow" at side. The straw brim is down-turned. The crown has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Roger Heim / Made in France Paris", and retailer's ribbon sewn just above designer's label: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38045/
Fan
Folding fan of bone and satin. Guards and sticks of bone, intricately carved with pierced latticework. Plain off-white silk satin leaf. Chased metal bail ring at pivot with mother-of-pearl beads. Off-white silk tassel tied to bail. Inscribed on silk leaf along one guard: "Hood W. [illeg.] / June 5th /73"; other inscriptions on other guard, too fragile to examine. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38052/
Fan
Folding fan with tortoise-shell frame. Sticks and loop of tortoise shell; possibly for brise style fan; missing leaf or ribbon. Measurements: 39 cm extended; guard 21 cm long x 3 cm wide digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38047/
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of carved and pierced ivory (bone?)with a foliage designs. The white sheer organdy leaf is hand-painted with central vignette of a garden scene of a couple greeting a woman seated on a bench. The leaf with added hand-panted border of a garland of flowers. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has been in-expertly mended at some point previous to entering collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38048/
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of lightly carved ivory (bone?) with scrolling foliate designs. The leaf is of white lace. Sticks are unadorned on the reverse. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has alternately been identified as Irish lace or machine-made lace, and dated 1830's or 1880-1899. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38046/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38037/
Hat
Hat of pale yellow/tan straw. The sailor-style hat has a domed crown of pale straw encircled at the base with a band of pale yellow velvet with "bow" loop at back. Over the ribbon is a band of fine veiling. The circular brim is of the same straw on top, but is of double-thickness, the underside of white straw. The inside of the crown with a wide off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by two short hatpins, with red velvet and gold ribbon heads. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38060/
Hat
Hat of white straw with red velvet and net trim. The domed crown of the hat is formed of three sections of white straw, two hemispheres overlapping a central band running front to back. Around the base of the crown is a wide red velvet ribbon with bow and trailing ends at back. Over the ribbon and brim is a fine red netting/veiling with scattered tiny white "blossoms" affixed to the netting/veiling. The flat, narrow brim turns under at the edge to create a double-thick edge. The inside of the crown has an off-white grosgrain inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38059/
Hat
Hat of brown lace and beads. The beret-style hat is formed as a low crown of brown lace decorated with bronze-colored beads in loops and strings. The hat is lined in white net, and has an inner hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. A stitched "star" on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat, and two attached small plastic combs help secure the hat to wearer's head. Joint designer's/retailer's label is sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / expressly for / Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38095/
Calotte
Hat of beige felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed beige felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The outer crown is "cut open" and "peeled back", to reveal the crown below. The lower edge of the crown is rolled up and in to create the appearance of a narrow rolled brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark beige grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" Supplier's mark stamped inside crown: "Riviera / Finest Quality / Velour / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38112/
Mourning Fan
Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38050/
Hat
Sailor-style hat of tan straw and brown yarn. The "crushable" hat has a tan/brown straw crown, slightly domed, with base of brown crocheted yarn. The circular brim, set off-center to the crown, is of double-thickness. The join between the crochet band and the brim has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original" When not worn, or padded, the had "deflates" or "crushes" down, the crocheted section not significantly supporting the crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38049/
Fan
Folding fan of cockade type. Red metal handle embossed with birds and flowering vines. The pleated paper fans forms a full circle. One side printed with a scene of a long-tailed bird (Phoenix?) sitting amid flowering branches with gold background. Reverse is printed with a scene of two birds flying over flowering branches. Marked in metal of handle: "Midget Fan / No. 104" and "Made in Hong Kong". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38051/
Shoes
Pair of modified Oxford-style shoes of brown leather. Lace-up at front, with six holes per side, with brown laces. Stitched detail on vamp and sides. Low 1" stacked heel, modified Louis or cuban style. Maker's label stamped inside: "Pace & Levy / Terrell, Tex" Illegible marks written inside shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38991/
Boots
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38997/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, have decorative band across toe cap with row of tiny holes along line of band. The boots close along center front with laces (laces lacking), 18 holes high. Medium/high stacked heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering slightly to base, and with curved front section. Sole of brown leather. Lined in off-white/tan canvas. Stamped on lining: "37 / 1 / 7395" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38998/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 19 holes high. The modified Louis or cuban 2" high stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front. Stamped on lining: "370 4331 0a 66 / Friedman-Shelby / St. Louis" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38999/
Wedding Slippers
Wedding slippers of ivory silk. Shoes have somewhat pointed toes, and ivory silk rosette at top of vamp. 2" high heels, tapering slightly to base, rounded at sides and back, curved at front. Retailer's stamp inside: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas Texas" Partly illegible handwritten numbers inside shoe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38996/
Pumps
Pumps of gray suede. Shoes have a slightly rounded toe, and a wide strap across vamp to which is applied a large gray ribbon bow with central silver-colored metal rectangular buckle shape. Medium 1 3/4' high modified Louis or cuban heel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38993/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black calf leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. High heels styled as a modified thick boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering slightly to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Stamped on lining: "355 31769" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38982/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan calf leather and tan cloth (canvas?). The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Lower section of shoes are of tan leather, embellished with tiny holes along stitching lines and in scrolling motifs at toe-boxes. Upper parts of shoes are of heavy tan fabric, likely canvas. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "16 0 21632X" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38981/
Shoes
Pair of white satin ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white satin upper has tabs which extend across the instep to form closure. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas & Waco." Maker's code stamped inside: "35 - 2 36463" Stamped on sole: "35 - / 2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38988/
Shoes
Shoes of ecru silk. Slightly pointed with rounded toe. Strap of self fabric across instep, fastening with button on outside of foot with rounded pearl-like glass button. 1 3/8" high Louis style heel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38984/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black silk. The shoes, designed as modified D'Orsay pumps with pointed toes, are of black silk with cut-away areas at sides. Toe-box with opening at vamp and "T"-strap extending from vamp to connect with strap across instep that extends from heel area. Instep strap secures on outer side of shoe with circular button. Tear-drop shaped cut-outs on either side near heel. Lined in black silk. Medium high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with very slightly curved front section. Heels covered with matching black silk on sides and back. Sole of tan leather. There are no marks or labels on the shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38989/
Wedding Slippers
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38986/
Cloche
Cloche of chocolate brown felt. The hat has a domed crown of brown felt to which is applied segments of sienna red/brown velvet as appliques, forming draping at sides. Unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39065/
Hat
Small cartwheel-style hat. Cylindrical crown of gold and ochre/brown brocade with irregular folds. Circular stiff brown velour brim, not as wide as a typical cartwheel hat but in the same style. Affixed to the crown near the brim on one side is a cluster of three cloth flowers and a sprig of cloth leaves. Affixed to the other side is a plume of brown ostrich feathers. Inside of crown lined in black silk. Embroidered inside crown is maker's marks, including an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39062/
Hat
Beret style hat of navy velvet. Small brim. Lined in black fabric gathered to center. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39061/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan straw. The high, domed crown is of woven tan straw in a spiraling pattern. On either side of the crown is an applique in blue, pink/gray, and black felt of an arc or half-circle. On one side, the arc points up, on the other side it points down. Around the base of the crown is a narrow band of black felt. The brim is also of woven straw, upturned at sides and edged with black felt. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze/gold fabric, now very shattered. Inside the crown is stitched an ornate label, with a view of two women playing tennis and the inscription: "Berkeley / Made in / California". A small arrow and the word "Front" indicates the front of the hat. Attached to an inner seam of the lining is size label "22". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39067/
Hat
Hat of off-white silk over straw base. The crown slightly rounded at top, covered in off-white silk, with ruching and folds around side. Affixed to sides of crown at various points are artificial flowers of various colors of velvet. The medium-width brim is circular, of woven straw, originally covered with off-white silk, now mostly perished. The inside of the crown is lined in off-white muslin, partly shattered, and the underside of the brim was originally lined in white silk, now mostly perished. There are no labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39060/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige felt. The high, domed crown is of dark beige/brownish felt, pulled and gathered to create texture at top back. The brim, of the same felt, is narrow, curving down at sides and up at back. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon, which passes through slots in the upturned back section of the brim. At the side of the hat, the ribbon is gathered slightly, and has three segments that extend forward around the crown, fanning upwards to partly cover the front of the hat. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze fabric. In crown of hat is ornate embroidered label consisting of an oval surmounted by a device with triple ostrich plumes; small coats of arms at the ends of the oval, and the text " Imported / Amhat / Chiffon Felt", with inscription below: "Reg. U.S. Patent Office". Attached inside base of crown is original paper tag: "Berlin / Amhat / New York" and "Triste / Imported / Chiffon Felt". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39064/
Hat
Hat of red purple/plum silk velvet. The hat has elements of a turban, tam-o-shanter, and beret. It is made with an oversized crown of red purple or plum velvet, gathered, caught, and draped, pulling under and then back out to form a brim that does not extend as far as the billows of fabric from the crown. The fabric is embellished with running lines of matching chenille, and clusters of silver-gray painted wooden beads. The hat is lined in black satin. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Pogue / Cincinnati". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39069/
Hat
Hat of brown felt with cloche style crown. Folded brim and front tie of same. Unlined with brown grosgrain ribbon headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39066/
Cloche
Cloche hat of olive green silk velvet. The domed crown is constructed in eight sections, and surrounded by a pleated band of the same materials. Around the base of the crown is a band of green and silver metallic woven fabric. At right side of hat are two wide pendant green velvet ribbons, and applied to the side above the ribbons are peach/pink and cream velvet blossoms with green cloth leaves. Flowers attach with straight pins. Hat is lined in black. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39063/
Fedora
Hat of gray felt. The hat is styled as a man's fedora. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Hat is unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York", with size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39045/
Pumps
Pumps of light tan ostrich skin. Shoes with rounded throat on vamp and edged with stitching. Vamp and outside panels with textured nubbly ostrich leather. 3 3/8" spike heels covered in smooth ostrich leather. Inner lining of silver metallic leather. Soles of natural brown leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Giorgio / Beverly Hills". Stamped inside right shoe: "US 5 1/2 74 N69". Stamped on sole of each shoe: partly illegible leather mark; "5 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39041/
Hat
Hat of burnt ocher/light brown felt. The hat is styled somewhat like a beret, with low, slightly domed oval crown. The crown is embellished with scattered beading, in a pattern of golden, clear, and purple beads in strings of four or five, and with scattered larger oval cabochon golden yellow "gems". The edge of the crown folds under at front, and folds back out at sides to form slight brim. Around the front half of the hat is attached a veil of black which is formed from two different designs of netting, sewn together. The upper veiling is of wide hexagonal mesh, while the lower veiling is a smaller hexagonal mesh, sewn to the upper with a scrolling brown thread forming loops and curves. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain inner hatband at inside base of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chez Jeré / Shreveport, LA.". Paper merchandise tag stitched to inner hatband: Obverse: "7112 / DNHH"; Reverse: "Tortuise / 55.00 [marked out] / 27.50" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39047/
Boots
Pair of black suede boots. Ankle-height boots of black suede, with pointed toes and decorative stitch accent at opening. Black suede tassel on heel from opening. 2 1/4" high "stacked" spike heel of black leather(?). Upper is lined in black leather, inner sole lined with red leather. Sole of dark brown leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Anne Klein / New York". Stamped on sole: "Anne / Klein / Made in Italy / 7 1/2 / M" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39040/
Hat
Lady's gray felt hat. Styled along the lines of a fedora, the gray felt crown is basically cylindrical with dished top and some shaping to provide a front "prow". Set at top edge of crown at back is a bow of matching gray felt ribbon. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of matching grosgrain ribbon as hatband. The shallow brim is set off-center, wider at front and sides than back. Brim curves down. Inside of hat is unlined, but has inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon. Maker's stamp on inner hatband: [Coat of arms] Stetson / Fifth Avenue" Retailer's stamp on inner hatband: "W. A. Green Co. / Dallas, Tex." Size tag sewn to inner hatband: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39102/
Hat
Hatlet of indigo felt and beads. The hatlet is formed as a roughly rectangular piece of stiffened navy blue felt worn across the head from ear to ear, edged with navy blue beads. Surmounting the hatlet is a stacked series of four smaller stiffened rectangular strips running across the head, each edged with navy blue beads, with a fifth piece running perpendicular across the whole from front to back, forming a bow-like form at top front of hatlet. Hatlet is lined in stiffened navy blue mesh, edged inside with band of dark blue/gray/black grosgrain ribbon. At either side are attached small plastic combs to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39225/
Hat
Hat of dark blue wool felt with pillbox-style crown and stiffened downward brim. Trimmed with wide grosgrain ribbon and shaped net. Designer's label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39221/
Hat
Hat of navy blue wool felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat is formed as a low crown of navy blue wool felt. At the back of the crown are nine staggered tucks running from the lower edge of crown to top, and then being tucked over and into a cut-out from 9 uneven tucks which radiate downward from the top of the crown towards the front of the hat. The hat is unlined, with an inner black/navy blue grosgrain ribbon hatband around inside base of crown. A stitched mark on hatband indicates front of hat. Designer's label is sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label is sewn to inner hatband: "Washer Bros / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39227/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat covered in dark green/black feathers, overlaid with floral appliques of black beading. Lined in black satin, edged with a thin band of dark jersey material and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label inside: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending almost from edge to edge across inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39220/
Hat
Hat of artificial flowers. The hat, styled as a modified calotte (also spelled "calot"), is formed of a low slightly domed crown extending at front and back of stiffened mesh completely covered with artificial flowers of pink and white silk and with green silk leaves and wired stems covered in green silk. The hat is unlined, the under layers of mesh visible. Inside the crown at the sides are two short sections of brown grosgrain ribbon with attached small plastic combs to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Sewn inside the crown is designer's label: "Irene of New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39228/
Alpine Hat
Alpine hat of dark green felt hat. Brim slightly turned up. Hatband of lighter green yarn with feather brush on one side with metal bird on handle. One metal hat pin with a stag and doe and a black and red emblem in top right corner. Unlined with leather inner headband. Labels inside crown: "Ludwig Zapf hutmacher Werfen" and "Lanz Salzburg". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39092/
Hat
Hat of deep green felt in modified alpine style. High crown with 2 bows of self as trim. Folded brim around front and sides of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with green grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lorie" Retailer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." Size tag: "registered model / 22 1/2" Paper price tag: "53-4 / 20.00" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39091/
Hat
Hat of brown felt. Styled similarly to an Alpine hat, the crown is of dark brown felt, with a triangular cross-section and flattened and "sunken" top. Around the base of the crown is a band of light brown grosgrain ribbon with one trailing end extending along brim to edge. The medium brim curves downwards at front, and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of light brown grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Jacqueline / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39090/
Cloche
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39099/
Hatlet
Hat of pale pink fine straw. The low, rounded crown is of woven fine pale pink straw with gold edging. At front of hat are two "petal" shapes emerging from the upper part of the crown and extending forward and down at the front of the hat. The shapes are of the same woven straw, edged in pink satin. The hat has a veil of fine pink netting, now partly perished. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of pink grosgrain ribbon around inside base of the crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Volk". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39096/
Hat
Hat of tan/light brown felt. The hat is somewhat in the style of a cloche, with an irregular "partly delfated" crown. At front is a small section of brim which turns up and extends vertically. At back of hat is a small vertical band of same material, with pointed ends. Designer's label inside: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39093/