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 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Suit

Suit

Date: 1946
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert, 1903-1959
Description: Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1930/1939
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of green suede pumps. Vamp of shoe with 5 bands of green satin ribbon running across the vamp and throat. The throat has V-cut sections on either side, with crossing bands of suede where the V intersects the ribbon. Lined in cream/grey kid leather. 2 1/2" high modified continental heels, covered in green suede. Stamped inside right shoe: " 'Charmant' / Fashions / A. Harris & Co. Dallas". Noted inside both shoes: "38 - 0 14465"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dinner Gown

Dinner Gown

Date: 1966
Creator: Maxwell, Vera
Description: Dinner gown of red velvet. The full-length dress is of deep red velvet, embroidered in black to form an all-over pattern of "fish scales". Neckline is rounded, higher in front than back, and has full-length sleeves with a modified leg-of-mutton effect at the shoulders and zipper closures at wrists. The bodice is seamed, and has a natural waistline. The neckline, waistline, and upper part of sleeves/shoulders are edged in black cording/braid. Skirt is slightly gathered into the waistline braid. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye closure at neck. Small panel lining front of bodice at bust, the rest of the gown unlined. No label sewn in garment, but retains original paper tag: obverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original"; reverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original / Fibre Content / 100% Wool / Style 121 / Size [blank] / Mat. [blank] / Account No. [blank]". This gown is one of the "Dance Hall Girl" dresses from Ms. Maxwell's Southwest American Collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ballgown

Ballgown

Date: 1985/1989
Creator: De la Renta, Oscar
Description: Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: De la Renta, Oscar
Description: Evening gown of ivory satin and black lace. Garment is a full-length, A-line ivory satin dress with 3 wide horizontal bands of applied black lace on skirt and an attached black lace empire-style over-bodice. The bodice, consisting of overlapping lace scallops, has a deep square neckline and full-length sleeves. There are two covered snap closures on each wrist and a series of paired covered snap closures down center back. The dress has a center-back zipper with a single hook-and-eye fastener at the neckline. The ivory silk inner bodice has internal steel(?) boning for shaping, and fastens with a center-back zipper and internal grosgrain band waist stay. Inside the gown is a full-length, attached ivory satin slip with horsehair hem. The dress is piece-lined in ivory organza with a horsehair hem. Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "4677S".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Jumpsuit

Jumpsuit

Date: 1966/1967
Creator: unknown
Description: Jumpsuit of pink, yellow, green and blue horizontal striped paper. The full-length rayon fiber remay paper pantsuit has olive green, pink, blue and tan stripes. Bodice is sleeveless, empire style, with with high rounded neckline and narrow spread collar, with stripes going horizontally. There is a center back zipper closure from the neck to hip-level. Pants are full-length, wide legged palazzo pants with vertical stripes. The pant legs are slit from the hem to mid-calf, and are unhemmed. The piece is lined in a white rayon fiber paper cloth. Retailer's label at inside left beneath the collar: "Change-In-Time / Boutique / Dallas, Texas".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1890/1899
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of brown linen. Made of a plain weave with both white and brown threads, the hat has pasteboard staves within the brim, a crenelated buttoning crown and long tail. The crown and tail are separate pieces, sewn together at neck seam, with the tail fastening to the sides of the brim by 3 off-white buttons on each side. The tail is semi-circular in shape, and the narrow chin ties are hemmed by hand. Poke-style bonnets are generally those that have brims stiffened either through quilting or plain starched fabric. Sunbonnets that rely on staves for brim support are not considered poke-style sunbonnets. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1952/1957
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Cocktail dress. The bodice of the dress is of sheer black wool, with a Peter Pan style collar and short sleeves which are shirred at the ends. There is a narrow black satin ribbon at waist where the bodice meets the skirt. The skirt is composed of three layers. The innermost layer is of thick black chiffon, the middle layer is thin black chiffon/crepe. The outer layer is of panels of black and white printed hounds tooth/plaid chiffon, the panels arranged vertically and slit from 5" below waistline to hemline. The panels are gathered/pleated into the waistband. At the top of each slit is an applied black satin bow, forming a row of bows around the hip-line of the skirt. Each panel has side borders of black satin ribbon. The dress has a center-back zipper from neckline to below hips, with a single hook-and-eye at top of collar. There is an inner black grosgrain ribbon waistband, with hook-and-eye closure. The bodice is lined in sheer black material. Designer's label inside skirt: "Galanos"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1950
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. The dress is accompanied by a long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". No labels on scarf.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt

Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert, 1903-1959
Description: Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. The accompanying straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". This garment reflects Adrian's celebration of the lifting of wartime restrictions on types and quantities of materials and trimmings that could be used in making clothes.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design