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 Country: France
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30014/
Dress
Dress of polychrome cotton print. The floor-length dress is of cotton fabric with a raised "zig-zag" texture, in the style of cotton piqué weaving. It is printed with a series of horizontal bands in geometric designs in blues, reds, greens, tan/brown, orange, and purple. The sleeveless dress has a shallow boat neckline in front and deep squared-off neckline at back. The fitted bodice section ends at the natural waist, into which the long skirt is slightly gathered. The front of the skirt has two patch pockets of the same material, with the print matched to disguise the pockets. One of the lower bands of the skirt is embellished with applied non-functional circular gold-colored "buttons". The hem of the dress has a 7 cm. wide band horizontal band of red wool trim, from which hangs red wool fringe. The center back zipper closure has a single hook-and-eye at top. The dress is lined in red fabric. The dress has two labels sewn inside. At left side at seam is designer's label "Lanvin / Paris New York"; at right side near zipper is size label "6". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30013/
Miniskirt
White leather mini-skirt with 4 applied black leather bands running horizontally around skirt. White leather suspenders attached at back, cross at back, and run over shoulders to fasten at circular white leather-covered buttons on waistband in front. Fully lined in white nylon. Label inside back of skirt at waistband: "Courreges / Exclusively Designed in / Leather and Fabric for / Samuel Robert". Photograph shows the skirt as displayed in the exhibition "The Art of Fashion: The Radical Sixties", held December 1, 1990-February 24, 1991, at the Kimbell Art Museum, Fort Worth, Texas. The long-sleeved black turtleneck knit top is modern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30085/
Ensemble - Blouse and Pants
Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants. The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes. The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style. Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France". The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, based on the particular way that the shibori tye-dying technique has been used on the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30096/
Cocktail Suit
(On Left) Cocktail suit of black silk satin. The waist-length jacket is formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. The jacket has a center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. The jacket is lined in black silk. The matching mid-length skirt is of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. There is three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. The skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric. Jacket has designer's label: "Chanel" Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30046/
Dress
Evening dress of blue silk gazar. The full-length dress has a fitted bodice simulating a wrap style, with V neckline, and long straight sleeves with 5 fabric buttons at each wrist. The skirt has an asymmetrical peplum with an inverted opening in front that is equal to the floor length A-line skirt, giving the effect of an over-skirt pulled back to reveal an underskirt. At back is a zipper closure from neckline to below hips, with a series of snaps at the top of the peplum. The dress has an accompanying leather belt covered with the same blue silk gazar. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30275/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30274/
Evening Pumps
Pair of reddish-pink or coral silk satin evening pumps. Square toe shoes which have a large open area on the vamp which is backed by clear plastic and edged by braid. The plastic is overlaid with a metal net or chain mail with rhinestones at the intersections. 2 1/4" square heel covered with same material. Lined in off-white/gray leather. Stamped inside each shoe: "Made in Italy / Espressly / For / Lou Lattimore" (Espressly rather than Expressly); and "Creation Mancini / Paris / Waltea made in Italy" Stamped on sole of each shoe: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30216/
Toque
Toque of fuschia felt. Cylindrical hat is covered in a fuschia/dark pink felt with over-lapping layers simulating a turban. Flattened top with slight ridge. The whole is covered in blue, green, and pink lines of stitching which radiate from the center of the crown outwards and down the sides. At the back of the hat is a bow of blue and red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, but has a red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30185/
Toque
Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30134/
Hat
Hat of black silk chiffon. The hat is formed from a cylindrical pillbox style hat surmounted by a conical section that is folded back and flares out to form an extension behind the hat. Where the surmounting piece meets the pillbox is a black bow formed from the same cloth. Inside of crown is lined in stiff black netting, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the base of the crown. A small plastic comb is sewn in front of hat to inner ribbon to secure it to wearer's head. No labels. The donor records that "... Balenciaga showed it with dress and sleeveless coat..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30135/
Hat
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30132/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black straw. The hat has a broad brim of woven black straw with an upturned outer edge which is trimmed in black velvet. The low, domed crown is also of woven black straw, with a band of black ostrich feathers around the base of the crown. One large ostrich feather plume attached to base of crown and extends out and over the back of the brim. Inside crown is black cloth lining. Sewn inside crown is black cloth label: "Mme Georgette / 11 Rue Scribe / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30190/
Calotte
Calotte of beaded black satin. Evening hat in the form of a calotte (also spelled "calot"). The low, domed crown is made of segments of black satin over a core of woven straw. The surface is embellished with black plastic sequins and beads of various sizes. At top of crown is small squashed spheroid finial covered with a pattern of cylindrical and circular faceted black plastic beads. Inside lower edge of crown is black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn behind band are three elastic loops to help secure hat to head of wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30149/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket of brown and white printed silk plaid or tartan. The waist-length jacket has a turn-down collar and wrist-length sleeves. It is single-breasted with a center front opening with four large circular brown plastic buttons and piped buttonholes. The jacket is fully lined in off-white silk. Designer's label located inside below center back of collar: "Made in / France / Givenchy". The matching dress is mid-length, to just below the knee, with round neck and princess seaming. It is sleeveless, and has box pleats at lower part of skirt. There is a zipper closure at left side. The dress is lined with off-white silk throughout with the exception of the box pleated area. Designer's label at inside side seam near right armhole: "Givenchy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30165/
Platform Lace-Up Sandals
Pair of platform sandals. Silver leather covered black plastic(?) sole with silver metal lace and cords. 4" spike set-back heel. Marked in relief on sole of each shoe: "Made in France". Anonymous gift to the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30024/
Hat
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30161/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30164/
Coat
Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots. Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France". This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076) Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30166/
Hat
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30163/
Hat
Hat with long flowing black feathers falling from a sculpted black silk tulle crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30195/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat covered with draped silk scarf of black with pink polka dot print. Knotted accent on back states "Balenciaga" on pink border with frayed ends. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30136/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk satin with a puff of ostrich feathers at right side. Organza bow atop feathers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30178/
Ensemble
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30045/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan milan straw. The high crown is slightly dished, and narrows to brim, with wide band of tan/very pale green grosgrain ribbon at base with large "bow" at side. The straw brim is down-turned. The crown has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Roger Heim / Made in France Paris", and retailer's ribbon sewn just above designer's label: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38045/
Fan
Folding fan with tortoise-shell frame. Sticks and loop of tortoise shell; possibly for brise style fan; missing leaf or ribbon. Measurements: 39 cm extended; guard 21 cm long x 3 cm wide digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38047/
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of carved and pierced ivory (bone?)with a foliage designs. The white sheer organdy leaf is hand-painted with central vignette of a garden scene of a couple greeting a woman seated on a bench. The leaf with added hand-panted border of a garland of flowers. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has been in-expertly mended at some point previous to entering collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38048/
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of lightly carved ivory (bone?) with scrolling foliate designs. The leaf is of white lace. Sticks are unadorned on the reverse. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has alternately been identified as Irish lace or machine-made lace, and dated 1830's or 1880-1899. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38046/
Fan
Folding fan of bone and satin. Guards and sticks of bone, intricately carved with pierced latticework. Plain off-white silk satin leaf. Chased metal bail ring at pivot with mother-of-pearl beads. Off-white silk tassel tied to bail. Inscribed on silk leaf along one guard: "Hood W. [illeg.] / June 5th /73"; other inscriptions on other guard, too fragile to examine. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38052/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. The domed crown is constructed with the the outline of a rounded square, with attached stiffened double-brim, which turns up on all sides, forming a point at front and at sides, but rounded in back. At the back of the hat the brim extends downwards, forming a point. The hat is unlined, and edged with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. A small stitched star on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Visible behind the ribbon in one section is the woven straw backing used to stiffen the brim. Designer's label inside crown, sewn to ribbon band: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made" Stamped inside crown on felt: Circular mark containing a logo of three rabbits and partly missing word "... URLAP", and below logo ".... en France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38028/
Fan
Folding fan with intricately carved and decorated tortoiseshell guards and sticks. Leaf of stiffened off-white organdy, heavily embroidered with steel paillettes and gold sequins. Embroidered and sequined peacock feathers applied to ends of alternating sticks. Pivot-point at end set on each side with blue stone. Measurements: 45 cm width (open) Guard: 22 cm length, 2 cm width digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38041/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38053/
Pumps
Pair of speckled taupe leather pumps. Uppers of light taupe leather embellished with tiny grayish flat pebbled textural design. Toe cap of black patent leather. 3 3/4" spike heel covered in black patent leather. Lined in olive leather except inner heel, which is lined in natural light brown leather. Soles of black leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France". Stamped inside each heel: "37 X 7 2A 586855 NF". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39038/
Pumps
Pair of tan and black leather sling-back pumps. Uppers of tan/brown leather with black leather toe cap. Sling-back strap with gilt metal buckle. 2 3/4" continental heel covered in tan/brown leather. Shoe lined in putty colored leather. Sole of natural brown leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Made in France"; Chanel / [logo]". Stamped inside upper: "105002 37". Stamped on sole: "37 / DE / [logo] / Coupe monte fini main". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39036/
Hat
Hat of ecru lace and black horsehair. The high, slightly domed crown is formed of ecru lace, with a black satin ribbon bow to side, and a black satin band around the base of the crown, partly obscured by the lace. The wide, undulating black horsehair brim is oval, wider to sides than front to back. Inside of crown originally lined with fine, transparent black tulle, remains of which form an inner hatband at inside base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / della Donna / New York". Intended for afternoon wear. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39150/
Calotte
Hat of red satin and sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of dark red satin almost completely covered in sequined floral appliques. Irregular lower edge, following the outline of the appliques. Lined in black paper (?) and satin, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the band indicates the front of the hat, and a small applied white ribbon bow is set at back. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending across the inside of the hat, the "Paris", most of "New" and all of "York" are cut off. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39216/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan linen. The off-the-face cloche has a high, domed crown embellished with white saddle stitching along seams. The brim is of the same material, folded up at front and descending down at sides and is turned down at back. At center back is a separation in the brim, with a small tan linen bow between the sections. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside the base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Reproduction / Rose Descat / 22 Rue Royale / Paris"; Second label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39139/
Hat
Hat of silk faille. The body of the hat is made of woven straw, covered with beige/off-white silk faille. The shallow, domed crown is made in two parts - the upper shallow dome, and a collar into which the upper crown is inset. The upper edge of the collar is pipped in black. The shallow sloping brim is similarly constructed, with an inner band and then outer section with a black pipped edge between the sections. The crown is unlined, revealing the woven straw. The brim segments are lined in the same faille of the outside of the hat. Around the inside of the crown is an inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon, two which is attached a black elasticized cord to secure the hat to wearer's head. A small red/brown stitch on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39136/
Turban
Turban of pleated brown wool jersey. The high-crowned turban is composed of pleated concentric bands of fabric. The hat is lined in mesh covered with cream/pale yellow silk, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A stitched mark on headband shows front of hat, and small applied ribbon bow shows back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, almost reaching from headband to headband across inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39198/
Hat
Hat of off-white French linen. The soft crown is domed and formed of six segments. Around the base of the crown is a red linen ribbon, threaded through a series of six "belt-loops" spaced around the base of the crown at approximately where the segments join. The slightly stiffened, and quilted in a pattern of concentric circles. The hat is unlined, and has an inner hatband of off-white linen at inside base of crown. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39180/
Hat
Hat of red straw. The low, flat-top crown slopes to base, swelling out to form a very narrow brim. The body of the hat is of a loose woven red straw overlaid with strips of woven red straw radiating from the top center of the crown. At the front of the hat is a dark red velvet bow. The interior of the hat is unlined, but the strips of straw continue under the brim, forming a self-lining. Around inside of crown at base is an inner hatband of dark red grosgrain ribbon. Attached to the inner hatband is a black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Beneath brim towards back extend small red velvet covered metal(?) loops to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Gilbert Orcel / Paris / Made in France. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Henri Bendel / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39137/
Skimmer
Skimmer hat of straw and silk. The skimmer, or boater style hat has a low woven straw crown with flat top. Around the crown is a matching woven straw ribbon edged in brown silk, with a bow at back. The wide, flat brim is of woven straw, covered with brown silk matching the trimming of the band on the crown. The silk covering is quilted in a pattern of concentric bands with running wavy lines. The crown and underside of the brim are unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband at base of crown. Extending from the inner hatband are two panels of brown silk, forming a chin-strap with black cord knot fastener. A small "F" is stitched to inner hatband to indicate the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / Maynor Hats / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39165/
Cloche
Cloche of pale green straw and orange velvet. Domed crown of the cloche-style hat is overlaid with orange/red velvet leaf shapes. Around the sides of the crown are applied overlapping circular panels of pale green braided straw. On the left side of hat a single straw panel is placed low so that half of it hangs below the crown. Inside of hat is lined with peach silk. Designer's label inside crown: "Dauphine / Paris / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39122/
Cloche and Scarf Set
Cloche hat of embroidered pink linen. The slightly domed crown is made of pink linen with all-over tiny white embroidered polka-dots. The matching brim is turned up at front, sewn to crown, and descends at sides, turning downwards at back. At center back the brim is split, with a bow of the same fabric affixed at the split. The hat is lined with white silk. There are no labels or tags in the hat. The hat is accompanied by a necktie/scarf of the same fabric. Original records indicate the set is probably French in origin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39142/
Hat
Hat of gray fur felt. The low, rounded crown is made of gray beaver(?) fur felt over a structure of woven straw. Brim is of same felt, and appears narrow in front, but rolls under and extends back under crown. At sides and back, brim curves upwards, and then back downwards to extend under crown. Along sides and back of crown is section of gray grosgrain ribbon which projects through the upturned brim at back and becomes a large bow with trailing ends. There is an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the edges of the brim where they meet the inside base of the crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head, and attached to the front brim underside is a plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Legroux Soeurs / 4 Rue Cambon Paris / Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39141/
Hat
Hat of gray fur felt. The derby style hat is made of a single piece of stiffened gray fur felt. The low, domed crown is encircled near the base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at back. The 2" wide brim curves upwards at edges. Hat is unlined, and has a band of black grosgrain ribbon inside at base of crown. Attached to the inner ribbon is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39147/
Hat
Hat of royal blue velour. The crown is somewhat domed, of pieced velour, with a band of rolled dark blue satin around the base. The wide brim of matching velour is shaped to dip down and turn up slightly around the crown. The hat is unlined, with a band of dark blue grosgrain ribbon sewn in between the inner edge of the crown and the brim. Designer's label sewn inside: "Rose Descat / Paris", with a second label sewn to lower edge of designer's: "Made In France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39140/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39144/
Hatlet
Hatlet of burgundy fabric covered with artificial flowers. The hatlet is formed as an oval of stiffened burgundy fabric intended to be worn across the top of the head. The hatlet is almost entirely covered with artificial flowers of velvets, silk, and other fabrics. The flowers are primarily in pinks/purples/reds, with green stems and leaves. The hat is lined in black satin and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is very large, extending across the full width of the inside of the hatlet, the word "Paris" partly obscured by the grosgrain ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39178/
Pumps
Pair of lady's dancing pumps of red kid leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of soft red fine kid leather leather with a square-ended flap at vamp/instep, and applied red satin bow at vamp. The inner sole of the shoe is a dark red quilted satin. The low heels are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and straight across at front. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather at heel and tan on rest of shoe. Stamped in sole on one shoe: "2", on other: "4". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39013/