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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Evening Gown
Evening gown of red velvet. Floor length with wide, rounded neckline with deep scoop in back and 3/4 raglan sleeves. 1/2" and 1/4" round pearl beads sewn 2" apart over entire dress. Full-length, natural waist A-line skirt with slight train. Zipper closure at center back. Unlined with bodice and sleeved interfaced in maroon silk chiffon. Designer's label at inside right side seam under arm: "EISA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30193/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of black rayon velvet; bustle trimmed with ermine tails; column shaped; built-in undergarment with boning; bustle lined in buckram. In box with dress: box with spare tails from Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30144/
Evening Cape
Evening cape of pale pink silk gazar; oversized, rectangular shaped with shoulder corners turned-in forming diagonal armholes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30202/
Jacket
Waist-length black simulated alligator jacket. The cropped shell is constructed of panels of leather blind-stamped to simulate alligator. Panels are edged with silver-colored circular metal grommeted eyelets, and are joined with knitted black cording. The high, rounded spread collar is of ribbed black knit. Zipper closure from throat to hem at center front. The jacket is unlined, and has two interior, black canvas, envelope pockets with snap closures. Label is located inside at center back, below the collar. "Paco Rabanne / Paris Made in France". Jacket was donated as part of an ensemble which also included black wool and cashmere knit sweater by Dior, and black hip-hugger trousers by Remy. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30238/
Evening Jacket
Evening jacket of black net and gold embellishments; collarless jacket has long sleeves and flared shaped with zipper CF; constructed of layered netting with encased gold lame cut outs and leaf motifs of black lace, gold lace, beading, sequins, and gold braid by Lesage. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30276/
Skirt Suit
Suit of black ribbed fabric. (a) jacket with notched collar of sateen; center front welted button closure; pink buttons with gold snake; armhole princess seams; double darts from pocket to bust point; faux single welt pockets with gathers; long sleeves with curved half cuffs in pink sateen with button closure; armhole princess seams on back; pink lining; pleat at center back. (b) matching knee-length skirt; waistband; 1 front waist dart; 1 front princess seam; center back closure; waistline darts; black lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30318/
Evening Ensemble
Evening ensemble. A) Bustier bodice of white lace. Cropped. Black organza lower "skirt" to bodice. Wide band of lace at top, attached in four places (perhaps for arms or shoulders). Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Oscar de la Renta" and "Made in USA" tag; Size label: "6" B) Skirt of ruffled black net. Full length. Inner full organza skirt with wide hem band of horsehair stiffener. Outer full skirt of black net with 21 (?) layers of ruffled black dotted net. C) Belt of black leather, covered in black fabric. Black fabric covered square buckle. Stamped on reverse: "4 Oscar de la Renta 717" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30267/
Men's Pants
Man's olive green cotton corduroy pants with no waistband or pockets. Metal hook front closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30168/
Men's Shirt
Men's button front bright pink. orange. blue and green multi-colored ocean print Irish cotton shirt. Wide dog's-ear collar. Long sleeved. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30167/
Dress
Dress. Bodice of vertically striped blue and black satin with short sleeves in black. Shallow v-neck trimmed with band of gold net ribbon which continues down center of back to waist. Bodice has black band just below bust line as "hem". Below this hem is pleated sash of blue and black striped materials at raised waistline, and a second band of the striped material running vertically from below "hem" to under top tier of skirt. Mid-calf-length black skirt with two vertical tiers of long box pleats from waistline. Bodice is lined in cream silk(?) with wide ribbon inner waistband, with cream-trimmed pads added at underarms. Skirt is lined in black. Garment fastens down back from neck to mid-thigh with a series of hook-and-eye and hook-and-loop closures. Sash around waist fastens at center front and has hook-and-loop closures running around left side to back. Garment has no labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29990/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of black and gold brocade in a large scale tropical motif. The wrap-style coat has a shawl collar of red fox fur with kimono style sleeves trimmed in fox. The coat is fully lined in gold silk velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29997/
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt, Blouse and Scarf
Ensemble of teal silk Ottoman. The suit consists of a jacket and skirt, blouse, and scarf. The jacket is of horizontally ribbed teal silk, banded on the bias, has a rounded neckline, is long sleeved, and has princess seaming for a tailored fit. The sleeves have soft pleating at the shoulders, and there are 3 circular gold buttons set with rhinestones at each cuff. There is a center front closure with 4 large buttons matching the style of sleeve buttons and one hidden snap at top. The buttonholes are hidden in the seam of the opening. The jacket is lined in black silk. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back of neck: "Richard Brooks". The matching skirt is of the same silk Ottoman, below-knee length, with soft pleats at front and darts at back from waistband down 5 1/2". Small slit at center back from hem upwards. The sides are cut on straight vertical stripe. The waistband has hook and two eyes, and there is a center back zipper closure. The skirt is lined in teal silk. There are no labels in the skirt. The blouse is of a thin teal green and metallic gold jacquard, woven with an ornate all-over paisley pattern. There is a banded collar and slight pleating/gathering on front at yoke, and at top of the long sleeves. Center back zipper closure extends from collar almost to hem, and has two hook-and-eyes at collar. The blouse has attached shoulder pads. There is no label in the blouse. An accompanying scarf is of iridescent teal silk chiffon, edged with the same jacquard materials the blouse is made from. There is no label on the scarf. Designed for Texas Governor Ann Richards. The silk is from Abraham Fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30305/
High-Heeled Shoes
One pair of woman's high-heeled shoes with split t-strap, forming an inverted "V" from vamp to strap. The shoes are covered in a metallic copper/bronze silk textured weave and edged in gold metallic finished leather. The Boulevard set-under heels are lacquered with a metallic gold finish and set with rhinestones. One shoe with label inside: "Wise Shoe / For Every Occasion" Both shoes with hand-marked notations: "6 1/2 aa / D30014 / 11-564" Some rhinestones on the heels have been replaced at some point in the past with other rhinestones that do not quite match the original stones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30053/
Hat
Hat of white straw. The beret-style hat of white straw, the crown formed of 8 segments. Extending from one side are two "swallow-tail" segments of off-white grosgrain ribbon. Inside of crown lined in panels of off-white grosgrain, and with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon, one white and one brown. Label sewn to brown inner hatband: "Belmar" (Possibly "Betmar") digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38062/
Hat
Hat of white straw and navy blue/black embroidery appliques. The domed crown is of finely woven white straw. The narrow brim turns up at the edges, somewhat irregularly, and is edged in dark navy blue/black embroidery appliques that cover upper and lower parts of the brim. The inside of the crown has a dark navy blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made". Accompanied by two short hat-pins, one with a head covered in matching straw, the other with a simulated pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38061/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of yellow plastic/vinyl tubing. Top of crown formed of a coil of the tubing bent into a square or diamond shape, encircled by more coiled tubing forming a circle, leaving open areas. The sides of the crown have other open areas, and form slight scallops at lower edge. Extending through the tubing from upper edge of crown is black net veiling, with small pieces of the yellow tubing worked into some of the intersections of the veiling. Interior of crown lined with yellow mesh, cut away at openings, and edged with a thin strip of beige/yellow velvet. Two small plastic combs are attached at either side to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's Label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"; a second hand-written label sewn in: "510" Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38067/
Hat
Hat of pale yellow/tan straw. The sailor-style hat has a domed crown of pale straw encircled at the base with a band of pale yellow velvet with "bow" loop at back. Over the ribbon is a band of fine veiling. The circular brim is of the same straw on top, but is of double-thickness, the underside of white straw. The inside of the crown with a wide off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by two short hatpins, with red velvet and gold ribbon heads. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38060/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of knit material with embroidery and mirrors. The black fabric of the hat is covered with yellow embroidered star shapes and small circular mirrors ca. 1.5 cm. in diameter bordered by red thread embroidery/crochet. Cylindrical crown formed as slightly "crushed", folding in in some areas and bulging out in others, and with gently scalloped lower edge. Top is generally flat, with an applied tear-drop shaped section of the same material, with trailing "ribbons" of same material extending off of back of hat. The edge of the applied panel and the lower edge of the crown are edged with alternating red and black beads, with two strands and two loops of the same beading descending from the between the "ribbons" at top. The inside of the crown is lined in red mesh and edged with red grosgrain ribbon. There are two plastic combs, one at either side, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38068/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue appliques. The hatlet is composed of a small square or diamond shaped skullcap of dark blue mesh overlaid with dark blue braid appliques in scrolling forms decorated with french knots. Around the four sides are further triangular shaped appliques, wired along the edges, to stand up around the crown. Affixed near the lower edges of the hatlet is dark blue net veil. Hatlet is lined with blue mesh and edged with a thin band of dark navy blue velvet. At either side are small plastic combs to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mr. William T. Doyle, through the Chicago Historical Society. From the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38064/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. Black velvet hatlet has a shallow domed crown edged with large upstanding "M" shapes and descending "V" shapes of black velvet edged with black beads. The overall effect is of a child's image of a coronet. The whole is overlaid with black net veil, with triplets of black beads worked into some intersections of the net. Crown is lined in black mesh netting and edged with black grosgrain ribbon. Two plastic combs inside crown help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38069/
Hatlet
Hatlet of brown velvet and plastic. Hatlet in calot (also spelled "calotte") style. Low circular domed crown of deep copper brown velvet is edged with band consisting of seven diamond-shaped plastic tortoiseshell plaques threaded and tied on two strands of brown plastic tubing. Surmounting hat is fine veil of brown netting. Crown is lined with brown mesh and edged with inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon. Three plastic combs are attached to inner hatband to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of William T. Doyle, from the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38066/
Hatlet
Hatlet of modified calot type with brown, beige, white, blue and green feathers, the whole covered with a very fine veil sprinkled with tiny rhinestones. Inside of crown lined at center with a green silk(?), edged with green grosgrain ribbon. Outer part of crown lined in a green knit material. Attached to grosgrain ribbon are Hatpin of matching material. Lined in green fabric. Two combs attached to both sides of green grosgrain headband. No labels. Attributed to Bes-Ben at time of donation. Gift of Mr. William T. Doyle, through the Chicago Historical Society. From the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38063/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan milan straw. The high crown is slightly dished, and narrows to brim, with wide band of tan/very pale green grosgrain ribbon at base with large "bow" at side. The straw brim is down-turned. The crown has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Roger Heim / Made in France Paris", and retailer's ribbon sewn just above designer's label: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38045/
Fan
Folding fan. Thin polished wood or bamboo guards lacquered a dark mahogany. The thin sticks are dyed purple. Paper leaf with hand-painted abstract design of flowers and foliage on a reddish ground. Metal bail. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels or marks. Gift of Mrs. Arthur Kramer, Sr., from the original Dallas Musuem of Fashion collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38042/
Fan
Folding fan with intricately carved and decorated tortoiseshell guards and sticks. Leaf of stiffened off-white organdy, heavily embroidered with steel paillettes and gold sequins. Embroidered and sequined peacock feathers applied to ends of alternating sticks. Pivot-point at end set on each side with blue stone. Measurements: 45 cm width (open) Guard: 22 cm length, 2 cm width digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38041/
Fan
Folding fan with tortoise-shell frame. Sticks and loop of tortoise shell; possibly for brise style fan; missing leaf or ribbon. Measurements: 39 cm extended; guard 21 cm long x 3 cm wide digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38047/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38040/
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of carved and pierced ivory (bone?)with a foliage designs. The white sheer organdy leaf is hand-painted with central vignette of a garden scene of a couple greeting a woman seated on a bench. The leaf with added hand-panted border of a garland of flowers. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has been in-expertly mended at some point previous to entering collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38048/
Hat
Hat of white straw. Bonnet-style small summer hat of white Milan straw. The crown is formed of segments that arch over the head and enclose at back. Front with turned-back brim framing the face. Accented at right side by three black velvet circles. Lined inside along all edges with white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus". Intended to be worn on the back of the head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38044/
Hat
Sailor-style hat of tan straw and brown yarn. The "crushable" hat has a tan/brown straw crown, slightly domed, with base of brown crocheted yarn. The circular brim, set off-center to the crown, is of double-thickness. The join between the crochet band and the brim has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original" When not worn, or padded, the had "deflates" or "crushes" down, the crocheted section not significantly supporting the crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38049/
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of lightly carved ivory (bone?) with scrolling foliate designs. The leaf is of white lace. Sticks are unadorned on the reverse. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has alternately been identified as Irish lace or machine-made lace, and dated 1830's or 1880-1899. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38046/
Hat
Hat of natural straw. Circular straw crown, slightly domed, with black grosgrain ribbon around base and surrounded by shaped straw brim. Brim is rounded in front for about 2/3 of circumference, and bound up with red stitching at back to form three corners at back. All edges of brim turned-up and edged in black velvet ribbon. From above, brim shape resembles a baseball field. Inside of crown with black grosgrain inner hatband, to which is attached two black elastic cords to secure combs to help hold hat on wearer's head. At front of hat is stitched a small "F" on the inner hatband to show front of hat. Designer's label inside crown at inner band: "Wm Silverman / New York", with smaller logo-form tag sewn in under larger label: "Wm Silverman" with scissors, needle and thread. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38043/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black plastic tubing. Formed as an open circular crown, the hatlet is composed of three sections of black tubing shaped as crescents, attached at points. Overlaid with black net veiling with sections of black tubing affixed at some intersections. Crown is lined with black mesh, and edged in black velvet. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of William T. Doyle, from the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38065/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38035/
Fan
Folding fan with mother-of-pearl sticks and guards. Leaf of white needlepoint lace backed3with cream satin. Silver-colored "U" shaped bail ring at bottom. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38032/
Hat
Hat of straw and velvet. The short, cylindrical crown is of woven natural-colored straw, with off-center "peak". The crown is edged along top with a narrow band of orange velvet. The sides of the crown are covered in black velvet, and there is an inner band of black velvet-covered straw that extends below the sides of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. On the band, a small sewn start designates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made", and with a (later?) price tag attached. Accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered with woven straw matching the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38031/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38037/
Hat
Hat of navy blue straw. The turban-like hat is composed of a bulbus crown of woven navy blue straw which is edged in grosgrain ribbon. For one-half of the distance around the hat, the ribbon is dark navy blue, for the other half it is red. The two ends cross over in the front, with ends extending upwards on the front of the hat. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38030/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38038/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38034/
Fan
Folding fan with wooden sticks and guards, and paper leaf. The guards have applied celluloid(?) panels, the lower sections plain and the upper decorated with pastel "scales" in blue and yellow. Set with colored stones in square recesses. The paper leaf is painted on one side with a stylized design of clusters of roses in reds, pinks, and yellow/orange on a pink/mauve ground with blue shapes. "U"-shaped bail ring at bottom. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38039/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38036/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38033/
Hatlet
Hatlet of straw and velvet. Formed as a modified X-shaped skullcap, the hatlet is made of woven straw with white straw warp and gold ribbon weft, edged in a narrow ribbon of light tan velvet. At the center of the crown is applied pair of bows of the same velvet ribbon. Evidence of fine brown veiling, now gone. Interior of crown lined in taupe mesh and edged with taupe gros-grain ribbon. Attached at either side is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38075/
Hatlet
Hatlet of white beadwork. Base of hatlet is an irregularly shaped openwork skullcap of stiffened white mesh completely covered in white beads. Surmounting the cap are three 3-dimensional bow forms made of white beads. Hatlet has black mesh veiling, with scattered pairs of white beads worked into some intersections. Cap lined with stiffened white mesh. At either side are attached small plastic combs to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38072/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue wool with embroidery and mirrors. Base of hatlet formed of an irregularly-shaped skullcap of dark navy blue wool decorated with embroidered lines, bands, etc. in red, yellow, and white. Over the surface of the fabric are small 1.5 cm. diameter mirrors in pink and red stitched borders. All edges are trimmed in gray/purple beads. Surmounting the hatlet are three bows of the same materials, and the whole is overlaid with fine dark blue veiling. Hatlet is lined in dark blue mesh and edged underneath with dark blue grosgrain ribbon. Attached to either side is a small plastic comb to secure the hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38071/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat in cut out triangular shape of white leather with white glass beaded edges on leather strips. Bow of same on center front top. Bow at center back of white glass beads. Navy veil. Two small combs, one attached on each side. Designer's label on inside band: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38077/
Hatlet
Embroidered hatlet. Formed of two hollow teardrop shapes overlaid on each other and edged with tiny gold beads. The shapes are covered in light green satin with is heavily embroidered with flowers and leaves in red, blue, greens, yellow, brown, purple/lavender. At back of hat is a sculptural bow of the same materials, edged in gold beads and with a quadruple strand of the beads at the "knot". Overall is a brown net veil with attached embroidered pieces matching the embroidery on the hatlet. The hatlet is lined in brown knit, with a plastic comb attached at each side to secure hat to wearer's head. Sewn into lining is maker's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38070/
Hatlet
Hatlet in calot style of navy straw. The hat is formed of a circle of navy blue straw over stiffened netting, with 4 protruding points at the front of the hat and two rounded protruding lobes at back. It is edged with three rows of navy blue plastic tubing. At the front of the hat are four pairs of large plastic pearlized buttons with clear crystal beads between affixed to the pointed sections with ties of navy blue plastic tubing. Over the hat is a navy blue veil to which is attached scattered groups of pieces of navy blue plastic tubing. Inner hatband of dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon, to which are attached two small plastic combs combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Sewn into lining is maker's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Philip Rosenblum through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38078/
Hatlet
Hatlet of orange beaded mesh. The openwork triangular hatlet is formed of stiffened strips of mesh covered in large and small orange beads, edged with double-rows of small orange beads. At each corner of the triangle are large similarly beaded and edged butterfly-shapes. Fine black veil. Underside of hatlet is of stiff mesh edged with narrow bands of velvet. Two plastic combs are attached to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside hat: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". A second sewn-in label has hand-written number "613". Gift of John C. Murphy through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38074/