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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Coat

Coat

Date: 1996
Creator: Oldham, Todd
Description: Coat of black wool. The hip-length coat is constructed of black felted wool with yellow, red, green, brown, blue, and orange bands of grosgrain ribbon woven in and out of the wool, forming a grid or trellis pattern over the entire garment. The coat has a notched collar and long sleeves, and has a center-front closure with three circular silver colored metal buttons. It is fully lined with black silk. Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd Oldham". From Oldham's Fall 1996 collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Derby

Derby

Date: 1960
Creator: Bailey, Jo
Description: Derby of hot pink leaves. Hat in the style of a derby, completely covered in various shades of hot pink leaf-shapes cut out of velvet, satin, and other fabrics. Cylindrical crown, up-turned brim. The hat is lined in hot pink fabric and has a pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into the inner hatband is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pajamas

Pajamas

Date: 1985
Creator: Oldham, Todd
Description: Men's pajamas of silk crepe. The two-piece set consists of a top and pants, both made of silk crepe printed with a design of large eyes decorated with teardrop-shaped colored "gems". The top has a rounded notched collar, long sleeves, and a patch pocket at left breast. The center front opening has four circular black buttons. The collar, center-front opening, and pocket are edged in black trim. Unlined. The top has a designer's label inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham" The full-length pants are wide-legged, and have a drawstring in the waistband. The pants have four labels sewn in: Designer's Label: "Todd / Oldham" Size: "S" Content: "100% / Silk" Care: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / In U.S.A."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1994
Creator: Oldham, Todd
Description: Dress of striped cotton broadcloth. The "house dress" style garment is street-length, in various patterns of woven striped cotton broadcloth. It has a center front opening that extends the length of the dress and secures with 7 gold-colored metal buttons set with colored rhinestones and on hidden hook-and-eye closure at waist. The wide collar is primarily in yellow with very narrow stripes of orange and blue. The bodice is of vertical stripes of reds, purples, pinks, etc. The skirt, which gathers into the natural waist, is in vertical stripes of blues with thin maroon and green accent stripes. The short sleeves are in stripes of blues, red, yellow and white, and have french cuffs secured with metal rhinestone-set cuff-links. The dress is unlined. The accompanying belt/sash is of the same fabric as the sleeves, and is finished at the ends as cuffs with sewn-on cuff-links matching the sleeves. Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham". Four labels sewn inside skirt at side seam: Content: "100% / Cotton" Care: "Dry Clean / Only" Size: "S" Origin: "Made / In U.S.A." From Oldham's Spring 1994 collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1997
Creator: Oldham, Todd
Description: Coat of printed satin. The floor-length coat has a rounded neckline and a center-front opening that extends the entire length of the garment and is secured with a single cloth-covered circular button at the throat. It has long sleeves and is fully lined in a salmon damask silk woven with a floral-foliate design. The entire garment is photo-printed with scenes of room interiors in various styles. Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd Oldham". From Oldham's Spring 1997 collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1935/1939
Creator: Florell, Walter, ca. 1911-1986
Description: Raised beret-style hat of creme felt. Stiffened body of hat has a sienna/orange-brown grosgrain ribbon bow at top of crown, with tails of bow extending to sides, along front to edge, and trailing off of the back of the hat. The hat is surmounted by a light-brown plume of ostrich feathers. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. There is a thin black elastic strap to go around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn to inside band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1954~
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Suit of brown and black wool tweed consisting of jacket, skirt, and vest. a) Jacket: princess line jacket of black and brown wool tweed with ivory slubs running through fabric; V-neckline with narrow notched collar and lapels; full-length sleeves are cut with the jacket body and have two triangular shaped gussets under the arm; sleeves are rolled up to form 1-1/2 cuffs; button front closure; buttons of black crocheted cord surrounding a round faceted black gem. b) Skirt of self fabric with self buttons down center-front; mid-length. c) Vest of self fabric with fabric covered buttons down center-front; fitted; approximately 1" wide shoulder straps.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1954~
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Light and charcoal gray two-piece daytime skirt suit with leather belt. Fitted jacket of light gray heavy weight wool, having a V-neckline with moderate shawl collar. 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with jacket body and supplemented by one triangular shaped gusset under the arm. Lapped centerfront opening with two large, round, gray plastic buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook&eye at waist seam. One pair of faux pocket flaps at bust level. Leather belt. Plain slim skirt of dark charcoal gray wool, just below knee-length.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1930
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of printed nylon with metallic embroidery. The fabric is a printed nylon with abstract floral designs in browns, yellows, and oranges on a cream ground, with areas of metallic embroidered leaf forms over the whole of the dress. The formal dress is full-length, with a slight train. Sleeveless, it has wide straps and a shallow rounded neckline, which deepens into a V in back. The natural or low waist has seaming below below the bust to create a band of horizontal ruching just above the waist. The skirt has wide, deep scalloping around the edges. On the back of the dress is a bow of the same material, set just above the lower back. From the hips around to the back are added panels of the same fabric forming tiers of ruffles, and two long panels are attached below the ruffles to hang down back. Closure along left side, alternating snaps and hooks-and-eyes. The dress is unlined, although the back ruffle panels are lined in a dark mahogany brown/red silk. Sewn in ribbon with hand-written notation: "72 20 499 29-327/979" (faded)
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ballgown

Ballgown

Date: 1985/1989
Creator: De la Renta, Oscar
Description: Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: unknown
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Cocktail dress of black silk gazar. The halter-style neckline of the dress ends in straps at center back of the fitted, dropped-waist bodice. The skirt is a semi-full, gathered, mid-thigh length. There is a boned inner bodice of black silk tulle with bust pads, grosgrain bust and waist stays fastening with hooks-and-eyes, an elaborate closure involving halter drape and inner and outer zippers down the left sideseam and five snaps that secure the halter panel and disguise the zipper. Fully lined in black chiffon. Label stitched on right side of inner bodice "Givenchy" and "Made In France". Underneath Givenchy label is sewn-in tape with hand-written note: "80 945"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunburst Dress

Sunburst Dress

Date: 1990
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Black "sunburst" evening dress with bustle. The fitted, full-length sheath is of black silk satin with black velvet "sunburst" motif repeated over the dress. The gown is strapless, with diagonally draped over-panels that meet at center front and form a large bow which tilts up to cover the left shoulder. There is a zipper closure along the left sideseam with hook-and-eye closure at neckline which is concealed by the bust panel, which is snapped to the dress and bow. The back waistline seam has a three-tiered ruffled bustle which has a snap at left side to accommodate the zipper. The skirt flares from knee to hemline. There is a boned black silk inner bodice with bust pads and bust and waist stays. The inner bodice has a zipper closure at left side, just inside the outer zipper. Designer's label inside garment, stitched over right side bone: "Givenchy / Made In / France". Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows the gown as displayed with a hat by Balenciaga (Accession #: 1981.022.026).
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: De la Renta, Oscar
Description: Evening gown of ivory satin and black lace. Garment is a full-length, A-line ivory satin dress with 3 wide horizontal bands of applied black lace on skirt and an attached black lace empire-style over-bodice. The bodice, consisting of overlapping lace scallops, has a deep square neckline and full-length sleeves. There are two covered snap closures on each wrist and a series of paired covered snap closures down center back. The dress has a center-back zipper with a single hook-and-eye fastener at the neckline. The ivory silk inner bodice has internal steel(?) boning for shaping, and fastens with a center-back zipper and internal grosgrain band waist stay. Inside the gown is a full-length, attached ivory satin slip with horsehair hem. The dress is piece-lined in ivory organza with a horsehair hem. Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "4677S".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Tunic

Tunic

Date: 1970/1980
Creator: Curiel
Description: Tunic of gold brocade. Knee-length A-line tunic with open rounded neckline and 3/4-length sleeves. The neckline, cuffs and hem are embellished with applied bands of gold, silver, topaz and rose-colored bugle beads, sequins and rhinestones. Center back zipper closure with four hook-and-eye closures at the neckline.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Jumpsuit

Jumpsuit

Date: 1966/1967
Creator: unknown
Description: Jumpsuit of pink, yellow, green and blue horizontal striped paper. The full-length rayon fiber remay paper pantsuit has olive green, pink, blue and tan stripes. Bodice is sleeveless, empire style, with with high rounded neckline and narrow spread collar, with stripes going horizontally. There is a center back zipper closure from the neck to hip-level. Pants are full-length, wide legged palazzo pants with vertical stripes. The pant legs are slit from the hem to mid-calf, and are unhemmed. The piece is lined in a white rayon fiber paper cloth. Retailer's label at inside left beneath the collar: "Change-In-Time / Boutique / Dallas, Texas".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Date: 1980
Creator: McFadden, Mary
Description: Ensemble of gold and silver Lurex knit consisting of blouse and skirt. Long sleeved blouse with round neckline and ties at wrists. Trimmed at lower hem with wide black ribbon which ties at side. Matching full-length skirt. On both pieces the knitting is done to simulate the effect of fine pleating. Each piece has designer label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1965/1969
Creator: Jourdan, Charles, 1883-1976
Description: Pair of black suede boots. Over-calf-height square-toed boots lace up front, with 3 rows of eyelets at bottom and 15 hooks above. Block heel is covered in black suede. Lined in off-white kid leather and with a rubber and leather sole. Impressed in rubber sole: "Made in France". Stamped on lining inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "8 1/2 2A 468069 LE"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1970/1983
Creator: Jourdan, Charles, 1883-1976
Description: Pair of deep wine red leather pumps. Shoes have a V-throat on vamp and are edged with thin bands of taupe leather around vamp and along outside panel ending in a triangular shape. 3 1/2" Continental set-back heel almost a stiletto, but wider and more oval in cross-section. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "Orient". Stamped inside each heel: "39 B / 63586 E". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1948/1950
Creator: United States Shoe Corporation
Description: Pair of black suede pumps. Shoes have peep-toe design and are embellished across the vamp with an asymmetrical design in black ribbon and side 1/2 bow on outer side. 2 1/2" high continental set-in heels covered in black suede. Leather soles, grey leather lining. Printed grey cloth lining with logo "Lastep". Stamped inside heel of both shoes: "D13258 7 1/2A AAA / 6/A". Stamped on sole of each shoe: "The United States Shoe Co. / Reg U.S. Pat. Off. / Red Cross / Shoe" Stamped inside right shoe: "Red Cross Shoes" and "This product has no connection whatever / with the American National Red Cross". Use of the "Red Cross Shoe" brand was suspended during World War II when the American Red Cross objected. It was re-instated in 1948 on the condition they company publicly disclaimed all connection with the ARC. These shoes have the disclaimer stamped in the right shoe.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Reticule

Reticule

Date: 1880/1916
Creator: unknown
Description: Reticule. Drawstring handbag/purse of black knit with openwork band along top through which drawstring is threaded. Running around center of bag are three horizontal bands of blue beads bordered by silver/gold lined beads. Lower part of the bag is completely covered by horizontal bands of silver/gold lined beads and blue beads. Bottom of bag with large sphere covered with blue beads from which hangs tassel of silver/gold lined bead loops. Unlined. Has been dated 1880-1890 or ca. 1916.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mini Dress

Mini Dress

Date: 1965/1969
Creator: Remas of Scottsdale
Description: Sheath-style mini dress of pink linen with all-over eyelash fringe. The linen-weave garment is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. It is printed with an elongated honey-comb pattern in shades of pink and white with woven-in fringe throughout. At each shoulder is three circular pink cloth covered buttons. The honeycomb pattern starts out light pink, and darkens towards the hem of the dress. Lower hem is dagged, following the line of the pattern. Lined at hem and upper part in pink. Label in center back inside: "Remas / of Scottsdale" 96 cm.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1960/1968
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design