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 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Cap

Cap

Date: [1940..1949]
Creator: unknown
Description: Cap of dark gray wool. The cap is styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. Running width-wise across crown is a band of the same fabric with parallel lines of top-stitching in white thread. Lined in a dark gray fabric. No labels in hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1944
Creator: Fredericks, John
Description: Picture style hat of black felt. Asymmetrical brim is wider on sides. Fringe of self as trim encircles crown and drapes across brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "John Fredericks Inc. / New York" Tag at left of designer's label: "Made in America"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1946
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Brown gabardine suit. a) Suit jacket of brown gaberdine. Long sleeves. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons and bound buttonholes. Two faux flap pockets at yoke with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. Two lower hacking pockets with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. V-shaped yoke on back. Lined in rust colored silk. No designer's label. Retailer's label on inside center back neckline: "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia" b)Skirt of brown gaberdine. A-lined shape with left side zipper. Kick pleat at center front seam. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Sonnenfeld's
Description: Picture hat of off-white felt. The low, domed crown is open at top along a split from front to back, and is encircled and almost covered by wide bands of red, white, and blue horizontally striped grosgrain ribbon, with crossing and trailing ends at back. The wide brim curves downwards. Hat is unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Sonnenfeld's / St. Louis"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: [1947..1948]
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe. a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille. Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material" (b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Skirt suit of black English gabardine. a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk. Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus" b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Beret

Beret

Date: 1948
Creator: Kangol
Description: Beret of off-white wool. Lined in striped green satin. Stamped in gold on inside crown: " Anglobasque / de Luxe / Made in / Cumberland - England / 100% Pure Wool"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Beret

Beret

Date: 1948
Creator: Kangol
Description: Beret of black wool felt. Lined in violet sating with leather inner headband. Stamped in gold on inside crown: "Kangol / de Luxe / An Anglobasque Product / Made in Cumberland England / 100% Pure Wool"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1948
Creator: Irene of New York
Description: Calotte style hat of deep rose colored velvet. Double upturned brim with one velvet flower on left front. One large hatpin with head of large and small pearls separated by a band of rhinestones. Coordinating front veil. Lined in gold metallic fabric with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Label on inside crown: "Irene / of New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Beret

Beret

Date: 1948
Creator: unknown
Description: Beret of ivory wool felt with gold crown amulet embellished with rhinestones in front. Red grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Derby Hat

Derby Hat

Date: 1948
Creator: Louise Inc.
Description: Hat in derby style of navy felt. Edge of crown trimmed in wide bands of navy, gray and red yarn with very narrow gold thread knots tied to tasseled ends of yarn bands. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker/retailer's label: "A / Neiman / Marcus / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1947/1954
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Black, rust and brown herringbone wool suit. a) Coat of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons with cut tops. Long, set-in sleeves. Brown fur collar. Yoked shoulders and box pleats at left and right sides and two pleats down the back. Lined in taupe silk satin. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Skirt of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Below knee length; A-line. Left side zipper with 2 hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in rust colored silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1943~
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Three-piece suit consisting of green wool jacket, skirt and red striped jersey blouse. A) Jacket of green twill wool. Single breasted with notched collar in red twill wool on exterior of collar extending down interior of front opening. Three self covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Mock flap pockets at sides trimmed with matching self covered buttons and red undersides. Long, set in sleeves with split opening at cuff closed with single, self covered button and bound buttonhole and lined on underside in red. Lined in red silk crepe. Designer's label on inside right: "Traina-Norell / New York" B) Skirt in green twill wool. A line; below knee length. White grosgrain ribbon waistband. Left side zipper. Unlined. C) Blouse in green and red striped jersey. Long sleeves. Narrow, rounded collar banded in matching fabric. Left side opening at neckline with 5 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes on 1-inch band of self. Fitted. Partially lined at back neckline in off-yellow organdy.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1945
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Skirt-suit of navy blue wool. A) Jcket. Cropped, fitted jacket with v-neckline and center-front opening with 5 self-covered circular buttons with bound buttonholes and two hidden snaps. Long sleeves, each with two self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, and two hidden snaps. Lined in navy blue silk, and with internal shoulder pads. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Skirt. Street-length flared skirt of 10 gores, with narrow waistband, left side zipper with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. Lined in navy blue silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of dark beige and cream felt. Designed as a modified Breton hat, the low, domed crown of dark beige felt is encircled by a cream velvet tube through which are strung four large dark beige braided flower-head forms. The circular brim is turned up, forming a "wall" around the crown. The brim is overlaid with a narrow band of black lace net veiling, with scattered "fuzzies" on some of the intersections. The underside of the brim is lined in cream velvet. The crown is unlined, and there is a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th St."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of navy felt. The low, domed crown is encircled at the base by a "rope" of cream velvet which forms a twisting form at front left. The rope has scattered white bugle beads throughout. The small brim is curved downwards, and is wider at front and sides than at back. The underside of the brim is lined in cream velvet, and the crown is unlined. The hat has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dinner Dress

Dinner Dress

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime coat of camel brown/tan wool. Street-length or longer, with rounded shawl collar. Double breasted with 6 large circular black silk faille-covered buttons in two vertical rows of 3 each; bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two small circular black plastic buttons inside. Two slit. Double welt pockets at sides. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs showing black silk faille lining. The coat is lined in black silk, with wide bands of black silk faille at cuffs, collar, and sides of opening. Combined retailer's and designer's label at inside back neck: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Date: 1946
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Ensemble of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. A) Dress of blue heathered wool herringbone knit with bodice of black jersey knit. Short sleeves. 1 1/2" wide mandarin collar. Center back zipper closure with self-covered button and buttonhole on collar at back. Skirt is street length with slight A-line. Unlined skirt. No labels in dress. B) Fitted jacket of of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. Long sleeves with cuffs of black Persian lamb. V-neckline trimmed in black Persian lamb. Left side closure with two circular black metal buttons at shoulder and four matching button on left side seam. Lined in black silk crepe. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline of jacket: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Brown print silk dress with belt and umbrella. A) Full-length silk dress printed with brown/white/black over-all pattern of large leaves or pinecones on stems. Wide, shallow neckline. Side zipper. Sleeveless, with sleeves edged with cut-out leaf shapes from the print. Hem with same treatment. A-line skirt. Unlined. Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same fabric, backed in cream leather, with rectangular, fabric-covered buckle. C) Umbrella. Not pictured.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Skirt suit of chocolate wool with velvet cuffs. A) Fitted jacket of chocolate wool in woven, checked pattern. Single breasted with 5 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar of brown velvet with self fabric lapels. Long sleeved with turn-up cuff of brown velvet and two small self covered buttons and bound buttonholes on each sleeve. Lined in brown taffeta. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell B) Skirt of chocolate wool in woven, checked pattern. Wide, flared A-line with 10 panel construction. 1 1/2" waistband with center back lapped zipper and hook & eye closure at waistband. Lined in brown taffeta.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined. Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of dark pink/mauve velvet. The low, domed crown is covered with large overlapping "petal" shapes of velvet arranged like scales, and has a large velvet rose/flower form at front of the same velvet petals. Lined in black fabric, and with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Sanger Bros / Dallas Texas"; and origin/size label: "New York / Creation / 22"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940~
Creator: Mye, Edna
Description: Hat of natural straw. Low domed crown and very wide brim. Tight weave with decorative open weave about 1.5 inches from brim. Around crown is a heavy gold braided ribbon set with spaced rhinestones and large rhinestone where ribbon diverts from crown. Ends of ribbon extend in back to hang off of brim. Off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside crown. Label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Edna Mye / Dallas". Marked inside crown of hat: "by Hawes"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design