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Texas Fashion Collection
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of red velvet. Floor length with wide, rounded neckline with deep scoop in back and 3/4 raglan sleeves. 1/2" and 1/4" round pearl beads sewn 2" apart over entire dress. Full-length, natural waist A-line skirt with slight train. Zipper closure at center back. Unlined with bodice and sleeved interfaced in maroon silk chiffon.
Designer's label at inside right side seam under arm: "EISA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30193/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of black rayon velvet; bustle trimmed with ermine tails; column shaped; built-in undergarment with boning; bustle lined in buckram.
In box with dress: box with spare tails from Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30144/
- Evening Cape
Evening cape of pale pink silk gazar; oversized, rectangular shaped with shoulder corners turned-in forming diagonal armholes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30202/
- Evening Sandals
Pair of heeled sandals. Uppers made of black peau du soi silk crepe over leather. Edged in gold kid leather. Vamp formed of three bands, each with applied central black silk circular piece with attached gilt metal neoclassical head. Shoes buckle at side with oval gilt metal buckles set with rhinestones. 2 5/8" Boulevard-style heel.
For late afternoon or evening wear.
Inscribed in each shoe: "Sp14630 / 58545"
Labels: In right shoe: "DELMAN / New York - Chicago - London - Paris"; In left shoe: "BERGDORF / GOODMAN". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30027/
- Skirt Suit
Suit of black ribbed fabric.
(a) jacket with notched collar of sateen; center front welted button closure; pink buttons with gold snake; armhole princess seams; double darts from pocket to bust point; faux single welt pockets with gathers; long sleeves with curved half cuffs in pink sateen with button closure; armhole princess seams on back; pink lining; pleat at center back.
(b) matching knee-length skirt; waistband; 1 front waist dart; 1 front princess seam; center back closure; waistline darts; black lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30318/
- Evening Ensemble
A) Bustier bodice of white lace. Cropped. Black organza lower "skirt" to bodice. Wide band of lace at top, attached in four places (perhaps for arms or shoulders). Center back zipper closure.
Designer's label: "Oscar de la Renta" and "Made in USA" tag; Size label: "6"
B) Skirt of ruffled black net. Full length. Inner full organza skirt with wide hem band of horsehair stiffener. Outer full skirt of black net with 21 (?) layers of ruffled black dotted net.
C) Belt of black leather, covered in black fabric. Black fabric covered square buckle.
Stamped on reverse: "4 Oscar de la Renta 717" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30267/
- Men's Pants
Man's olive green cotton corduroy pants with no waistband or pockets. Metal hook front closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30168/
- Men's Shirt
Men's button front bright pink. orange. blue and green multi-colored ocean print Irish cotton shirt. Wide dog's-ear collar. Long sleeved. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30167/
- Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed:
a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar.
b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30050/
Handbag. Rectangular silver art deco openwork frame set with tiny marcasites and circular cabochon black stones (onyx?). Bag is of black silk velvet. Handle of black silk velvet with two silver rings set with marcasites. Lined with dusty pink ribbed silk, and containing a small rectangular mirror.
Marked on frame: "MD" in a square; Diamond shaped mark with an M over a K; and an illegible shield-shaped punch. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30047/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure.
The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening.
The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk.
There are no labels in the garment.
Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed.
From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30014/
Sunbonnet of black silk taffeta. The brim of the hat has 6 shirred hoops with deep padding in between, and a ruffled edge of the same fabric. At center back of neck, on the tail of the hat, is a flat bow of black silk taffeta, and the ties are of black silk taffeta ribbon. The crown is lined with brown glazed cotton fabric.
The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30079/
- Skirt Suit
Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels.
There are three labels in the coat:
Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co."
Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas"
Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30048/
( At left) Raincoat of black vinyl. The modified A-line coat is of short length, extending to just at or below the knee, and has long sleeves. Center-front opening is secured with 3 silver/chrome clip closures, one at the rounded neckline and two at waist. There is one patch pocket at the right hip. The coat is fully lined in synthetic with vertical stripes of pink, green, blue, violet, and red on a black ground.
Manufacturer's label inside at center back just below neckline: "La Flaque / de Paris". At right inside side-seam is a Union Label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30086/
- Cartwheel Hat
Natural straw cartwheel or picture hat. The wide, slightly floppy, brim slopes up to the low circular domed crown. Around the crown is a black silk scarf attached in three places with black bows, with trailing section off of the back of the brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30000/
Monastic Dress of red and black floral printed cotton. The dress is street-length, with natural shoulders, long sleeves and a high scoop neckline. At the waist is a black leather belt which passes through the garment at the sides, allowing the sides of the dress to be loose and flowing. The belt has a snap closure, and is designed to look "tied" at front.
Also referred to as a Trapeze dress.
Dress has two labels sewn inside at back of collar. Designer's label: "Claire McCardell Clothes / by Townley" and Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Belt has stamped in white on the back: "10 Claire McCardell 608"
From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30030/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble. The skirt is of heavy gold felt covered with black floral lace, which has been heavily "beaded" with sequins. Side zipper closure, and two side-seam pockets. Retailer's label inside skirt on side seam: "Neiman-Marcus". With black velvet belt, which is marked on reverse: "16 Charming Belts. 6406", "This / 'Bac-A-Belt' backing / guaranted by / Good Housekeeping" / wash or clean / as garment". The accompanying blouse is of black silk jersey with half length sleeves and gathered detail at scoop neckline. Center back zipper closure that extends full length of the garment. Inner waistband of grosgrain ribbon with hook and eye closure.
No labels in blouse. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30004/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of green leather jacket and green and black striped knit dress with green leather belt. The sheath-style street-length dress is of wool jersey with a knitted pattern of horizontal green and black stripes. It has very short sleeves and a wide boat neckline, and is unlined. The dress has an accompanying green leather belt that ends in fringe. The street-length coat is of matching green leather, with long sleeves and tuxedo collar that extends to lower hem. The center-front opening has no closures, and there is a welt pocket at each side seam. The coat is lined in the same fabric the dress is made from, and faces the tuxedo collar and opening.
There are no designer labels in the garments, and the coat has retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30009/
- Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps.
Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L"
The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851"
From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30084/
- Evening Gown
Evening dress of off-white / beige silk. Mid-length chemise-style, with 1" standing collar and long sleeves. Heavily beaded floral patterns at cuffs of sleeves and along a band 3 1/2" up from hem. Beadwork includes pearls, clear bugle beads, rhinestones, gold sequins, and small clear beads. Zipper closure along center back. Dress is lined in white silk crepe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30212/
- Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble consisting of a coat and dress. The mid-length coat is of knit with a printed pattern of blue geometric shapes on a bright red ground, and has long sleeves and moderate collar with rounded points. Center-front opening with 4 square dark blue plastic buttons. Across back of coat is an attached belt of the same fabric, with buttons at each side, but does not extend around to the front. Fully lined in dark blue fabric. The mid-length dress is of the same fabric, and has short sleeves, a rounded neckline, and flares slightly to hem. The dress has a center-back zipper closure and is lined in the same fabric as the coat.
Coat has a single retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" inside back at collar.
Dress has slightly smaller version of same label, sewn inside at left of zipper near neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30209/
Evening dress of orange/tangerine silk chiffon with cut velvet fish scale design in silvery white partly outlined with silver bugle beads. Sleeveless, with round scoop neck, and armholes cut to waist. Straight tubular shape with drop waist, with a swag of pleated self-fabric at left hip, trimmed with five rhinestone medallions. 1" fur trim at hem.
Dress has been shortened and fur may have been added at that time. Probably originally 1918-20's style. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30088/
Purse. Ornate bell-shaped silver (plated?) frame with openwork latticework set with red and blue cabochons and with silver (plated?) chain. Body of purse is of crocheted gray with vertical stripes of horizontal rows of faceted blue beads. Bottom of bag with fringe formed of loops of matching beading. Lined in gray satin with roses and vine trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30089/
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations.
Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio".
Skirt: No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30093/
- Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30073/
Pair of green suede pumps. Vamp of shoe with 5 bands of green satin ribbon running across the vamp and throat. The throat has V-cut sections on either side, with crossing bands of suede where the V intersects the ribbon. Lined in cream/grey kid leather. 2 1/2" high modified continental heels, covered in green suede.
Stamped inside right shoe: " 'Charmant' / Fashions / A. Harris & Co. Dallas". Noted inside both shoes: "38 - 0 14465" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30091/
- Dinner Gown
Dinner gown of red velvet. The full-length dress is of deep red velvet, embroidered in black to form an all-over pattern of "fish scales". Neckline is rounded, higher in front than back, and has full-length sleeves with a modified leg-of-mutton effect at the shoulders and zipper closures at wrists. The bodice is seamed, and has a natural waistline. The neckline, waistline, and upper part of sleeves/shoulders are edged in black cording/braid. Skirt is slightly gathered into the waistline braid. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye closure at neck. Small panel lining front of bodice at bust, the rest of the gown unlined.
No label sewn in garment, but retains original paper tag: obverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original"; reverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original / Fibre Content / 100% Wool / Style 121 / Size [blank] / Mat. [blank] / Account No. [blank]".
This gown is one of the "Dance Hall Girl" dresses from Ms. Maxwell's Southwest American Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30090/
- High-Heeled Shoes
One pair of woman's high-heeled shoes with split t-strap, forming an inverted "V" from vamp to strap. The shoes are covered in a metallic copper/bronze silk textured weave and edged in gold metallic finished leather. The Boulevard set-under heels are lacquered with a metallic gold finish and set with rhinestones.
One shoe with label inside: "Wise Shoe / For Every Occasion"
Both shoes with hand-marked notations: "6 1/2 aa / D30014 / 11-564"
Some rhinestones on the heels have been replaced at some point in the past with other rhinestones that do not quite match the original stones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30053/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of embroidered silk organza with pink silk acetate lining and belt; square neckline; sleeveless with rhinestone embellished velvet straps attached by rhinestone snaps in front and back; velvet trim; three tiers with pink floral embroidery; pink velvet belt embellished with rhinestones and a velvet flower digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30052/
Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis"
Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30076/
- D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede.
Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear"
The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30078/
- Skirt Suit
Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30019/
- Beachwear Ensemble - Bikini and Coverup
Beach ensemble consisting of bikini and coverup.
The bikini top and bottom are of jersey printed with a modern art design of greens, pink and red stripes. Top has ties that go up and behind neck, and bands that reach around to back and secure with metal clasp. At front, between the cups along top edge is a non-functional tie made of piping made from the jersey material. Bikini bottom is low-cut. The coverup is of light chiffon, possibly silk, with swirling stripes in the same pattern as bikini. It is sleeveless, has a boat neckline, and rounded hemline.
The pieces of the ensemble have various tags:
In bikini top: "12"
In bikini bottom: "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia"; Made in Italy / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus"; "Made in Italy"; "12"; Helanca / Filanca / Marche Int. Dep."
Stamped near hem of coverup: "Enzo Mari Per / Fio / Rio"; Sewn in tags: "Fio / Rio"; "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia".
Pattern designed by Enzo Mari (b. Novara, Italy, 1932).
From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30036/
Dress of off-white silk. Ankle-length dress with V neckline at front and back with piped edge and with long, lightly puffed sleeves supported by small pads. Hem and sleeves with fine rolled hems. At front is a wide, dropped, cross-over band at waist which repeats at back, the back forming a yoke into which the skirt gathers. Lapped zipper closure on left side. The entire garment has pleating inspired by the designs of Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo,(May 11, 1871–May 3, 1949)
Acquired by the donor at the Fort Worth, Texas, branch of Neiman Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30311/
Coat of black wool and chinchilla fur. The full-length black wool coat is tailored to fit at waist and flares out at skirt. Long sleeves, and center front opening with 8 circular buttons covered with same black cloth, and 3 hook-and-loops spaced along the opening. The coat has a Peter Pan collar of brown and taupe striped fur identified as chinchilla. From the hips down to the hem is trimmed with matching fur, arranged so the stripes run horizontally around the skirt of the coat. The coat is fully lined in black cloth.
Single retailer's label at inside back of collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30101/
Pair of white leather pumps. Shoes have rounded open toes and sections of clear vinyl or plastic at vamp on either side. Accented with rectangular buckles at vamps painted white and set with large and small rhinestones. Back straps fasten with rectangular white-painted metal buckles. 3" spike heel covered in white leather.
Written in each shoe: "6 1/2 B" on vamp; "6 1/2 B 6333 / 7214-6RF" on back strap. Stamped on lining of left shoe: "M. Wolf / New York". Stamped on lining of right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30213/
- Evening Shoes
Pair of red satin evening shoes. The deep red shoes have pointed toes and 3 1/2" stiletto heels which are lacquered red with tiny white dots and embellished all-over with rhinestones.
Marked on sole: "6 / 1/2 / B / 05" and "Made in Italy".
Label inside right shoe: "Vaccari / Italy Bologna".
Stamped inside left shoe: "Made in Italy for / Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30215/
Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. The dress is accompanied by a long rectangular pink chiffon scarf.
There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". No labels on scarf. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30225/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Pants
Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants.
The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes.
The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style.
Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France".
The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, based on the particular way that the shibori tye-dying technique has been used on the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30096/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt and Blouse
Suit in hot pink nubbly wool knit. The ensemble consists of three pieces: a jacket, matching skirt, and black silk shell.
The jacket is hip-length, with a shawl collar which has an attached black silk tie. The center front closure has 6 circular brass buttons with central embossed lion's heads and black outer edges. There are four faux flap pockets at front, two on each side of opening, each with button matching those of the closure. The long sleeves have simulated closure, with a line of three buttons matching others on each sleeve. The pocket flaps, cuffs, collar, center front, and hem are all edged in black. Designer's label sewn inside jacket at collar: "Adolfo / New York", with retailer's label sewn in just below: "Neiman-Marcus". The matching skirt is below-knee length, of the same pink wool knit, with pleating beginning 7" below waistband and extending to hem. Skirt has designer's label sewn inside at waistband as jacket. The accompanying black silk blouse is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Single black silk -covered button closure at back of neck. Shell has designer's label sewn inside at left of closure as jacket. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30285/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of heavily beaded beige silk satin. The bodice of the full-length gown has an empire waist, a wide scoop neckline, and is sleeveless. It has princess seaming, and internal boning at center front of the neckline. The skirt has fullness from the widening of the panels. The skirt and lower part of the bodice are beaded with floral/foliate forms in pinks, browns, yellows, clear and iridescent beads. The upper part of the bodice, in a deep band around neckline, back, and straps, is totally covered in iridescent sequins, beaded flower heads in bronze/brown and clear beads. The bodice is lined and has internal structures to help support and give form to the gown. The skirt is lined with stiff netting, and has an internal attached net crinoline. The gown has a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30227/
- Body Suit With Tunic
Ensemble consisting of two pieces. Base garment is a light green knitted silk jersey bodysuit with over-length sleeves and legs. Zipper closure from throat to lower back at center back, with one hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Over the bodysuit is a tunic/tabard formed of two long rectangular panels of black silk with white printed polka dots all over. There are thin "straps" simulated at shoulders where panels meet, and a slightly rounded neckline. The panels are sewn at left side for 17 cm. below arm and open the rest of the length. On right side are three snaps and one hook-and-eye closure. The left shoulder is sewn shut, while the right side opens with hook-and-eye closure. The panels are lined in shocking pink silk.
Label in bodysuit: At inside left back, just beside zipper: "Rudi Gernreich".
Labels in tunic/tabard: At back inside, just below neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"; At front inside, just below neckline: "Rudi Gernreich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30029/
Dinner dress of printed silk organza. The dress is composed of two parts. The caftan-like outer layer of the dress consists of a square silk organza cocoon printed in psychedelic motifs in purples, blues, pinks and chartreuse. It has a high rounded neckline with center back opening secured with six loops and covered buttons. There are applied flat cuffs at the wrist openings and waist-level slits at center front to accommodate the sash. There is a center front slit from hem to knee-level.
The inner dress is a matching, full-length, sleeveless sheath in printed silk of the same design. It has a high rounded neckline with center back zipper closure from neck to hip with a single hook-and-eye closure at the neckline. The outer caftan and inner sheath are joined at the neckline. There is a printed silk organza sash of the same fabric that meets at center front and secures with two hook-and-eye closures and has self ties to disguise closure. The sash is swing tacked at the back. There is a center front slit from the hem to knee-level. Lime green silk panels are inset at sideseams, running from the underarm to the hem, and may be later additions to the garment. The dress is fully lined in green silk crepe.
Designer's label located inside left center back, beside the zipper: Pierre Cardin / Paris New York". Retailer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Maisonette / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30265/
- Hopsacking Pants
Men's pants of embroidered "hopsacking". The tailored trousers are made in the style of jeans, but of an ochre/golden brown cotton hopsacking material. Full-length, the legs flare slightly to hems. Jeans-style pockets, two welt pockets on front and two patch pockets on back. Waistband has beltloops spaced throughout. Zipper fly at front with three buttons to secure waistband. The pants have an all-over embroidery in vertical and horizontal bands of stylized leaves, triangles, and other shapes in gold, white, green, yellow, and magenta.
There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30239/
Waist-length black simulated alligator jacket. The cropped shell is constructed of panels of leather blind-stamped to simulate alligator. Panels are edged with silver-colored circular metal grommeted eyelets, and are joined with knitted black cording. The high, rounded spread collar is of ribbed black knit. Zipper closure from throat to hem at center front. The jacket is unlined, and has two interior, black canvas, envelope pockets with snap closures.
Label is located inside at center back, below the collar. "Paco Rabanne / Paris Made in France".
Jacket was donated as part of an ensemble which also included black wool and cashmere knit sweater by Dior, and black hip-hugger trousers by Remy. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30238/
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of:
A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk.
Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France".
Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30045/
Handbag. Arched frame of silver (plated?), lightly chased and engraved. Openwork areas on sides of frame allow rings from suspension chain to slide up and down acting as "locks". Mesh bag with enameled design of flowers. Inside bag are makers tag marked: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis Co. / Bags / Reg. U.S. & Can." and brand tag marked "El Sah". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30077/
Purse / Handbag for afternoon use. Rectangular plain polished gunmetal / steel frame with ball/snap closure and matching chain of elongated links. Body of purse formed of gunmetal / steel mesh, with linked chain latticework along bottom edge, terminating in small spheres. Purse of gunmetal mesh, suitable for afternoon use.
Inside of frame is engraved "Bessie H. Brown" and "Dallas Texas 4205 Swiss Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30074/
Sunbonnet of brown linen. Made of a plain weave with both white and brown threads, the hat has pasteboard staves within the brim, a crenelated buttoning crown and long tail. The crown and tail are separate pieces, sewn together at neck seam, with the tail fastening to the sides of the brim by 3 off-white buttons on each side. The tail is semi-circular in shape, and the narrow chin ties are hemmed by hand.
Poke-style bonnets are generally those that have brims stiffened either through quilting or plain starched fabric. Sunbonnets that rely on staves for brim support are not considered poke-style sunbonnets.
The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30075/
Sunbonnet of white cotton broadcloth. The hat has a square-shaped brim with an outer layer of off-white weave material with a plain-weave backing, and crocheted trim. The brim is thin and does not appear to contain much stiffening material or starch. The crenelated crown fastens to brim by a series of 9 buttons on top and 2 buttons on each side. The crown is trimmed with the same crocheted trim as is the brim. The crown and tail are of a made of a single length of fabric.
The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30065/