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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1960/1965
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Pillbox hat. The short, flat-topped cylindrical crown of tan netting is completely covered with rows of artificial magenta pink silk flowers, which have yellow thread and green plush centers. Inside the lower edge of the crown is a dark green grosgrain ribbon band which has two sections of elastic cord sewn along the sides to form loops to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Label sewn into inner ribbon band: "Eisa" Donor stated that this hat was "...to wear with a black day outfit."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1964
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Calotte of beaded black satin. Evening hat in the form of a calotte (also spelled "calot"). The low, domed crown is made of segments of black satin over a core of woven straw. The surface is embellished with black plastic sequins and beads of various sizes. At top of crown is small squashed spheroid finial covered with a pattern of cylindrical and circular faceted black plastic beads. Inside lower edge of crown is black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn behind band are three elastic loops to help secure hat to head of wearer. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: unknown
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Dress of red satin and black velvet. The above-the-knee length dress has a fitted princess-line bodice with dropped waist and V-neckline. The long sleeves have moderate puff at shoulders, and wrist closure with four red satin covered buttons on each wrist. The turned-back cuffs are of black velvet, as is the wired, rolled collar. The full skirt gathers at the waistline. There is a center-back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at neckline, and the collar detaches to accommodate the opening. The dress is fully lined in red chiffon, with bust pads and hip stay band which fastens at center back with hook-and-eye. Designer's label is sewn inside at right side near armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France". Underneath the designer's label is sewn a second label with hand-written notation "80535".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1980?
Creator: Rossi, Pilar
Description: Full-length evening dress of copper and olive polyester. Bodice has two sections of material which form a v-neckline in front and which are joined in back of neck by 3 cloth covered buttons, separating and falling almost all of the way down the back of the dress. Empire waistband,3 ½” wide, is gathered and pleated and wraps around to the back. Full-length wrap-style skirt. Center back zipper closure. The bodice is lined in orange polyester.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 2000?
Creator: de la Renta, Oscar
Description: Tunic-style evening dress of royal blue hammered silk. Full-length, narrowing to hem and with a slit up the side. Dress has a round neckline with hook-and-eye closure at back and has wide, straight, bracelet-length sleeves. Hand-written notation on the designer label: "8634 #2"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1969/1970
Creator: DHJ Industries
Description: Maxi paper bridesmaid dress of Reemay spun polyester "paper". The long dress is printed with a pattern of impressionistic flowers in greens, pink, blues and purples on a yellow ground. It has a high, rounded neckline with no collar, and opens with a zipper at center back from collar to just above waist. The long, fitted sleeves have a thin band at cuff which extends to be tied into a bow. Empire waistline, from which extend box pleats. The dress appears to have a full, floor-length skirt, but the skirt is actually divided, forming pant legs. No designer labels in garment, but original tag is preserved with it: Obverse: "'Wear-a-while'* / Fashions / with / Reemay [trademark symbol] / Du Pont's Fabulous / New 100% Spun Bonded Polyester / DuPont Reemay brings an entirely new quality to 'conven- / ience fashions'. It has an unusual surface appearance, it / is strong and it is colorfast. Garments of Reemay may be / washed a few times and need no ironing if you use / normal wash-and-wear procedures / DHJ Industries Inc. / [trademark symbol] Registered Du Pont Trademark / * Trademark of / DHJ Industries, Inc." Reverse: "Du Pont / Reemay ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Bailey, Jo
Description: Pillbox hat of striped fabric. The low-crowned cylindrical hat is covered in a gray fabric having red, green, black, white, and gold stripes reminiscent of a man's tie. Around the crown the fabric is pleated and draped, giving the effect of a low turban. Lined in a pink satin, with dusty rose pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt

Skirt

Date: 1996
Creator: Oldham, Todd
Description: Skirt of open weave silk ribbons. The floor-length skirt is created of loosely woven silk ribbons of yellow, red, blue, green, pink, orange, brown, white, and black, forming a lattice or trellis. It gathers into the orange waistband, which has a single hook-and-eye closure, and is unlined. No labels in garment. Designed Fall 1996. Gift of the Todd Oldham Archives. Bodice in image is a modern wrap placed on form for display purposes.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1996
Creator: Oldham, Todd
Description: Dress of photo-printed knit. The sheath-style dress is of a polyester/lycra blend sueded knit. Full-length, the dress has a "crew neck" rounded neckline with slight standing collar and short cap sleeves. The dress widens at the hips and tapers to the hem, and has a back vent slit at center back from hem up 47.5cm. The entire garment is photo-printed with images of "travel scenes" of the west - roads, lakes, cacti, cows on farms, rock formations, etc. Designer's label inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham" Three tags inside near hem: Size: "M" Care: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / In U.S.A." Content: "85% Polyester / 15% Lycra". From Oldham's Spring 1996 collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1996
Creator: Oldham, Todd
Description: Coat of black wool. The hip-length coat is constructed of black felted wool with yellow, red, green, brown, blue, and orange bands of grosgrain ribbon woven in and out of the wool, forming a grid or trellis pattern over the entire garment. The coat has a notched collar and long sleeves, and has a center-front closure with three circular silver colored metal buttons. It is fully lined with black silk. Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd Oldham". From Oldham's Fall 1996 collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Derby

Derby

Date: 1960
Creator: Bailey, Jo
Description: Derby of hot pink leaves. Hat in the style of a derby, completely covered in various shades of hot pink leaf-shapes cut out of velvet, satin, and other fabrics. Cylindrical crown, up-turned brim. The hat is lined in hot pink fabric and has a pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into the inner hatband is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pajamas

Pajamas

Date: 1985
Creator: Oldham, Todd
Description: Men's pajamas of silk crepe. The two-piece set consists of a top and pants, both made of silk crepe printed with a design of large eyes decorated with teardrop-shaped colored "gems". The top has a rounded notched collar, long sleeves, and a patch pocket at left breast. The center front opening has four circular black buttons. The collar, center-front opening, and pocket are edged in black trim. Unlined. The top has a designer's label inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham" The full-length pants are wide-legged, and have a drawstring in the waistband. The pants have four labels sewn in: Designer's Label: "Todd / Oldham" Size: "S" Content: "100% / Silk" Care: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / In U.S.A."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1994
Creator: Oldham, Todd
Description: Dress of striped cotton broadcloth. The "house dress" style garment is street-length, in various patterns of woven striped cotton broadcloth. It has a center front opening that extends the length of the dress and secures with 7 gold-colored metal buttons set with colored rhinestones and on hidden hook-and-eye closure at waist. The wide collar is primarily in yellow with very narrow stripes of orange and blue. The bodice is of vertical stripes of reds, purples, pinks, etc. The skirt, which gathers into the natural waist, is in vertical stripes of blues with thin maroon and green accent stripes. The short sleeves are in stripes of blues, red, yellow and white, and have french cuffs secured with metal rhinestone-set cuff-links. The dress is unlined. The accompanying belt/sash is of the same fabric as the sleeves, and is finished at the ends as cuffs with sewn-on cuff-links matching the sleeves. Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham". Four labels sewn inside skirt at side seam: Content: "100% / Cotton" Care: "Dry Clean / Only" Size: "S" Origin: "Made / In U.S.A." From Oldham's Spring 1994 collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1997
Creator: Oldham, Todd
Description: Coat of printed satin. The floor-length coat has a rounded neckline and a center-front opening that extends the entire length of the garment and is secured with a single cloth-covered circular button at the throat. It has long sleeves and is fully lined in a salmon damask silk woven with a floral-foliate design. The entire garment is photo-printed with scenes of room interiors in various styles. Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd Oldham". From Oldham's Spring 1997 collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1935/1939
Creator: Florell, Walter, ca. 1911-1986
Description: Raised beret-style hat of creme felt. Stiffened body of hat has a sienna/orange-brown grosgrain ribbon bow at top of crown, with tails of bow extending to sides, along front to edge, and trailing off of the back of the hat. The hat is surmounted by a light-brown plume of ostrich feathers. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. There is a thin black elastic strap to go around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn to inside band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1954~
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Suit of brown and black wool tweed consisting of jacket, skirt, and vest. a) Jacket: princess line jacket of black and brown wool tweed with ivory slubs running through fabric; V-neckline with narrow notched collar and lapels; full-length sleeves are cut with the jacket body and have two triangular shaped gussets under the arm; sleeves are rolled up to form 1-1/2 cuffs; button front closure; buttons of black crocheted cord surrounding a round faceted black gem. b) Skirt of self fabric with self buttons down center-front; mid-length. c) Vest of self fabric with fabric covered buttons down center-front; fitted; approximately 1" wide shoulder straps.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1954~
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Light and charcoal gray two-piece daytime skirt suit with leather belt. Fitted jacket of light gray heavy weight wool, having a V-neckline with moderate shawl collar. 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with jacket body and supplemented by one triangular shaped gusset under the arm. Lapped centerfront opening with two large, round, gray plastic buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook&eye at waist seam. One pair of faux pocket flaps at bust level. Leather belt. Plain slim skirt of dark charcoal gray wool, just below knee-length.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1930
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of printed nylon with metallic embroidery. The fabric is a printed nylon with abstract floral designs in browns, yellows, and oranges on a cream ground, with areas of metallic embroidered leaf forms over the whole of the dress. The formal dress is full-length, with a slight train. Sleeveless, it has wide straps and a shallow rounded neckline, which deepens into a V in back. The natural or low waist has seaming below below the bust to create a band of horizontal ruching just above the waist. The skirt has wide, deep scalloping around the edges. On the back of the dress is a bow of the same material, set just above the lower back. From the hips around to the back are added panels of the same fabric forming tiers of ruffles, and two long panels are attached below the ruffles to hang down back. Closure along left side, alternating snaps and hooks-and-eyes. The dress is unlined, although the back ruffle panels are lined in a dark mahogany brown/red silk. Sewn in ribbon with hand-written notation: "72 20 499 29-327/979" (faded)
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ballgown

Ballgown

Date: 1985/1989
Creator: De la Renta, Oscar
Description: Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: unknown
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Cocktail dress of black silk gazar. The halter-style neckline of the dress ends in straps at center back of the fitted, dropped-waist bodice. The skirt is a semi-full, gathered, mid-thigh length. There is a boned inner bodice of black silk tulle with bust pads, grosgrain bust and waist stays fastening with hooks-and-eyes, an elaborate closure involving halter drape and inner and outer zippers down the left sideseam and five snaps that secure the halter panel and disguise the zipper. Fully lined in black chiffon. Label stitched on right side of inner bodice "Givenchy" and "Made In France". Underneath Givenchy label is sewn-in tape with hand-written note: "80 945"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunburst Dress

Sunburst Dress

Date: 1990
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Black "sunburst" evening dress with bustle. The fitted, full-length sheath is of black silk satin with black velvet "sunburst" motif repeated over the dress. The gown is strapless, with diagonally draped over-panels that meet at center front and form a large bow which tilts up to cover the left shoulder. There is a zipper closure along the left sideseam with hook-and-eye closure at neckline which is concealed by the bust panel, which is snapped to the dress and bow. The back waistline seam has a three-tiered ruffled bustle which has a snap at left side to accommodate the zipper. The skirt flares from knee to hemline. There is a boned black silk inner bodice with bust pads and bust and waist stays. The inner bodice has a zipper closure at left side, just inside the outer zipper. Designer's label inside garment, stitched over right side bone: "Givenchy / Made In / France". Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows the gown as displayed with a hat by Balenciaga (Accession #: 1981.022.026).
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1980/1989
Creator: De la Renta, Oscar
Description: Evening gown of ivory satin and black lace. Garment is a full-length, A-line ivory satin dress with 3 wide horizontal bands of applied black lace on skirt and an attached black lace empire-style over-bodice. The bodice, consisting of overlapping lace scallops, has a deep square neckline and full-length sleeves. There are two covered snap closures on each wrist and a series of paired covered snap closures down center back. The dress has a center-back zipper with a single hook-and-eye fastener at the neckline. The ivory silk inner bodice has internal steel(?) boning for shaping, and fastens with a center-back zipper and internal grosgrain band waist stay. Inside the gown is a full-length, attached ivory satin slip with horsehair hem. The dress is piece-lined in ivory organza with a horsehair hem. Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "4677S".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Tunic

Tunic

Date: 1970/1980
Creator: Curiel
Description: Tunic of gold brocade. Knee-length A-line tunic with open rounded neckline and 3/4-length sleeves. The neckline, cuffs and hem are embellished with applied bands of gold, silver, topaz and rose-colored bugle beads, sequins and rhinestones. Center back zipper closure with four hook-and-eye closures at the neckline.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Jumpsuit

Jumpsuit

Date: 1966/1967
Creator: unknown
Description: Jumpsuit of pink, yellow, green and blue horizontal striped paper. The full-length rayon fiber remay paper pantsuit has olive green, pink, blue and tan stripes. Bodice is sleeveless, empire style, with with high rounded neckline and narrow spread collar, with stripes going horizontally. There is a center back zipper closure from the neck to hip-level. Pants are full-length, wide legged palazzo pants with vertical stripes. The pant legs are slit from the hem to mid-calf, and are unhemmed. The piece is lined in a white rayon fiber paper cloth. Retailer's label at inside left beneath the collar: "Change-In-Time / Boutique / Dallas, Texas".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design