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 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Dress
Evening dress of orange/tangerine silk chiffon with cut velvet fish scale design in silvery white partly outlined with silver bugle beads. Sleeveless, with round scoop neck, and armholes cut to waist. Straight tubular shape with drop waist, with a swag of pleated self-fabric at left hip, trimmed with five rhinestone medallions. 1" fur trim at hem. Dress has been shortened and fur may have been added at that time. Probably originally 1918-20's style. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30088/
Dress
Dress of rose pink rayon and silk, with ivory silk Peter Pan collar and with cut-out stitched trim. 24 silver ball buttons on left side, and geometric triple-tiered ruffles with drop-waist and self-fabric belt with silver buckle. Long, straight sleeves with ivory satin cuffs with stitched trim; single snap closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29996/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of gold metallic brocade in a floral motif with multicolored rectangles. Cocoon-style, with white fox collar, the full-length barrel sleeves with matching fur trimmed cuffs. The coat has a single button closure, and pink silk satin lining. Label: "Hattie Moss, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29999/
Afternoon Dress
Afternoon dress of dark green silk satin, crepe and chiffon. The tunic-style dress of dark green silk satin is street-length, with a drop waist. It has a slight standing collar at back which extends out in front to become long ties with a backing of dark maroon. Below the bow formed by the ties is V-shaped neckline. The full-length sleeves are dark green silk satin from shoulders to elbows and are translucent green crepe from elbows to cuffs. The main part of the gauze sections are embroidered with floral motifs in red, pink, and green/gold. The sleeves have two snaps at each cuff, which are trimmed with bands of pink crepe, maroon crepe, and dark green satin. On the front of the skirt are three wide, slightly overlapping tiers of fabric, split at center front, which start below the hips and end slightly above the hem. The dress is unlined, and there are no tags or labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29995/
Jacket
Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin. Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29991/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of black and gold brocade in a large scale tropical motif. The wrap-style coat has a shawl collar of red fox fur with kimono style sleeves trimmed in fox. The coat is fully lined in gold silk velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29997/
Dress
Dress. Bodice of vertically striped blue and black satin with short sleeves in black. Shallow v-neck trimmed with band of gold net ribbon which continues down center of back to waist. Bodice has black band just below bust line as "hem". Below this hem is pleated sash of blue and black striped materials at raised waistline, and a second band of the striped material running vertically from below "hem" to under top tier of skirt. Mid-calf-length black skirt with two vertical tiers of long box pleats from waistline. Bodice is lined in cream silk(?) with wide ribbon inner waistband, with cream-trimmed pads added at underarms. Skirt is lined in black. Garment fastens down back from neck to mid-thigh with a series of hook-and-eye and hook-and-loop closures. Sash around waist fastens at center front and has hook-and-loop closures running around left side to back. Garment has no labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29990/
Suit
Woman's suit consisting of three pieces, a coat, blouse, and skirt. Coat and skirt are made of navy blue wool. The coat has a center front opening, and long sleeves which end just above wrist. The skirt is slightly below mid-calf length. The blouse is made of rust-colored chiffon with rounded neck, and is decorated with beading and embroidery. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29994/
Bonnet.
Bonnet of blue silk. Brim is hand-quilted in square corners and curving lines that follow the shape of the brim in even lines. The brim is composed of 3 pieces of silk fabric, which are pieced together and then quilted. Cotton used as batting material throughout. The crown is entirely quilted in rows of horizontal stitching and radiating circles. The tail has L-shaped quilting, which echoes the front edge of the tail. The chin ties are striped silk ribbons. Some areas of fabric loss and shattering on bonnet and ties. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29993/
Handbag
Handbag of multi-colored glass beads of boldly colored, somewhat stylized floral design. Bronze frame cast with floral forms and openwork, and set with navy blue and green rhinestones. Roses on frame have remains of applied coloration. Suspension chain in rope form with spaced clusters of green and blue beads. Bag has fringe at bottom composed of loops of green and black faceted beads. Off-white satin lining, mostly deteriorated. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30015/
Bergère Hat
Black silk organza bergère-style hat. The hat has a floppy double-layer brim, the under brim of slightly stiffer black silk organza, overlaid with upper brim of same material. The low, circular crown is encircled at the base by a folded black ribbon, which ties at back and has trailing ends. Inside base of crown is band of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into ribbon is designer label: "Galanos". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30002/
Handbag
Handbag. Cast and chased silver framework decorated with openwork figures of children harvesting grapes. Ball/snap closure. Silver suspension chain of alternating oval links and links formed of three flower-heads. Bag is of black wool with petit point embroidery decoration on each side of a bouquet of flowers. Pink satin lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30012/
Dress
Dress of printed nylon with metallic embroidery. The fabric is a printed nylon with abstract floral designs in browns, yellows, and oranges on a cream ground, with areas of metallic embroidered leaf forms over the whole of the dress. The formal dress is full-length, with a slight train. Sleeveless, it has wide straps and a shallow rounded neckline, which deepens into a V in back. The natural or low waist has seaming below below the bust to create a band of horizontal ruching just above the waist. The skirt has wide, deep scalloping around the edges. On the back of the dress is a bow of the same material, set just above the lower back. From the hips around to the back are added panels of the same fabric forming tiers of ruffles, and two long panels are attached below the ruffles to hang down back. Closure along left side, alternating snaps and hooks-and-eyes. The dress is unlined, although the back ruffle panels are lined in a dark mahogany brown/red silk. Sewn in ribbon with hand-written notation: "72 20 499 29-327/979" (faded) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30001/
Dress
Dress of oyster white linen. The daytime dress is designed as a "Sailor Dress", with a straight silhouette and short sleeves. It has a blue "sailor collar" trimmed with two bands of white linen. The sleeves are likewise edged in a wide blue band with two white linen stripes. There is a red silk faille tie. The street-length skirt has two patch pockets at front. Zipper closure at left side. The dress is unlined, and has inner waistband of oyster grosgrain ribbon with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label sewn inside skirt at left side: "Traina-Norell / New York". The dress has an accompanying narrow navy blue leather belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30055/
High-Heeled Shoes
One pair of woman's high-heeled shoes with split t-strap, forming an inverted "V" from vamp to strap. The shoes are covered in a metallic copper/bronze silk textured weave and edged in gold metallic finished leather. The Boulevard set-under heels are lacquered with a metallic gold finish and set with rhinestones. One shoe with label inside: "Wise Shoe / For Every Occasion" Both shoes with hand-marked notations: "6 1/2 aa / D30014 / 11-564" Some rhinestones on the heels have been replaced at some point in the past with other rhinestones that do not quite match the original stones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30053/
Platform Sandals
Pair of platform sandals. Shoes have gold kid leather upper, the vamp knotted. Black patent leather covered soles and heels. 4 1/4" high block-style set-back heel. Written on inside of back strap on each shoe: "5 1/2 B 342440". Stamped on each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30172/
Skirt
Skirt of open weave silk ribbons. The floor-length skirt is created of loosely woven silk ribbons of yellow, red, blue, green, pink, orange, brown, white, and black, forming a lattice or trellis. It gathers into the orange waistband, which has a single hook-and-eye closure, and is unlined. No labels in garment. Designed Fall 1996. Gift of the Todd Oldham Archives. Bodice in image is a modern wrap placed on form for display purposes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30295/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of striped fabric. The low-crowned cylindrical hat is covered in a gray fabric having red, green, black, white, and gold stripes reminiscent of a man's tie. Around the crown the fabric is pleated and draped, giving the effect of a low turban. Lined in a pink satin, with dusty rose pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30292/
Derby
Derby of hot pink leaves. Hat in the style of a derby, completely covered in various shades of hot pink leaf-shapes cut out of velvet, satin, and other fabrics. Cylindrical crown, up-turned brim. The hat is lined in hot pink fabric and has a pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into the inner hatband is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30291/
Pantsuit
Evening pantsuit of ivory, blue, and black striped silk consisting of three pieces: a) Mid-length jacket of vertically striped silk with very wide, straight sleeves. Center front opening with no closure. Attached shoulder pads. (b) Pants of matching silk. Full-length, with center back snaps and hook-and-eye closure. Designed to fit loosely, with drawstring waist. (c) Short sleeved tank-style top of matching silk. Sleeveless, with round neckline. The hem, armholes, and neckline are trimmed in black. Each piece has designer's label "Oscar de la Renta". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30336/
Dress
Evening dress of pale yellow silk chiffon with bead detailing. V-neckline in front creating the halter, with pieces draped from halter down and out to sides. The entire bodice is finely pleated and gathered, and has beaded panels which creates an empire waist. The beaded panels vary from narrow at center front to wide at sides, and meet at center back. The beading is white and silver beaded horizontal stripes on a mauve background. The skirt is formed by the chiffon being gathered into the beaded panels in many layers and falling to the floor. Dress has a matching lining and has a zipper down center back with hook-and-eye closures at top of zipper and at halter. Label in gown: "Victoria Royal Ltd. / Made In / British Crown Colony / of / Hong Kong". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30333/
Hat
"Lampshade" style hat of black straw or raffia. The basically conical hat is woven of a black straw material, with flattened top. On the front of the hat, off-set to the left, is affixed a wide black velvet ribbon from the top edge of the crown down to almost the brim. Sewn to the ribbon at top is a circular stamped metal brooch set with 17 large circular rhinestones in three concentric circles. The hat is lined in black net, with inner black grosgrain hatband. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is manufacturer's label: "Edette / Exclusive / New York - Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30155/
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246" This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972. The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must look like the light shining through the stained glass windows of the Chapel." The ensemble has a matching pair of shoes by Roger Viver made of fabric in the same print. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30152/
Coat
Sleeveless coat of navy on white zebra printed wool. The street-length coat is of slight A-line, widening to hem. It has wide straps, no collar, and center front opening with 5 circular dark blue plastic buttons. At each hip is a patch pocket with simulated flap, the fabric of the pockets chosen to match the placement on the print. The coat is fully lined in navy fabric. Inside neckline at back is designer's label "Givenchy", folded so that "Made In / France" is not visible. This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a blue wool jersey knit top and slacks. Donor noted that it was "Made for Monte Carlo for day wear". There is also a hat that was worn with the ensemble (1978.013.062) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30151/
Pumps
Pair of metallic leather pumps. Shoes of textured pink or rose metallic hue with silver undertones, edged in black velvet on vamp and around peep-toe. Slingback, fastened by black rhinestone-accented buckles. 3 1/4" spike/stiletto heels covered in the same leather. Each shoe marked inside vamp: "4 1/2 M 4311-SLW / 26080". Stamped on left shoe: "Herbert Levine / Fine Shoes"; Stamped on right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus". Stamped on both "Hand / Lasted". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30157/
Pillbox Hat
Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner band is a plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa". The jeweled ornament is attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. Donor notes of this hat: "...to wear with short black cocktail dresses." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30150/
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Evening ensemble of a dress, jacket and belt. The full-length sleeveless evening dress is of black silk, with a slim silhouette. It has a wide, shallow V-neck at front, and has decorative twist in the fabric at back, which creates a deeper V. The wide straps are ruched at front with non-functional rhinestone-encrusted clasps sewn to them. The bodice has decorative seaming under bust and around the hips. The dress has a black silk belt with a rhinestone-encrusted "buckle", which functions as a large hook-and-eye rather than a buckle. The jacket is of matching black silk, lined with a cream-colored taffeta. The short, bell-shaped sleeves have a second "layer" creating the effect of a wide ruffle. Padded tubes of silk curve along each shoulder, tapering under the arm at front and back. There is a center front opening with no closure, which is "cut away" in a curve at front, giving the overall effect of a miniature 'cropped' opera cape. No labels in either garment. Possibly acquired by Ms. Hewett in France in the 1930's while studying medieval music manuscripts. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30154/
Dress
Dress of bright green chiffon printed with multi-color shapes and with all-over scattered sequins and beading. The full-length A-line sheath has a round neckline with beaded band trim at neckline. The long sleeves have five non-functioning beaded buttons at wrist, and five hidden snap closures from wrist. The dress has an attached underdress of matte silk printed with same design as the overdress. The garment is fully lined with cream silk which has woven into it a repeated pattern of Hanae Mori's name. The underdress has a zipper closure at center back from neckline to above waist. The overdress has a series of hidden snaps to conceal the zipper, and a line of eight beaded buttons matching those on the sleeves, also non-functional. A single hook-and-loop closure at neck secures the top of the garment. The printed design includes circles, flowers, and fluid lines and triangles in shades of pink, yellow, blue, orange, and violet. The sequins are clear, and are secured with tiny colored beads, the colors of which match the color of the dress they are sewn over. Sewn inside dress at back at left of zipper is designer label: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30156/
Pajamas
Men's pajamas of silk crepe. The two-piece set consists of a top and pants, both made of silk crepe printed with a design of large eyes decorated with teardrop-shaped colored "gems". The top has a rounded notched collar, long sleeves, and a patch pocket at left breast. The center front opening has four circular black buttons. The collar, center-front opening, and pocket are edged in black trim. Unlined. The top has a designer's label inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham" The full-length pants are wide-legged, and have a drawstring in the waistband. The pants have four labels sewn in: Designer's Label: "Todd / Oldham" Size: "S" Content: "100% / Silk" Care: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / In U.S.A." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30297/
Dress
Dress of striped cotton broadcloth. The "house dress" style garment is street-length, in various patterns of woven striped cotton broadcloth. It has a center front opening that extends the length of the dress and secures with 7 gold-colored metal buttons set with colored rhinestones and on hidden hook-and-eye closure at waist. The wide collar is primarily in yellow with very narrow stripes of orange and blue. The bodice is of vertical stripes of reds, purples, pinks, etc. The skirt, which gathers into the natural waist, is in vertical stripes of blues with thin maroon and green accent stripes. The short sleeves are in stripes of blues, red, yellow and white, and have french cuffs secured with metal rhinestone-set cuff-links. The dress is unlined. The accompanying belt/sash is of the same fabric as the sleeves, and is finished at the ends as cuffs with sewn-on cuff-links matching the sleeves. Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham". Four labels sewn inside skirt at side seam: Content: "100% / Cotton" Care: "Dry Clean / Only" Size: "S" Origin: "Made / In U.S.A." From Oldham's Spring 1994 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30298/
Coat
Coat of printed satin. The floor-length coat has a rounded neckline and a center-front opening that extends the entire length of the garment and is secured with a single cloth-covered circular button at the throat. It has long sleeves and is fully lined in a salmon damask silk woven with a floral-foliate design. The entire garment is photo-printed with scenes of room interiors in various styles. Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd Oldham". From Oldham's Spring 1997 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30294/
Dress
Dress of photo-printed knit. The sheath-style dress is of a polyester/lycra blend sueded knit. Full-length, the dress has a "crew neck" rounded neckline with slight standing collar and short cap sleeves. The dress widens at the hips and tapers to the hem, and has a back vent slit at center back from hem up 47.5cm. The entire garment is photo-printed with images of "travel scenes" of the west - roads, lakes, cacti, cows on farms, rock formations, etc. Designer's label inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham" Three tags inside near hem: Size: "M" Care: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / In U.S.A." Content: "85% Polyester / 15% Lycra". From Oldham's Spring 1996 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30299/
Coat
Coat of black wool. The hip-length coat is constructed of black felted wool with yellow, red, green, brown, blue, and orange bands of grosgrain ribbon woven in and out of the wool, forming a grid or trellis pattern over the entire garment. The coat has a notched collar and long sleeves, and has a center-front closure with three circular silver colored metal buttons. It is fully lined with black silk. Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd Oldham". From Oldham's Fall 1996 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30296/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Dress and coat of peacock feathers. The short, sleeveless dress is entirely covered with peacock breast feathers, accented with a 1" band of blue cording and chenille trim at neckline and with blue cord spaghetti straps. It is fully lined with navy polyester. The long, sleeveless coat is covered with peacock herl / flue feathers. It has a round neckline, and no closure. These pieces are part of a larger ensemble, consisting of a total of 9 pieces decorated with peacock and/or golden pheasant feathers. Worn to the Emmy Awards ceremony in Los Angeles, California, April 1976. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30293/
Dress
Dress of red satin and black velvet. The above-the-knee length dress has a fitted princess-line bodice with dropped waist and V-neckline. The long sleeves have moderate puff at shoulders, and wrist closure with four red satin covered buttons on each wrist. The turned-back cuffs are of black velvet, as is the wired, rolled collar. The full skirt gathers at the waistline. There is a center-back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at neckline, and the collar detaches to accommodate the opening. The dress is fully lined in red chiffon, with bust pads and hip stay band which fastens at center back with hook-and-eye. Designer's label is sewn inside at right side near armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France". Underneath the designer's label is sewn a second label with hand-written notation "80535". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30247/
Dress
Dress of navy blue wool knit. The mid-length dress has a contrasting red wool knit mandarin collar and long sleeves with red wool knit cuffs. There are two large patch pockets at front, and a center front closure with twelve circular mother-of-pearl buttons mounted with gold-colored metal rims and shanks. The buttonholes are bound with the contrasting red wool knit. The dress has an attached wide red wool knit belt/sash which ties at waist in front. The dress is fully lined in dark navy blue silk. Designer's label inside lining of skirt at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30240/
Dress
Dinner dress of printed silk organza. The dress is composed of two parts. The caftan-like outer layer of the dress consists of a square silk organza cocoon printed in psychedelic motifs in purples, blues, pinks and chartreuse. It has a high rounded neckline with center back opening secured with six loops and covered buttons. There are applied flat cuffs at the wrist openings and waist-level slits at center front to accommodate the sash. There is a center front slit from hem to knee-level. The inner dress is a matching, full-length, sleeveless sheath in printed silk of the same design. It has a high rounded neckline with center back zipper closure from neck to hip with a single hook-and-eye closure at the neckline. The outer caftan and inner sheath are joined at the neckline. There is a printed silk organza sash of the same fabric that meets at center front and secures with two hook-and-eye closures and has self ties to disguise closure. The sash is swing tacked at the back. There is a center front slit from the hem to knee-level. Lime green silk panels are inset at sideseams, running from the underarm to the hem, and may be later additions to the garment. The dress is fully lined in green silk crepe. Designer's label located inside left center back, beside the zipper: Pierre Cardin / Paris New York". Retailer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Maisonette / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30265/
Evening Suit
Evening suit of black velvet. The ensemble consists of a jacket of black velvet with machine embroidered vine and floral motifs in black threads and black beads. The coat has a notched collar, long sleeves with wide cuffs and two non-functional buttons on each sleeve, and two non-functional pockets at front. Center-front opening with two circular black satin-covered buttons. The lapels, cuffs, and pocket flaps are all of black satin. The knee-length skirt of of the same fabric, with satin waistband. Short zipper closure at side with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. Designer's label inside jacket at collar: "Givenchy", with model number written on cloth tape sewn underneath label: "74075" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30268/
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment. The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt and Blouse
Suit in hot pink nubbly wool knit. The ensemble consists of three pieces: a jacket, matching skirt, and black silk shell. The jacket is hip-length, with a shawl collar which has an attached black silk tie. The center front closure has 6 circular brass buttons with central embossed lion's heads and black outer edges. There are four faux flap pockets at front, two on each side of opening, each with button matching those of the closure. The long sleeves have simulated closure, with a line of three buttons matching others on each sleeve. The pocket flaps, cuffs, collar, center front, and hem are all edged in black. Designer's label sewn inside jacket at collar: "Adolfo / New York", with retailer's label sewn in just below: "Neiman-Marcus". The matching skirt is below-knee length, of the same pink wool knit, with pleating beginning 7" below waistband and extending to hem. Skirt has designer's label sewn inside at waistband as jacket. The accompanying black silk blouse is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Single black silk -covered button closure at back of neck. Shell has designer's label sewn inside at left of closure as jacket. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30285/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of tan and blue braided straw. The hat has a wired brim and a grayish-white silk lining. It is trimmed in tan silk ribbon, and the bavolet, or back panel which shades the neck, is composed of brown, brick red, tan and blue striped cotton fabric. The ties are of brown silk taffeta and are attached to lower edge of brim with a herringbone stitch. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30282/
Patchwork Dress
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multi-colored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline. Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo". Worn by singer Lena Horne (1917-2010). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30289/
Wedding Ensemble
Wedding ensemble of ivory silk embroidered with green and yellow crewel flowers. The bodice of the dress is sleeveless, with scoop neck and fitted seaming. The skirt is floor-length at front, with train at back. The surface of the skirt is decorated with crewel embroidery of flowers in pinks, greens, reds, and blues. The lower part of the skirt has a wide band of lace in floral patterns, with an under layer of pleated plain net with embroidered dots. The dress has a center back zipper closure and is lined in ivory fabric, and has an attached petticoat. Matching the dress is a fitted jacket of ivory silk, long sleeves, and stand-up collar. The collar and cuffs are trimmed in the same net as the hem of the dress. The fitted jacket has a peplum and center front closure with four silk cord frog closures which snap on left side and disguise a series of snaps and hook-and-eyes. The collar, cuffs, and panels at front and back are bordered by striped bands of yellow, blue, green, and coral/pink ribbon. The panels formed on front and back have crewel embroidered flowers as the dress. Jacket is fully lined in ivory fabric. Not shown in photo is the accompanying hat of ivory silk. The low ivory silk brim is tear-drop in shape, the point at the front edge of the hat. The rolled brim encircles the lace crown and anchors the ivory net slight veil which extends around brim. At back of hat is short "tail" of net. Hat has an off-white grosgrain inner hat-band and a black cord to secure hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30283/
Hat
Hat of green felt. Designed as a modified cloche, the had is formed of a deep, domed crown of green felt with a rolled edge at back that extends to become a high, curved brim in front. The front extension is crowned by a feathered ornament formed as a stylized bird looking downwards. The "bird" has tan and dark feathers for the tail, green feathers for neck and breast, and a black plastic(?) beak. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark gray/bronze colored net, which extends at front and sides to become a veil. Around inside of crown is dark brown/black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30118/
Dress
Dress of navy wool gabardine in two parts. The main body of the tubular-shaped dress is full-length, sleeveless, with a round neckline. It has decorative bead-work at upper bust, on back at shoulders and down spine, in a line from right hip down to hem, and around hem. The bead-work includes lines of red and clear beads, spirals and "bursts" of clear and red beads, circular ornaments of red beads, and a roundel at front to bottom right at hem of a scene of a wine jug against a blue, clear and green background. The dress has an opening from left shoulder to waist which is secured with a line of hidden snaps, and is decorated with nine cloth and plastic circular non-functioning buttons arranged in groups of three. The dress is unlined. The dress has with it a detachable cropped camisole of white cotton with center front hook-and-eyes closure and white elastic waistband. The sleeves of the camisole are of navy wool gabardine, bell-shaped, and match the dress. They are decorated with the same style bead-work as the dress, including lines of red and clear beads running from shoulders to wrist, clear and red beaded spirals and "bursts", and roundels with designs in blue, red, and green. When worn, the camisole sleeves blend in with the dress and look like one garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30119/
Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851" From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30084/
Purse
Purse. Ornate bell-shaped silver (plated?) frame with openwork latticework set with red and blue cabochons and with silver (plated?) chain. Body of purse is of crocheted gray with vertical stripes of horizontal rows of faceted blue beads. Bottom of bag with fringe formed of loops of matching beading. Lined in gray satin with roses and vine trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30089/
Raincoat
( At left) Raincoat of black vinyl. The modified A-line coat is of short length, extending to just at or below the knee, and has long sleeves. Center-front opening is secured with 3 silver/chrome clip closures, one at the rounded neckline and two at waist. There is one patch pocket at the right hip. The coat is fully lined in synthetic with vertical stripes of pink, green, blue, violet, and red on a black ground. Manufacturer's label inside at center back just below neckline: "La Flaque / de Paris". At right inside side-seam is a Union Label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30086/
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt, Blouse and Scarf
Ensemble of teal silk Ottoman. The suit consists of a jacket and skirt, blouse, and scarf. The jacket is of horizontally ribbed teal silk, banded on the bias, has a rounded neckline, is long sleeved, and has princess seaming for a tailored fit. The sleeves have soft pleating at the shoulders, and there are 3 circular gold buttons set with rhinestones at each cuff. There is a center front closure with 4 large buttons matching the style of sleeve buttons and one hidden snap at top. The buttonholes are hidden in the seam of the opening. The jacket is lined in black silk. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back of neck: "Richard Brooks". The matching skirt is of the same silk Ottoman, below-knee length, with soft pleats at front and darts at back from waistband down 5 1/2". Small slit at center back from hem upwards. The sides are cut on straight vertical stripe. The waistband has hook and two eyes, and there is a center back zipper closure. The skirt is lined in teal silk. There are no labels in the skirt. The blouse is of a thin teal green and metallic gold jacquard, woven with an ornate all-over paisley pattern. There is a banded collar and slight pleating/gathering on front at yoke, and at top of the long sleeves. Center back zipper closure extends from collar almost to hem, and has two hook-and-eyes at collar. The blouse has attached shoulder pads. There is no label in the blouse. An accompanying scarf is of iridescent teal silk chiffon, edged with the same jacquard materials the blouse is made from. There is no label on the scarf. Designed for Texas Governor Ann Richards. The silk is from Abraham Fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30305/
Ensemble - Vest and Pants
Ensemble consisting of a vest and pants. The vest is of wool,with a scoop-neck and with 5 hook-and-eye closures down center front. It is covered in sewn-on black sequins, and has a 1" border of orange, white and gold beads with gold trim at neckline, front opening, hem, and armholes. On the front and back of the vest are 3" diamond shapes formed of the same beads. The white and orange beads are plastic. The vest is fully lined in black fabric. Labels in vest: "Valentina LTD / RN 34435 / Made in Hong Kong"; "100% Wool / Made in Hong Kong"; and "Medium". The pants are formed as a divided skirt of black wool in a satin weave simulating crepe-back satin. They are floor length, with full-length accordion pleats. There is a wide 3" waistband that is completely beaded to match the vest. The pants have a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband, and are unlined. Inside the pants is a single tag at waistband: "Lot Number 11/12". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30302/
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