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 Decade: 1930-1939
 Year: 1935
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Date: 1935
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening ensemble of a dress, jacket and belt. The full-length sleeveless evening dress is of black silk, with a slim silhouette. It has a wide, shallow V-neck at front, and has decorative twist in the fabric at back, which creates a deeper V. The wide straps are ruched at front with non-functional rhinestone-encrusted clasps sewn to them. The bodice has decorative seaming under bust and around the hips. The dress has a black silk belt with a rhinestone-encrusted "buckle", which functions as a large hook-and-eye rather than a buckle. The jacket is of matching black silk, lined with a cream-colored taffeta. The short, bell-shaped sleeves have a second "layer" creating the effect of a wide ruffle. Padded tubes of silk curve along each shoulder, tapering under the arm at front and back. There is a center front opening with no closure, which is "cut away" in a curve at front, giving the overall effect of a miniature 'cropped' opera cape. No labels in either garment. Possibly acquired by Ms. Hewett in France in the 1930's while studying medieval music manuscripts.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1935/1939
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of green felt. Designed as a modified cloche, the had is formed of a deep, domed crown of green felt with a rolled edge at back that extends to become a high, curved brim in front. The front extension is crowned by a feathered ornament formed as a stylized bird looking downwards. The "bird" has tan and dark feathers for the tail, green feathers for neck and breast, and a black plastic(?) beak. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark gray/bronze colored net, which extends at front and sides to become a veil. Around inside of crown is dark brown/black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1935/1939
Creator: unknown
Description: Black velvet calotte (also spelled "calot") covered with faux pearls and diamonds. The circular domed hat has a narrow, up-turned brim which is completely covered with a latticework of oval faux pearls, with faux diamonds set at each intersection. At the top of the crown is an upstanding black velvet covered wire surmounted by a "mushroom cap" beaded in the same way as the rest of the hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon, the hat lined in black netting.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1935/1939
Creator: Florell, Walter, ca. 1911-1986
Description: Raised beret-style hat of creme felt. Stiffened body of hat has a sienna/orange-brown grosgrain ribbon bow at top of crown, with tails of bow extending to sides, along front to edge, and trailing off of the back of the hat. The hat is surmounted by a light-brown plume of ostrich feathers. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. There is a thin black elastic strap to go around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn to inside band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1935
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of black and purple diagonal woven stripe taffeta. It has a V- neckline in front and back, and has a fitted bodice with balloon peplum which gathers into the waist. Sleeveless, the dress has black velvet straps with striped flounces on each side and has black velvet petals attached to the straps. The long, straight skirt has a front slit. Dress has a center back zipper closure, and is unlined. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1935/1939
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of brown felt. Hat has a high, cylindrical crown, slightly "crumpled", with an asymmetrical brown felt brim that extends out and curls upwards. Highest point of brim is at front of the hat. Round crown, above mid-point, is hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon embellished with branching forms of beading, sequins, and metal leaves. This band meets at back and has extending segments cut at angles hanging from the back of the hat. Dark brown grosgrain ribbon hatband inside crown, with thin elastic cord fastened on either side to act as chinstrap to secure hat to wearer's head. The crown of the hat is composed of two sections of felt with the band of grosgrain ribbon between them. From inside of hat the back of the ribbon and the stitching of the beading is visible. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1935~
Creator: Emme
Description: Hat of sequins and feathers. Styled somewhat as a bowler, the base of the hat is of a stiffened net, the oval, low crown domed and covered with layered, curved strings of black sequins. The brim is of the same construction, turned slightly down, and with a slight "wave" along the sides and back. At side is a large pouf of gray/black ostrich feathers. Lined in black, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Emme / Inc. / 21 East 56th Street / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1935~
Creator: Emme
Description: Hatlet of navy blue felt and feathers. The low, oval, domed crown is made of spaced strips of navy blue felt arranged as concentric circles, secured to cross-strips, and with a knotwork interweaving at the back into which are secured a spray of dark blue feathers. The hat is unlined, with a dark blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Emme / Inc. / 21 East 56th Street / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1935~
Creator: Emme
Description: Hatlet of green velvet. The low, domed crown is encircled by a wide band of pleated green velvet bands, a large green velvet bow, and five clusters of magenta velvet strawberries with green velvet leaves. The hat is lined in the same green velvet, and has two small faux tortoise shell combs inside to help secure to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Emme"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1935~
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hatlet of black feathers. Designed on a stiffened base, the hatlet forms a band across head from side to side, shaped as curled wings, overlaid with black feathers. Lined in black stiff net, with a black grosgrain inner edging. Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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