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 Decade: 1930-1939
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat

Hat

Date: 1935/1939
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of green felt. Designed as a modified cloche, the had is formed of a deep, domed crown of green felt with a rolled edge at back that extends to become a high, curved brim in front. The front extension is crowned by a feathered ornament formed as a stylized bird looking downwards. The "bird" has tan and dark feathers for the tail, green feathers for neck and breast, and a black plastic(?) beak. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark gray/bronze colored net, which extends at front and sides to become a veil. Around inside of crown is dark brown/black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1935/1939
Creator: Florell, Walter, ca. 1911-1986
Description: Raised beret-style hat of creme felt. Stiffened body of hat has a sienna/orange-brown grosgrain ribbon bow at top of crown, with tails of bow extending to sides, along front to edge, and trailing off of the back of the hat. The hat is surmounted by a light-brown plume of ostrich feathers. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. There is a thin black elastic strap to go around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn to inside band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1930
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of printed nylon with metallic embroidery. The fabric is a printed nylon with abstract floral designs in browns, yellows, and oranges on a cream ground, with areas of metallic embroidered leaf forms over the whole of the dress. The formal dress is full-length, with a slight train. Sleeveless, it has wide straps and a shallow rounded neckline, which deepens into a V in back. The natural or low waist has seaming below below the bust to create a band of horizontal ruching just above the waist. The skirt has wide, deep scalloping around the edges. On the back of the dress is a bow of the same material, set just above the lower back. From the hips around to the back are added panels of the same fabric forming tiers of ruffles, and two long panels are attached below the ruffles to hang down back. Closure along left side, alternating snaps and hooks-and-eyes. The dress is unlined, although the back ruffle panels are lined in a dark mahogany brown/red silk. Sewn in ribbon with hand-written notation: "72 20 499 29-327/979" (faded)
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1939
Creator: Florell, Walter, ca. 1911-1986
Description: Hat of camel-colored cashmere felt. The crown is roughly cone-shaped, swelling at center and flattened at an angle at the top. Near the bottom of the crown is a band of black grosgrain ribbon, below which the hat swells out to become the asymmetrical brim. At center back is black grosgrain ribbon bow, to which is attached trailing golden tan/brown ostrich plumes. Inside crown is hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn onto the inner ribbon is designer's label: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1935
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of black and purple diagonal woven stripe taffeta. It has a V- neckline in front and back, and has a fitted bodice with balloon peplum which gathers into the waist. Sleeveless, the dress has black velvet straps with striped flounces on each side and has black velvet petals attached to the straps. The long, straight skirt has a front slit. Dress has a center back zipper closure, and is unlined. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1930
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of blue, green, pink, and black taffeta and satin in horizontal woven bands. The full-length dress has a sweetheart neckline which gathers at bust to simulate a bow. The fitted bodice has short raglan-style sleeves with gathers at the shoulder seams. The long skirt is gathered at the natural waist. The dress is unlined, and has hook-and-eye closures on left side along bodice.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Date: 1935
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening ensemble of a dress, jacket and belt. The full-length sleeveless evening dress is of black silk, with a slim silhouette. It has a wide, shallow V-neck at front, and has decorative twist in the fabric at back, which creates a deeper V. The wide straps are ruched at front with non-functional rhinestone-encrusted clasps sewn to them. The bodice has decorative seaming under bust and around the hips. The dress has a black silk belt with a rhinestone-encrusted "buckle", which functions as a large hook-and-eye rather than a buckle. The jacket is of matching black silk, lined with a cream-colored taffeta. The short, bell-shaped sleeves have a second "layer" creating the effect of a wide ruffle. Padded tubes of silk curve along each shoulder, tapering under the arm at front and back. There is a center front opening with no closure, which is "cut away" in a curve at front, giving the overall effect of a miniature 'cropped' opera cape. No labels in either garment. Possibly acquired by Ms. Hewett in France in the 1930's while studying medieval music manuscripts.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1935/1939
Creator: unknown
Description: Black velvet calotte (also spelled "calot") covered with faux pearls and diamonds. The circular domed hat has a narrow, up-turned brim which is completely covered with a latticework of oval faux pearls, with faux diamonds set at each intersection. At the top of the crown is an upstanding black velvet covered wire surmounted by a "mushroom cap" beaded in the same way as the rest of the hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon, the hat lined in black netting.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1930/1939
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of green suede pumps. Vamp of shoe with 5 bands of green satin ribbon running across the vamp and throat. The throat has V-cut sections on either side, with crossing bands of suede where the V intersects the ribbon. Lined in cream/grey kid leather. 2 1/2" high modified continental heels, covered in green suede. Stamped inside right shoe: " 'Charmant' / Fashions / A. Harris & Co. Dallas". Noted inside both shoes: "38 - 0 14465"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Sandals

Evening Sandals

Date: 1930
Creator: Delman
Description: Pair of heeled sandals. Uppers made of black peau du soi silk crepe over leather. Edged in gold kid leather. Vamp formed of three bands, each with applied central black silk circular piece with attached gilt metal neoclassical head. Shoes buckle at side with oval gilt metal buckles set with rhinestones. 2 5/8" Boulevard-style heel. For late afternoon or evening wear. Inscribed in each shoe: "Sp14630 / 58545" Labels: In right shoe: "DELMAN / New York - Chicago - London - Paris"; In left shoe: "BERGDORF / GOODMAN".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Gloves

Gloves

Date: 1930/1939
Creator: Julius Kayser & Co.
Description: Pair of ladies' gloves. The "hands" are of pale brown with white fabric, possibly a silk/cotton blend. Seamed on inside, they have 3 darts on back of each hand done with dark brown stitching. At wrist on each side is a v-shaped extension which joins to the "cuff", which is of light brown cotton with yellow tones. The scalloped edges of the "cuff" and semi-circular sections on the back of each are piped in dark brown fabric. The "cuffs" are styled as a wrap dress, with an overlap at back of wrist. The overlap has a single cylindrical button of black plastic designed to appear carved with three notches in the side revealing pale green/yellow below and at ends. Manufacturer's tag inside gloves: "Kayser, 52 * Reg / Made in Germany / 6"; Stamped in lining by tag: "Kayser 52". The gloves are accompanied by the original paper care tag: "WASH / GLOVES / ON HANDS / Use almost cool / water and a pure / mild soap. We re- / commend PALM- / OLIVE BEADS. Do / not rub. After wash- / ing take gloves off / rinse thoroughly in / cold water. Pull / lengthwise wrap / and ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1930
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of ecru velvet. The domed upper section of the crown has closely shirred sides and circular upper panel. The sides of the crown are of smooth velvet, with horizontal folds and large applied velvet bow at back with slight trailing ribbons. The medium-width brim is also covered with tightly shirred velvet matching the upper sides of the crown. The underside of the brim is covered in velvet with light pleats. The inside of the crown is lined in cream silk(?). There are no designer, retailer, or maker's labels in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Headpiece

Headpiece

Date: 1930~
Creator: unknown
Description: Headpiece of chicken wire, sequins, and beads. The bandeau or tiara form has a base of curved metal fitting across the wearer's head, on top of which is a segment of chicken wire which is embellished with sequins, glittery material, beads, and one small rhinestone brooch at center.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Juliet Cap

Juliet Cap

Date: 1930
Creator: unknown
Description: Juliet-style hat of light blue felt with four teardrop-shaped appliques of iridescent sequins and faux pearls outlined in clear beads across front. Wire frame covered in light blue velour. Unlined. Retailer's Label: Volk
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skimmer

Skimmer

Date: 1930/1939
Creator: Maynor Hats
Description: Skimmer hat of straw and silk. The skimmer, or boater style hat has a low woven straw crown with flat top. Around the crown is a matching woven straw ribbon edged in brown silk, with a bow at back. The wide, flat brim is of woven straw, covered with brown silk matching the trimming of the band on the crown. The silk covering is quilted in a pattern of concentric bands with running wavy lines. The crown and underside of the brim are unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband at base of crown. Extending from the inner hatband are two panels of brown silk, forming a chin-strap with black cord knot fastener. A small "F" is stitched to inner hatband to indicate the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / Maynor Hats / New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1935/1939
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of brown felt. Hat has a high, cylindrical crown, slightly "crumpled", with an asymmetrical brown felt brim that extends out and curls upwards. Highest point of brim is at front of the hat. Round crown, above mid-point, is hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon embellished with branching forms of beading, sequins, and metal leaves. This band meets at back and has extending segments cut at angles hanging from the back of the hat. Dark brown grosgrain ribbon hatband inside crown, with thin elastic cord fastened on either side to act as chinstrap to secure hat to wearer's head. The crown of the hat is composed of two sections of felt with the band of grosgrain ribbon between them. From inside of hat the back of the ribbon and the stitching of the beading is visible. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Turban

Turban

Date: 1930?
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Modified turban of black flannel/jersey. The oval form constructed to be worn cross-wise on head, with circular fan of black feathers at right side, and radiating section of shirring at left. Unlined, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Shirred area backed with stiffened net/fabric panel. Designer's / Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc. / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche Hat

Cloche Hat

Date: 1930?
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Cloche style hat of black velour with extended right side. Extended side has 3 cutouts covered with net. Stamp on inside crown: "Dubarry / illegible" Designer's label: " Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1933
Creator: Descat, Rose
Description: Hat of royal blue velour. The crown is somewhat domed, of pieced velour, with a band of rolled dark blue satin around the base. The wide brim of matching velour is shaped to dip down and turn up slightly around the crown. The hat is unlined, with a band of dark blue grosgrain ribbon sewn in between the inner edge of the crown and the brim. Designer's label sewn inside: "Rose Descat / Paris", with a second label sewn to lower edge of designer's: "Made In France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1932/1936
Creator: James, Charles
Description: Hat of gray felt. The sculptural piece is designed with elements of both a beret and a beanie. The crown is of oval shape with upwards sweeping and twisting panels of felt which meet at a point at the top of the crown. The shape is primarily held by blocking, with a few small stitches to maintain it. The base of the crown is sewn to a band of the same felt at bottom edge, forming an in-ward curving brim. The hat is unlined, the inner edge trimmed with black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitch mark on ribbon indicates the front of the hat. A think black cord attached to the ribbon helps secure the hat to wearer's head, to be looped around the back of the head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Charles James / 15, Bruton Street, W.I."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1930~
Creator: Merilyn Hats
Description: Hat of black fur and felt. The body of the hat is of black felt, overlaid at sides with black fur. The crown is styled somewhat as a toque, with vertical sides, and a sunken top. At back, the sides "tie", forming a bow of felt edged with fur. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and with a braided elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Merilyn / Hats"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1930~
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of black wool. The crochet hat is designed as a cylinder, the top flat, the front cut back, angling down at sides and across back. At sides and back is a fringe of black beads. The hat is unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1935~
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hatlet of black feathers. Designed on a stiffened base, the hatlet forms a band across head from side to side, shaped as curled wings, overlaid with black feathers. Lined in black stiff net, with a black grosgrain inner edging. Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1935~
Creator: Emme
Description: Hatlet of navy blue felt and feathers. The low, oval, domed crown is made of spaced strips of navy blue felt arranged as concentric circles, secured to cross-strips, and with a knotwork interweaving at the back into which are secured a spray of dark blue feathers. The hat is unlined, with a dark blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Emme / Inc. / 21 East 56th Street / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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