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Hat
Hat of velvet and golden weave cloth. The domed crown is covered in a woven golden cloth shot through with metallic threads. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband of a similar fabric in the form of a dense ribbon, forming a large bow at front. Set in behind the bow is a semi-circular fan spray of fine white feathers. The wide, circular, slightly floppy brim is of black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue/black satin material. Maker's label stamped in gold on inner lining of crown: "Mme. J. Dagnet / French Millinery / 206 St. Paul St. / Dallas.
Hat
Hat of plum colored velvet. Designed as a modified cloche, the low domed crown consists of two layers, "puffed" out and shirred to create gathers and folds. Between the layers is a band of ribbon trim with purple/plum dyed ostrich plumes, which form a "fringe" around the hat. The lower "puff" acts as brim. Lined in black fabric. There are no maker's, designer's, or retailer's labels or marks in the piece.
Hat
Hat of black velvet. Designed as a modified sailor's hat, with a shallow cylindrical black velvet crown with slightly domed top. The wide, flat, black velvet-covered brim has an inner wire form, visible where velvet has been damaged. At side of crown is a spray of black/green cock feathers with a black velvet ribbon bow. The underside of the brim is covered in black velvet, while the crown is lined in black satin. There are no labels in the hat.
Hat
Hat of navy blue velvet. Cylindrical crown has slightly concave sides and somewhat domed crown that is gathered into sides in large pleats. Wide brim of matching velvet is of approximately oval shape, set somewhat off-center and with large "split" at side allowing for some overlap, and with rounded ends, one of which hangs below other when hat is worn. At split is navy blue dyed ostrich feather plume. Underside of brim is of same velvet, inside of crown lined with navy blue satin with drawstring opening at top of crown, which has inner lining of cream fabric. No designer's, maker's or retailer's labels in item.
Hat
Hat of white felt fur. The domed crown is almost totally covered by ostrich feathers, dyed pale green with violet edges. The brim turns up at ends, and supports lavish embellishments consisting of artificial flowers of various colors of velvet, more dyed ostrich feathers, and a violet silk taffeta bow. The crown and brim, under the added decorations, is covered in a fine black net/veiling, which extends under the brim and into the inside of the crown. The crown is unlined, showing the fur. Maker's paper label partially preserved, attached inside crown: "[Monogram mark RAC(?)] / New York". Label also lists style, "Anita", and price of $4.00.
Toque
Toque of black velvet. The circular crown is of black velvet, gathered at top and crafted to create wrinkles. Brim at sides and front folds up to form "visor" at front of crown, on which are artificial berries, flowers, and leaves. Hat is lined with black satin. Maker's mark stamped inside crown, partly faded/worn: Perry Hat Shoppe / Perry, NY."
Hat
Hat of gray and cream brocade and black velvet. The high, domed crown is formed of cream and gray brocade, in a stylized pattern of geometric lines and floral forms, recalling Chinese patterns. The oval brim is set off-center, turning up high at front and only slightly at back. Set on the brim are three black velvet bows. The upper side of the brim is of the brocade, while the underside is lined in black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined with a black satin. Retailer's label is sewn inside crown: "Egner / 501 Gordon & Koppel Bldg / Kansas City".
Beaded leather boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of dark brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. Embellished at toe with cut steel beads forming interlacing bands and lines. Medium height heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to center and then flaring out again at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in black leather and off-white fabric. Retailer's(?) stamp inside, partly illegible: "Famous / Paris, Tex." Hand-written notation on lining: "38-1 80364" Sold by Famous Shoe Store, Paris Texas (est. 1891). Worn by Kennie Holt Rucker in 1917-1918. Donated by Mary Helen Rucker to the Historical Collection (North Texas State University,Denton, Tex.). Transferred to the Texas Fashion Collection.
High Button Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black suede. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are embellished with subtle rows of perforations and stitching. Each boot closes along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Hand-written notation inside on lining: "270 85434"
High Button Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Stamped on lining: "350 760 / 3027 [monogram]"
Mitts
Pair of ivory cotton or silk mitts. The elbow-length fingerless gloves are of crocheted ivory material in the style of the 1860s. The long sleeves have bands of lacework patterning. The hands are fingerless, with cording between where fingers would go, and an oval opening for the thumb.
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather and velvet. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather at lower portion, and black velvet from edge of vamp to above ankle. Upper section closes with circular, slightly domed black buttons on outer edge, 11 buttons high. 1 3/4" high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and with curved front section. Logo stamped on sole, partly illegible. Embroidered label inside: "[Monogram - CT Co.?] Autograph" Stamped inside: "Our Own Make / 354 812 / Craddock Terry Co."
Boots
Pair of lady's boots of black leather. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes, slightly rounded at tips. The boots lace up along the front with 18 holes. Lined at with black fabric. Modified Louis or boulevard heels, rounded at sides and back, flaring to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Embroidered logo inside: "[Part lion/part fish symbol] / Wichert / New York"
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black velvet with domed crown and wide brim edged in black satin. Hatband of pleated black satin. Bright green ostrich feathers on left side of crown. Lined in pink fabric. Designer's label: "Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif." Retailer's label: "Yvonne / Hats / California"
Purse
Silver mesh purse with cathedral arch frame etched with scroll filigree. Ball and socket clasp. Ball finials at each corner of tri-corner bottom. Mesh band handle with slide adjustment stamped with a four petal flower. Interior of frame stamped: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis / Bags" and "Sterling"
Boy's Suit (Jacket and Pants)
Boy's suit of olive green wool tweed with gold flecks and small blue and white vertical stripes. A) Jacket. Triangular, placket front is bordered with black twill tape and has a vertical, center insert of red wool bordered with black braid. Four gilded brass buttons on each side of placket with right side closure having tailored buttonholes. 1-1/2" belt of self attaches at bottom button. Long, set-in sleeves are trimmed with two, smaller, nonfunctional matching buttons. Turn down collar closes with 2 hook & eyes. Bow tie of black silk faille. Horizontal, double welt pockets at side. Body of jacket is lined with black polished cotton and sleeves are lined in cotton fabric in stripes of light gray with thin green stripes. B) Short pants of matching tweed. Closes with a single brown button on each side of waist above pockets. Single slit pocket on the back at right. Sides of legs trimmed with 3 matching, nonfunctional buttons. Interior cotton satin waistband has 8 vertical buttonholes and is stamped: "Aletor(?) Waist Band / Patented / June 29, 1896 / 3 / Brooklyn, N. Y." Front lined in brown polished cotton.
Infant's Ensemble
Infant's ensemble of fine white persian lawn consisting of: A) Infant's dress of white batiste cotton. Full length dress gathers into square yoke with narrow, vertical rows of fine eyelet and hair pin lace. Two rows of pin tucking separated by two rows of eyelet and hair pin lace matching yoke at bottom with 2-1/2" ruffle of scalloped eyelet lace at hem. Round neckline trimmed in lace. Long sleeves with lace at hem; center back opening. B) Slip of white batiste cotton. Neckline and armholes trimmed in lace. Full length. Narrow row of pin tucks and row of eyelet and hair pin lace matching dress with matching ruffle of scalloped, eyelet at hem. Closure of mother-of-pearl buttons at shoulders. No labels in garment.
Evening Coat
Evening coat of cream/ecru wool with beige velvet accents and braided cream cord trim. Full length; center front opening with single hook & eye closure. Wide, 3/4 length dolman sleeves with velvet cuffs. Silk cord in scroll and chain pattern outlined front, sleeves and back to waist. Two inside pockets; ivory silk lining.
Infant's Dress
Infant's dress of white cotton batiste with lace surrounds. Full length with short, puffed sleeves. High waist gathers at yoke. Yoke and sleeves trimmed in lace. Yoke is constructed of cut-out pieces and is embroidered in white vine and floral design. Hem has five rows of pin tucks above a 2-1/2" ruffle trimmed in satin-stitched dots along the bottom. Center back opening with two tiny mother-of-pearl buttons; third, top button is missing. Unlined.
Child's Coat
Child's coat of off-white cotton faille with box pleats front and back; one each at shoulder and one down the middle of both back and front. Front opening to waist of four small white mother-of-pearl buttons and two snaps at neckline, covered by pleat. Sailor collar embroidered with simple flower and vine pattern and embroidered scalloped edges. Long sleeves have the same treatment for 3" cuffs. Dropped waist with belt loops (belt missing).
Child's dress
A) Infant's dress of white batiste cotton. Yoke has rounded neckline with tatted lace and floral embroidered inserts. Short puffed sleeves are trimmed in tatted lace. Skirt has insert of floral embroidered batiste between two rows of tatted lace; pin tucking above inserts and at ruffled hemline trimmed with tatted lace. Center back opening with snap closure; snaps missing. Unlined. B) Slip of white batiste cotton. Sleeveless with wide rounded neckline; bordered in tatted lace. Bodice embroidered in floral pattern with embroidered bow at the center. Gathered waist. Skirt with tucks and insert of tatted lace and tatted lace at hem. Center back closure of four mother-of-pearl buttons and button at each shoulder (buttons at shoulders missing).
Girl's Dress
Small girl's dress of fine white cotton or linen. Wide lace ruffle borders small yoke of lace and net. Short puffed sleeves trimmed with matching lace. Dress falls full from gathering under yoke ruffle with three rows of fine tucks, two rows of lace inserts and matching lace border at hem.
Wedding skirt
Chinese Wedding Skirt for a Member of the Court. Mid-calf length wrap-style skirt comprised of two panels of red brocade silk with chrysanthemum pattern attached to 2.25" waistband of green wool; panels connect with interior button of green wool and skirt is secured with ties of green wool that wrap around the waistband. Panels are unadorned where wrap overlaps and finely pleated where panel is visible. On pleated sections are long strips of dark blue silk piped and backed in light blue silk; strips are decorated with silk and metallic embroidery with floral, dragon, and geometric designs, and at the bottom each strip has a modified fleur-de-lis shape and two silk tassels, one of lavender and the other turquoise. Inset into each side section of skirt are rectangular bands of floral embroidery in silk threads on white silk cloth. The bottom of the skirt has a bands of white and blue silk with embroidery, which are also pleated where visible. Primary background cloth of skirt is red silk. Side panels are lined with turquoise silk fabric. Inside labels from Neiman Marcus and The People’s Republic of China indicate the skirt was probably bought during an Asian Fortnight in 1962 or 1969.
Skirt
Red silk cheongsam style skirt - ankle length taper off skirt fully lined with silk crepe. Hand embroidered silk design motifs - Vertical gold rickrack creates the illusion of the traditional aproned skirt popular in the Qing Dynasty. This is probably a transitional garment going from the ancient style to the more contemporary garments of the 1920's and 1930's. There is a Neiman Marcus and a People’s Republic of China label inside.
Boots
Ladies lace-up boots of brown leather. Whole vamp with lightly brogued pointed toe-cap; stacked heel. Replacement laces. Stamped on interior: "350 32439N 66"
Purse
Purse of gunmetal mesh, suitable for afternoon use. Rectangular frame, plain polished gunmetal / steel frame with ball/snap closure and matching chain of elongated links. Body of purse formed of gunmetal / steel mesh, with linked chain latticework along bottom edge, terminating in small spheres. Inside of frame is engraved "Bessie H. Brown" and "Dallas Texas 4205 Swiss Avenue" Measurements: 26 cm. from top of clasp to bottom of fringe; 19.5 cm at widest part of bag.
Evening coat
Evening jacket of ivory of Battenburg cotton lace. 3/4 sleeves; knee length. Open front with two large lace flowers and hanging tassels; black velvet ties stem from the flowers and close with two hook & eyes. Matching black velvet sewn into neck edge. Embroidered retailer's(?) label at inside back neckline: "J. Hook / Detroit / Mich."
Dinner Gown
Evening/dinner gown of ivory silk crepe decorated with lace, embroidery, and artificial flowers.
Dinner Dress
Dress of purple silk brocade and white lace bodice.
Dinner Dress
Late afternoon/dinner dress of mauve purple silk velvet with lace and beading.
Patterned waistcoat
Fancy man's tailored waistcoat of with front of narrow black silk soutache cording stitched on white base to give raised ribbed effect. Single breasted with closure for three stud buttons; studs missing. Four welt pockets. Back of black/white checked silk. Lining of men's shirting in gray on white stripe. Retailer's label on adjustable belt strap: BUDD / Madison Square West / New York
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white weave fabric. Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Elite Quality" "3055" "Montcalm / Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc. / U.S.A." "16 1/2"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white weave fabric. Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Elite Quality" "3055" "Montcalm / Geo. P. Ide & Co. Inc. / U.S.A." "16 1/2"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white fabric over card(?). Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A." "Clarion / Linocord buttonholes / 2875" "14"
Detachable collar
Man's detachable collar. Plain off-white fabric over card(?). Stamped on reverse: "Trade Ide Mark / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A." "Clarion / Linocord buttonholes" "14"
Detachable collar
Three button-hole, pointed, linen detachable collar in window pane jacquard design. Size 15 1/4. Stamped on interior: "Trade Mark / Ide Silver Collars" "Caxton / Geo. P. Ide & Co. / U.S.A" "Linocord Buttonholes / Reg. US Pat. Off. / 4506"
Embellished hat
Late day hat with wide brim of black lace on wire frame with gold thread lace around edge. Crown of faux black fur/fur felt. Trimmed at front with gold thread lace and ostrich feathers. Lined in black silk. Retailer label: Le Chapeau / Français / Sanger
Felt cowboy-style hat
Hat of light tan felt in cowboy style. Black grosgrain trim around brim and as hatband. Headband of brown leather; unlined.
Picture hat
Picture/mousquetaire style hat of violet silk over purple straw body. The low, domed crown is surrounded by a wide brim, and overlaid by two wide, dyed violet ostrich feathers. The underside of the brim the lighter colored violet woven straw body of the hat. The crown is lined in black taffeta fabric and has an attached cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Sanger Bros / Dallas and Waco / Texas"
Wedding shoes
Pair of wedding slippers of off-white/cream kid leather. Shoes have rounded toes, and three straps crossing vamp, each secured with small domed white glass buttons. Straps, vamp, and upper edges of shoes all edged with off-white silk stitching. Across vamp is small silk faille bow ornamented with white glass beads. Low 1 1/2" heel is a modified cuban or Louis heel, covered with white leather. "Volk's, Dallas, Texas" is stamped on inside. Partly illegible numbers stamped on inside. L: 24 cm W: 7 cm H: 10.5 cm Heel: 4 cm / 1.5 in.
Baby booties
Baby booties of off-white linen with 2 button tab closure; buttons of white pearl; leather soles; size 2 (on tag)
Brown moccasins
Moccasins of brown leather with pink and white beads on toe cap. Leather ties; child size (16cm), 8 stamped inside.
Formal slippers
Flats of white leather with sequins around opening and on elastic strap; white canvas inner; leather soles; leather sole 16 1/2cm (child's size)
Leather boots
Boots of black patent leather with white leather upper; white button closure; 3/8" heel. Size 4 1/2
Child's shoes
Girls one button white soft kid "Mary Jane" shoes; white satin ribbon bow on buckle; leather soles. Size 7 1/2
Leather boots
Boots of off-white leather with button up closure and 1" stacked wooden heel; canvas inner. Size for 6 year old boy (20 1/2cm long)
Linen petticoat
Fine white handkerchief linen petticoat, with outer flounce of embroidered sections joined with lace bands and ruffle. 26" waist.
Wool shoes
Slippers of bright pink wool felt with flap of diamond patterned tan and pink felt; flower accent at toe cap (one missing); leather suede soles; 16cm length.
Men's boots
Men’s button-up boots of black leather with uppers resembling spats. Lightly brogued “bulldog toes”. Low stacked heel. Stamp inside neck of boot: "535 9246 D" Manufacturer's stamp on bottom of sole: "Peters / Black Diamond / Brand"
Union suit
Ivory colored. horizontally ribbed knit. cotton, wool and rayon. Summer weight union suit. Tank-style neckline with bound edges and shoulder straps. Adjustable front neckline with cotton drawstring that ties above the left breast. Thigh-length legs with overcast serge hems. Lapped. Open crotch access. One piece construction with overcast serge seams. Label stitched inside center back. below neckline.
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