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Dinner gown with black crepe skier and white faille bodice; bodice is hand embroidered in iridescent rhinestones, sequins, silver thread, and crystal drops. b) 2" sash of bright pink satin at natural waist.

Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris

Evening cape of pale pink silk gazar; oversized, rectangular shaped with shoulder corners turned-in forming diagonal armholes.

Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa".

Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer.

Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants. The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes. The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style. Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France". The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, based on the particular way that the shibori tye-dying technique has been used on the garment.

Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris"

Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet.

Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band.

Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga.

Cloche hat of medium brown coiled and plaited fibers. The high crown is crafted of spiraling band of plaited and coiled brown yarn(?)and incorporates looped sections, with iridescent flat ribbon wrapped around elements of the band. There is a horizontal "tuck" at back of hat, and a slight "visor" effect at front. The hat is unlined. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". While in the style of a 1920's/1930's cloche, the materials, label, and construction date this piece to the 1960's.

Two piece day suit. a) Jacket of burnt orange, moss green, and burgundy wool bouclé. Round neckline. Burnt orange braid at collar, center front and hem. Cuffs trimmed in rope braid and reversed side bouclé inserts. Faux french-cuffs of silk ikat taffeta at end of sleeves. 4 buttons covered with red silk and boarded with reverse of bouclé wool. Center front extension of reversed bouclé and buttons holes in seam, not welt. Patch pockets with V-shaped detail using matching trim, lined in ikat silk. Back hem weighed down by gilt, heavy chain. Designers Label inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style Number tag on back of Designer's Label: "09603" Attached hanging tag: "Made in France" Retailer's Label in Front Right Hem: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Skirt of wool bouclé in 3/4 length. Back zipper with hook & eyes. Narrow waistband of red silk. Front panel lined in red silk. Hemmed with 2" wide orange hem lace.

Hat of black and bronze velvet. Based on a pillbox, the low, domed crown is of black velvet, with top finial of a crossed bronze velvet ribbon with trailing ribbons and a black curling feather with two long thin black feathers. The sides of the hat are composed of two horizontal bands of velvet, the upper of bronze color, the lower of black. The whole hat is overlaid by black net veiling with wide mesh. The unlined felt body has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Originals / by / Michael Terre / Southern California" Stamped inside: "Jacomet / Body made in France"

Dress of bright red wool. Sleeveless; jewel neckline; knee length. Empire waist with inserted panel, quilted and top-stitched. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Kick pleat opening at center front seam. Lined in bright orange silk. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"

Suit hat of white felt. Round crown with 2-3/4" wide brim curved upward on left side and downward on right side. One inch wide black grosgrain ribbon hat band that ties in a bow on right side. Lined in white netting with white grosgrain inner headband. Inside crown stamped: "Feutre / Fléchet"

Cocktail hat of bias cut white draped wool. Front resembles a turban and is formed by four horizontal turned under pleats with 1-1/2" band. Sides and back resemble a beret, with the back folded up and trimmed with a tie bow of self at the center. Partly lined with reinforcing at front to support pleating. Ivory grosgrain ribbon inner headband and comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head.

Cocktail hat of draped brown silk. The hat, reminiscent of a turban, is a soft crown construction, gathered into horizontal folds at front with a rhinestone set clip shaped as an "8", one "s" curve set with rectangular stones, the other with three rows of circular stones. Interior lined in brown mesh, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. At front of inner hatband is attached small comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Accompanied by a small hatpin, the head covered with same fabric.

Breton hat of light tan woven Baku straw. The high, cylindrical crown is slightly domed at top, and is encircled at the base by an off-white band of folded organza. The crown is surrounded by the wide upturned brim, which extends out and then turns up to vertical, forming a "wall" around the crown. Te side of the brim facing the crown is faced with a band of the same woven straw. The hat is unlined, with an off-white inner grosgrain ribbon hatband.

Breton hat of light turquoise/jade green fur felt. The high crown has a shallow domed top, and is encircled by the wide brim, which curves up vertically around the crown. The brim is lined/faced with the same fur felt. The hat is unlined, with matching green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and is accompanied by a hat pin, the head of which is covered in the same fur felt. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris"

Hat of draped blue silk. Hat is constructed with an under-structure of a short black jersey covered cylindrical ring over which fits a tailored blue silk scarf, fitting around ring, and draping freely off the back. Inner ring with small comb attached to front inside, to help secure to wearer's head.

Trilby hat of black velvet. Designed with a sculpted crown, more vertical at back and sloping at front and sides, with slight dome at top, the hat has a narrow brim at front angled somewhat downwards, while at sides and back the brim curves upwards sharply. Top-stitching accents running up center front of hat, along top, along back facing of brim, and along edge of brim. Underside of brim is faced in same velvet, while the crown is unlined. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.

Brown wool jersey knit hood-type hat with hanging tails.

Cossack-style hat of brown sable fur. Lined, with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Designer label sewn to headband: "Balenciaga / 10. Avenue George V. Paris"

Hat of finely woven lime green straw. Designed as a modified sailor's hat, the cylindrical crown is slightly domed at top, and encircled at the base by a narrow band of the same finely woven straw, with a bow at back. The thick brim is slightly curled up at sides, and is faced with wide band of self, and then has another band of same straw, forming concentric circles. The crown is unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband and partial band along front of off-white cotton(?) padding.

Hat of bright yellow angora wool. The large hat has a high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown, and is covered with angora wool. The hat is unlined, and the stiffened woven straw(?) mesh under-structure can be seen inside. The hat has an inner yellow grosgrain ribbon hatband.

Draped pink silk cocktail hat with center front rhinestone embellished ornament.

Hat in beret style of bluish grey fine straw with linen look; white and beige feathers as trim. Label: Paris, France: Made expressly for Bonwit Teller

Hat of natural color straw with creased crown, wide, slightly upward brim and navy grosgrain ribbon accents. (Styled very similar to a cowboy hat). Semi-coarse straw with shiny finish. Ribbon at band edge, and attached at center back underneath to look like streamers.

Small blue-gray mink rounded pill-box cocktail hat.

Evening ensemble of black organza covered in black-striped gold sequins.

Sky blue two-piece suit of raw silk. (a) Short sky blue silk jacket. Wide V-neckline with wide notched collar and lapels. 3/4 length sleeves cut in one with jacket body supplemented by two triangular shaped gussets under the arm. Lapped center front opening with one large, round, plastic, pebbly textured, light blue button and inseam (yoke seam) buttonhole supplemented by single snap and hook&eye. Fronts have bias cut yoke which cuts across bust line. Lower front pieces are also bias. Self fabric belt at waist goes through holes in front and side panel seams and ties just around the fronts, leaving back straight. Vents at hem below belt holes. Fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label stitched inside back neck below collar: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Couture label under designer's label: "41.481 (?-number illegible) Tag attached to bottom of designer's label: "Made in France" (b) Matching straight, knee length skirt gathered into a 1-1/2" folded waistband. Inseam pockets at sides lined in blue silk. Left side zipper closure supplemented by four hook&eye closures on waistband. Folded hem. Unlined. Tag on waistband: "Made in France"

Dress of black wool. Below-knee length. V neckline with trim of black chenille fringe. 3/4 sleeves with matching fringe. Center front opening from neckline to below waist, secured with tiny hidden snaps and single hook and eye at waist. Attached self belt at waist, the ends of which cross over and secure with pairs of hooks and eyes to side seams. Skirt is gathered at waistline. Hem with black chenille fringe. Bodice partly lined with sheer black organza across shoulder blades at back. Attached inner shoulder pads. At waist is wide inner boned belt that hooks at front and is shaped somewhat like a corset, to lower edge of which is attached black silk lining of skirt. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Sewn behind designer's label is tag with handwritten note: "65090"

Evening dress of black wool crepe. Empire style with cap sleeves' floor-length. Black satin ribbon trim at bust line.

Dress of beige jersey knit. a) Dress with double breasted bodice and large notched collar. Two large circular beige buttons and covered buttonhole. 3/4 length sleeves. Left side zipper under sleeve. Gathered at waist. Skirt of dress lined in beige silk. Designer's label on inside right seam under arm opening: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Maker's tag under designer's label: "67007" b) Brown suede belt 3 3/4" wide with self-covered slide buckle. c) Beige silk slip. Three snap closure with hook & eye at waist. Label inside at waist: "Made in France"

Coat of red and black wool. Full cut, double breasted with large raglass sleeves. Large patch pockets and choir boy collar, dres length. Trimmed with plastic buttons.

Evening gown of light blue textured, tufted silk fabric. Full length with open wrap around V-front revealing a straight knee length under skirt topped at waistline with a bow of self. Sleeveless with collarless, rounded neckline which dips in back. Main skirt lined in self with bodice and under skirt lined in silk.

Two-piece suit of cinnamon colored textured wool. A) Short, unfitted top of cinnamon colored knit wool. Bateau neckline with opening at left shoulder with four snaps and two hook & eyes. 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with body and supplemented by two triangular shaped gussets under the arm. A hole at center front waist allows a chocolate silk ribbon attached to the skirt to tie through in a bow. Zipper set upside-down at left side seam supplemented by two hook & eyes. Fully lined in cinnamon silk crepe. Three weights inside back hem. Designer's label stitched inside back neck: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Couture number under designer label: 74186 B) Matching semi-tailored knee length skirt with a wide waistband along the front only. Ribbon sewn onto waistband at center front. Center front opening with four hook & eyes on waistband and four snaps in skirt. Boned waist shaper of white silk faille is exposed in back. Folded hem. Fully lined in cinnamon silk.

Cocktail suit of black silk satin. a) Waist-length jacket formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. Center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style number tag beneath designer's label: "10967" b) Matching mid-length skirt of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. Three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. Skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric.

Coat of deep pink and white plaid wool. Double breasted with six circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes. Bracelet length sleeves; street length. Two front vertical single welt pockets. Half belt across back of same material with two circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes at ends. Lined in deep pink silk. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris"

Cape of gray wool crepe lined with white wool crepe.

Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA"

Day dress of black bouclé wool. Three-quarter length sleeves with 4" band at cuff. Below knee length. Rounded neckline with deep V at center front. Dress is cut from single piece of fabric which meets at front and joins at curved empire waist and seam down center front. Lined from waist down in black silk.

Evening gown of red velvet. Floor length with wide, rounded neckline with deep scoop in back and 3/4 raglan sleeves. 1/2" and 1/4" round pearl beads sewn 2" apart over entire dress. Full-length, natural waist A-line skirt with slight train. Zipper closure at center back. Unlined with bodice and sleeved interfaced in maroon silk chiffon. Designer's label at inside right side seam under arm: "EISA"

Coat for evening of black cut velvet. Short length with round neck; long sleeves; single-breasted with six black, many faceted buttons. Black silk lining with 6\" wide piece from left side seam to right side seam to make coat fit in front and flare in back. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris"

Navy blue linen tunic top and skirt with a pale pink faille day coat. (a) Day coat of pink silk faille bonded to silk pastel print. Dropped shoulder with full length, two piece sleeve set onto yoke that is raglan styled in front. Lapped center front opening with four round pink plastic buttons and bound buttonholes (top buttonhole is not functional). Facings of print side of fabric show at front neck. Two welt pockets with flaps in front lined in navy silk. Deep inverted boxpleat at center back. Folded hem. Fully lined in navy silk. (b) Semi-fitted navy blue linen tunic top. Moderately rounded neckline. Short sleeves cut in one with body supplemented by triangular shaped gusset under the arm. Key-hole opening at center front neck with single hook&eye closure. Lapped center back opening with five round navy plastic buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by five snap closures. Folded hem. Fully lined in navy silk. (c) Matching semi-tailored knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband of navy silk. Left side zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye on waistband. Folded hem. Fully lined in navy silk.

Three piece ensemble of chartreuse linen jacket and shirt dress with sash of dark coral-orange dots on lighter coral-orange. a) Jacket of chartreuse linen with banded collar. Open front. Short sleeves. Lined in chartreuse silk. Label removed. b) Dress of chartreuse linen. Sleeveless with circular plastic button at each shoulder with bound buttonhole. Natural waistline, street length. Slit pockets at left and right seams. Long, hidden zipper down center front. Skirt lined in chartreuse silk. c) Sash of dark coral silk with darker polka dots.

Jacket and dress ensemble of navy blue homespun wool tweed. a) Daytime dress. Bodice has dropped shoulders; sleeveless. Skirt has soft gathers at natural waist. Collarless, V neckline with center front opening of snaps, hook & eyes, and zipper at waistline. Slit, lined pockets hidden in gathers in waist. Waist is boned/corseted with black grosgrain. Bodice lined in navy silk organza, skirt lined in navy silk. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Haute Couture number under designer's label: "31568(?)" Tag under designer's label: "Made in France" b) Capelet of matching navy blue wool. Opens at center front with notched collar. Angled double welt pockets at left and right interior. Tags removed. Lined in navy silk.

Coat of plaid wool, black stripes on white ground. Sleeveless. Two patch pockets on front. Center front opening, no closures. Black silk lining. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Hidden behind designer's label is handwritten style number tag: "70115"

Day dress of heavy, white matelasse with matching cape. A) Cape. Collarless with no arm slits. Lined in cream colored silk. Evidence of removed label, of the "EISA" size. B) Dress. Sleeveless. Collarless with center front opening of 8 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Left and right slit pockets at seams. Lined in cream colored silk. Evidence of removed label, of the "EISA" size.

Cocktail ensemble of black wool crepe and silk faille. A) Cocktail dress of black wool crepe with black silk faille ruffled bodice. Strapless. Below-knee length. Left side zipper opening. Designer's label at center back: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Stamped couture number tag under designer label: "5366" B) Cape of matching black silk faille. Collared with tie at center front. Elbow length. C) Rectangular belt of black silk faille for dress; 2" wide. Strapless. black faille dress with wool skirt and separate short.full.gathered black silk cape.

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