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 Decade: 1900-1909
 Year: 1900
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Date: 1900/1903
Creator: unknown
Description: Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Beaded Bag

Beaded Bag

Date: 1900/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: Georgette, Mme
Description: Picture hat of black straw. The hat has a broad brim of woven black straw with an upturned outer edge which is trimmed in black velvet. The low, domed crown is also of woven black straw, with a band of black ostrich feathers around the base of the crown. One large ostrich feather plume attached to base of crown and extends out and over the back of the brim. Inside crown is black cloth lining. Sewn inside crown is black cloth label: "Mme Georgette / 11 Rue Scribe / Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1900/1950
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding fan. Thin polished wood or bamboo guards lacquered a dark mahogany. The thin sticks are dyed purple. Paper leaf with hand-painted abstract design of flowers and foliage on a reddish ground. Metal bail. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels or marks. Gift of Mrs. Arthur Kramer, Sr., from the original Dallas Musuem of Fashion collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mourning Fan

Mourning Fan

Date: 1900/1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1900~
Creator: unknown
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: Wichert Shoe (New York, New York)
Description: Pair of lady's shoes of black kid leather and broadcloth. The "high button shoes" have black leather toe boxes with pointed toes and black leather sections at heels which extend from heel up the back of the shoe. The uppers are of black wool broadcloth. Shoes secure at outside edges with 12 circular, slightly domed black buttons. Upper edges lined with black leather, the rest lined with white cloth. The medium-height heel is rounded at sides and back, and squared-off at front. Although not technically a "stacked" heel, the layers can be seen. Maker's label sewn into lining at top: "Wichert / Shoe / Trade Mark / New York U.S.A." Retailer's gilt stamp on inside edge: "Norton's / Gainesville, Tex." Handwritten notation inside boot, just below upper edge: "36-1 36752 / 330".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots of black leather and wool broadcloth. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips. The lower part, including vamp, are of black leather. The upper part is of black wool broadcloth edged at scalloped top with black leather, and with black leather accent band running from heel partly up the back of the boot. The boots lace up along the front with 20 holes. Lined at top with reddish/orange fabric, the body of the shoe lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Stamped notation inside: "3 1/2 B R251"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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