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 Country: United States
 State: Texas
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble - Coat, Tunic, and Pants

Ensemble - Coat, Tunic, and Pants

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1960
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1941/1945
Creator: Forstmann
Description: Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels. There are three labels in the coat: Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co." Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas" Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening dress of off-white / beige silk. Mid-length chemise-style, with 1" standing collar and long sleeves. Heavily beaded floral patterns at cuffs of sleeves and along a band 3 1/2" up from hem. Beadwork includes pearls, clear bugle beads, rhinestones, gold sequins, and small clear beads. Zipper closure along center back. Dress is lined in white silk crepe.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Coat and Dress

Ensemble - Coat and Dress

Date: 1960/1970
Creator: unknown
Description: Ensemble consisting of a coat and dress. The mid-length coat is of knit with a printed pattern of blue geometric shapes on a bright red ground, and has long sleeves and moderate collar with rounded points. Center-front opening with 4 square dark blue plastic buttons. Across back of coat is an attached belt of the same fabric, with buttons at each side, but does not extend around to the front. Fully lined in dark blue fabric. The mid-length dress is of the same fabric, and has short sleeves, a rounded neckline, and flares slightly to hem. The dress has a center-back zipper closure and is lined in the same fabric as the coat. Coat has a single retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" inside back at collar. Dress has slightly smaller version of same label, sewn inside at left of zipper near neckline.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit

Suit

Date: 1946
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert, 1903-1959
Description: Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1930/1939
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of green suede pumps. Vamp of shoe with 5 bands of green satin ribbon running across the vamp and throat. The throat has V-cut sections on either side, with crossing bands of suede where the V intersects the ribbon. Lined in cream/grey kid leather. 2 1/2" high modified continental heels, covered in green suede. Stamped inside right shoe: " 'Charmant' / Fashions / A. Harris & Co. Dallas". Noted inside both shoes: "38 - 0 14465"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1980
Creator: McFadden, Mary
Description: Dress of off-white silk. Ankle-length dress with V neckline at front and back with piped edge and with long, lightly puffed sleeves supported by small pads. Hem and sleeves with fine rolled hems. At front is a wide, dropped, cross-over band at waist which repeats at back, the back forming a yoke into which the skirt gathers. Lapped zipper closure on left side. The entire garment has pleating inspired by the designs of Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo,(May 11, 1871–May 3, 1949) Acquired by the donor at the Fort Worth, Texas, branch of Neiman Marcus.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1940
Creator: unknown
Description: Coat of black wool and chinchilla fur. The full-length black wool coat is tailored to fit at waist and flares out at skirt. Long sleeves, and center front opening with 8 circular buttons covered with same black cloth, and 3 hook-and-loops spaced along the opening. The coat has a Peter Pan collar of brown and taupe striped fur identified as chinchilla. From the hips down to the hem is trimmed with matching fur, arranged so the stripes run horizontally around the skirt of the coat. The coat is fully lined in black cloth. Single retailer's label at inside back of collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Shoes

Evening Shoes

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Vaccari
Description: Pair of red satin evening shoes. The deep red shoes have pointed toes and 3 1/2" stiletto heels which are lacquered red with tiny white dots and embellished all-over with rhinestones. Marked on sole: "6 / 1/2 / B / 05" and "Made in Italy". Label inside right shoe: "Vaccari / Italy Bologna". Stamped inside left shoe: "Made in Italy for / Neiman Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Purse

Purse

Date: 1910/1915
Creator: unknown
Description: Purse / Handbag for afternoon use. Rectangular plain polished gunmetal / steel frame with ball/snap closure and matching chain of elongated links. Body of purse formed of gunmetal / steel mesh, with linked chain latticework along bottom edge, terminating in small spheres. Purse of gunmetal mesh, suitable for afternoon use. Inside of frame is engraved "Bessie H. Brown" and "Dallas Texas 4205 Swiss Avenue"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Miss Mary (New York, New York)
Description: Hat of natural-colored straw. The somewhat domed crown worked to appear "squashed", bulging in some areas and turned-in in others. At base of crown is band of cream grosgrain ribbon with bow at front. The brim is off-center, turned under, extending further at front and curving more broadly under at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner red grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Miss Mary / New York"; Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" Belonged to Mrs. Leo F. Corrigan, the mother of Mrs. Edwin B. Jordan, the donor of this piece.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Henry's (Dallas, Texas)
Description: Small picture hat of straw. The fine, natural color straw crown is domed, and encircled by a band of beige grosgrain ribbon at its base. The ribbon has a bow at the front. The wide, oval brim is set off-center to the crown, and is edged with the same beige grosgrain ribbon. The brim has two "V" cuts into it at front, forming projecting "saw teeth". At the base of each "V" cut, on top and underneath brim, is a bow of the same grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, and there is an inner hatband of beige grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1950/1955
Creator: Henry's (Dallas, Texas)
Description: Picture hat. The domed crown is of navy blue twill, with a navy blue grosgrain ribbon band tied at base of crown, with bow at back with trailing ribbons. At front of crown is a second bow of stylized foliate form, created out of stiffened rolled twill or grosgrain, with two red straw cylindrical "buds" extending upwards. The wide, down-turned brim is of red straw. Inside crown is navy blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is label: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1960
Creator: Henry's (Dallas, Texas)
Description: Picture hat of straw. The domed crown is of natural-colored straw, ringed at the base with a line of artificial daisies with white petals and yellow centers, affixed to a band of off-white grosgrain ribbon. The broad oval straw brim is set off-center, and edged underneath with a double line of daisies around most of the brim, and a single line of daisies at back. The crown is edged inside with an inner hatband of white grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Henry's (Dallas, Texas)
Description: Small straw picture hat. Low domed crown of a dark/purple woven straw. Wide, down-turned brim of same material starts high on the crown, and is edged in black velvet. At the back of the hat, starting at top of brim, is an applied spray of artificial daisies and leaves in green fabric, with black velvet bow. Unlined. Inside, at base of crown, is brown/purple grosgrain ribbon headband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas" Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. Gift of Mr. Ian Dellar.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Henry's (Dallas, Texas)
Description: Small picture hat of black straw. The domed black straw crown is edged in black velvet ribbon and is surmounted by a "starburst" of pleated black grosgrain fabric with a vertically projecting "tab" of grosgrain ribbon backed with black velvet. The matching straw brim is circular along the front 2/3 of the hat, and then "cut back" along the back 1/2, forming two slight corners at sides. The brim is edged in black velvet ribbon. The crown has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. Accompanied by a single short hatpin with simulated black pearl head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of pale purple or violet felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed pale purple felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The lower form has a horizontal "tuck" near the base, enhancing the impression of the hat being stacked felt domes. On right side of the crown near base is an applied bow of the same felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Stamped inside the crown: "Premier / Finest Quality / Imported / Velour" Joint Designer's and Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus". Retains original Neiman-Marcus paper tag. Obverse: "Neiman-Marcus / B830 / x8SINZ / 7529x / 2995"; Reverse: "15 00" With matching hatpin, the head covered with a small pad of the same felt as the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Emme Inc. (New York, New York)
Description: Hat of light-colored straw. Domed crown is surmounted by small sphere of woven straw, and is canted back slightly. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of two layers of white grosgrain ribbon which have extending ends at side. The "snap brim" is slanted downwards at front, but turned up at sides and back. The hat is lined in a fine golden/yellow mesh, and has an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband at base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Emme Inc / New York" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Amen Wardy / El Paso - Texas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1950
Creator: Neiman Marcus Co.
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1953
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of white straw with red velvet and net trim. The domed crown of the hat is formed of three sections of white straw, two hemispheres overlapping a central band running front to back. Around the base of the crown is a wide red velvet ribbon with bow and trailing ends at back. Over the ribbon and brim is a fine red netting/veiling with scattered tiny white "blossoms" affixed to the netting/veiling. The flat, narrow brim turns under at the edge to create a double-thick edge. The inside of the crown has an off-white grosgrain inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of beige felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed beige felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The outer crown is "cut open" and "peeled back", to reveal the crown below. The lower edge of the crown is rolled up and in to create the appearance of a narrow rolled brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark beige grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" Supplier's mark stamped inside crown: "Riviera / Finest Quality / Velour / Made in Italy"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design