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 Country: United States
 State: Texas
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt, Blouse and Scarf
Ensemble of teal silk Ottoman. The suit consists of a jacket and skirt, blouse, and scarf. The jacket is of horizontally ribbed teal silk, banded on the bias, has a rounded neckline, is long sleeved, and has princess seaming for a tailored fit. The sleeves have soft pleating at the shoulders, and there are 3 circular gold buttons set with rhinestones at each cuff. There is a center front closure with 4 large buttons matching the style of sleeve buttons and one hidden snap at top. The buttonholes are hidden in the seam of the opening. The jacket is lined in black silk. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back of neck: "Richard Brooks". The matching skirt is of the same silk Ottoman, below-knee length, with soft pleats at front and darts at back from waistband down 5 1/2". Small slit at center back from hem upwards. The sides are cut on straight vertical stripe. The waistband has hook and two eyes, and there is a center back zipper closure. The skirt is lined in teal silk. There are no labels in the skirt. The blouse is of a thin teal green and metallic gold jacquard, woven with an ornate all-over paisley pattern. There is a banded collar and slight pleating/gathering on front at yoke, and at top of the long sleeves. Center back zipper closure extends from collar almost to hem, and has two hook-and-eyes at collar. The blouse has attached shoulder pads. There is no label in the blouse. An accompanying scarf is of iridescent teal silk chiffon, edged with the same jacquard materials the blouse is made from. There is no label on the scarf. Designed for Texas Governor Ann Richards. The silk is from Abraham Fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30305/
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirts and Blouse
Ensemble of rose silk. The suit consists of a jacket, two skirts and a blouse. The jacket is made from a 1930's sari of pale pink silk embroidered with gold and silver threads, beads, and pink sequins in designs of vines, flowers and abstract line patterns. Jacket has a floating yoke and full leg-o-mutton sleeves with long narrow cuffs that have zipper closures. The jacket itself has a center front opening with no closure. The neckline, edges of closure, hem, and cuffs are edged in heavily beaded bands added by the designer. Designer's label sewn inside back at neck: "Richard Brooks". The blouse is of heavy pink silk, collarless, with round neckline. It is short-sleeved, with pleating at the shoulder. Vertical seaming on front and back for structure. There is a concealed center-back closure with snap at top and 5 clear plastic circular buttons down the length. The blouse is lined in a dark, dusty pink silk and has sewn-in shoulder pads. Designer's label is sewn inside back to the left of the opening: "Richard Brooks". The two skirts are are both of identical pink silk, matching the blouse, of identical construction. One is knee-length, and the other is full-length. Both are lined in the same pink silk as the jacket. The short skirt has designer's label sewn in at waistband: "Richard Brooks". Worn by Governor Ann Richards when she spoke at the Gridiron Club in Washington, 1992. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30304/
Dress
Dress of multi-colored velvets. The floor-length dress has an empire waist and bell-shaped long sleeves. The upper, bodice, section is made of a sheer, multi-colored fabric woven with bands of gold thread. Over the bodice is applied sections of burnout velvet in various colors, forming bands running up the bodice, over the shoulders, and down the back, another band forming a 1" high collar, and as 2" bands around each wrist. The sections are bordered in gold cording. The lower, skirt, section is of green velvet printed in browns, greens, and gold in an abstract geometric/organic design. Fully lined in green silk(?). Center back zipper from neckline to just above waist. Three hook-and-loop closures on collar. Designer label sewn alongside zipper at shoulder-blade height at right: "Ronald Amey / New York". Evidence of removed label at inside, center front of dress below neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30306/
Jumpsuit
Jumpsuit of pink, yellow, green and blue horizontal striped paper. The full-length rayon fiber remay paper pantsuit has olive green, pink, blue and tan stripes. Bodice is sleeveless, empire style, with with high rounded neckline and narrow spread collar, with stripes going horizontally. There is a center back zipper closure from the neck to hip-level. Pants are full-length, wide legged palazzo pants with vertical stripes. The pant legs are slit from the hem to mid-calf, and are unhemmed. The piece is lined in a white rayon fiber paper cloth. Retailer's label at inside left beneath the collar: "Change-In-Time / Boutique / Dallas, Texas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30035/
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble consisting of a coat and dress. The mid-length coat is of knit with a printed pattern of blue geometric shapes on a bright red ground, and has long sleeves and moderate collar with rounded points. Center-front opening with 4 square dark blue plastic buttons. Across back of coat is an attached belt of the same fabric, with buttons at each side, but does not extend around to the front. Fully lined in dark blue fabric. The mid-length dress is of the same fabric, and has short sleeves, a rounded neckline, and flares slightly to hem. The dress has a center-back zipper closure and is lined in the same fabric as the coat. Coat has a single retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" inside back at collar. Dress has slightly smaller version of same label, sewn inside at left of zipper near neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30209/
Dress
Dress of printed cotton. The floor-length dress is of cotton with a printed geometric design of a lattice of black rectangles on white background. It is sleeveless, with black spaghetti straps. There is a wide black "belt" of "quilted" cotton just below the bust, with a bow in front. The dress has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures at top. It is fully lined in thin white fabric. The designer's label is sewn inside bodice: "Clifton / Wilhite / Dallas"; a second label is sewn just below designer's label: "Lot 6464 Size 14" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30236/
Purse
Purse / Handbag for afternoon use. Rectangular plain polished gunmetal / steel frame with ball/snap closure and matching chain of elongated links. Body of purse formed of gunmetal / steel mesh, with linked chain latticework along bottom edge, terminating in small spheres. Purse of gunmetal mesh, suitable for afternoon use. Inside of frame is engraved "Bessie H. Brown" and "Dallas Texas 4205 Swiss Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30074/
Coat
Coat of black wool and chinchilla fur. The full-length black wool coat is tailored to fit at waist and flares out at skirt. Long sleeves, and center front opening with 8 circular buttons covered with same black cloth, and 3 hook-and-loops spaced along the opening. The coat has a Peter Pan collar of brown and taupe striped fur identified as chinchilla. From the hips down to the hem is trimmed with matching fur, arranged so the stripes run horizontally around the skirt of the coat. The coat is fully lined in black cloth. Single retailer's label at inside back of collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30101/
Pumps
Pair of green suede pumps. Vamp of shoe with 5 bands of green satin ribbon running across the vamp and throat. The throat has V-cut sections on either side, with crossing bands of suede where the V intersects the ribbon. Lined in cream/grey kid leather. 2 1/2" high modified continental heels, covered in green suede. Stamped inside right shoe: " 'Charmant' / Fashions / A. Harris & Co. Dallas". Noted inside both shoes: "38 - 0 14465" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30091/
Suit
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30093/
Cloche
Cloche-type hat of blue-green velvet. An early example of the cloche hat, it has a narrow up-turned brim. All around the crown is floral decoration carried out in beading, applique, and embroidery. Also with thin lines of gold thread sewn throughout. The edges of the brim are similarly decorated. Remains of silk lining. Original cataloging indicates the had had a Sanger Bros., Dallas, price tag inside marked $35, on sale for $30. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30068/
Suit
Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels. There are three labels in the coat: Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co." Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas" Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30048/
Evening Shoes
Pair of red satin evening shoes. The deep red shoes have pointed toes and 3 1/2" stiletto heels which are lacquered red with tiny white dots and embellished all-over with rhinestones. Marked on sole: "6 / 1/2 / B / 05" and "Made in Italy". Label inside right shoe: "Vaccari / Italy Bologna". Stamped inside left shoe: "Made in Italy for / Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30215/
Evening Gown
Evening dress of off-white / beige silk. Mid-length chemise-style, with 1" standing collar and long sleeves. Heavily beaded floral patterns at cuffs of sleeves and along a band 3 1/2" up from hem. Beadwork includes pearls, clear bugle beads, rhinestones, gold sequins, and small clear beads. Zipper closure along center back. Dress is lined in white silk crepe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30212/
Dress
Dress of off-white silk. Ankle-length dress with V neckline at front and back with piped edge and with long, lightly puffed sleeves supported by small pads. Hem and sleeves with fine rolled hems. At front is a wide, dropped, cross-over band at waist which repeats at back, the back forming a yoke into which the skirt gathers. Lapped zipper closure on left side. The entire garment has pleating inspired by the designs of Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo,(May 11, 1871–May 3, 1949) Acquired by the donor at the Fort Worth, Texas, branch of Neiman Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30311/
Dress
Dress of printed silk with beads and sequins. Short dress of black silk is printed with a paisley design in yellow, red, and cream. The background is covered in heavy black beading and black sequins. The dress has a short standing collar and long set-in sleeves. There is a center back zipper from collar to hips. Fully lined in black fabric. Label of Dallas retailer inside back near collar on left side: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30316/
Ensemble - Coat and Skirt
Ensemble. Coat and matching skirt (not shown) of woven upholstery-weight fabric with stylized floral and geometric designs in burgundy and blue/black on a creme ground. Coat is mid-length, flaring slightly to hem, with long sleeves and a center-front opening. The opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a curly "lamb's wool" died burgundy to match the pattern. Fully lined in burgundy silk(?) With separate sash/belt. Labels in coat: Designer's label "Anne Klein" with lion logo; Dallas, Texas retailer's label "Marie Leavell". Not shown is skirt in matching fabric, mid-length, with no trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30196/
Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts
Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt. First image shows: a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell". b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York". c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". The second image shows: a) Vest, described above. b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30187/
Ensemble
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30045/
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of black wool jersey knit. The late-day dress is of mid-length, with bateau (boat) neckline and short sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye at neckline. The fitted torso has a natural waistline with a fitted yoke from natural waist to full hip. Pleated/gathered skirt of black tissue faille begins below yoke and flares to hem. Around the waist is an attached wide faille sash which ties in front forming a bow with trailing ribbons. The bodice of the dress is lined in black and the skirt has a heavy fabric underskirt and two attached layers of net crinoline. Joint designer's and retailer's label sewn inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30054/
Ensemble
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30050/
Skirt Suit
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30019/
Calotte
Hat of beige felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed beige felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The outer crown is "cut open" and "peeled back", to reveal the crown below. The lower edge of the crown is rolled up and in to create the appearance of a narrow rolled brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark beige grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" Supplier's mark stamped inside crown: "Riviera / Finest Quality / Velour / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38112/
Calotte
Hat of pale purple or violet felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed pale purple felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The lower form has a horizontal "tuck" near the base, enhancing the impression of the hat being stacked felt domes. On right side of the crown near base is an applied bow of the same felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Stamped inside the crown: "Premier / Finest Quality / Imported / Velour" Joint Designer's and Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus". Retains original Neiman-Marcus paper tag. Obverse: "Neiman-Marcus / B830 / x8SINZ / 7529x / 2995"; Reverse: "15 00" With matching hatpin, the head covered with a small pad of the same felt as the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38111/
Hat
Hat of natural-colored straw. The somewhat domed crown worked to appear "squashed", bulging in some areas and turned-in in others. At base of crown is band of cream grosgrain ribbon with bow at front. The brim is off-center, turned under, extending further at front and curving more broadly under at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner red grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Miss Mary / New York"; Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" Belonged to Mrs. Leo F. Corrigan, the mother of Mrs. Edwin B. Jordan, the donor of this piece. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38117/
Hat
Hat of light-colored straw. Domed crown is surmounted by small sphere of woven straw, and is canted back slightly. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of two layers of white grosgrain ribbon which have extending ends at side. The "snap brim" is slanted downwards at front, but turned up at sides and back. The hat is lined in a fine golden/yellow mesh, and has an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband at base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Emme Inc / New York" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Amen Warde / El Paso - Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38116/
Hat
Hat of white straw with red velvet and net trim. The domed crown of the hat is formed of three sections of white straw, two hemispheres overlapping a central band running front to back. Around the base of the crown is a wide red velvet ribbon with bow and trailing ends at back. Over the ribbon and brim is a fine red netting/veiling with scattered tiny white "blossoms" affixed to the netting/veiling. The flat, narrow brim turns under at the edge to create a double-thick edge. The inside of the crown has an off-white grosgrain inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38059/
Picture Hat
Small picture hat of straw. The fine, natural color straw crown is domed, and encircled by a band of beige grosgrain ribbon at its base. The ribbon has a bow at the front. The wide, oval brim is set off-center to the crown, and is edged with the same beige grosgrain ribbon. The brim has two "V" cuts into it at front, forming projecting "saw teeth". At the base of each "V" cut, on top and underneath brim, is a bow of the same grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, and there is an inner hatband of beige grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38121/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of straw. The domed crown is of natural-colored straw, ringed at the base with a line of artificial daisies with white petals and yellow centers, affixed to a band of off-white grosgrain ribbon. The broad oval straw brim is set off-center, and edged underneath with a double line of daisies around most of the brim, and a single line of daisies at back. The crown is edged inside with an inner hatband of white grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38128/
Picture Hat
Small straw picture hat. Low domed crown of a dark/purple woven straw. Wide, down-turned brim of same material starts high on the crown, and is edged in black velvet. At the back of the hat, starting at top of brim, is an applied spray of artificial daisies and leaves in green fabric, with black velvet bow. Unlined. Inside, at base of crown, is brown/purple grosgrain ribbon headband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas" Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. Gift of Mr. Ian Dellar. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38124/
Picture Hat
Small picture hat of black straw. The domed black straw crown is edged in black velvet ribbon and is surmounted by a "starburst" of pleated black grosgrain fabric with a vertically projecting "tab" of grosgrain ribbon backed with black velvet. The matching straw brim is circular along the front 2/3 of the hat, and then "cut back" along the back 1/2, forming two slight corners at sides. The brim is edged in black velvet ribbon. The crown has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. Accompanied by a single short hatpin with simulated black pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38123/
Picture Hat
Picture hat. The domed crown is of navy blue twill, with a navy blue grosgrain ribbon band tied at base of crown, with bow at back with trailing ribbons. At front of crown is a second bow of stylized foliate form, created out of stiffened rolled twill or grosgrain, with two red straw cylindrical "buds" extending upwards. The wide, down-turned brim is of red straw. Inside crown is navy blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is label: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38120/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38037/
Shoes
Pair of woman's shoes of black leather and black suede. The black leather toe sections of the shoes are designed with gently rounded points. The back part of the shoes, and the single strap across the instep, are of black suede. Each of the straps secure with two circular iridescent black buttons. Shoes are lined in tan cloth inside toes, black leather insoles, and black fabric inside heels. Soles of black and tan leather. Medium heel of modified French style, with rounded sides and back, and slightly curving inner side. Stamped in gilt on insole: "Bench / Volk's / Made". Hand-written notation inside shoes: "6C / 18638 / 29" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39002/
Shoes
Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with geometric and stylized foliate designs in crystal beads. The shoes secure across instep with single ribbon tie on each, creating a "peep" just above toes. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Heel is of medium height, rounded at back and tapering slightly to base. Similar to what would become a Cuban heel. Maker's code stamped inside: "35-C 3021" Worn by Norma Tiemann at her marriage to Val L. Lehmann in Brenham, Texas in 1907. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39004/
Hat
Hat of lavender horsehair overlaid with lace and velvet. The daytime hat has a high, domed crown of braided/woven horsehair. Around the sides of the crown is a band of pale lavender velvet overlaid with a band of dark blue velvet, which itself is partly overlaid by pale blue lace. Around the back of the crown is a band of pale blue velvet, a section of which is also at the base of the crown at the front of the hat. The brim is of the same horsehair, and stitched up in back to create the effect of having the brim extend around sides and front, but not the back. The brim is overlaid with lace as the crown. At left side of hat, along base of crown, is a small embellishment consisting of two tubular beads and three circular beads set with rhinestones. The hat is lined in blue satin. Retailer's(?) paper label attached inside crown at back: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas - Texas", with original price of $20.00. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39151/
Hat
Hat of velvet and golden weave cloth. The domed crown is covered in a woven golden cloth shot through with metallic threads. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband of a similar fabric in the form of a dense ribbon, forming a large bow at front. Set in behind the bow is a semi-circular fan spray of fine white feathers. The wide, circular, slightly floppy brim is of black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue/black satin material. Maker's label stamped in gold on inner lining of crown: "Mme. J. Dagnet / French Millinery / 206 St. Paul St. / Dallas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39153/
Toque
Toque hat of gray felt. The high, cylindrical crown of gray felt flares very slightly to the flat top, which is cut on a slant, and is higher at front than back. The top panel is inset, forming a "ridge" of the top edge. The lower edge is also on a slant, with inner band of same felt extending slightly below the crown. The inner band is cut to form a pointed arch at front. No brim. The hat is unlined, but has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co. / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39212/
Calotte
Hat of purple felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat consists of a domed crown of purple felt, which extends down on the right side. Tied horizontally around the front of the crown is a wide band of purple taffeta, which passes through slits on the sides of the crown, and emerges towards the back of the right side, tied to become a large "pouf". The hat is lined in purple satin. Maker's label sewn into lining of hat: "Edna Mye / Dallas". The hat is accompanied by two short hatpins, the heads covered with purple felt that matches the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39184/
Calotte
Calotte of brown straw. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a teardrop shaped crown of dark brown straw, with the "point" of the teardrop extending down the right side of the wearer's head. The edge of the crown is trimmed with two bands of grosgrain ribbon, cream and brown, which have been tightly pleated and arranged to simulate a herringbone pattern. At the right side the ribbons form two simulated plumes. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. A small cream stitch on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin, the head of which is covered with dark brown grosgrain ribbon matching that of the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39189/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. Formed as Juliet cap, the hatlet has a crown of black velvet formed as a stiff low dome with shaped edge creating triangular points at front, back, and each side. At each side of the crown is an applied matching velvet bow with trailing ends. The hat is overlaid with black netting, with small black plastic circles worked into the veil's mesh. The hat is lined in blue cloth, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39183/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of dark brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. Embellished at toe with cut steel beads forming interlacing bands and lines. Medium height heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to center and then flaring out again at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in black leather and off-white fabric. Retailer's(?) stamp inside, partly illegible: "Famous / Paris, Tex." Hand-written notation on lining: "38-1 80364" Sold by Famous Shoe Store, Paris Texas (est. 1891). Worn by Kennie Holt Rucker in 1917-1918. Donated by Mary Helen Rucker to the Historical Collection (North Texas State University,Denton, Tex.). Transferred to the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39025/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of white kidskin leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Embellished at top with band of small holes along edge of boot. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" and "28D 23949" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39024/
Wedding Shoes
Wedding shoes of off-white leather. The shoes have pointed toes, and a "Mary-Jane" style strap across the instep which secures with a domed opalescent button. At throat of each shoe is a rectangular ornamental buckle covered with matching leather. The medium-high heel tapers slightly to the base and is covered with matching leather on the rounded sides and back; it has the same natural brown colored leather on the heel's curved inside and on the soles of the shoes. Retail's label stamped inside one shoe: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas Texas" Stamped inside both shoes on leather upper: "36-2 68082" The shoes are accompanied by a shoe bag of tan colored raw silk with a Japanese character style embroidery motif of blue silk worked in satin stitch. Worn by Jessie Knapp Nunnally of San Angelo, TX, at her wedding in 1902. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39029/
Hat
Hat of pink straw. The open crown is of woven pink straw, as is the wide oval brim. At the front of the hat is a cluster of artificial flowers in pink velvet and green fabric. The hat is unlined, with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown - one band pink, the other of cream. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" Accompanied by a single short hatpin with a tan straw woven head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39162/
Hat
Hat of multi-colored straw. Based on a beret, the hat consists of a crown of finely woven straw in bands of dark blue, red, white, and dark blue. The crown is formed as a flattened sphere, surmounted by a small sphere of dark blue velvet. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Brand label sewn to inner hatband: "Lee Bury / Hats". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39169/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. Styled similarly to a fedora, the hat has a high cylindrical crown with the top of the crown sunken in slightly. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at side. The medium-width brim slants down slightly at front, and turns up slightly at back. Hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Norma's / Creations / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39166/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled as a tricorne, the crown is of black felt, flattened at top. The wide brim is set off-center to the crown, with more of the brim at sides and front than back. The brim is curled up and in at sides and back, forming a triangular shape, with point at the front. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon along inside bottom edge of crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Jacqueline / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39081/
Cloche
Hat of cotton batik. Styled as a cloche-form turban, the domed crown is constructed of gathered/pleated and wrapped cotton fabric with batik design in beige/brown and blue on white ground. There is no brim. The hat is lined in cream satin, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39089/
Cloche
Cloche of black velour. The domed crown is of "crumpled" black velour encircled at the base by a band of silver ribbon. The narrow brim is curled up at the edge and sides, and is lined with a multicolored brocade with metallic threads as accents. On right side of hat, near base of crown, is a large pompom of black feathers. Set near the pompom is a pin of black composition/plastic and silvered metal in the form of a hook (partly missing?). The crown of the hat is lined with greyish silk embroidered in gold. Maker's and Retailer's label embroidered inside crown: "Paris New York / Jaccard / Hats / Made expressly for / Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Paper label stapled to lining: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas, - Texas / 226-1 / 10-26 / $35.00 / 30.00" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39124/
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