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 Country: United States
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Year: 1955
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of beige felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed beige felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The outer crown is "cut open" and "peeled back", to reveal the crown below. The lower edge of the crown is rolled up and in to create the appearance of a narrow rolled brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark beige grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" Supplier's mark stamped inside crown: "Riviera / Finest Quality / Velour / Made in Italy"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Stone, Irene
Description: Calotte of pink velvet and feathers. The hatlet is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") created of a curved oval/slightly teardrop-shape of layered/draped and folded pink velvet, set across head so that point is at center of right side and curve is at center of left side. The crown is overlaid with a cascade of pink feathers which runs from just above center of left side, across hat, and falling down on right side, with feather ends curling in and under. The hat is lined with pink mesh, and has an inner hatband running around the inside edge of the crown. Affixed to inner hatband at left side is small plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon". Accompanied by short hatpin with simulated pearl mounted on head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Irene
Description: Hat of gray felt, burgundy velour, and black sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), formed of a base of stiffened gray felt, overlaid with a layer of burgundy velour. The domed crown extends further down on right side than left, curling out at rim. The crown is covered in black sequins, with an edge of the velour showing slightly at front and back, more at right side. The hat is unlined, with inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. A small stitch in the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene / New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Calotte style hat of navy blue straw. Straw is patterned to look like flattened bow ends; brimless. Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Betmar
Description: Calotte style hat of black velvet. Small, quilted brim folds up in front and back. One, long tie string of same drapes across front brim and down sides. Black grosgrain ribbon inside hatband. Lined in black fabric. Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Betmar / Adj." Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Lord & Taylor / young new yorkers' / hat shop / Fifth Avenue"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Chapeaux
Description: Calotte style hat of light brown satin. Brim is trimmed in brown and yellow velvet strawberry clusters with green and brown velvet leaves. Lined in rose colored brocade of floral design. Inner headband of pink grosgrain ribbon trimmed with cinnamon colored lace embellished with pink embroidered flower with rhinestone center at front. Maker's label on inside headband: "Paris / Chapeaux / Chicago"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte style hat of stiffened black woven fabric. One black velvet bow in the back and alternating black woven and black velvet "half bows" around edge of crown. Black veil in front. Retailer's label on inside crown: "The Fair / Fort Worth"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte style hat of black velvet with black pleated satin coil wrapping around brim of hat. Two vertical bands of rhinestones embellish left and right front of hat. Retailer's label on inside headband: "The Fair / Fort Worth"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955?
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Calotte style hat covered in dark green/black feathers, overlaid with floral appliques of black beading. Lined in black satin, edged with a thin band of dark jersey material and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label inside: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending almost from edge to edge across inside of crown.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Belasco, Martin
Description: Calotte of dark brown silk faille. Three touching bows of same around sides and front of crown with V point in back. Lined in net with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte of brown satin with 2 V-shaped temple clips. Clips and rim trimmed with 4 rows of bronze beading. Lined in brown netting. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955?
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte style hat of black velour covered with black beads and sequins. Crown in a sculpted, swirled pattern. Black mesh veil. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cap

Cap

Date: 1955~
Creator: unknown
Description: Cap of dark navy blue velvet. Designed with a domed crown which slopes out to front to form a visor/brim, and extends down slightly further in back than front. Lined in dark blue satin, and with an inner hatband of dark blue velvet. Retailer's stamp on hatband, partly illegible: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas " Size label: "ADJ."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cap

Cap

Date: 1955~
Creator: Christine
Description: Cap of black velvet and feathers. Styled somewhat as a "newsboy cap", or a pillbox with a brim, the cylindrical black velvet crown bulges slightly at sides. At front, extending slightly to sides, is black visor of same velvet, angled downwards, edged with black grosgrain ribbon. The visor is covered with fan sprays of multicolored small feathers in browns, tans, and creams, with black edging. Centered with a black grosgrain ribbon bow. Crown is lined in multicolored brocade fabric with scrolling foliate and floral forms. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label at inside hatband: "Christine / Original" Received in a period hatbox labeled "Levy's".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cape Coat

Cape Coat

Date: 1955
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cape coat of heavy rust mohair. Rounded collar. Center front opening with 5 large, round, marbled brown plastic buttons reinforced with hook & bar. Machine stitched button holes. Street length. Slit pockets at side seams. Lined in rust colored silk satin fabric. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche Hat

Cloche Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: unknown
Description: Cloche style hat of rust colored fur felt. Black velvet trim with self-covered button on left side of crown. Lower edge of inside crown trimmed with black velvet. Unlined with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "The Halle Bros. Co." Inside crown stamped: "Musketeer / Imported Body / Made in Austria" Size tag on inside hatband: "22"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat Dress

Coat Dress

Date: 1955~
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Coat dress of black silk taffeta jacquard-woven with supplemental pile design in the weft. Black buttons down front. Flaring skirt. A) Coat dress of black silk taffeta with off-white fuzzy woven-in polka dots. Calf-length(? - depends on petticoats), with a small modified "Peter Pan" turn-down collar, which has attached front bias bands to tie into bow at front of collar. 3/4-length set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 16 black circular plastic buttons, hidden snaps at waist and throat, and hook-and-eye at waist. Full, flaring skirt with 13 gores. Unlined. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of matching fabric, backed with black leather. Narrow, with rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. Stamped on reverse: "30+"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1955/1960
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress of black silk faille and white lawn with black embroidered scallops. Wide boat neckline, short sleeves, natural waistline, princess seaming. Heavy black faille overskirt pleated into waist, cut higher at front to show underskirt of white lawn. Underskirt has horizontal bands of triple lines of scallops, scalloped lower edge of underskirt. Built in hoop understructure with petersham belt and four steel (?) internal hoops. Overlay with petticoat of white cotton with wide horsehair band at hem. Center back zipper.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Copeland, Jo
Description: Cocktail dress of red rose and green leaf print cotton. Princess style with flaring full skirt. Sleeveless; bodice with scoop neckline and low cut V in back. Knee length. Bodice draped with flower appliques of same fabric. Center back zipper. Lined in white organdy. Designer's label at seam: "Patullo-Jo Copeland" Retailer's label to right of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying petticoat of nylon, nylon net and outer flounce of white organdy with red rose appliques.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1955
Creator: Bayh, Frederick Gibson
Description: Cocktail dress of large plaid orange, green, purple, and red raw and china silk. The dress is sleeveless, ankle-length, with red/orange raw silk halter-top bodice, "shawl" of same which is attached at mid-back and drapes over shoulders and across front. Lined in pale green. Skirt of dress is of silk, with large, plaid squares of reds, oranges, greens, and purples. Attached cummerbund style belt which buttons in back with 5 self-covered buttons and loops. Center back zipper Lined in light gold organza. Combined designer's/retailer's label at left side seam of lining near hem: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original" Accompanying petticoat formed of three full-length layers of red, purple, and green silk. Each layer with hem band of grosgrain ribbon in a different color, and each with deep net ruffle at hem, also edged with grosgrain ribbon. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes on 1" waistband. Combined designer's/retailer's label at center back waistband: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Cocktail dress of orange silk chiffon with scoop neckline and short, raglan sleeves with gathers and underarm gussets. Neckline and center top sleeves embellished with matching silk satin ribbon. Ribbon bow at center front hides zipper closure. Skirt of multilayer chiffon creates a full A-line. Knee-length; natural waist. Designer's label at right waistline: "Galanos" Retailer's label to right of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying contour belt of leather and silk. Thin belt is covered in orange satin to match dress.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1955
Creator: Parnis, Mollie
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1955/1964
Creator: Parnis, Mollie
Description: Day dress of printed cotton, brown on white, with black "spots" in a very tiny geometric pattern. Just below knee length. Double collar and cuffs with white cotton(?) button-in, detachable panels. Short sleeves, pleated into hems. V-neckline below collar, which has lower placket opening with three circular black buttons and bound buttonholes, and one hook-and-loop at waist, inner petersham with hooks and eyes, and series of 4 hidden snaps at center front of skirt. Natural waist, into which bodice and skirt are pleated. Full skirt. Lined in ivory organza/organdy. Designer's label at inside left seam of skirt: "Mollie Parnis / New York" Union label near designer's label. Size label at inside of skirt opening: "Size 10" With accompanying belt of black patent leather; 2" wide with square buckle.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Day dress of gray and yellow windowpane plaid cotton. Street length with short sleeves. Short collar. Faux placket runs down the center front of the bodice with bow at top and line of 5 non-functional white buttons. Full skirt is pleated and gathers at natural waist. At each side, slightly behind hip, are two slit pockets with side "flaps". Center back zipper closure, and grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook-and-eye closure. Unlined. Designer's label inside at left side seam: "Galanos / Originals / Beverly Hills" Retailer's label inside skirt at front: "Neiman-Marcus".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design