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 Country: United States
 State: New York
 State: Texas
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Victor, Sally
Description: Calotte of black straw and black velvet. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a low, domed black velvet crown overlaid with a "pinwheel" made of large woven black straw triangles. At top of crown is a maroon velvet cord knot. Hat is lined in dark blue, with a dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Sally V / Designed by Sally Victor" Retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of pale purple or violet felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed pale purple felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The lower form has a horizontal "tuck" near the base, enhancing the impression of the hat being stacked felt domes. On right side of the crown near base is an applied bow of the same felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Stamped inside the crown: "Premier / Finest Quality / Imported / Velour" Joint Designer's and Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus". Retains original Neiman-Marcus paper tag. Obverse: "Neiman-Marcus / B830 / x8SINZ / 7529x / 2995"; Reverse: "15 00" With matching hatpin, the head covered with a small pad of the same felt as the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of green felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed green felt crown, and a brim that folds up around the crown, extending almost as high as the crown in front. At the base of the crown, within the area of the brim, is a gather of brown veiling/netting that runs about 3/4 of the circumference of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband at the inside base of the crown. A stitched mark on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's / Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" Stamped inside crown: "Made in Italy"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of beige felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed beige felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The outer crown is "cut open" and "peeled back", to reveal the crown below. The lower edge of the crown is rolled up and in to create the appearance of a narrow rolled brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark beige grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" Supplier's mark stamped inside crown: "Riviera / Finest Quality / Velour / Made in Italy"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Stone, Irene
Description: Calotte of pink velvet and feathers. The hatlet is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") created of a curved oval/slightly teardrop-shape of layered/draped and folded pink velvet, set across head so that point is at center of right side and curve is at center of left side. The crown is overlaid with a cascade of pink feathers which runs from just above center of left side, across hat, and falling down on right side, with feather ends curling in and under. The hat is lined with pink mesh, and has an inner hatband running around the inside edge of the crown. Affixed to inner hatband at left side is small plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon". Accompanied by short hatpin with simulated pearl mounted on head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Irene
Description: Hat of gray felt, burgundy velour, and black sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), formed of a base of stiffened gray felt, overlaid with a layer of burgundy velour. The domed crown extends further down on right side than left, curling out at rim. The crown is covered in black sequins, with an edge of the velour showing slightly at front and back, more at right side. The hat is unlined, with inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. A small stitch in the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Irene / New York". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Belasco, Martin
Description: Calotte of dark brown silk faille. Three touching bows of same around sides and front of crown with V point in back. Lined in net with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cape Coat

Cape Coat

Date: 1955
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cape coat of heavy rust mohair. Rounded collar. Center front opening with 5 large, round, marbled brown plastic buttons reinforced with hook & bar. Machine stitched button holes. Street length. Slit pockets at side seams. Lined in rust colored silk satin fabric. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cape Dress

Cape Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Dress of heavy beige wool tweed in the form of a modified cape. A) Dress inspired by Norell's capes. Mid-length, with rounded, jewel neckline. Slit openings for arms. Two large patch pockets at front. Center back closure with 5 large circular self-covered buttons, bound buttonholes, and two hidden snaps at collar. Opening stops 14" from lower hem. Lined with beige silk crepe. B) Slip of beige silk crepe. Mid-length. Wide shoulder straps with square neckline. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn inside at back near hem, above split: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1958
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Coat of black, purple and white shepherd's check wool. Single breasted with 3 large, circular plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Bias cut collar with 2" stand at center back. Front and back yokes. Long sleeve with matching, single buttoned cuff with bound buttonhole. Two patch pockets. Lined in black silk. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat Dress

Coat Dress

Date: 1955~
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Coat dress of black silk taffeta jacquard-woven with supplemental pile design in the weft. Black buttons down front. Flaring skirt. A) Coat dress of black silk taffeta with off-white fuzzy woven-in polka dots. Calf-length(? - depends on petticoats), with a small modified "Peter Pan" turn-down collar, which has attached front bias bands to tie into bow at front of collar. 3/4-length set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 16 black circular plastic buttons, hidden snaps at waist and throat, and hook-and-eye at waist. Full, flaring skirt with 13 gores. Unlined. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of matching fabric, backed with black leather. Narrow, with rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. Stamped on reverse: "30+"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress with black, cotton knit bodice and full, chocolate brown silk faille skirt. Bodice has long sleeves with zippered wrists. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye. Stand up, mandarin collar. Bodice forms V at center front, gathered waist. Lined in black organdy with built in petticoats of black tulle. Six inch wide black grosgrain petersham at inner waist with 5 large hook & eyes. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam of skirt towards hem: "Norman Norell for Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1953
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress of black faille and white linen with jacket and belt. A) Bolero style jacket in black silk faille. Center front opening with four small black circular buttons and bound buttonholes. Short, set-in sleeves trimmed with three matching buttons on tops of sleeves with bound buttonholes. Small welt pockets at sides. Jacket and sleeves lined in white silk satin. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Dress of black silk faille. Set-in waistline with upper bodice of white linen. Linen bodice is sleeveless and has center front opening with five white circular plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Banded collar extends to form bow tie ends. Mid-calf length skirt is full and formed by 10 panels. Left side zipper under arm hole. Black grosgrain ribbon petersham at natural waist with single hook & eye closure. Set-in waist section supported by metal boning. Lined in black silk in lower portion of skirt. Entire skirt section lined in heather brown woolen fabric to stiffen skirt. C) Narrow belt covered in black silk faille. Rectangular self covered buckle.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1955/1960
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress of black silk faille and white lawn with black embroidered scallops. Wide boat neckline, short sleeves, natural waistline, princess seaming. Heavy black faille overskirt pleated into waist, cut higher at front to show underskirt of white lawn. Underskirt has horizontal bands of triple lines of scallops, scalloped lower edge of underskirt. Built in hoop understructure with petersham belt and four steel (?) internal hoops. Overlay with petticoat of white cotton with wide horsehair band at hem. Center back zipper.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Cocktail dress of yellow and orange silk chiffon. Fitted bodice of horizontal, loosely pleated yellow chiffon has two orange, horizontal stripes at waist and above. Double, spaghetti style shoulder straps. Inner support with boning and petersham. Skirt is composed of under layers coral pink and yellow silk and outer layers of orange and yellow chiffon, creating a full appearance. Mid-length; zip-back and hook & eye closure. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1954
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress of black wool jersey knit. The late-day dress is of mid-length, with bateau (boat) neckline and short sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye at neckline. The fitted torso has a natural waistline with a fitted yoke from natural waist to full hip. Pleated/gathered skirt of black tissue faille begins below yoke and flares to hem. Around the waist is an attached wide faille sash which ties in front forming a bow with trailing ribbons. The bodice of the dress is lined in black and the skirt has a heavy fabric underskirt and two attached layers of net crinoline. Joint designer's and retailer's label sewn inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1954~
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail / late day dress of black silk faille. Shallow scooped neckline, short "kimono" style sleeves with wide turn-backs. Bodice seamed, and with dropped waist. Full, mid-length skirt gathers into waist. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at collar. Inner petticoat under skirt composed of two layers, inner plain black fabric layer and outer stiffened horsehair layer. Designer's label sewn inside skirt, outside of petticoat layer: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1959
Creator: Saint Laurent, Yves
Description: Cocktail dress of beige wool crepe with faux black Astrakhan. The below-knee-length dress has a slight cowl neckline and bloused effect on the bodice and short sleeves. The full skirt is cartridge pleated into a wide band of black wool faux Astrakhan at slightly dropped waist. Dress has center back zipper on lining, connecting to outside of dress at waistline; blouse portion closes at center back with 8 covered snaps and 3 hook-and-eyes on neckline. Lined in cream organdy. Designer's label at center back seam: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc." Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Union label on side of seam opposite retailer's label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Copeland, Jo
Description: Cocktail dress of red rose and green leaf print cotton. Princess style with flaring full skirt. Sleeveless; bodice with scoop neckline and low cut V in back. Knee length. Bodice draped with flower appliques of same fabric. Center back zipper. Lined in white organdy. Designer's label at seam: "Patullo-Jo Copeland" Retailer's label to right of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying petticoat of nylon, nylon net and outer flounce of white organdy with red rose appliques.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1950
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Cocktail dress of dark navy blue silk satin. Strapless with fitted bodice. Open pleats over bust with mock bow and attached 14'' wide stole lined with silk organza which drapes over right shoulder and down back. Straight skirt with small inverted pleats at each hip bone, 23 1/2'' long from waist. Center back 24'' zipper closing with hook and eye at top and waist line. French netting, boned bustier with black grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye closure on inside. Skirt is lined to hip front and back with navy taffeta. Designer's label at center front bottom of bustier: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York, Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Hat

Cocktail Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Stone, Irene
Description: Hat of beaded, printed silk. The cocktail hat is of silk printed in an abstract foliage design in greens, reds, purples, yellows, white, and brown. It is heavily beaded, with small pale green square beads, oblong dark green beads, oblong and circular white beads, and tan flat sequins. All beads appear to be wooden. The crown is formed as an irregular dome, and has no brim. The hat is lined in gold cloth, and has two small plastic combs attached to either side of the inside of the crown to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1957
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Day dress of blue gray and navy herringbone silk. A) Day dress of blue gray and navy herringbone silk. Shift style. Mid-length with rounded, Peter Pan collar. Bracelet length, dolman sleeves. Center front opening extending from neckline to hips, with 3 self-covered buttons above waist and a zipper with hook & eye. Two large patch pockets at hips. Unlined. Combined retailer/designer label at left side seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell B) Tie/scarf of same fabric. One end wider than other, finishing in triangles. Narrow at center.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Day dress in beige pesanté silk. Bias band collar extending into tubular tie with open hemmed ends. Tie graduates for 1/2 inch at center back collar to 4-1/4 inch at ends. Three 1 inch self-covered round buttons at bodice front. Piped button holes and 13 inch hidden zipper below. Bracelet length dolman sleeves. Back yoke. Street length. Two 8-1/2 inch x 8 inch hip patch pockets. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: a) Day dress of gray silk douppoini. Straight silhouette that falls loose in back. Elbow length set-in sleeves. Jewel neckline with placket that runs around neckline and down center front opening with 4 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented with a snap at the neckline. Street length. Back lined in gray silk. b) Slide belt of white crushed leather with oval buckle covered in self. Belt fits into slits at side seams of dress so that back hangs loose and is belted across front.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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