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 Country: United States
 State: Texas
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1946/1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of black velvet styled as a cloche. Domed crown with some seaming and "wrinkles" has very small brim of same fabric, with black velvet bow at back as trim. Lined in cream fabric. Retailer's label inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime coat of camel brown/tan wool. Street-length or longer, with rounded shawl collar. Double breasted with 6 large circular black silk faille-covered buttons in two vertical rows of 3 each; bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two small circular black plastic buttons inside. Two slit. Double welt pockets at sides. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs showing black silk faille lining. The coat is lined in black silk, with wide bands of black silk faille at cuffs, collar, and sides of opening. Combined retailer's and designer's label at inside back neck: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1940
Creator: unknown
Description: Coat of black wool and chinchilla fur. The full-length black wool coat is tailored to fit at waist and flares out at skirt. Long sleeves, and center front opening with 8 circular buttons covered with same black cloth, and 3 hook-and-loops spaced along the opening. The coat has a Peter Pan collar of brown and taupe striped fur identified as chinchilla. From the hips down to the hem is trimmed with matching fur, arranged so the stripes run horizontally around the skirt of the coat. The coat is fully lined in black cloth. Single retailer's label at inside back of collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1944
Creator: Adrian
Description: Coat of purple wool. Below-knee-length, collarless, and with long sleeves. Center front opening with three large, self covered buttons. Two patch pockets trimmed with one matching button each and framed in 3/4 inch inserts. Lined in purple silk crepe. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Adrian / Original" With matching covered belt with functioning belt buckle. Leather reverse with three punched holes. Stamped "1756 - 14"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat Dress

Coat Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket. Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original" Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949" Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas" Belt of matching navy leather. Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: A) Cocktail dress of blue silk satin. Sleeveless with spaghetti straps of same. Set-in waist which scallops at bottom hem and attaches to panels of full skirt. Tea length. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in black tulle. Combined retailer/designer label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same with rectangular, self covered buckle. 1/2 inch wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble

Cocktail Ensemble

Date: 1944
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail ensemble consisting of: A) Blouse of fuchsia wool jersey with long sleeves, banded neckline with placket down the center back, and 5 self-covered circular buttons. B) Skirt of black silk brocade, Dirndl style, below knee length, with center back opening having a zipper and 2 hook&eyes on waistband. Unlined. C) Belt of matching black silk brocade with matching fuchsia wool jersey on reverse. Square self-covered buckle. 2" wide. The blouse and belt with no labels or stamps. The skirt with combined Designer/Retailer label at side seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Cocktail Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Date: 1949
Creator: Leibert, Dorine
Description: Cocktail ensemble of mauve damask satin with woven pattern of small flowers consisting of: A) Bodice/top. Sleeveless, with 1" shoulder straps and 3" fold around neckline. Left side zipper opening from bottom to almost neckline. Unlined. B) Skirt, of matching fabric with scattered groups of "smoked"? sequins. Floor length, A-line, with wide, 3" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined. Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: Autumn 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Day dress of brown silk damask in fine diamond pattern. The dress is in wrap-around style, with asymmetric neckline with wide, shawl collar on the left. Street length. Opening buttons on bodice at left with 4 circular, brown buttons and bound buttonholes, hook & eye at natural waist and two snaps where skirt attaches to peplum. Peplum is asymmetric and longer on left. Long dolman sleeves with underarm gussets and folded back cuffs. With matching belt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Daytime Dress

Daytime Dress

Date: 1944
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime dress in modified shirtwaist/sheath style of black jersey wool. Sleeveless with padded shoulders and wide, notched collar. Street length. Center front opening with 6 large, clear, modified emerald cut rhinestone buttons and bound buttonholes. One-inch wide self fabric tie belt attached at sides. Small patch pockets at sides, below waist. Unlined. Combined retailer/designer's label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Derby Hat

Derby Hat

Date: 1948
Creator: Louise Inc.
Description: Hat in derby style of navy felt. Edge of crown trimmed in wide bands of navy, gray and red yarn with very narrow gold thread knots tied to tasseled ends of yarn bands. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker/retailer's label: "A / Neiman / Marcus / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dinner Dress

Dinner Dress

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Brown print silk dress with belt and umbrella. A) Full-length silk dress printed with brown/white/black over-all pattern of large leaves or pinecones on stems. Wide, shallow neckline. Side zipper. Sleeveless, with sleeves edged with cut-out leaf shapes from the print. Hem with same treatment. A-line skirt. Unlined. Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same fabric, backed in cream leather, with rectangular, fabric-covered buckle. C) Umbrella. Not pictured.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: David Crystal
Description: Dress of brown puckered nylon. Street length with A-lined skirt. Fitted bodice. Spread collar and 3/4 length sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Two patch pockets at upper bust, with false flaps. Center front opening with 5 circular cast brass buttons and hidden hook & eye at natural waist. Slit pockets at hips. Unlined. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Sports Shop" With matching narrow belt faced in same fabric, backed in brown leather. Rectangular self-covered buckle. Stamped on reverse: "10 1820"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1948
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of: A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels. B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk. Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie" National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Date: 1946
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Ensemble of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. A) Dress of blue heathered wool herringbone knit with bodice of black jersey knit. Short sleeves. 1 1/2" wide mandarin collar. Center back zipper closure with self-covered button and buttonhole on collar at back. Skirt is street length with slight A-line. Unlined skirt. No labels in dress. B) Fitted jacket of of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. Long sleeves with cuffs of black Persian lamb. V-neckline trimmed in black Persian lamb. Left side closure with two circular black metal buttons at shoulder and four matching button on left side seam. Lined in black silk crepe. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline of jacket: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1948/1952
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening dress of champagne peau de soie. Princess style. Sweetheart neckline in front, with small horizontal pleats at front left and right princess seaming at upper part of bust; back neckline is low and rounded. 1-1/2 inch wide shoulder straps that split in front to form an inverted Y, with horizontal band of same fabric at dividing point. Natural waist. Skirt is below knee length, at at hips has three almost horizontal bias folds which extend to from hip center back and join to form bow; lower sash ends of the bow attach to skirt to form "bustle drape", giving added fullness. Attached net petticoat gathered to taffeta yoke; back zipper. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: Autumn 1944
Creator: Copeland, Jo
Description: Evening dress of wine-colored hammered rayon satin. Wide, bateau neckline trimmed with wine colored ostrich feathers, sequins and bows of matching fabric. Short sleeves. Street length. Ruching at center front of bodice and at center back seam below waist. Left side zipper. Unlined; shoulder pads. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" With matching tie belt, 1 1/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1940
Creator: Rentner, Maurice
Description: Evening dress of rose/pale pink/pale mauve crepe-back satin charmeuse. Inspired by Chinese Cheongsam-style garments, the dress is full-length, slim fitted, with slight standing collar fastened with hidden hook & loop. Sleeveless, the dress has front opening from throat to slightly below right shoulder, secured with three large rhinestone set circular brass(?) buttons. Very slightly raised waist with triangular "flap", open and hanging down from center front to right hip. From just below hip to center front at hem is secondary opening, with 7 buttons matching bodice. Hem slightly scalloped at front overlap corners, and at right side. Left side underarm zipper. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside bodice: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Maurice Rentner" With tie belt of same fabric, 3/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Halo Hat

Halo Hat

Date: [1940..1945]
Creator: unknown
Description: Pamela or halo style hat of natural colored straw cloth. Crown ringed with brown silk organza roses. Edge of brim covered with natural colored grosgrain. One hatpin with black, teardrop shaped head. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Henrys / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Cahn, Bernie A.
Description: Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk. Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940
Creator: Lydia
Description: Hat of cream and gray striped fabric. Low, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At back of crown is band of vertically pleated band of same fabric, which extends to edge of brim. Narrow asymmetrical brim, wider in front. At back of brim is cream bow of thick velvet "string" with trailing ends. Underside of brim lined in cream velvet which extends up to edge the brim. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Lydia / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940
Creator: Gladys & Belle
Description: Beret style hat of navy and white woven straw. Ribbon flower hangs off side of hat with small flag of orange grosgrain ribbon on top of stem. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon with extension at back of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York" Retailer's label at inside headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design