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 Country: United States
 State: New York
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Boater

Boater

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Marché Hats
Description: Boater-style hat of off-white straw. The whole hat is of straw woven into shell-shaped segments, connected to form the body of the hat. The cylindrical crown has a flat top, and is encircled at the base by a black velvet ribbon. At either side of the crown are large black velvet bows. The flat, oval brim follows the outline of the crown, and is partly overlaid by a fine black mesh veil with long, trailing ends that are long enough to tie under the wearer's chin. The underside of the brim is edged in black velvet, and there is a black velvet strap which extends down from either side to help secure hat to wearer's head. The hat is lined with a fine white mesh, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Labels sewn into inner hatband: "Marché Hats / Paris New York"; Also sewn into inner hatband is second label, "Consumers' Protection Label / 784619". Hand-written on velvet chinstrap: "59389"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte style hat of black velvet with black net veil in front. Lined in green fabric. Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Debutante"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1947
Creator: Chandra, Michael Roy
Description: Calotte style of off white felt with two bands that over-cross twice. Narrow upturned brim. Crown is covered in brown net which goes under hat bands to become veil in front. Hatpins with triangular heads of matching felt attach veil to hat. Spray of brown coque feathers as trim on right. Red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Hatpin with white pearl head attached to designer's label on inside hatband. Unlined. Stamp on inside crown illegible. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Chandra"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: [1940..1949]
Creator: Northridge, Inc.
Description: Calotte style hat of light purple felt in teardrop shape. Decorated in bunches of purple and magenta felt grapes with leaves of green felt. Rose colored tie bow at back. Hat covered in purple net with chenille balls. Black grosgrain headband. Manufacture's label on inside headband: "Northridge Inc. / 1 W. 57th St. / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1948
Creator: Mr. John
Description: Calotte style hat in muted pink velvet. Crown has narrow 1" down-turned brim, trimmed with velvet flowers and pink ostrich feathers. Netting of same color as trim. One large, clear rhinestone on side of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: [1940..1945]
Creator: Victor, Sally
Description: Calotte style hat of gold lamé fabric. Hat could also be called a modified turban. Upturned brim with large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones as trim. Same trim of large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones on right side of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" Designer's label on inside headband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1948
Creator: Irene of New York
Description: Calotte style hat of deep rose colored velvet. Double upturned brim with one velvet flower on left front. One large hatpin with head of large and small pearls separated by a band of rhinestones. Coordinating front veil. Lined in gold metallic fabric with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Label on inside crown: "Irene / of New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cartwheel Hat

Cartwheel Hat

Date: 1944
Creator: Paine, Edward
Description: Cartwheel hat of black velvet with small, flat crown. Wide brim is covered with black feathers radiating from crown. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Edward Paine / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cartwheel Hat

Cartwheel Hat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Victor, Sally
Description: Black cartwheel hat. The low, domed crown and wide circular brim are made of black woven horsehair and stiff veiling, with wire to stiffen the edges. The brim is overlaid with a wider second brim of net and wire. Brim is off-center, wider at front of hat than back. Around base of crown is a band of black cording, tied into a bow at back and with trailing ends. The inside base of the crown is lined with black grosgrain ribbon. One pin with black head is with hat to secure it. Label sewn into inner band: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." A second label with handwritten number "1655" is sewn in near designer's label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cartwheel Hat

Cartwheel Hat

Date: 1945?
Creator: unknown
Description: Cartwheel hat of natural colored straw. Brim is wider in front than on back. Trimmed with hatband of wide, black grosgrain ribbon that forms bow in back. Edge of brim trimmed in black grosgrain. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label number 852534 to left of retailer's label on inside hatband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche Hat

Cloche Hat

Date: [1940..1945]
Creator: Milgrim, Sally
Description: Cloche style hat in taupe felt. Slightly flared brim. Trimmed at front with red feather bird. Green and black coque feathers drape from front over back of hat. Beige colored veil on front. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Milgrim"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime coat of camel brown/tan wool. Street-length or longer, with rounded shawl collar. Double breasted with 6 large circular black silk faille-covered buttons in two vertical rows of 3 each; bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two small circular black plastic buttons inside. Two slit. Double welt pockets at sides. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs showing black silk faille lining. The coat is lined in black silk, with wide bands of black silk faille at cuffs, collar, and sides of opening. Combined retailer's and designer's label at inside back neck: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat Dress

Coat Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket. Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original" Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949" Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas" Belt of matching navy leather. Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: A) Cocktail dress of blue silk satin. Sleeveless with spaghetti straps of same. Set-in waist which scallops at bottom hem and attaches to panels of full skirt. Tea length. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in black tulle. Combined retailer/designer label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same with rectangular, self covered buckle. 1/2 inch wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble

Cocktail Ensemble

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail ensemble of heavy black silk faille, consisting of: A) Dress. Long dress, sleeveless, narrow straps, rounded neckline, higher in front. Slightly raised waist. Left side zipper. Very full skirt gathered into waist. Designer's label at inside skirt side seam: "Traina-Norell / New York" B) Jacket. Waist length jacket with rounded collar, short, highly puffed "pumpkin" sleeves which gather into shoulders. Center front opening with four black covered buttons. Flares from waist. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Traina-Norell / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble

Cocktail Ensemble

Date: 1944
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail ensemble consisting of: A) Blouse of fuchsia wool jersey with long sleeves, banded neckline with placket down the center back, and 5 self-covered circular buttons. B) Skirt of black silk brocade, Dirndl style, below knee length, with center back opening having a zipper and 2 hook&eyes on waistband. Unlined. C) Belt of matching black silk brocade with matching fuchsia wool jersey on reverse. Square self-covered buckle. 2" wide. The blouse and belt with no labels or stamps. The skirt with combined Designer/Retailer label at side seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined. Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Daytime Dress

Daytime Dress

Date: 1944
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime dress in modified shirtwaist/sheath style of black jersey wool. Sleeveless with padded shoulders and wide, notched collar. Street length. Center front opening with 6 large, clear, modified emerald cut rhinestone buttons and bound buttonholes. One-inch wide self fabric tie belt attached at sides. Small patch pockets at sides, below waist. Unlined. Combined retailer/designer's label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dinner Dress

Dinner Dress

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Brown print silk dress with belt and umbrella. A) Full-length silk dress printed with brown/white/black over-all pattern of large leaves or pinecones on stems. Wide, shallow neckline. Side zipper. Sleeveless, with sleeves edged with cut-out leaf shapes from the print. Hem with same treatment. A-line skirt. Unlined. Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same fabric, backed in cream leather, with rectangular, fabric-covered buckle. C) Umbrella. Not pictured.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1948
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of: A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels. B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk. Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie" National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Date: 1946
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Ensemble of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. A) Dress of blue heathered wool herringbone knit with bodice of black jersey knit. Short sleeves. 1 1/2" wide mandarin collar. Center back zipper closure with self-covered button and buttonhole on collar at back. Skirt is street length with slight A-line. Unlined skirt. No labels in dress. B) Fitted jacket of of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. Long sleeves with cuffs of black Persian lamb. V-neckline trimmed in black Persian lamb. Left side closure with two circular black metal buttons at shoulder and four matching button on left side seam. Lined in black silk crepe. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline of jacket: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: Autumn 1944
Creator: Copeland, Jo
Description: Evening dress of wine-colored hammered rayon satin. Wide, bateau neckline trimmed with wine colored ostrich feathers, sequins and bows of matching fabric. Short sleeves. Street length. Ruching at center front of bodice and at center back seam below waist. Left side zipper. Unlined; shoulder pads. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" With matching tie belt, 1 1/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1948/1951
Creator: James, Charles
Description: Evening gown of bright brown satin and black velvet. Form fitted bodice of brown satin narrows at waist and dips to a center front seam, where fabric is gathered and drapes down to full-length skirt; black velvet skirt surrounds CF fabric and creates a fullness at hips. Handwritten cloth tape label in skirt: "Charles James 47" Accompanied by a brassier, not shown in photo. Designer's Label: "This is an original / Madame Adrienne / 35 other pat. pend. / pat. 3072879"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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